Powell Trip Report Rome and France

Jul 18th, 2005, 01:09 PM
  #1  
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Powell Trip Report Rome and France

(A brief report on our trip to Rome was posted under Italy - July 15.)

We planned to leave Rome for Marseilles on an AF affiliate, CCM airlines (Corsican Airlines)at 12:15 p.m. Bad move. Flight cancelled after three hour wait in Rome. We then had to fly back to Rome for a 9:20 p.m. flight to Marseilles. Luckily our baggage made it and reliable Europcar was still open. We lost nine hours. Avoid CCM and its ancient prop jet craft.

St. Remy was great though hot. Unlike 2003 it resumed cooling off in the evening. Among things we did:

-Attended two outdoor markets.
-Took part with "Le Respiledo", Provencal traditional group's, celebration of summer solstice.
-Took TGV to Lyon for a day trip.Ate quenelles for the first time-a food of the gods. Unbelievable dumpling that morphs in to an almost souffle. Lyon is a pretty city-we had only time for Lyon Vieux. Will visit again.
-Lavender and oleander were in full bloom due to the heat.

We then returned to Paris. Dined again at wonderful "Le Pamphlet". Tried another restaurant "Dome du Marais"--very good. We stayed at Caron de Beaumarchais in Marais.

-We took a day trip to Chartres. Beautiful cathedral. Very difficult to buy RR ticket at Gare Montparnasse. Slow lines, poor signing. Leave yourself time.

-Visited Musee Canodo near Parc Monceau. Beautiful mansion; decorative art, etc.

-And, there is some justice--after the Rome- Marseilles fiasco we were upgraded at CDG for our trip home to JFK. I do not know if it was compensatory but it was greatly appreciated--8 hours of champagne, foie gras,leg room.

I wrote the head of AF complimenting him on the courtesy of the AF crews and land teams. They made our travails as easy as possible.

Anthony
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Jul 18th, 2005, 01:23 PM
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Welcome back, Anthony you had a wonderful trip. Tell me about the Caron as it's on my list .
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Jul 18th, 2005, 01:37 PM
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ira
 
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>8 hours of champagne, foie gras,leg room.

Well, all was not lost, P.

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Jul 18th, 2005, 01:39 PM
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Anthony, do you mind sharing where you had lunch in Lyon? I'm making my first foray into that city for three days in August and I adore quenelles!
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Jul 18th, 2005, 01:44 PM
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Hello Mimi,

Caron is on the Rue Vielle du Temple, in the Marais,not far from the bridge leading to the Ile St. Louis. We have stayed here 8 or 9 times.

Rooms are small but stylish--exposed beams; antique coverings; replicas of Beaumarchais writings.

Robes are provided. Breakfast available in room or in basement room, We were on street side but air conditioner blunted any street noise-which wee never have had a problem with. Lot of nice shops, patisseries in area. Near Metro "Hotel de Ville".

Owners, the Bigeards, pere et fils, are most accommodating-- son Alain recommended both restaurants I noted. Also sent us to the Canodo, Cernewschi.
Musees.

Hotel ran 152e per night. A real value in my opinion.

Hope you are well and about to travel.

Best wishes.

Anthony
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Jul 18th, 2005, 01:56 PM
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Hi, St. Cirq,

We dined at a bouchon called Trois Marie, in Old Lyon, about a ten minute walk from the Napoleon Bridge--cross it from Bellecour and walk right. We raved about the quenelles so much that the chef came out and spoke with us.

Incidentally, our waiter looked just like John Ashcroft!We dined outdoors. It was hot but "Ashcroft" kindly moved the umbrella to accommodate us.

Take the funicular (5 minutes from the restaurant) up to Fouvrieres (sp?)--great panorama of the city; nice church at the pinnacle.

Have a great trip!

Anthony
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Jul 18th, 2005, 02:08 PM
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Thanks, Anthony, but I wonder if I could stomach even those heavenly quenelles if I had to look at John Ashcroft's face!

We'll probably give it a try anyway and hope that it's John's day off

Anyway, I'm really looking forward to getting to know a new French city, especially one with such a fine reputation for food.
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Jul 19th, 2005, 07:08 AM
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Le Pamphlet in the Marais is one of our favorite restaurants. I can almost taste the aubergine beignets now!
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Jul 19th, 2005, 07:18 AM
  #9  
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To KT Tomlinson:

In the last two years we have been in Paris eight evenings; we have dined in Le Pamphlet four times.

To other Fodorites reservations a must here.

Anthony
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Jul 20th, 2005, 06:36 AM
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Anthony -- it's nice to see that someone else enjoys Le Pamphlet as much as we do. Aside from the wonderful food, it's a special place for us, as my husband proposed to me on Pont Neuf right after we had dinner there (perhaps too mellow from the good food and wine?????)!
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Jul 21st, 2005, 09:52 AM
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To KT Tomlinson:

You read so many postings of people inquiring about Tour D'Argent, The Jules Verne. It seems so much more interesting to go to good neighborhood restaurant in Paris like "Le Pamphlet"; "Mariage Freres".

To each his own, of course, but we are in our 60's and find Le Panmphlet a gem. If we were not already married I might have done the same thing your husband did after we first dined in Le Pamphlet!
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Jul 27th, 2005, 08:56 AM
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Anthony -- We definitely think alike! Our first few times in Paris, we ate at a few Michelin-starred restaurants and they were, of course, very good. But, like you, we much prefer the smaller restaurants and bistros. We tend to stay in the 7th now, so more of our restaurants are there (i.e., Le Fontaine de Mars, Au Bon Accueil, Les Clos des Gourmets). Other favorites are La Cordonnnerie near the Tuileries, the Royal Madeleine near the Madeleine of course, the Clown Bar near le Cirque d'Hiver for a fun experience, and Creperie Beaubourg near the Centre Pompidou and the St. Phalle fountain when we need a Breton galette and cidre fix!
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