Portugal. What A Wonderful Country
May 13th, 2005, 02:42 PM
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Portugal. What A Wonderful Country
Although I have posted many times, I have never written a trip report. Because Portugal is not reported on as much as some of the other countries, this time I decided to do a trip report.
Our twelve night trip to Portugal began on United Air Lines from Pittsburgh to Lisbon and back. They were frequent flier mile tickets and we had to double connect, but otherwise the flights were fine and uneventful.
I made all of the arrangement myself after research and lots of help from the Forum. We rented a car for ten of the days through Carjet.co,uk. The car was picked up at the Lisbon Budget rental counter. The price of the car was fantastic and we ordered an automatic. The car was waiting for us at the airport.
The day of our arrival, we drove to Frades. This is a little hamlet near Braga. The roads were wonderful but the almost 400km was a long drive. We spent the first four nights in Casa De Requeixo. It is mentioned in Frommer's.
This is a wonderful and very special place that has been in the current owner's family since the 1500's and is lovely. We had an apartment. But this was an apartment plus. They provided daily maid service, fresh towels and even changed our sheets after two days. Every morning we would find a package of fresh rolls on our door, purchased from women who walked through the small village in the early morning. If you have a car, this is a perfect place for a family because the owner, a daughter and son all live on the property. It is very safe.
While near Braga, we spent a day in Porto, drove through the Peneda Geres, followed the Drouro Valley and sampled Port at a Quinta, visited Guimaraes and Criteria Briterios (we were the only visitors). In Lindoso, near the Spanish border, we were invited to join the community celebration and listened to music and sampled their barbeque.
After leaving Frades, we traveled to Bucaco. We tried to also visit Conimbraga. The weather was lovely and although our guide book said the sight was open until 20:00, at 18:00 it was locked up tight. This night we were at the Palace Hotel du Bucaco. Lovely.
Our next four night were spent in Lourinha, in a cottage over the ocean. On our way to Lourinha, we visited Tomar,Batalha, Alcobaca, Fatima. Our cottage belonged to Casal dos Patos. The setting was perfect. WE could sit at the edge of the world and watch the sunset. A stairway led to the beach. We visited Sintra, Obidos, the market of Caldas da Rainha, and much more.
We ended the trip with three nights in Lisbon. Dropping the car off at the airport, we took a taxi to our apartment very near Rossio in old Lisbon.
I know I have probably missed things (still very tired). But mainly, I cannot say enough about the gracious Portugese people. To a person they were helpful. A question was never too stupid, a reply never anything but helpful. Prices were very good. The food was wonderful.
I encourage everyone to visit.
Our twelve night trip to Portugal began on United Air Lines from Pittsburgh to Lisbon and back. They were frequent flier mile tickets and we had to double connect, but otherwise the flights were fine and uneventful.
I made all of the arrangement myself after research and lots of help from the Forum. We rented a car for ten of the days through Carjet.co,uk. The car was picked up at the Lisbon Budget rental counter. The price of the car was fantastic and we ordered an automatic. The car was waiting for us at the airport.
The day of our arrival, we drove to Frades. This is a little hamlet near Braga. The roads were wonderful but the almost 400km was a long drive. We spent the first four nights in Casa De Requeixo. It is mentioned in Frommer's.
This is a wonderful and very special place that has been in the current owner's family since the 1500's and is lovely. We had an apartment. But this was an apartment plus. They provided daily maid service, fresh towels and even changed our sheets after two days. Every morning we would find a package of fresh rolls on our door, purchased from women who walked through the small village in the early morning. If you have a car, this is a perfect place for a family because the owner, a daughter and son all live on the property. It is very safe.
While near Braga, we spent a day in Porto, drove through the Peneda Geres, followed the Drouro Valley and sampled Port at a Quinta, visited Guimaraes and Criteria Briterios (we were the only visitors). In Lindoso, near the Spanish border, we were invited to join the community celebration and listened to music and sampled their barbeque.
After leaving Frades, we traveled to Bucaco. We tried to also visit Conimbraga. The weather was lovely and although our guide book said the sight was open until 20:00, at 18:00 it was locked up tight. This night we were at the Palace Hotel du Bucaco. Lovely.
Our next four night were spent in Lourinha, in a cottage over the ocean. On our way to Lourinha, we visited Tomar,Batalha, Alcobaca, Fatima. Our cottage belonged to Casal dos Patos. The setting was perfect. WE could sit at the edge of the world and watch the sunset. A stairway led to the beach. We visited Sintra, Obidos, the market of Caldas da Rainha, and much more.
We ended the trip with three nights in Lisbon. Dropping the car off at the airport, we took a taxi to our apartment very near Rossio in old Lisbon.
I know I have probably missed things (still very tired). But mainly, I cannot say enough about the gracious Portugese people. To a person they were helpful. A question was never too stupid, a reply never anything but helpful. Prices were very good. The food was wonderful.
I encourage everyone to visit.
May 13th, 2005, 03:55 PM
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Thanks for your report, Sher. I enjoyed reading it. I was waiting for your report and sssteve's who should be back by now also.
We are going there in July so I may come back with some questions. I am delighted to hear that you enjoyed your trip!
We are going there in July so I may come back with some questions. I am delighted to hear that you enjoyed your trip!
May 13th, 2005, 04:15 PM
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Hi Sher, I have friends in Italy that go to Portgual about every 3 years and they rave about it to. They think it is funny that all the American's visit Italy and hardly ever go to Portugal.
A question, did you find many people that spoke a little bit of English?
Was communicating a problem (I assume you do not speak Portugese). Thanks
A question, did you find many people that spoke a little bit of English?
Was communicating a problem (I assume you do not speak Portugese). Thanks
May 13th, 2005, 04:35 PM
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Thank you for posting your report. I have been to Portugal twice, but not to the areas you mentioned -- you've given me reason to go back a third time! Portugal is a beautiful country with wonderful people.
May 13th, 2005, 05:27 PM
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How nice to see a report on Portugal.
We travelled there twice, many years ago, but never to the areas you described (except Lisbon).
Aren't the people there amazing? It's nice to know they are still kind and wonderful and haven't become jaded by all the tourists.
We stayed in a friend of a friend's townhouse at Vilamoura for three months in 1986, complete with daily maid, and we adored it.
I'll have to show this to my husband tonight - he keeps wanting to go back, and I think your report will have him buying tickets. (We are suppose to go to Italy next year - maybe we'll have to tack on a few more weeks!!!). Thanks for making my day.
We travelled there twice, many years ago, but never to the areas you described (except Lisbon).
Aren't the people there amazing? It's nice to know they are still kind and wonderful and haven't become jaded by all the tourists.
We stayed in a friend of a friend's townhouse at Vilamoura for three months in 1986, complete with daily maid, and we adored it.
I'll have to show this to my husband tonight - he keeps wanting to go back, and I think your report will have him buying tickets. (We are suppose to go to Italy next year - maybe we'll have to tack on a few more weeks!!!). Thanks for making my day.
May 13th, 2005, 07:28 PM
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The people in Portugal were amongst the friendliest we have ever met. We joke often about the directions we received. WE would stop and ask directions, almost always from someone who did not speak English. They in turn would ask another for help and they would ask another and on and on and on. Generally in the end we had about 12 to 15 people standng around discussing our problem and explaining directions Generally it was not helpful because we did not understand what they were saying but make no mistake, they were trying to be friendly and helpful. Usually we drove away waving and smiling an really appreciating their attempt even though we were still lost. I wonder how many people in our countries would try so hard to help people in language they did not understans. We absolutely loved the people in Portugal. Bravo.
May 13th, 2005, 07:40 PM
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Uh Oh, Sher! - Now you did it. Just came back from Germany 2 days ago, thought my travel bug was satisfied for a while and now here you are trying to get me hooked on something so soon. I've been fascinated by Portugal and the language for years so it was great to see your report. Gonna print it - Thanks!
May 14th, 2005, 01:40 AM
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Here's another Portugal lover! I've been there twice so far, and I also loved the town of Coimbra, which wasn't mentioned in Sher's report.
As for the knowledge of English: I think quite some younger people speak English at a reasonable level, more than in Spain or France or Italy. Main reason: they don't have dubbing on tv, so all the programs which are originally English spoken only get subtitles. Now you also get the explanation why Flemish, Dutch and Scandinavian people speak relatively better English (not because they also have Germanic languages... just look at the Germans and their English!)
I wonna go back to Portugal !!! I just love the people. They have this little melancholical touch, it's like the fado runs through their veins!
As for the knowledge of English: I think quite some younger people speak English at a reasonable level, more than in Spain or France or Italy. Main reason: they don't have dubbing on tv, so all the programs which are originally English spoken only get subtitles. Now you also get the explanation why Flemish, Dutch and Scandinavian people speak relatively better English (not because they also have Germanic languages... just look at the Germans and their English!)
I wonna go back to Portugal !!! I just love the people. They have this little melancholical touch, it's like the fado runs through their veins!
May 14th, 2005, 02:59 AM
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I love Portugal too! Been there twice and just got back in late March. People are friendly and food is gorgeous! Do try their Seafood Rice... I preferred it to the Spanish version of Paella. And of cos their pastries. We bought a dozen of their egg tarts each day and on the day we leave, another dozen to Madrid to ease our cravings. There is another pastry which resembles a sugared donut which I personally adored it!
And as compared to Spain, I think Portugal is alot more "English" friendly. (At least I know what I'm ordering on the menu)
Love the Estoril Coast and Cabo da Roca is mystical and romantic. Do take their tram up to the Castelo while in Lisbon. The view from the 28m-high Cristo Rei statue which overlooks Lisbon is awesome. It is a replica of Rio’s Christ the Redeemer and was erected in 1959 to thank God for having spared Portugal during World War II.
Bcos we had only 2 days in Portugal, we took a day tour to Sintra from Inside Lisbon which covers quite a number of places. I won't say its the best, but for those with limited resources and hope to cover as much of Portugal without a car, that's definitely a choice. The guide is very friendly and helpful.
http://www.insidelisbon.com
We stayed in Americano Residencial for 50 Euros per night. Room is decent, clean and airy. Staff isn't very friendly, but who cares. Its only 10 seconds of contact everyday anyway. The biggest merit of the hotel is probably its location. 2 minutes from the Baixia Metro and 5 minutes walk to all the restaurants and shops. I was also wondering why is it sandwiched between a supermarket, to only find out that the supermarket belongs to them too!
Hmmm.... didn't started out to write such a long post but just couldn't resist.
Hopefully that's a little "pay back" for all the information I got from the forum so far.
And as compared to Spain, I think Portugal is alot more "English" friendly. (At least I know what I'm ordering on the menu)
Love the Estoril Coast and Cabo da Roca is mystical and romantic. Do take their tram up to the Castelo while in Lisbon. The view from the 28m-high Cristo Rei statue which overlooks Lisbon is awesome. It is a replica of Rio’s Christ the Redeemer and was erected in 1959 to thank God for having spared Portugal during World War II.
Bcos we had only 2 days in Portugal, we took a day tour to Sintra from Inside Lisbon which covers quite a number of places. I won't say its the best, but for those with limited resources and hope to cover as much of Portugal without a car, that's definitely a choice. The guide is very friendly and helpful.
http://www.insidelisbon.com
We stayed in Americano Residencial for 50 Euros per night. Room is decent, clean and airy. Staff isn't very friendly, but who cares. Its only 10 seconds of contact everyday anyway. The biggest merit of the hotel is probably its location. 2 minutes from the Baixia Metro and 5 minutes walk to all the restaurants and shops. I was also wondering why is it sandwiched between a supermarket, to only find out that the supermarket belongs to them too!
Hmmm.... didn't started out to write such a long post but just couldn't resist.
Hopefully that's a little "pay back" for all the information I got from the forum so far.
May 14th, 2005, 03:06 AM
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Hello Sher: My first trip to Europe in 1993 was to Portugal. I will always remember this one time when I boarded a local bus to go shopping. An elderly lady got on carrying a beautiful bouquet of flowers and sat next to me.As we reached my destination and I got up to leave, she tapped me on the shoulder and offered me a wild rose accompanied by a great smile.
These are the things that you remember .
Thank you for bringing back fond memories.
These are the things that you remember .
Thank you for bringing back fond memories.
May 14th, 2005, 03:29 AM
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Portugal is certainly an undiscovered gem. I have been planning a return visit since 1998, when we crossed over from Spain and were pleasantly surprised by how relaxed and welcome we felt throughout the visit. We arrived with no reservations to Viana Do Castelo and the town's Office of Tourism hooked us up with a local couple who had apartments for rent, 300 meters from the beach, fully furnished for $30/day. We barbecued, sunbathed, did wonderful sightseeing for three days and promised ourselves that we would return to Portugal.
Another nice surprise was to find out that Portuguese on the Costa Verde (Green Coast-- coastal area from Porto up north) are much more familiar (or willing?) to speak English than Spanish. Centuries of a well established wine trade with Great Britain have provided the venue for locals to understand and speak English fairly well.
Yes, Sher, I am with you....Portugal is a wonderful destination.
Another nice surprise was to find out that Portuguese on the Costa Verde (Green Coast-- coastal area from Porto up north) are much more familiar (or willing?) to speak English than Spanish. Centuries of a well established wine trade with Great Britain have provided the venue for locals to understand and speak English fairly well.
Yes, Sher, I am with you....Portugal is a wonderful destination.
May 14th, 2005, 07:00 AM
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Boy. After reading these replies, I left so much out.
Cigalechanta. We have lots of pictures, and I will try to post some. I am not very compuiter literate.
Marianna. I realize that I left out lots of details. If you want, you can email me: [email protected].
My husband bought two sets of language tapes before we went. He also studied a lot. The phrases we mastered were: Do you speak English? and We are lost!
We found a mixed bag of people who spoke English.
Sprig. We had the same experiences. If we met someone and asked directions and they did not speak English, they would call anyone around to find out if they could help. And they were so helpful that we didn't have the heart to not smile and drive away, totally perplexed.
Stardust. We even took a break and went to a cinema in Lisbon. The movies are all in English with Portugese subtitles. I really felt sorry for them because the movie we saw we had difficulty understanding in English. Maybe they did better with only subtitles. By the way, we did go to Coimbra but only for dinner.
The Drouro Valley drive and the Geres trip took most of two days. WE just couldn't go everywhere. But we wanted to.
My husband had an incident on Tram 28 in Lisbon with pickpockets. They didn't get anything, and I have to say it was non-threatening. But one of the older woman on the tram kept motioning to me to watch my purse. She knew what was going down.
Cigalechanta. We have lots of pictures, and I will try to post some. I am not very compuiter literate.
Marianna. I realize that I left out lots of details. If you want, you can email me: [email protected].
My husband bought two sets of language tapes before we went. He also studied a lot. The phrases we mastered were: Do you speak English? and We are lost!
We found a mixed bag of people who spoke English.
Sprig. We had the same experiences. If we met someone and asked directions and they did not speak English, they would call anyone around to find out if they could help. And they were so helpful that we didn't have the heart to not smile and drive away, totally perplexed.
Stardust. We even took a break and went to a cinema in Lisbon. The movies are all in English with Portugese subtitles. I really felt sorry for them because the movie we saw we had difficulty understanding in English. Maybe they did better with only subtitles. By the way, we did go to Coimbra but only for dinner.
The Drouro Valley drive and the Geres trip took most of two days. WE just couldn't go everywhere. But we wanted to.
My husband had an incident on Tram 28 in Lisbon with pickpockets. They didn't get anything, and I have to say it was non-threatening. But one of the older woman on the tram kept motioning to me to watch my purse. She knew what was going down.
May 14th, 2005, 07:17 AM
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Marriane - Steve is back!! Thanks for remembering. We got back last week and I just hadn't gotten around to writing. We had a great time. I'll be happy to answer any questions. I usually reserve my trip report for my web page but that will take several weeks.
I do want to thank everybody who helped plan our trip.
Here's a short short report -
The people are great. As Sher wrote, they go out of their way to help. The fish are absolutely the freshest and most delicious we have tasted on the any grill anywhere. We were in Lisbon, Cascais, Sintra, Obidos, Alcobaca, Batalha, Tomar, Fatima, Porto, Viana, Braga, Ponte de Lima, Arcos de Valdez, Castello de Vide, Marvao and the Setubal peninsula.
Most amazing place - the Pena Palace in Sintra. Biggest surprise - the beautiful towns in the north - Braga, Arcos de Valdez and Ponte De Lima. Not to be missed - the Porto institute in Porto.
I promise a full report on my web page.
I do want to thank everybody who helped plan our trip.
Here's a short short report -
The people are great. As Sher wrote, they go out of their way to help. The fish are absolutely the freshest and most delicious we have tasted on the any grill anywhere. We were in Lisbon, Cascais, Sintra, Obidos, Alcobaca, Batalha, Tomar, Fatima, Porto, Viana, Braga, Ponte de Lima, Arcos de Valdez, Castello de Vide, Marvao and the Setubal peninsula.
Most amazing place - the Pena Palace in Sintra. Biggest surprise - the beautiful towns in the north - Braga, Arcos de Valdez and Ponte De Lima. Not to be missed - the Porto institute in Porto.
I promise a full report on my web page.
May 14th, 2005, 08:27 AM
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Welcome back, Steve!
I am so happy to hear that you enjoyed Portugal also. I will look forward to the full report on you web page. Please tell us how to find it.
In July, we will be staying in a B&B in Cascais and during that week we plan to visit that area including Sintra and Lisbon. Do you have any restaurant recommendations for Cascais, Sintra and Lisbon? Our next week will be in a villa in Prai da Luz near Lagos. Did you go to the Algarve at all?
Unfortunately, we did not plan to travel to the north so we will have to save that area for another trip unless some of the places you mentioned are not too far north of Lisbon. I'll have to check a map.
I'm starting to feel that two weeks just won't be enough time for Portugal!
I am so happy to hear that you enjoyed Portugal also. I will look forward to the full report on you web page. Please tell us how to find it.
In July, we will be staying in a B&B in Cascais and during that week we plan to visit that area including Sintra and Lisbon. Do you have any restaurant recommendations for Cascais, Sintra and Lisbon? Our next week will be in a villa in Prai da Luz near Lagos. Did you go to the Algarve at all?
Unfortunately, we did not plan to travel to the north so we will have to save that area for another trip unless some of the places you mentioned are not too far north of Lisbon. I'll have to check a map.
I'm starting to feel that two weeks just won't be enough time for Portugal!
May 14th, 2005, 11:38 AM
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Marriana -
We didn't go to the Algarve because we live on the meditteranean coast and don't need more beach resorts.
In Cascais we ate at "O Pescador" which is right in the center of town near the fish market and enjoyed it very much. It's on Rua Das Flores a street with several restaurants.
We ate at several restaurants in Lisbon. If you are interested in an upscale restaurant with modern variations on classic portuguese dishes, you could try "Pap' Acorda". It's in the Barrio Alto (the upper old city). A little expensive but very nice.
Or go to Alcantara, which is on the way to Belem. There's a whole row of restaurants. We ate at one and it was fine. The area is right below the 25th of July bridge and is very picturesque.
The name of the restaurant we ate at was "Capitao Gancho", but don't take that as a recommendation. I think all the restaurants in Alcantara are pretty much the same level.
The portugal page is only just started but the address of my web page is:
www.travel.stv77.com
We didn't go to the Algarve because we live on the meditteranean coast and don't need more beach resorts.
In Cascais we ate at "O Pescador" which is right in the center of town near the fish market and enjoyed it very much. It's on Rua Das Flores a street with several restaurants.
We ate at several restaurants in Lisbon. If you are interested in an upscale restaurant with modern variations on classic portuguese dishes, you could try "Pap' Acorda". It's in the Barrio Alto (the upper old city). A little expensive but very nice.
Or go to Alcantara, which is on the way to Belem. There's a whole row of restaurants. We ate at one and it was fine. The area is right below the 25th of July bridge and is very picturesque.
The name of the restaurant we ate at was "Capitao Gancho", but don't take that as a recommendation. I think all the restaurants in Alcantara are pretty much the same level.
The portugal page is only just started but the address of my web page is:
www.travel.stv77.com
May 14th, 2005, 12:23 PM
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Thanks so much, Steve.
I will add your web page address and the names of the restaurants and areas you suggest to my notes. I appreciate your help and I will keep checking your web page for your report.
How wonderful to live on the Mediterranean coast! I live there in my dreams!!
I will add your web page address and the names of the restaurants and areas you suggest to my notes. I appreciate your help and I will keep checking your web page for your report.
How wonderful to live on the Mediterranean coast! I live there in my dreams!!
May 14th, 2005, 12:28 PM
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I just checked out your website, Steve. It looks fabulous! I will now pour myself a glass (or two) of wine and go on a few of your journeys. This should keep me occupied until our trip in July.
Thanks so much!
Thanks so much!
May 14th, 2005, 01:47 PM
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Re the Portuguese speaking English. I spent a month in Spain/Portugal from mid Jan - mid Feb. When in a shop in Evora, the owner spoke English along with many others..I asked about it and she told me that it was mandatory, beginning in the 1st grade that the children select a second language to learn...the language they all want is English! Not this way in Spain!
Nov 10th, 2005, 08:22 PM
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CASAL DOS PATOS
Hello, Thank you for your very wonderful information about Portugal. I would love to hear more about CASAL DOS PATOS and the surrounding beaches. I am looking for alternative areas to the Algarve.
Julie
Hello, Thank you for your very wonderful information about Portugal. I would love to hear more about CASAL DOS PATOS and the surrounding beaches. I am looking for alternative areas to the Algarve.
Julie
