Fodor's Travel Talk Forums - Portugal trip report

Portugal was fabulous - this has become one of my favorite trips ever! I will try not to repeat too much of what has already been written (and since I left my notes on the train the day before we left, it won't be as detailed as I would like). My husband was in charge of pictures; therefore, they will be published separately, as I really don't have a clue...
Here goes...(Hope I can do this without my daily hit of bica - Starbucks will never be the same...)
Evora-
We flew from the U.S. to Lisboa via Paris; my suitcase enjoyed Paris so much that it decided to remain there. Luckily, I had packed an extra top, change of underwear, and a bathing suit in my carry-on, but, due to the new rules, no cosmetics or hair care items (no close-up pictures of me for the first few days!). We rented a car through Economy, which I had booked only the week before after reading about it on Fodor's. It was a Priceline-type company that required a deposit (3 day rental of manual w/air in second cheapest category- 74 euros, which was 22 euros cheaper than Car Jet, the cheapest I had found up to that point - so we decided to spring for the CDW buyout, though there was absolutely no pressure to do so) . They placed us with AutoJardim, and they were great; even though we were delayed over 3 hours (due to flight delays and lost suitcase), they did not hold us to our original time on the reservation.
We headed to Evora for our first night - boy, were we glad to have sprung for the CDW when we experienced those narrow, winding streets! No damage occurred, but we were only an inch away from trouble several times. WARNING: do not rent a midsize car if you plan to drive into this town! Our hotel was the Santa Clara, and we had a bad experience. It advertised a pool and hot tub ( I chose this hotel for that reason, hoping to unwind after a long trip); it had neither. The room floor was damp, but I thought it was from our wet shoes and rainy night; however, later that night we discovered why. We had left the air on while out for dinner and came back to a steady drip from the ceiling airconditioner - it filled half a wastebasket. When my husband tried to fix it, water cascaded down on him like a waterfall - there was that much stored in the ceiling! The desk clerk was alone and couldn't leave the desk or understand us, it was 2 a.m. at that point, and I had wet laundry in the bathroom, so we just turned off the air and tried to sleep. Do NOT go to this hotel; they had to know the condition of that room - it wasn't even worth the 55 euros we paid.
On the plus side, we LOVED Evora. Arriving at night, it is a magical place. We wandered the streets, visiting the ruins, cathedral, etc.,as they were bathed in light - just beautiful. We ate at Fialho, which we would highly recommend; I had the excellent pork with clams and my husband had a roast lamb that was to die for. However, they start you out with 5 or 6 different starter dishes - it looks like a full table when you sit down; just wave away what you don't really want, or your bill will be very high (we encountered this throughout the country, but once you know it's okay to wave it away, it's really no big deal). We had our first taste of Vinho Verde(VERY reasonable), to which I quickly became addicted. It's like a sparkling sauvignon blanc and is especially refreshing when it is warm outside. Then we wandered over to the Pousada and had our first taste of Ginjinha, which would also prove to be addictive (it's like a cherry liquor and you can have it with booze-soaked cherries in the glass). Although you can get it in special bars all over Lisbon for 1 euro a shot, it was worth the 3 euros a shot the pousada charged just for the atmosphere on our first night.

In the morning we had planned to do the walking tour that leaves from the TI at 10. However, it was POURING rain, so we just slept in and lingered over breakfast. It slowed to a drizzle and finally stopped, so we did a self-guided tour, visiting the spots we had viewed from afar the night before. The Se (cathedral) was interesting (our first of many viewings of the pregnant Mary) and had cloisters attached with a great view. Do NOT miss the church museum - it has a neat travel Virgin Mary statue that opens up with ivory carvings inside, and also a sliver of the True Cross surrounded by hundreds and hundreds of gems.
Our next stop was the Chapel of Bones; it must be seen to be believed - an entire room created from skulls and bones! Then, we encountered a protest at the university while wandering through the park (never did learn the subject), but watched an interesting costumed skit. Finally, we had a good stand-up lunch at a bar (really good quiche in Portugal and some tasty breaded cod appetizers - served cold); also they have wonderful fresh squeezed orange juice you can watch them make.
My first daytime impression of Portugal was of the beauty of the streets - the squares and many streets themselves are paved with these mosaic tiles in patterns. I found myself constantly just stopping and gazing at them! Also, there are tiles everywhere - they use tiles the way we use bricks or paint on buildings, both inside and out; it's incredibly beautiful.
We also shopped a little - if you want something made of cork, they have it - umbrellas, briefcases, belts - you name it! I bought (for 67 euros) a cork purse, as a momento of my trip - something I know I will never see at home, and I just love it. They are waterproof and incredibly lightweight - you don't even realize you are carrying them, so they are great for travel. I saw a few elsewhere in Portugal, but the selection and prices are better in Evora.
THE ALGARVE
Next, we drove to the Algarve; it's a beautiful drive through a countryside dotted with vines and cork trees (picture Tuscany only with cork trees). I made my husband stop for a close-up picture of a red-trunked cork tree - those are the ones that have been stripped for bark - it is so amazing that they can only be harvested every 9 years, yet you see cork products everywhere! The Alentejo was so lovely that I really envy Sher her stay there in the small towns; I would love to go back and do that - can't wait to read her trip report. I digress...anyway, it was about a 3 1/2 hour drive, as we got off the expressway too soon - but we did find one of those huge bottles of water with a carry handle for only 34 cents in a small village!
I had booked us at the Sheraton Algarve in Falesia several miles outside of Albueferia (which looked to be a busy and "to-be-avoided" kind of town). This place was paradise - a 5 star hotel (I found an incredible last minute deal on-line for only 110 euros a night) - you never needed to leave the property. We had an ocean-view room with all the amenities - bathrobe, slippers, etc., and the conceirge called the airport and located my suitcase, which was being flown into Faro. Awaiting us was a tray with a bottle of tawny port
(yes, the beginning of another addiction - are you spotting a trend here?)and some picture-perfect (and delicious) marzipan fruits (only sorry we didn't get a picture before diving in), which we enjoyed on our large balcony. We then took an elevator down to the steps which led to a private beach - stunning scenery with red rock cliffs surrounding the beach. We waded the beach and watched the sunset - so romantic! Then we enjoyed the indoor pool- bring a shower cap or they will charge you for a bathing cap,which was the only sour note on this propery (there were several outdoor pools as well, all beautifully landscaped) - and hot tub, which overlooked the ocean, and sauna, which was co-ed. Dinner at their restaurant O'Pescador was excellent as well. The next morning my husband played golf (a nine hole course, which was part of the resort) with rented equipment; it was pricy for 9 holes (about 100 including rental), but lovely scenery and some dramatic holes along the ocean where he had to drive the ball over cliffs). We had a wonderful breakfast that was included ( fresh squeezed juice machine, an omelet station, meats, eggs, cheeses( some great Portuguese ones, brie,etc.), pastries(Portugal has the best pastries - better than France or Spain, and I loved those) & breads - more than anyone could eat. Then we went for a swim on the gorgeous, sandy beach. Their private beach had a towel hut there and chairs with awnings - no charge, unlike many resorts - and you could shower off the sand and walk on the wooden deck without getting sandy again.
LAGOS
Next, we headed to Lagos (an hour away), where we stayed at the Tivoli Lagos. We had been forewarned by Carolyn on a previous post (which is why we changed our 2 night stay there to only one). It was decent, but by no means deluxe (still, our rate was only 76 euros W/ breakfast), but they nickle and dime you to death (7.50 to store luggage for a few hours, etc., and the staff seemed harried). I booked it for the location (we never did get to the pools) near the Marina.
At home I had looked at the Bom Dia website (www.bomdia.info) and planned to take their 5:00 trip; I asked the concierge to book it ( a 3.50 charge!), but ended up being worth it, as the time had been changed to 4:00 (probably due to shorter days) and we would have missed it. This was a TERRIFIC trip, and I would highly recommend it. For only 17 euros a person (your first beer included!), you get a 2 hour trip. We started out on a sailboat (you'll see it, along with stunning photos,
when my husband finally gets them out of his new camera and onto the computer - I wish I knew how to do it so I could integrate my narrative with photos as everyone else has done - sorry!); anyway,we sailed on the calm, azure ocean out to the fantastic rock formations for which Lagos is famous. It was so much fun - I usually get seasick, but the water was perfect. We anchored and took small boats around the grottoes and saw intimate coves and unique formations up close. Some people even swam off the boat, but we didn't. After the boat tour, we drove to Sagres to watch the sunset at "the end of the world". There were some beautiful ocean views - very rough waves, rugged terrain and even a few people surfing. You don't need to spend much time there, but it's worth the drive (about 35 min., I think).
That night we went into old town Lagos for dinner. Again, I was blown away by the gorgeous mosaic streets and squares with the outdoor restaurants everywhere - such ambiance! We dined outside at Don Sebastiao's (Rua do 25 de Abril 20-22), and it was another fabulous meal ( I know I keep saying that, but this was my favorite so far). I had pork chops with figs - an absolutely delicious combination that you must try here!
The next morning we hiked along the cliffs above the ocean for a different perspective of the beaches and rock formations. You can actually drive to several different areas if you don't want to walk the whole thing. A car is really helpful in the Algarve. We thoroughly enjoyed the views and ended up not going back into the town as previously planned. My purchase in Lagos was a handmade poncho - they are on sale all over for 25-35 euros, depending upon style.

We said goodbye to the Algarve and drove back to the Lisbon airport (took 3 hours on an almost deserted expressway - the tolls are pricy, but the roads are good - use the city names rather than numbers to navigate, as the latter keep changing). We had no trouble driving in Portugal except for the very narrow streets in Evora (I wouldn't want to tackle Lisbon, though). Those roundabouts are great inventions! My husband said that the Ford Fiesta we rented was much smoother and easier to switch gears with than the foreign cars we had rented on previous trips to France and Spain, for whatever that is worth. Our ride was not jerky at all.
MADEIRA
We flew out that evening on TAP, the national airline. I had booked tickets through Expedia(I tried to use the TAP website but it wouldn't process my American credit card) for 75 euros each way, an hour and a half flight (they give you food and even beer!).
Madeira is a place of INCREDIBLE natural beauty, and it was one of our favorite parts of our Portuguese experience. It is one of those places that you must experience, as the camera cannot do it justice (like the Grand Canyon). If you are at all into hiking ( and I must admit I am not particularly athletic), you must do a Levada hike. It was the high point (literally and figuratively) of our trip there.
Our arrival:
I had booked our hotel The Porto Santa Maria(4 star, 100 euros a night) on Priceline Europe (not a pre-pay like our Priceline) after much research; it was located in the old town Funchal on the ocean (most hotels are a 20 min. uphill walk away). We arrived at 9:30 p.m. ( take the airport shuttle bus which meets every plane for only 5 euros a person, as opposed to a cab for 30, unless you have a lot of luggage).
We arrived (with all our suitcases!) only to discover that our hotel was overbooked! I was almost in tears, as I had planned so far in advance( wanting to be in the town itself) and had prebooked a tour and a hike for pick-up there in the morning. The young concierge was very gracious, settling us into the bar for free drinks. Then he set us up with an ocean view room (we had booked garden)
at Cliff's Bay ( a 5 star hotel!) with half board (which means breakfast and dinner included), called our tours to tell them of our new digs, and arranged a driver.
This hotel was superb in every detail - rooms, pools, food (I can't begin to describe the restaurants there),service, etc. - all for our original 100 euros a night!
The next morning we had a fabulous (I know I need some new adjectives) breakfast - better than the Sheraton even ( this one had champagne!!). Our "Best of the West" tour (an introduction to the island's most dramatic scenery and one recommended by most visitors) was 29 euros a person (8:45 - 4:30) through Strawberry Tours (www.lido-tours.com/ was quite good, as far as tours go (we usually prefer going out on our own). I would NOT recommend driving on your own - you'll be too busy watching the road to see the scenery (hairpin turns, steep drops, no guardrails,and crazy drivers. We saw some incredible views - each corner was better than the last - and visited interesting some towns (one had lava pools that you could swim in - the tour stops there for an hour and a half). We had lunch on our own - opted not to go w/ the guide but found our own little place above a main restaurant with a view of the pools. A must-try is the black scabbard (fish) with bananas; I am not a fish eater, but this was totally delicious - not at all fishy - and something unique to this island.
After the tour, we donned our provided robes and hit the pools ( an elevator down to the seawater pool and a heated indoor/outdoor pool with lovely views of the ocean from the terrace. Then we relaxed on our balcony (padded wicker furniture) with a bottle of Dao Reserve which we had bought at a grocery in one of the towns (a dry red that I had read about - another addiction!). Another lovely sunset! We had dinner that was to die for - all the selections look like something out of Bon Appetite! There was entertainment - Madeiran folkloric dancers - very fun. They even pulled me up to dance (no, we didn't have the camera with us at dinner - darn!).
The next morning we took the guided Rabacal Levada Walk (35 euros a person - worth every penny). Levadas are like cemented irrigation ditches which run all over the island. There are narrow pathways next to them and there are several different walks you can do (range from easy to difficult - this one was moderate). The guides describe everything you see ( you would never get this much info. on your own - they must train for 3 years to qualify as guide) and watch for your safety (there are stretches with steep drops and no guard rail) - but there is beauty everywhere and it will be one of the most fun things you ever do. As you walk (total walk time about 4 hours, though a long drive to get there)you will pass blueberry trees (yes, actual trees) and blackberry bushes from which you can eat, and fabulous (there's that word again) views everywhere. The walk culminates in an alcove of 25 waterfalls. You can rest there, splash, eat (bring something), and take photos in a spectacular setting. The climate on Madeira is very temperate - pretty much in the 70's during the day and 60's at night, so it is just about perfect for hiking. We got back in time for a repeat of the previous night at the resort (I could really get used to all that luxury!).
The next day we decided to hire a taxi for the day. The Best of the West tour was great, but I get tired of all those "coffee and shopping" stops and I like to control where and how long I stay - plus I could combine 3 offered 'tours' into one for the 130 euros the cab cost (concierge will arrange - but agree on price first). We did most of the best of the East (including Santana of triangular thatched hut fame),Eira de Serrado & Nun's Valley, Pico d Arieiro & Camacha (handmade wicker - I bought a pretty, patterned basket) in one day. You will see some pretty spectacular scenery, but bring a jacket for the mountain top - and an umbrella - you'll be in the clouds! We even saw a rainbow in the clouds. Our driver took us to a local place (he lived in the area)that still serves meat cooked on real laurel skewers (a Madeiran speciality but the laurel trees are endangered so no more can be cut and many places no longer use real laurel). This was a good alternative to tours if you want to see a lot but don't have much time (we had 4 days). We were back in time for our evening resort activities.
On our last day we went into Funchal old town and took the cable car ride (10euros - about 15 or 20 min.) up to Monte, a small town with neat church and palace gardens. It was quite scenic. Of course, the real reason you go to Monte is for the toboggan ride. In the old days( before good roads) wicker baskets with runners were used to transport goods from Monte to Funchal. After awhile people took to riding them - only cushions were added. For 25 euros a couple (and a tip - they work hard), you get in this basketlike toboggan ( pictures are coming, I promise) with greased runners and two men run next to you with sticks( for stablization) as you careen down the steep cobblestone road. It's all kinds of fun - and truly a unique experience. It is about a 20 minute ride, but ends a bit short of Funchal. There are cabs waiting, but we took the scenic (if steep) walk into town, passing residences with flowers spilling down their walls and patios covered with wires with vines growing on them - kind of a natural roof. Madeira makes use of every spare inch of space, as it is so mountainous - it's amazing to see the banana plants in every piece of ground and to watch workers on the steep slopes with hand tools.
Once in town, we headed for Blandy's Madeira Wine Tour (we carted home a bottle of this new addiction, as it is not readily available here). The tour is fascinating (10:30, 2:30,3:30) - you get to see the old style equipment and learn how madeira is processed differently than all other wines ( we've done lots of wine tours - you've probably guessed, and this one is different). Come a little early - your 5 euro entry gets you samples of 4 different kinds. Then, after the tour, you get samples of the good stuff (well, the 5 yr. old stuff, anyway - our fav. was the last, reminiscent of the floral reds in Burgundy). We like our wine dry, but we liked this (just as we liked the tawny port). The atmosphere is "old world wine cellar" .
After this tasting we grabbed a cab on the street(rather than waiting for our hotel's free shuttle) and , for 25 euros, he took us back up to the hotel, waited while we got our luggage, and took us to the airport (25 minutes away). We really hated to say goodbye to Madeira!!
Well, I will have to continue this report later ... coming up ...Lisboa!