Fodor's Travel Talk Forums - Portugal journal, part 3

Next morning we first went to Portagem to see the Roman Bridge. On to Tomar, where the Knights of Templar established a fortress in Portugal as a base to throw out the Moors. The Templars were disbanded but somewhat resurrected as the Knights of Christ. They were quite influential Their insignia was on the Sails of the caravels on their voyages of discovery (Crimson cross on white sail) They were also apparently quite wealthy. The fortification at Tomar was very extensive- part convent- part monastery. If the Olympics had a hide and seek competition and limited it to one building, this is where they should hold it. We arrived on a Sunday morning so it was free, and we were free to wander everywhere. The oratorio of the Church was very impressive. The fortifications were considered state of the art, but the most compelling features were the extent of the decorations over the massive building.
We then went to Fatima, saw the spot where the apparitions appeared, saw the inexplicable burning of candles of all shapes and sizes into a huge barbecue-like fire. This produced a large thick cloud of smoke which detracted from the setting. Because it was Sunday, we went to mass at the basilica there.
From there we went to Coimbra where we found our pension after some searching. The city being hilly makes map reading tricky. We cleaned up and then went walking around the old town. We chose an Irish Pub for dinner with tables on the river. I had a bacon cheeseburger with my pint of Guiness. Teresa had a chicken salad. We had a beautiful view of the sun setting. We grabbed pastries on the way back.
Next morning we headed first to Coimbra’s University, the most acclaimed in Portugal. We toured the elaborate and famous library, the Chapel, and the rooms of the former palace.
Next we went to St. Velhos Se, a 12th century Cathedral and also toured the cloister there. We then headed to the Church of Santa Cruz where we caught the 11:00 a.m. mass. It was over at 11:25. One chapel of the church had been converted to a bar.
We then went to the municipal market where we bought supplies for a picnic lunch. We took the funicular up to our room and got our beach stuff to drive to Figueroa do Roz where we spent the afternoon at the beach.
We returned to clean up for dinner and went to Ze Mandel, suggested by Rick Steves. It was great, a tiny hole in the wall that served pork and rice dishes that were fantastic. Tables were tight and the people friendly. We left stuffed and headed back to the room. A wonderful day.
The next morning we headed to Conimbriga, an ancient Roman town being excavated. Not quite Pompeii, but it did have the city laid out well, some large abodes, and mosaic floors everywhere.
From there we drove to the Forest of Bucaso. This was virgin forest in the 17th century when the Carmelites decide to establish a monastery halfway up its highest hill. They obtained a Papal Bull that would excommunicate anyone for cutting down a single tree, and themselves planted exotic varieties. Some monks built hermitages in the forest, and life size Stations of the Cross with terra cotta scenes in buildings on a trail that went up the hill to Santa Cruz.
In 1810 Napoleon was repelled there by Wellington and the Portuguese. The government thereafter confiscated the monastery and the royals built an opulent sumptuous lodge which is now a hotel.
After visiting the Lodge we climbed the trail and saw the stations of the cross, many were damaged. On the way down we saw the fountain of the 144 steps.
We then went to Grumairaces, where we checked in, cleaned up, walked to the old city and found some real gelato. We walked around for some time before eating dinner at a small bar/café. We had some codfish appetizers, salad, each a ½ roast chicken piri-piri and French fries. We had more gelato on the way back to the hotel.
Next morning we drove to park by the castle and ducal palace and toured both. The castle was well-preserved but small; the ducal palace featured nice furniture and art.
We then hit the archaeological museum and the sacred art museum- not much new here other than the swastikas of the Visigoths.
Next we drove to Bom Jesus which is a shrine with the Stations of the Cross on steps up to a cathedral. Again, there were life size figures in scenes in separate buildings. The cathedral likewise had a 3-D version of Calvary with a cast of characters.
From there we back tracked to the City of the Breitons, a city that had lasted thousands of years, from the early Celtic/Britons, the Romans, and finally Christian Visigoths. Much of what appeared in the museum came from here.
We backtracked again to Braga. We walked around the city after finally finding a place to park, got inside the Cathedral (Se), along with a few other churches, and found some gelato.
Back to the hotel to clean up. Dinner was shish kebobs, salad and the ubiquitous French fries. No room for dessert.