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Portugal at last!

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Old May 9th, 2022, 02:27 PM
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Progol,

I'm late to your party but sure am glad that I found your report. As usual your photos are stunning, especially those of Monserrate. I'm here for the duration.

Judy
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Old May 9th, 2022, 03:03 PM
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Oh hooray, another progol TR! Always a delight to follow you on your travels.
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Old May 9th, 2022, 04:18 PM
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Oh my gosh, I am SO impressed that you climbed to the top of the Moorish ruins in Sinatra. Wowsers, that was quite a walk! And your photos of Montserrat are just beautiful - especially the one with the rhythm of the interior columns, with one person at the end for scale and focus. ❤️ If we ever return to Lisbon, that would be on the list.
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Old May 10th, 2022, 12:33 AM
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Thanks, Judy, Aidelaidean and Iwan2go! It’s definitely different posting while on the road. If anyone wants to follow me onmFavebook, Imma bit more up to date there than here. Feel free to message me if you want to “friend” me there. But I will post here….eventually!
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Old May 10th, 2022, 12:40 AM
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Meals in Sintra - we were there for 3 nights and ate in the following places: Dom Pipas, a wonderful, traditional-style restaurant just in the other side of the railroad station; INcomum, the well-known and highly regarded contemporary-style restaurant, and Apadeiros, another more casual, traditional-style restaurant. Our favorite was Dom Pipas - the welcome was warm and the food was great. We had the best fish soup there! INComum was also excellent, and service was second to none. But I think we are definitely more low brow in our tastes than high brow😉



Fish stew or soup at Dom Pipas - yum!
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Old May 10th, 2022, 04:52 AM
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The fish stew is right up our alley! Looks absolutely delicious!
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Old May 10th, 2022, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by KarenWoo
The fish stew is right up our alley! Looks absolutely delicious!
It was terrific!
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Old May 10th, 2022, 08:36 AM
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Progol, I know you are a cautious person and a meticulous planner. So I am sure you don't plan on taking crowded buses or trams. Thought I should let you know that I am also on the Fodors book thread, and someone there mentioned they have a friend who is currently in Portugal, and the friend and husband have Covid. She thinks they got it from riding on a crowded bus in Lisbon and most people weren't wearing masks! So they can't return to the US until they have a negative test.

I plan on being very cautious when we are in Greece. Unfortunately, Greece just lifted its mask mandates.
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Old May 10th, 2022, 08:38 AM
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Before moving on to Lisbon (where we are right now), I can’t “leave” without mentioning,again, how much I enjoyed the charming Chalet Saudade. It’s near the train station, so an easy walk when you’ve just arrived and are leaving, and just out of the busy central area where the National Palace is located. It’s a relatively easy walk along a park-like area, the street is lined with sculptures and has just a gentle uphill to the center of town.

Did I mention how much I liked the Chalet Saudade? The staff were lovely and there was port for guests in the common area to take whenever they want.





View from the room

Common area



Common area

Common area

View from the room looking up to the Moorish Castle

View from the room
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Old May 10th, 2022, 09:07 AM
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Upon seeing your photos of Monserrate, I didn't think there could be anything as pretty, but Chalet Saudade is sooo lovely. Brava, Progol.

Last edited by TDudette; May 10th, 2022 at 09:09 AM.
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Old May 10th, 2022, 09:12 AM
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So gorgeous! I have no particular desire to stay in Sintra, but I might consider it just for that hotel.
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Old May 10th, 2022, 09:17 AM
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Bem-vindo a Lisboa!

























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Old May 10th, 2022, 10:06 AM
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progol,
You're killing me with these photos! I wanna go back!
Do you know if th Elevador de Bica is operating again?
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Old May 10th, 2022, 09:39 PM
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TDudette and thursdaysd, Chalet Saudade was lovely and, even better, a warm and friendly place to stay. I’m really glad we stayed there. It was a great place to start our trip.

Maribel, I’m SO glad you’re enjoying the photos! I wouldn’t be doing all we’re doing if it weren’t for you! I didn’t know the Elevador de Bica, but it looks like it’s still not operating.
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Old May 10th, 2022, 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by KarenWoo
Progol, I know you are a cautious person and a meticulous planner. So I am sure you don't plan on taking crowded buses or trams. Thought I should let you know that I am also on the Fodors book thread, and someone there mentioned they have a friend who is currently in Portugal, and the friend and husband have Covid. She thinks they got it from riding on a crowded bus in Lisbon and most people weren't wearing masks! So they can't return to the US until they have a negative test.

I plan on being very cautious when we are in Greece. Unfortunately, Greece just lifted its mask mandates.
KarenWoo, I did see the thread here on the Europe board and I must admit, it got me a bit nervous. We did take a busy tram yesterday to see the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos, but I will add that almost everyone wore a mask. Although masking here is also not mandated, I do see a good deal of masking in most places we are going to. But I’m reminded, once again, to be cautious when it comes to crowds. I do regularly travel on buses in NYC, too, so this variant and the ease with which people seem to contract it is concerning.
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Old May 11th, 2022, 06:05 AM
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progol. So enjoying your pictures.
I wanted to add my two cents to your travels. Not that you need it.
If you are in a mind to see Fado, we recently enjoyed a show in Lisbon very near the Carmo Museum. The name is Fado do Carmo. It is kind of like a dinner theater with the very talented owners performing and also a lovely dinner. One of the owners is quite well known and has preformed with many famous singers.
I have never done it before but took a Tuk Tuk excursion with Joao. We met Joao many years ago on this very Forum. His secondary career is now driving a Tuk Tuk. You can find him most days in Chiado by the Amazon’s do Chiado shopping center. Not only was it fun and informative but it was a connection with someone who had given countless posts regarding all things Lisbon and Portugal. www.otukdojoao.com. It was kind of like a mini get together.
which many of us used to do. We would meet up somewhere in our travels and put a face to a name of posters.
I do not know where you are departing from but we tested very easily on Rua Garret. There is a pharmacy very near A Brasiliera. They have a special little room set up outside the pharmacy on the street. You cannot miss it if you are on the street. So easy and very efficient.
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Old May 11th, 2022, 06:24 AM
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Traveling from Sintra to Lisbon was a breeze. Although we missed the direct train to Rossio from Sintra, someone showed us how to get here with one easy change, so no loss whatsoever. Arriving less than an hour after we left, we are now in Lisbon! We were a bit confused when we arrived in the station, since we were on the upper level and needed to take the escalators down a level. Uh-oh, this is definitely becoming an adventure! We ended up going a long way around to get to our destination on Rua Nova do Almado, just off Rua Garrett. But it was a good orientation, with a small taste of the Lisbon hills to get us We’re staying in a huge apartment with the view (posted earlier) of the water - we can even see the Castelo de São Jorge from another set of windows. So far, we’ve struck 100% views of castles from our accommodations!

We began our explorations walking up Rua Garrett (funny, on a map, it doesn’t look quite so hilly!), and stopped in Praça Luis de Camões, an attractive square with a statue honoring one of Portugal’s greatest poets. We had enough of uphills for the moment so walked down in the direction of the water, and stumbled upon the Time Out market. If I tried to find it, it would’ve been a challenge, I’m sure, but this is travel serendipity! So we stopped here and ended up having an early supper at one of the many stands. It was busy but not overwhelmingly so, though we were both surprised how long the order took before it finally arrived.

From the Time Out Market, we strolled near the water, turning in before we walked too far. We stopped in the Praça do Municipio, where we listened to a band playing samba. What a pleasure! Eventually we had to walk uphill again - there’s no avoiding this in Lisbon! By the time we got back to our flat, we were ready to call it a night!

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Old May 11th, 2022, 06:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Sher
progol. So enjoying your pictures.
I wanted to add my two cents to your travels. Not that you need it.
If you are in a mind to see Fado, we recently enjoyed a show in Lisbon very near the Carmo Museum. The name is Fado do Carmo. It is kind of like a dinner theater with the very talented owners performing and also a lovely dinner. One of the owners is quite well known and has preformed with many famous singers.
I have never done it before but took a Tuk Tuk excursion with Joao. We met Joao many years ago on this very Forum. His secondary career is now driving a Tuk Tuk. You can find him most days in Chiado by the Amazon’s do Chiado shopping center. Not only was it fun and informative but it was a connection with someone who had given countless posts regarding all things Lisbon and Portugal. www.otukdojoao.com. It was kind of like a mini get together.
which many of us used to do. We would meet up somewhere in our travels and put a face to a name of posters.
I do not know where you are departing from but we tested very easily on Rua Garret. There is a pharmacy very near A Brasiliera. They have a special little room set up outside the pharmacy on the street. You cannot miss it if you are on the street. So easy and very efficient.
Sher, Obrigada! I was thinking about a tuk-tuk tour and knew there was a former Fodorite who ran a tuk-tuk business, so your post was timely! I don’t know if he or we will have the time, but I did just send an email to see if it might work out.

Thanks for the recommendation for the Fado show - I’ll see if we can manage it. We are just not nighttime folks, much as it would be fun to do, but I’ll see if we can push the boundaries!
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Old May 11th, 2022, 07:30 AM
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Sher,
Thanks for the tuk tuk tip. Is the drive perhaps Lobo Mau who used to post here and had the Lisbon Dining Club?
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Old May 11th, 2022, 07:54 AM
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Monday, May 9

We took a free (pay what you wish) walking tour, with Lisbon Chill-Out tours, run by a former teacher who lost his job in 2008 during the economic downturn and began leading tour groups. He gives a brief history of Portugal in a few minutes and walks us through several areas, going from Chiado, to Bairro Alto, Ribeira and up to Alfama in a mere 3 1/4 hours! And walking up Alfama is definitely not for the walking-challenged! We ended the tour at the Graça church and viewpoint.

Then M&I stopped for a long, leisurely lunch at O Cantinho Dos Seis, before continuing on to the Castelo de São Jorge and more viewpoints. By this time, we were thoroughly exhausted and wandered our way back to crash at our apartment, stopping for a few pastéis for the morning in a local shop.

Dinner was a short walk away at the lovely Cantinho do Avillez, with wonderful service and food. We arrived at 7pm, just as it opened, and within minutes the place was filled up.
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