Portugal at last!

Old May 8th, 2022, 06:12 AM
  #21  
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Thanks, Mel, I hope so, too!

We’ve just arrived in Lisbon now but will make every effort to report on the other sites we visited in Sintra. I enjoyed the town but am happy to be in a vibrant place that is not solely focused on tourism.

Just a taste of the view from our apartment window:


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Old May 8th, 2022, 06:42 AM
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Oh progol, I’m so glad you’ve arrived and are having such a wonderful time! Your photos are fabulous - you’ve very good at framing them. The view from your apartment is wonderful. I agree, don’t know how you’re able to post and chew gum at the same time. 🤪

and the photo of St John the Baptist stopped me in my tracks. Oh my.
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Old May 8th, 2022, 08:18 AM
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Wonderful photos of Pena, progol. Even though you didn't arrive at the hour you had planned, you were still able to capture its essence. Thanks for sharing your photos and experience with us while on the go! And glad that notorious Sintra morning fog lifted for you just in time!

We bypassed passport control as you did, coming into LIS on a flight from Madrid (Schengen), and no covid-19 test report to hand to anyone.
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Old May 8th, 2022, 12:34 PM
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Thanks, Iwan2go and Maribel!

Iwan2go - I love your photos, too, and want the new iPhone now! The sharpness is remarkable in your pix. And you have a wonderful eye, too😉 My iPhone 11 seems so yesterday! I smiled when I saw that you, too, escaped the crowds in the Pena Palace!

Maribel, thanks for the kind words about Pena - it is startling to see but we were soo happy to get outside! Just like Iwan2go!

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Old May 8th, 2022, 12:41 PM
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After the flamboyant Peña Palace, we walked down, down, down, through the lovely park grounds, and then up, up, up to the Moorish Castle, a thousand year old castle, now in ruins, yet the walls and the stairs still are in remarkable shape. We loved this place and the views, including one of the Peña palace, were fabulous.



View of the Moorish castle from Pena Palace








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Old May 8th, 2022, 02:44 PM
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Progol- SIntra is such a great spot to get over jet lag. Glad to see you're having great weather and a fun time.
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Old May 8th, 2022, 04:14 PM
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progol,
You and your husband are good climbers!

Just.a note for others Sintra bound (xyz, Alice9) about the Scotturb buses-
They're heavily promoting that €11.50, 24-hour combo bus ticket (reduced this year from €15.20) that includes rides on all 3 Scotturb buses:
the 434 one-directional ("Circuito de Pena") that goes to Moorish Castle and Pena then back to Sintra Vila
the 435 ("Villa 4 Palácios") that goes to National Palace, Regaleira, Palácio de Setais (Tivoli hotel) and Monserrate
the 403 that goes along the coast from Sintra to Cabo da Roca to Cascais (one hour trip).
We didn't purchase the 3-bus combo because it was way too much to accomplish in 1 day. We saw signs for this "discounted" combo bus ticket everywhere.

We just went to the Scotturb office across from the rail station and purchased the €5 ticket for the 435 to Regaleira/Monserrate. We could have purchased it on the bus-- that's why the bus is so slow, with every passenger purchasing on it and not having the proper change.

I believe that we could have also purchased the €7 ticket for the 434 Circuito de Pena there, as well as on the 434 bus.
But Scotturb hopes you'll shell out the €11.50/p for all 3, which most visitors don't have time to use in 24 hours. Hard sell and a bit tricky/confusing.

Now, progol, on to Lisbon!!

Last edited by Maribel; May 8th, 2022 at 04:21 PM.
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Old May 8th, 2022, 04:37 PM
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Progol, how was the walk at the Moorish castle? Would you define it as strenuous, difficult? Views and scenery are gorgeous!!!! I love visiting ruins!
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Old May 8th, 2022, 08:30 PM
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Maribel and KarenWoo,
We are definitely not great walkers, just persistent! And so far, Portugal is testing the limits of my stamina!

Maribel, interesting to know that they do offer varied rates for the buses in Sintra, though truthfully, with the numbers of people getting on the buses to Pena, we were just as glad not to take a bus. The tuk-tuk and driver worked really well for us and it was a fun ride up!

KarenWoo, climbing to the top of the Moorish castle was a workout but I just went at a slow pace. We had met a lovely young couple on our walk, so we had enjoyable company on the way. That makes it manageable, at least.

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Old May 8th, 2022, 08:58 PM
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Saturday, May 7

Sintra is truly a fantasyland with its many over the top palaces and other buildings. Today, we started out at the fanciful Quinta da Regaleira, an extravaganza designed by an Italian opera set designer. After discussion with Filippa, we decided to walk to Regaleira, a relatively short walk from Sintra. But oh, those hills! The last little bit before we arrived at the villa nearly done me in! Entry was busy but not too bad, even though we arrived around 10:30 or later, and we proceeded to the most popular site, the Initiation Well.

Quinta da Regaleira is without a doubt a set piece, with outlandish follies spread throughout the large parkland, including the very popular Initiation Well descending down, opening into underground grottoes. It didn’t take more than 10 minutes to enter the well, so the lines moved along at a reasonable pace, but when we entered, I could see why it took any time at all to enter. The well is very busy, with people stopping and taking photos and slowing the line of people descending, as it is too narrow to pass the people in front of you - though occasionally, I was probably less than polite and just said to heck with that! After we left (escaped!) the well, we enter into a series of grottoes, leading to a small waterfall and series of small lakes. We continued to wander the grounds, stopping at the various follies, and moved in to the small chapel and the villa. The site has associations with the Knights of Templar and these symbols are seen throughout the site.



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Old May 8th, 2022, 09:03 PM
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The view from near the Villa




Last edited by progol; May 8th, 2022 at 09:06 PM.
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Old May 8th, 2022, 09:45 PM
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After leaving Quinta da Regaleira, we moved on to the next and final stop in our formal exploration of Sintra: Monserrate. So, at last, my Uber app, now updated, comes in handy! A mere 12 minutes later, our ride pulls up and we have a comfortable ride to our destination.

Monserrate is the place that stole our hearts in Sintra. Just a bit further out of town, and not nearly as busy, this is a lush and beautiful palace, a 19th century romantic folly of the Englishman, Sir Frances Cook. It’s described as a “whimsical Moorish-Gothic-Indian palacio” set into a large park filled with wild gardens and a very manicured law in front of the house. We loved this place with its harmonious design and rich details. We also enjoyed a break at the cafe before leaving.

Returning to Sintra was, at first, a bit of a challenge. By the time we were finished and ready to return to Sintra, there were numerous pairs of people doing the same. Uber offered rides hat were at least 30 minutes away - no, that didn’t seem promising. But lo and behold, there was a bus sitting there, waiting for passengers! After confirming that it was, indeed, the bus back to Sintra, we paid the $€6.90 for the 2 of us to return! And the ride back, through the hills surrounding Sintra, were a delight.
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Old May 8th, 2022, 09:53 PM
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Monserrate, a gem






















The lawn in front of the house




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Old May 9th, 2022, 04:08 AM
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Wow!!! Monserrate is gorgeous!!!! Love the hallways with the pinkish columns!! Your photos are beautiful.

Quinta looks amazing, too!!!
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Old May 9th, 2022, 06:07 AM
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Beautiful. I am aware of the Moorish influence throughout Iberia, but Monserrate looks like it would not be out of place in Fez or in Marrakesh.
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Old May 9th, 2022, 06:18 AM
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Love your photos! Looks like I won't try for the Moorish castle, the weather kept me away when I was in Sintra before, and I doubt my knees would make it now. Ditto for the well. However, I didn't get to Monserrate either, and I will definitely put that on the list. Looking forward to more on one of my favorite countries.
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Old May 9th, 2022, 08:04 AM
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KarenWoo, tripplanner,thursdaysd, thank you! I’m glad you’re enjoying the photos!

Monserrate and the National Palace were our favorite sites though I do understand why people enjoy the Quinta da Regaleira a lot. After touring the main sites, we loved the serenity of Monserrate. It’s very calming to be inside this harmonious space. While I appreciate the idea of Regaleira, it didn’t really move us. But we felt deeply touched by Monserrate.

And I appreciate the challenges of the walking! I’m definitely struggling with some of the uphills, though I do better with stairs than gradual or steep inclines. Lisbon is a challenge! Even with the elevators, there’s no avoiding uphills here!
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Old May 9th, 2022, 08:11 AM
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Your photos, once again, are beautiful, progol.
Your description of Monserrate is beautiful as well.
It stole our hearts as well, and so very serene.
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Old May 9th, 2022, 12:26 PM
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Following your trip report and loving all of the photos.
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Old May 9th, 2022, 01:24 PM
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Thank you for your kind words, Maribel - I’m pleased that you’re enjoying the photos, especially of Monserrate. I knew you would! 😉

paqngo, thank you!
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