Portugal - Pictures and Trip Report
Jul 25th, 2007, 06:11 PM
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Portugal - Pictures and Trip Report
We returned from our first trip to Portugal two weeks ago. We had gorgeous weather, people were nice and friendly, food was good, drinks were the best! It sounds crazy, but I loved the taste of the water; coffee, wine (DH liked Alentejo wines better than others), port and ginjinha – all were great.
Some of the pictures are now available at http://www.flickr.com/photos/10107467@N02/sets/
Lisboa – 3 nights at the Lisbon Marriott Hotel – booked directly from Marriott.com advanced internet rate - 93E/first night and 118 E for the last two (these rates do not include breakfast).
Day 1: Our room was ready when we arrived and after late breakfast we took a cab to go to Belem Tower (8E).
We toured the beautiful Belem Tower, the Monument to the Discoveries, Monastery of Jeronimos, stopped for pastries at Casa Pasteis de Belem and visited the Coach Museum. We took tram 15 from Belem to Praca do Comercio and strolled the streets of Baixa.
We had dinner at Alfaia restaurant at Bairro Alto. We ordered lamb for DH, rabbit for me and two glasses of wine. We were offered and decided to try white port as aperitif, left the covers (olives, bread & butter and cheese) and were brought the bottled water. The total bill was 55 E, while the total for our entrées and wine was 28 E. The food was good.
Day 2: Sintra
On arrival we stopped at the Tourist information office at the train station where we got a map and all the info we needed just in time to catch the next bus #434. We went directly to the Pena Palace. This is one of a kind place with fantastic views. After quick lunch we toured the National Palace, it’s an interesting palace, but we just did not fall in love with it.
Next we visited Quinta da Regaleira with its amazing gardens. We walked wide and tiny paths, climbed the grottos and had a grand time. It has such fun and interesting grounds to explore with kids!
My guide book describes another mansion near Quinta da Regaleira – now luxury Seteais Palace Hotel. We hoped to take a peak, but only hotel or restaurant guests were allowed to go inside. Restaurant was closed till the dinner at 7:30pm so we just saw the lobby. You can see the Pena Palace far on the top of the hill from the hotel grounds. We asked the receptionist to call us a taxi to go to Palacio de Monserrate, but he told us that Monserrate was not too far – only 2 km (1.25 miles) easy walk from the hotel. It was around 27C and we started to feel it almost immediately; it turned out to be a very long walk which took us more than 30 min. Finally we saw the sign and then the entrance. As we were buying our tickets we asked the lady cashier how to get back to Lisbon. Against my hopes there were not too many options, not a train station, or bus. The tourist tram comes from Sintra sometimes, it also stops by the National Palace, but not at this hour. Luckily, the lady was taking someone to the Sintra train station in an hour. She kindly offered us a ride if we return on time. My spirit was instantly lifted. Palacio de Monserrate is currently under renovation and only the grounds can be visited. There is a number of rare trees from different parts of the world. The Palace looks absolutely magnificent. I love the pictures we took there.
I wish we had more time in Sintra.
That evening we had dinner at the Marriott. DH had a buffet dinner and I ordered grilled bass (40 E). The dinner was just OK.
Some of the pictures are now available at http://www.flickr.com/photos/10107467@N02/sets/
Lisboa – 3 nights at the Lisbon Marriott Hotel – booked directly from Marriott.com advanced internet rate - 93E/first night and 118 E for the last two (these rates do not include breakfast).
Day 1: Our room was ready when we arrived and after late breakfast we took a cab to go to Belem Tower (8E).
We toured the beautiful Belem Tower, the Monument to the Discoveries, Monastery of Jeronimos, stopped for pastries at Casa Pasteis de Belem and visited the Coach Museum. We took tram 15 from Belem to Praca do Comercio and strolled the streets of Baixa.
We had dinner at Alfaia restaurant at Bairro Alto. We ordered lamb for DH, rabbit for me and two glasses of wine. We were offered and decided to try white port as aperitif, left the covers (olives, bread & butter and cheese) and were brought the bottled water. The total bill was 55 E, while the total for our entrées and wine was 28 E. The food was good.
Day 2: Sintra
On arrival we stopped at the Tourist information office at the train station where we got a map and all the info we needed just in time to catch the next bus #434. We went directly to the Pena Palace. This is one of a kind place with fantastic views. After quick lunch we toured the National Palace, it’s an interesting palace, but we just did not fall in love with it.
Next we visited Quinta da Regaleira with its amazing gardens. We walked wide and tiny paths, climbed the grottos and had a grand time. It has such fun and interesting grounds to explore with kids!
My guide book describes another mansion near Quinta da Regaleira – now luxury Seteais Palace Hotel. We hoped to take a peak, but only hotel or restaurant guests were allowed to go inside. Restaurant was closed till the dinner at 7:30pm so we just saw the lobby. You can see the Pena Palace far on the top of the hill from the hotel grounds. We asked the receptionist to call us a taxi to go to Palacio de Monserrate, but he told us that Monserrate was not too far – only 2 km (1.25 miles) easy walk from the hotel. It was around 27C and we started to feel it almost immediately; it turned out to be a very long walk which took us more than 30 min. Finally we saw the sign and then the entrance. As we were buying our tickets we asked the lady cashier how to get back to Lisbon. Against my hopes there were not too many options, not a train station, or bus. The tourist tram comes from Sintra sometimes, it also stops by the National Palace, but not at this hour. Luckily, the lady was taking someone to the Sintra train station in an hour. She kindly offered us a ride if we return on time. My spirit was instantly lifted. Palacio de Monserrate is currently under renovation and only the grounds can be visited. There is a number of rare trees from different parts of the world. The Palace looks absolutely magnificent. I love the pictures we took there.
I wish we had more time in Sintra.
That evening we had dinner at the Marriott. DH had a buffet dinner and I ordered grilled bass (40 E). The dinner was just OK.
Jul 26th, 2007, 02:02 AM
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Beautiful Pictures.
I'm glad to see you were able to get to Arraiolos. The chappel is something to remember.
I wish to congratulate you by the perfect spelling of the Portuguese names labeling the pictures. It might be seen as a minor thing, but it's not IMHO.
I'm glad to see you were able to get to Arraiolos. The chappel is something to remember.
I wish to congratulate you by the perfect spelling of the Portuguese names labeling the pictures. It might be seen as a minor thing, but it's not IMHO.
Jul 26th, 2007, 02:52 PM
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Hi travfirst,
How did you guys get from Lisbon to Sintra? I saw your photo of the Rossio station. I read that the station is currently closed for renovations, to catch trips to Sintra. I will be travelling there with my brood of 5 during the Christmas holiday and wanted to know if it's difficult to get to Sintra.BTW, loved all your photos and look forward to seeing them for myself.
How did you guys get from Lisbon to Sintra? I saw your photo of the Rossio station. I read that the station is currently closed for renovations, to catch trips to Sintra. I will be travelling there with my brood of 5 during the Christmas holiday and wanted to know if it's difficult to get to Sintra.BTW, loved all your photos and look forward to seeing them for myself.
Jul 26th, 2007, 05:23 PM
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Thank you all for your comments.
Krimom, Rossio station is still closed. We took direct train from the Sete-Rios station to Sintra (35 min ride 1.60 E pp each way). You can take metro to the Jardim Zoologico station or taxi to Sete-Rios may be cheaper if you all can squeeze in one car.
Krimom, Rossio station is still closed. We took direct train from the Sete-Rios station to Sintra (35 min ride 1.60 E pp each way). You can take metro to the Jardim Zoologico station or taxi to Sete-Rios may be cheaper if you all can squeeze in one car.
Jul 26th, 2007, 05:47 PM
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travfirst,
great photos! I love to look back on our trip last summer so I can dream about my next trip back one day.
Niki,
what- you get to go back already? How do you do it? I'm so jealous, but not enough that I won't wish you a safe and wonderful trip!
Hi Sher & Lobo!
Ok, not to forget you travfirst,can't wait to hear more.
great photos! I love to look back on our trip last summer so I can dream about my next trip back one day.
Niki,
what- you get to go back already? How do you do it? I'm so jealous, but not enough that I won't wish you a safe and wonderful trip!
Hi Sher & Lobo!
Ok, not to forget you travfirst,can't wait to hear more.
Jul 26th, 2007, 05:51 PM
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Travfirst-Great photos! I'm looking forward to reading the rest of your trip report. What did you think of the Marriott? Other reviews that I read indicated that facility was nice, but not centrally located. I saw that you took a cab to Belem. Were you able to take public transport elsewhere in Lisbon? We're only spending two nights in Lisbon and I'm concerned about whether we should stay in a more central location.
Jul 26th, 2007, 07:39 PM
#11
Sher, thanks for the good wishes and I'll be sure to say hello to everyone. In fact, it looks like I can do it right here. Hello everyone, from Sher.
Namaka, yes, going back already. My husband couldn't travel with me last summer when I went to Lisbon and he liked the pictures, so we decided to start our trip traveling for a week starting in Lisbon before our two week house exchange in the south of France.
And yes, I feel very lucky.
Namaka, yes, going back already. My husband couldn't travel with me last summer when I went to Lisbon and he liked the pictures, so we decided to start our trip traveling for a week starting in Lisbon before our two week house exchange in the south of France.
And yes, I feel very lucky.
Jul 26th, 2007, 07:50 PM
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Day 3: Lisboa
We started the day with a visit to Gulbenkian Museum. The galleries are well organized by cultures and periods. I especially liked eastern Islamic tiles and manuscripts collection. Next we strolled to Parque Eduardo VII and eventually made our way to Elevador de Santa Justa. It was pretty crowded at the top but it was worth it – the views of Lisbon from above are absolutely splendid. We found a place for lunch in Baixa and then went to Alfama. We stopped at the Cathedral (Se) and afterwards took Tram 28 up to the Castelo de Sao Jorge. We toured the Castelo, walked the streets of Santa Cruz, and even got lost at one point. Tired from walking we decided to take tram 28 and make a circle, but boarded tram 28E by mistake for a much longer trip (E apparently stands for “Extended” but we never found out for sure).
That evening we met with Lobo and Loba for mini LDC, grilled sardines and sangria. That was followed by more food, sangria, wonderful desserts and lovely music at a Fado Club in Bairro Alto. We had fabulous time.
For some of LDC pictures http://www.flickr.com/photos/1010746...7600840757721/
Day 4: Arraiolos and Evora
Car: We made car booking through www.economycarrentals.com (highly recommend). They deliver cars to the hotels and pick them up at the end, and include an additional driver and CDW at no extra charge. The rates were among the most competitive we’ve seen, and the service was great. We got Peugeot 206 (manual transmission) which was fairly small and easy to maneuver on Portuguese streets.
Out tour through Alentejo began in Arraiolos. We first went to a pousada (a bit outside of town), parked our car and just went in. We wondered around for a while, admiring the rooms in common areas, the inner courtyard with orange trees, and the chapel that had its walls completely covered with azulejos. After that we drove into town, parked in the center and walked through the streets that were smartly covered with cloth canopies to keep the sun out. We stopped by a few small shops and watched the owners working on the tapestries.
Next stop – Evora. We booked a room at Hotel da Cartuxa (used Booking.com, 85 Euro).
It was OK, but we expected more from a four-star hotel. Our room was on the second floor and we had a nice view of Evora from the small balcony.
We started our visit at Capela dos Ossos (the Bone Chapel) which was an interesting and somewhat strange place. Above the door there’s a sign that says “waiting for your bones to join ours”.
Afterwards we strolled around the town, visiting all the usual touristy places. I enjoyed sitting in a shade in a small park with the view on Templo Romano. Finally we visited the university. It was of course empty for the summer, and it was interesting to look into the rooms and just walk around.
Before dinner we decided to visit Jardim Publico. It turned out to be nice and well-kept, and they had a small dog show of Rafeiro do Alentejo (a local variety of mastiff). Loud sounds of music were coming from nearby, and decided to follow them. That turned out to be the highlight of the evening! There were make-shift restaurants and beer stands everywhere, music, flea market, and a ton of local crafts. It appeared as if all of Evora (and perhaps surrounding towns) gathered there for a large feast to celebrate Saint Peter’s day.
We looked around for a while, and since the food appeared to be similar everywhere we chose the busiest restaurant assuming they had the best quality. The food was simple yet very tasty, local red wines were great, although some ordering was done by pointing fingers at neighbors’ plates. We really felt our lack of Portuguese there. The wine “hit” me more than I suspected and I went on a shopping spree for souvenirs. The prices were great, everyone bargained. Later we saw similar items in more touristy places for twice as much. I bought a few souvenirs including a large ceramic cat for my mom, and for the rest of the trip I kept wondering what she’d do with it. We both had an excellent evening!
We started the day with a visit to Gulbenkian Museum. The galleries are well organized by cultures and periods. I especially liked eastern Islamic tiles and manuscripts collection. Next we strolled to Parque Eduardo VII and eventually made our way to Elevador de Santa Justa. It was pretty crowded at the top but it was worth it – the views of Lisbon from above are absolutely splendid. We found a place for lunch in Baixa and then went to Alfama. We stopped at the Cathedral (Se) and afterwards took Tram 28 up to the Castelo de Sao Jorge. We toured the Castelo, walked the streets of Santa Cruz, and even got lost at one point. Tired from walking we decided to take tram 28 and make a circle, but boarded tram 28E by mistake for a much longer trip (E apparently stands for “Extended” but we never found out for sure).
That evening we met with Lobo and Loba for mini LDC, grilled sardines and sangria. That was followed by more food, sangria, wonderful desserts and lovely music at a Fado Club in Bairro Alto. We had fabulous time.
For some of LDC pictures http://www.flickr.com/photos/1010746...7600840757721/
Day 4: Arraiolos and Evora
Car: We made car booking through www.economycarrentals.com (highly recommend). They deliver cars to the hotels and pick them up at the end, and include an additional driver and CDW at no extra charge. The rates were among the most competitive we’ve seen, and the service was great. We got Peugeot 206 (manual transmission) which was fairly small and easy to maneuver on Portuguese streets.
Out tour through Alentejo began in Arraiolos. We first went to a pousada (a bit outside of town), parked our car and just went in. We wondered around for a while, admiring the rooms in common areas, the inner courtyard with orange trees, and the chapel that had its walls completely covered with azulejos. After that we drove into town, parked in the center and walked through the streets that were smartly covered with cloth canopies to keep the sun out. We stopped by a few small shops and watched the owners working on the tapestries.
Next stop – Evora. We booked a room at Hotel da Cartuxa (used Booking.com, 85 Euro).
It was OK, but we expected more from a four-star hotel. Our room was on the second floor and we had a nice view of Evora from the small balcony.
We started our visit at Capela dos Ossos (the Bone Chapel) which was an interesting and somewhat strange place. Above the door there’s a sign that says “waiting for your bones to join ours”.
Afterwards we strolled around the town, visiting all the usual touristy places. I enjoyed sitting in a shade in a small park with the view on Templo Romano. Finally we visited the university. It was of course empty for the summer, and it was interesting to look into the rooms and just walk around.Before dinner we decided to visit Jardim Publico. It turned out to be nice and well-kept, and they had a small dog show of Rafeiro do Alentejo (a local variety of mastiff). Loud sounds of music were coming from nearby, and decided to follow them. That turned out to be the highlight of the evening! There were make-shift restaurants and beer stands everywhere, music, flea market, and a ton of local crafts. It appeared as if all of Evora (and perhaps surrounding towns) gathered there for a large feast to celebrate Saint Peter’s day.
We looked around for a while, and since the food appeared to be similar everywhere we chose the busiest restaurant assuming they had the best quality. The food was simple yet very tasty, local red wines were great, although some ordering was done by pointing fingers at neighbors’ plates.
We really felt our lack of Portuguese there. The wine “hit” me more than I suspected and I went on a shopping spree for souvenirs. The prices were great, everyone bargained. Later we saw similar items in more touristy places for twice as much. I bought a few souvenirs including a large ceramic cat for my mom, and for the rest of the trip I kept wondering what she’d do with it. We both had an excellent evening!
Jul 26th, 2007, 07:57 PM
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stillhouse, we liked the Marriott. It was a regular 4-star hotel with all the amenities and friendly and trained staff. The location worked great for us because it was only 10 min walking to Sete-Rios station for a train to Sintra, and to metro. We took a taxi to Belem and back from Bairro Alto in the evening. Taxis in Lisbon are not very expensive and save time.
Jul 26th, 2007, 11:27 PM
#14
Does the Elevador de Santa Justa connect at the top to street level or can it only be accessed from the bottom?
Do you remember the name of the fado club you visited in Bairro Alto? Would you recommend it?
Do you remember the name of the fado club you visited in Bairro Alto? Would you recommend it?
Jul 29th, 2007, 06:57 PM
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Nikki, the Elevador de Santa Justa can be accessed at the top, but we took it up and down.
The name of the fado club is Caldo Verde, and we highly recommend it. It’s open every day from 8 pm to 3:30 am. I would suggest making an advanced reservation 213-422-091. Try their caldo verde – the most famous soup in Portugal made with the kale, potato and smoked sausage. I ordered it a number of times during our trip, but the one in that fado club was the best.
The name of the fado club is Caldo Verde, and we highly recommend it. It’s open every day from 8 pm to 3:30 am. I would suggest making an advanced reservation 213-422-091. Try their caldo verde – the most famous soup in Portugal made with the kale, potato and smoked sausage. I ordered it a number of times during our trip, but the one in that fado club was the best.
Jul 29th, 2007, 07:48 PM
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I added the remaining photos to the new album at http://www.flickr.com/photos/10107467@N02/sets/. Enjoy!
Jul 30th, 2007, 04:24 AM
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Nikki
You are invited for a caldo verde soup in Caldo Verde. Their camel spit, sawdust and rice pudding are among the very best we have had.
I believe it's just propaganda the claim that they are opended up to 3.30 am, since by 1.30 am they start kindly inviting clients to leave.
I have read reports ranging from very good to vary bad about CV. I respect every opinions of course, but IMHO it's a very unpretentious, frendly and relaxed place to go.
You are invited for a caldo verde soup in Caldo Verde. Their camel spit, sawdust and rice pudding are among the very best we have had.
I believe it's just propaganda the claim that they are opended up to 3.30 am, since by 1.30 am they start kindly inviting clients to leave.
I have read reports ranging from very good to vary bad about CV. I respect every opinions of course, but IMHO it's a very unpretentious, frendly and relaxed place to go.
