Please Review: Provence day trips from Aix-en-Provence
Feb 3rd, 2012, 07:59 PM
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Please Review: Provence day trips from Aix-en-Provence
I would like some day-trip advice and (if possible) specific driving routes for an upcoming trip to Aix-en-Provence. We will have 3 full days (Thursday, Friday, Saturday) in mid/late July.
My concern is that the proposed driving itinerary is too exhausting. Since we are arriving Wednesday evening and Thursday is our first full day, I am thinking of passing up a potential afternoon drive (Thur) and spend the entire day getting familiar with Aix-en-Provence while also taking advantage of the Thursday Market. Or would you suggest an afternoon drive?
ITINERARY
Thursday = Market Day. Enjoy Aix and lay by the hotel pool (Aquabella).
Friday = Day Trip #1 - Luberon
Saturday = Day Trip #2 - Western region of Provence
DETAILS/QUESTIONS- DAY TRIP #1
Bonnieux
Gordes
Roussillon
Apt
Lourmarin
A) Here are the places I would like to visit on Friday. Are there any Friday markets that you would suggest? I've listed 5 villages that I think would work well together for a day trip. Do you think this is too many? Any other suggestions?
B) Is this reasonable?
C) Where is my best bet for lunch?
QUESTIONS/THOUGHTS - DAY TRIP #2
St. Remy de Provence
Les Baux
Pont du Gard
Arles
A) Looking at the map, this day trip is much more travel intensive. Is it unrealistic? Too much driving?
B) If not, what would be your plan of attack? Start towards St. Remy and finish with Arles? or vice-versa?
C) Lunch suggestions? Saturday Market recommendations?
Thanks,
Justin
My concern is that the proposed driving itinerary is too exhausting. Since we are arriving Wednesday evening and Thursday is our first full day, I am thinking of passing up a potential afternoon drive (Thur) and spend the entire day getting familiar with Aix-en-Provence while also taking advantage of the Thursday Market. Or would you suggest an afternoon drive?
ITINERARY
Thursday = Market Day. Enjoy Aix and lay by the hotel pool (Aquabella).
Friday = Day Trip #1 - Luberon
Saturday = Day Trip #2 - Western region of Provence
DETAILS/QUESTIONS- DAY TRIP #1
Bonnieux
Gordes
Roussillon
Apt
Lourmarin
A) Here are the places I would like to visit on Friday. Are there any Friday markets that you would suggest? I've listed 5 villages that I think would work well together for a day trip. Do you think this is too many? Any other suggestions?
B) Is this reasonable?
C) Where is my best bet for lunch?
QUESTIONS/THOUGHTS - DAY TRIP #2
St. Remy de Provence
Les Baux
Pont du Gard
Arles
A) Looking at the map, this day trip is much more travel intensive. Is it unrealistic? Too much driving?
B) If not, what would be your plan of attack? Start towards St. Remy and finish with Arles? or vice-versa?
C) Lunch suggestions? Saturday Market recommendations?
Thanks,
Justin
Feb 3rd, 2012, 08:24 PM
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I think the Thursday market in Aix will satisfy your market needs.
Friday seems OK. These villages are close to each other, so if you run out of time before you see them all - then that's fine & you really have not wasted much driving time. IMO, the scenic countryside between these villages is just as rewarding as the villages themselves. If I had to drop one of these villages, it would be Apt.
Sat - I don't think you will have enough time to visit all these places - especially on a Sat in mid/late July. St Remy & Les Baux can get a little too infested with day-trippers mid-day - which is when you will probably be there. I would probably hit St Remy as early in the morning as possible, have lunch there, then visit the Pont mid-day, and Les Baux or Arles in the later afternoon. You could substitute Arles for St Remy in the morning if you like.
Stu Dudley
Friday seems OK. These villages are close to each other, so if you run out of time before you see them all - then that's fine & you really have not wasted much driving time. IMO, the scenic countryside between these villages is just as rewarding as the villages themselves. If I had to drop one of these villages, it would be Apt.
Sat - I don't think you will have enough time to visit all these places - especially on a Sat in mid/late July. St Remy & Les Baux can get a little too infested with day-trippers mid-day - which is when you will probably be there. I would probably hit St Remy as early in the morning as possible, have lunch there, then visit the Pont mid-day, and Les Baux or Arles in the later afternoon. You could substitute Arles for St Remy in the morning if you like.
Stu Dudley
Feb 3rd, 2012, 10:14 PM
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If you love food, don't miss the market in Aix. It's fantastic. They also sell clothes etc but food was the highlight for us. We particularly liked L'Isle sur la Sorgue and the market there, it's a very pretty town. We had lunch by the river, surrounded by market stalls.
St Remy and Les Baux were also interesting but we were glad we got to Les Baux early as parking was pretty limited.
I think you've got too much packed into each day, unless you just want to drive through some of the villages and take a look. You wouldn't have time to explore them all.
A tip if you go to Roussillon, park outside the town. We drove into it, got swiftly re-directed by a parking officer and had to turn around and head back to the large car park we had just driven past. There were also public toilets next to the car park, a (welcome) rarity in that part of the world.
Kay
St Remy and Les Baux were also interesting but we were glad we got to Les Baux early as parking was pretty limited.
I think you've got too much packed into each day, unless you just want to drive through some of the villages and take a look. You wouldn't have time to explore them all.
A tip if you go to Roussillon, park outside the town. We drove into it, got swiftly re-directed by a parking officer and had to turn around and head back to the large car park we had just driven past. There were also public toilets next to the car park, a (welcome) rarity in that part of the world.
Kay
Feb 4th, 2012, 12:55 AM
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Jpopp -
I think your Thursday is perfect and once you've done the market in Aix, as Stu says, you might not want to get too hung up on seeing another market. Keep in mind that mid July is very high season and markets turn into veritable zoos - seriously crowded and bakingly hot. I bet you'll find one is more than enough !
For similar reasons, be careful about trying to do too many touristy villages. Here's a different idea for your Luberon day:
From Aix, head right past Lourmarin (there will be a market Friday morning and the village gets completely overrun - hit it on your way back). On your way through the Luberon mountains, take a detour towards the village of Buoux (a little hidden gem). If you don't mind short walks, check out the Fort nearby. Ruins as stunning as Les Baux, IMO, without the tourist hordes. From there head to Saignon, again a little gem of a village. Advantage to this route is that you should still see lots of lavender in bloom along the way.
From there, you can hit Roussillon - perhaps have lunch if you got an early enough start on your day. Yes, it's going to be jammed, but this one is truly worth it. At this stage, I'd probably head back and save Gordes and other villages north of the Luberon for another time.
On your drive back, check out Bonnieux for the view from outside the village and then on to Lourmarin, which should by then be much quieter and pleasant. If you have the time, Cucuron and Ansouis are two absolutely lovely villages just nearby. Cucuron, especially has a little "etang" surrounded by cafés where you will certainly be happy to have a pastis or two after all of that !
Concerning your second day: you have too much on your plate. Skip Les Baux and St. Remy - the former is a total zoo in the summer. You couldn't pay me enough to do it. The latter will also be crowded and pales in comparison to Aix, so no particular reason to check it out.
Instead maybe the following:
From Aix, head straight to the little town of Uzès. Great place to visit and quite different from other places you'd have seen. By mid-day, head for the Pont du Gard with your bathing suit and take a swim with some the Aqueduct as your backdrop. Then Arles for the afternoon on the way back home. It'll be less crowded, less hot and much more pleasant late afternoon and early evening. Once again, totally different feel from elsewhere.
-Kevin
I think your Thursday is perfect and once you've done the market in Aix, as Stu says, you might not want to get too hung up on seeing another market. Keep in mind that mid July is very high season and markets turn into veritable zoos - seriously crowded and bakingly hot. I bet you'll find one is more than enough !
For similar reasons, be careful about trying to do too many touristy villages. Here's a different idea for your Luberon day:
From Aix, head right past Lourmarin (there will be a market Friday morning and the village gets completely overrun - hit it on your way back). On your way through the Luberon mountains, take a detour towards the village of Buoux (a little hidden gem). If you don't mind short walks, check out the Fort nearby. Ruins as stunning as Les Baux, IMO, without the tourist hordes. From there head to Saignon, again a little gem of a village. Advantage to this route is that you should still see lots of lavender in bloom along the way.
From there, you can hit Roussillon - perhaps have lunch if you got an early enough start on your day. Yes, it's going to be jammed, but this one is truly worth it. At this stage, I'd probably head back and save Gordes and other villages north of the Luberon for another time.
On your drive back, check out Bonnieux for the view from outside the village and then on to Lourmarin, which should by then be much quieter and pleasant. If you have the time, Cucuron and Ansouis are two absolutely lovely villages just nearby. Cucuron, especially has a little "etang" surrounded by cafés where you will certainly be happy to have a pastis or two after all of that !
Concerning your second day: you have too much on your plate. Skip Les Baux and St. Remy - the former is a total zoo in the summer. You couldn't pay me enough to do it. The latter will also be crowded and pales in comparison to Aix, so no particular reason to check it out.
Instead maybe the following:
From Aix, head straight to the little town of Uzès. Great place to visit and quite different from other places you'd have seen. By mid-day, head for the Pont du Gard with your bathing suit and take a swim with some the Aqueduct as your backdrop. Then Arles for the afternoon on the way back home. It'll be less crowded, less hot and much more pleasant late afternoon and early evening. Once again, totally different feel from elsewhere.
-Kevin
Feb 4th, 2012, 06:58 AM
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I agree with Kevin - after Aix, St Remy might be quite disappointing.
Last time we were in Les Baux, we visited it as soon as it opened in the morning, and then again just before it closed in the evening. This was in very early July of '09. It was crowded then. If Kevin says he would not go there in mid July - I wouldn't either. He lives in the Luberon in Provence & owns a lovely B&B.
Stu Dudley.
Last time we were in Les Baux, we visited it as soon as it opened in the morning, and then again just before it closed in the evening. This was in very early July of '09. It was crowded then. If Kevin says he would not go there in mid July - I wouldn't either. He lives in the Luberon in Provence & owns a lovely B&B.
Stu Dudley.
Feb 4th, 2012, 08:03 AM
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Further comments:
Like Kevin mentioned, Uzes is a gem of a town. The central Place Aux Herbes is wonderful - surrounded by arcaded buildings on the perimeter of the Place. Great shopping too. We prefer it over St Remy. We stayed in a gite near Uzes for 2 weeks a few years ago (we've also stayed near St Remy for 2 weeks). However, if you visit Uzes - don't go on a Saturday morning - it is their market day. It will be a complete zoo in mid-July. We visited in mid June and it was way too crowded for us then. There are just too many vendors to fit into the Place aux Herbs, and the crowds & distractions from the market completely hide everything than makes Uzes enjoyable, IMO. The market is quite colorful, however. Once, we visited Uzes for a late lunch, just after the Wednesday market closed (Wed market is a smaller market). Until about 3:00pm, the Place aux Herbs was "busy" with maintenance people hosing down the entire Place aux Herbes, collecting trash, street sweepers everywhere, etc. We did not enjoy our lunch because of all these distractions. If you visit Uzes on a Saturday, I would get there after 3:30PM. Shops are closed for lunch until about then anyway.
Regarding Saignon - another of our favorites. If you swap your Saturday & Friday plans (to avoid visiting Uzes on a Sat & Lourmarin on a Friday) then that would put you in the Luberon Valley on Apt's market day - another huge market. It will not really interfere with visiting all the other villages - except perhaps Saignon. We tried to visit Saignon on Apt's market day. Traffic to/from Saignon was quite heavy and access to Saignon was very difficult. You actually have to drive through portions of Apt to get to Saignon. Perhaps Kevin will have comments on this, or suggest another way to get to Saignon, or even suggest that you visit it in the late afternoon after the market.
Regarding Gordes.
We've stayed in a gite very close to Gordes for 4 weeks. Our recycleables "station" was actually in the huge parking lot below Gordes - so we've visited it or driven by it perhaps 30 time for various reasons. I would give it a A+ from the outside, but rate it only as a B- from the inside. I suggest that if you are running out of time in the Luberon Valley, that you only view Gordes from the outside & skip the inside. It is perhaps the most photographed perched village in France. To view it from "the" spot, access it from the south - driving on the D2/D15 coming from Coustellet & Les Imberts - not from the east entrance to the village. You will know when you have hit "the" spot. You are not allowed to park there - but many cars will still be temporarily parked there. Jump out, take pictures, then proceed another 100 yards or so to the huge parking lot & turn around there & head back to your next destination.
Stu Dudley
Like Kevin mentioned, Uzes is a gem of a town. The central Place Aux Herbes is wonderful - surrounded by arcaded buildings on the perimeter of the Place. Great shopping too. We prefer it over St Remy. We stayed in a gite near Uzes for 2 weeks a few years ago (we've also stayed near St Remy for 2 weeks). However, if you visit Uzes - don't go on a Saturday morning - it is their market day. It will be a complete zoo in mid-July. We visited in mid June and it was way too crowded for us then. There are just too many vendors to fit into the Place aux Herbs, and the crowds & distractions from the market completely hide everything than makes Uzes enjoyable, IMO. The market is quite colorful, however. Once, we visited Uzes for a late lunch, just after the Wednesday market closed (Wed market is a smaller market). Until about 3:00pm, the Place aux Herbs was "busy" with maintenance people hosing down the entire Place aux Herbes, collecting trash, street sweepers everywhere, etc. We did not enjoy our lunch because of all these distractions. If you visit Uzes on a Saturday, I would get there after 3:30PM. Shops are closed for lunch until about then anyway.
Regarding Saignon - another of our favorites. If you swap your Saturday & Friday plans (to avoid visiting Uzes on a Sat & Lourmarin on a Friday) then that would put you in the Luberon Valley on Apt's market day - another huge market. It will not really interfere with visiting all the other villages - except perhaps Saignon. We tried to visit Saignon on Apt's market day. Traffic to/from Saignon was quite heavy and access to Saignon was very difficult. You actually have to drive through portions of Apt to get to Saignon. Perhaps Kevin will have comments on this, or suggest another way to get to Saignon, or even suggest that you visit it in the late afternoon after the market.
Regarding Gordes.
We've stayed in a gite very close to Gordes for 4 weeks. Our recycleables "station" was actually in the huge parking lot below Gordes - so we've visited it or driven by it perhaps 30 time for various reasons. I would give it a A+ from the outside, but rate it only as a B- from the inside. I suggest that if you are running out of time in the Luberon Valley, that you only view Gordes from the outside & skip the inside. It is perhaps the most photographed perched village in France. To view it from "the" spot, access it from the south - driving on the D2/D15 coming from Coustellet & Les Imberts - not from the east entrance to the village. You will know when you have hit "the" spot. You are not allowed to park there - but many cars will still be temporarily parked there. Jump out, take pictures, then proceed another 100 yards or so to the huge parking lot & turn around there & head back to your next destination.
Stu Dudley
Feb 4th, 2012, 08:26 AM
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Thanks for the feedback - It sounds like I have too many touristy villages packed in. I think my ultimate goal at this point is to collectively put together a list of villages that complement each other. Also, I was going to ask if I should switch the Friday/Saturday trips, but it looks like Stu answered that already and I think that sounds like great advice.
Luberon Day Trip (Saturday):
I know I didn’t exactly go with the advice given above (that I have too many villages listed), but what do you think about this route, only stopping/exploring at the villages marked with a (*)?
(Leave Aix by 8:00 am)
*Buoux – Short AM walk
Saignon – Drive through for the lavender. No stop.
*Roussillon – lunch/explore
*Gordes - explore/dinner
Bonnieux – No stop, just view from the car
Lourmarin – No stop, just a view from the car
What do you think - 3 Stops (Buoux, Roussillon, Gordes), & 3 drive-bys (Saignon, Bonnieux, Lourmarin)? Which is a better village to explore and eat dinner: Gordes or Bonnieux? I just read Stu’s comment on Gordes (A+ from afar, but B- for w/in), so maybe I should just enjoy the drive from Roussillon to Gordes, check out the view of Gordes from afar, and then head to Bonnieux for dinner?
Friday Day Drip:
(Leave Aix by 8:00 am)
*Opt for EITHER St. Remy or Les Baux. Either one will be a zoo, so get there very early.
*Pont du Gard - bring a swimsuit (great advice, thanks!)
*Uzes – Choose Uzes over Arles.
Head back home to Aix.
So many options – I just get stressed out not knowing which stops will be considered complementary and others more so redundant (given limited time). Thanks again for all of the itinerary suggestions.
Luberon Day Trip (Saturday):
I know I didn’t exactly go with the advice given above (that I have too many villages listed), but what do you think about this route, only stopping/exploring at the villages marked with a (*)?
(Leave Aix by 8:00 am)
*Buoux – Short AM walk
Saignon – Drive through for the lavender. No stop.
*Roussillon – lunch/explore
*Gordes - explore/dinner
Bonnieux – No stop, just view from the car
Lourmarin – No stop, just a view from the car
What do you think - 3 Stops (Buoux, Roussillon, Gordes), & 3 drive-bys (Saignon, Bonnieux, Lourmarin)? Which is a better village to explore and eat dinner: Gordes or Bonnieux? I just read Stu’s comment on Gordes (A+ from afar, but B- for w/in), so maybe I should just enjoy the drive from Roussillon to Gordes, check out the view of Gordes from afar, and then head to Bonnieux for dinner?
Friday Day Drip:
(Leave Aix by 8:00 am)
*Opt for EITHER St. Remy or Les Baux. Either one will be a zoo, so get there very early.
*Pont du Gard - bring a swimsuit (great advice, thanks!)
*Uzes – Choose Uzes over Arles.
Head back home to Aix.
So many options – I just get stressed out not knowing which stops will be considered complementary and others more so redundant (given limited time). Thanks again for all of the itinerary suggestions.
Feb 4th, 2012, 12:47 PM
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Saignon is not a "drive through" village. In fact - you can't drive through it. You must park outside the village and the walk into the village. Almost the same with Lourmarin. You can drive through it, but it is not a place you can just "see" from the distance - it is not a perched village like Bonnieux, Gordes, & to a lesser degree Roussillon.
You will have difficulty finding a place for dinner in Gordes that serves anytime before 7:00. Perhaps a pizza place or a simple cafe - but I don't recall any in Gordes (I may have missed one). Don't see how you can have dinner in Gordes, visit 2 more villages, and make it back to Aix before around midnight. Lourmarin for dinner is a much better idea. More restaurant options also. If I had to drop a place from your list, it would be Bououx - mainly to save time (you must hike up to the fort - which takes time).
Friday looks fine. I would choose Les Baux. St Remy will not fare well compared with Uzes and Aix, IMO. Les Baux is located in a geographically beautiful area.
Stu Dudley
You will have difficulty finding a place for dinner in Gordes that serves anytime before 7:00. Perhaps a pizza place or a simple cafe - but I don't recall any in Gordes (I may have missed one). Don't see how you can have dinner in Gordes, visit 2 more villages, and make it back to Aix before around midnight. Lourmarin for dinner is a much better idea. More restaurant options also. If I had to drop a place from your list, it would be Bououx - mainly to save time (you must hike up to the fort - which takes time).
Friday looks fine. I would choose Les Baux. St Remy will not fare well compared with Uzes and Aix, IMO. Les Baux is located in a geographically beautiful area.
Stu Dudley
Feb 4th, 2012, 12:55 PM
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Several years ago on a different forum, someone stated that you can't visit all the "significant" villages in the Luberon Valley in 1 day. I indicated that you could - but you may not want to. Here is a timetable that I put together - but this assumes that the "visitor" is staying in/near Gordes. No visit to Saignon or Lourmarin.
8:00 or 8:30 - Get to Gordes, pull the car over at the view "spot" & take a picture. Park the car in the lot, and visit Gordes. Have a cafe creme & croissants for breakfast at one of the outdoor cafes. Walk down to the Lavoire & back. Explore Gordes.
10:00 leave Gordes.
10:30 arrive in Oppede le Vieux & explore a bit
11:30 leave Oppede, drive to Menerbes
11:45 arrive in Menerbes & explore. Grab a sandwich for lunch & sit on a bench with a view & have lunch.
12:45 leave Menerbes
1:00 arrive in Lacoste, drive up towards the village & view Bonnieux across the valley. No visit of Lacoste. Drive to Bonnieux.
1:45 Visit Bonnieux (sandwich, if you didn't have one in Menerbes)
3:15 leave Bonnieux & head to Roussillon.
3:45 arrive in Roussillon, park the car, and explore Roussillon. Visit the Ocre fields. Have an afternoon coffee at a cafe.
5:45 Leave Roussillon. If you still have some energy left, visit Goult - otherwise, call it a day.
Stu Dudley
8:00 or 8:30 - Get to Gordes, pull the car over at the view "spot" & take a picture. Park the car in the lot, and visit Gordes. Have a cafe creme & croissants for breakfast at one of the outdoor cafes. Walk down to the Lavoire & back. Explore Gordes.
10:00 leave Gordes.
10:30 arrive in Oppede le Vieux & explore a bit
11:30 leave Oppede, drive to Menerbes
11:45 arrive in Menerbes & explore. Grab a sandwich for lunch & sit on a bench with a view & have lunch.
12:45 leave Menerbes
1:00 arrive in Lacoste, drive up towards the village & view Bonnieux across the valley. No visit of Lacoste. Drive to Bonnieux.
1:45 Visit Bonnieux (sandwich, if you didn't have one in Menerbes)
3:15 leave Bonnieux & head to Roussillon.
3:45 arrive in Roussillon, park the car, and explore Roussillon. Visit the Ocre fields. Have an afternoon coffee at a cafe.
5:45 Leave Roussillon. If you still have some energy left, visit Goult - otherwise, call it a day.
Stu Dudley
Feb 4th, 2012, 02:12 PM
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OK, so I am still trying to wrap my head around the Luberon. I am thinking I will try to take another stab at a possible route this evening and post for your comments & critique.
As far as the Friday Day Trip, I think I am getting close to the finish line. I am disappointed I will be missing Arles. On the other hand, I am slightly relieved to hear that omitting St. Remy may not be quite as difficult as I originally had thought(from a complete complementary standpoint), due to some of the similarities of Aix-en-Provence.
Proposed day trip from Aix-en-Provence:
1) Leave Aix 8am
2) Arrive early to Les Baux.
Explore and grab a casual cafe late breakfast. Leave Les Baux before the village is overwhelmed by day-trippers. Head to Pont du Gard.
3) Arrive at Pont du Gard around noon.
Since it is July, it is probably getting pretty hot about now, so perhaps a perfect time of the day to take a swim at the Pont du Gard. Leave Pont du Gard for Uzes.
4) Arrive at Uzes. What time realistically should I expect to arrive in Uzes? I am just wondering if it is more realistic to eat lunch immediately upon arriving, or explore for a while an then catch dinner upon leaving?
ADDITIONAL QUESTION:
Which village is better for an early morning visit: Lex Baux or Uzes? I would expect that the benifit of arriving early to Les Baux would be significant, however I've also heard that Les Baux is beautiful at night, especially after all of the day trippers have left.
As far as the Friday Day Trip, I think I am getting close to the finish line. I am disappointed I will be missing Arles. On the other hand, I am slightly relieved to hear that omitting St. Remy may not be quite as difficult as I originally had thought(from a complete complementary standpoint), due to some of the similarities of Aix-en-Provence.
Proposed day trip from Aix-en-Provence:
1) Leave Aix 8am
2) Arrive early to Les Baux.
Explore and grab a casual cafe late breakfast. Leave Les Baux before the village is overwhelmed by day-trippers. Head to Pont du Gard.
3) Arrive at Pont du Gard around noon.
Since it is July, it is probably getting pretty hot about now, so perhaps a perfect time of the day to take a swim at the Pont du Gard. Leave Pont du Gard for Uzes.
4) Arrive at Uzes. What time realistically should I expect to arrive in Uzes? I am just wondering if it is more realistic to eat lunch immediately upon arriving, or explore for a while an then catch dinner upon leaving?
ADDITIONAL QUESTION:
Which village is better for an early morning visit: Lex Baux or Uzes? I would expect that the benifit of arriving early to Les Baux would be significant, however I've also heard that Les Baux is beautiful at night, especially after all of the day trippers have left.
Feb 4th, 2012, 03:33 PM
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>>Arrive at Uzes. What time realistically should I expect to arrive in Uzes? I am just wondering if it is more realistic to eat lunch immediately upon arriving, or explore for a while an then catch dinner upon leaving?<<
Again - I would not expect to find any nice place to have dinner until 7:00 or later - which would get you back to Aix VERY LATE IN THE DAY - around midnight.
See how the day goes. If you arrive in Uzes before 2:30pm - have lunch there. If you arrive after 2:30 - have dinner elsewhere closer to Aix or I would opt for dinner IN Aix because there are hundreds of restaurants in Aix.
>>ADDITIONAL QUESTION:
Which village is better for an early morning visit: Lex Baux or Uzes?<<
Les Baux to avoid the crowds. You could get there super early and just wander through the village first before the tacky souvenir shops open. The village is actually quite cute. Then do the Fort as soon as the ticket office opens up - check the internet for opening times.
>>I would expect that the benifit of arriving early to Les Baux would be significant, however I've also heard that Les Baux is beautiful at night, especially after all of the day trippers have left.<<<
I would not plan any "far away" night visits on an active schedule like yours. You may run out of time late in the day. Les Baux & especially Uzes is farther away from Aix than you may think.
I would also be hesitent about having lunch at le Fournil if you have a busy schedule. Lunch won't be served until at least noon and might take at least 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Parking is a little difficult in Bonnieux also. No telling what time you'll get to Bonnieux - just have lunch wherever you are located at "lunch time". If you were to be visiting Provence for 3 weeks - plan the day around lunch. You'll only be there for 3 days - plan lunch around where you are at lunch time.
Stu Dudley
Again - I would not expect to find any nice place to have dinner until 7:00 or later - which would get you back to Aix VERY LATE IN THE DAY - around midnight.
See how the day goes. If you arrive in Uzes before 2:30pm - have lunch there. If you arrive after 2:30 - have dinner elsewhere closer to Aix or I would opt for dinner IN Aix because there are hundreds of restaurants in Aix.
>>ADDITIONAL QUESTION:
Which village is better for an early morning visit: Lex Baux or Uzes?<<
Les Baux to avoid the crowds. You could get there super early and just wander through the village first before the tacky souvenir shops open. The village is actually quite cute. Then do the Fort as soon as the ticket office opens up - check the internet for opening times.
>>I would expect that the benifit of arriving early to Les Baux would be significant, however I've also heard that Les Baux is beautiful at night, especially after all of the day trippers have left.<<<
I would not plan any "far away" night visits on an active schedule like yours. You may run out of time late in the day. Les Baux & especially Uzes is farther away from Aix than you may think.
I would also be hesitent about having lunch at le Fournil if you have a busy schedule. Lunch won't be served until at least noon and might take at least 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Parking is a little difficult in Bonnieux also. No telling what time you'll get to Bonnieux - just have lunch wherever you are located at "lunch time". If you were to be visiting Provence for 3 weeks - plan the day around lunch. You'll only be there for 3 days - plan lunch around where you are at lunch time.
Stu Dudley
Feb 4th, 2012, 03:45 PM
#14
My late husband loved driving in Provence and we thought nothing of driving from st Remy to the Var or Alpes for lunch.
there are too many places I love that we day tripped Saignon, Lourmarin Mustiers, Fontveille, Les Baux. Gordes Bonnieuxare only a few of the places we liked, We found it easy to get around. If we were in a hurry we would take the toll road to get to Cassis or Marseille
there are too many places I love that we day tripped Saignon, Lourmarin Mustiers, Fontveille, Les Baux. Gordes Bonnieuxare only a few of the places we liked, We found it easy to get around. If we were in a hurry we would take the toll road to get to Cassis or Marseille
Feb 5th, 2012, 12:04 AM
#15
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How about this one:
Friday - get a very early start from Aix and head straight to Uzès. Via Michelin says it's an hour and a half, but I'd say more like 2 once you include getting out of Aix and parking in Uzes. Anyway, this gets you to Uzes in time to enjoy a nice little breakfast on the Place des Herbes and spend the rest of the morning visiting the town.
Pick up a few picnic supplies and head to the Pont du Gard. Find yourself a nice spot along the river and kick back after a refreshing swim. After a few glasses of rosé, you'll be ready for the quintessential Provençal experience - a nice long siesta !
By the time you wake up, you'll be ready to tackle the crowds at Les Baux, which should have thinned out considerably. The advantage to Les Baux late in the day is that the sun is behind you when you look out onto the valley below. It's one of the prettiest scenes in Provence.
From there, play it by ear, as Stu says, and if you have enough energy, dinner in St. Remy or better yet, a great drive through Les Alpilles to Eygalières (beautiful little village) for dinner. Or do the drive and have dinner back in Aix.
I think that would be a great day and not totally overdoing it.
As for the Luberon, if you post here, I'll try to have a look.
Note as Stu said, if you hit Saignon on Saturday morning, it will be really tough getting through Apt with the market in full swing.
- Kevin
Friday - get a very early start from Aix and head straight to Uzès. Via Michelin says it's an hour and a half, but I'd say more like 2 once you include getting out of Aix and parking in Uzes. Anyway, this gets you to Uzes in time to enjoy a nice little breakfast on the Place des Herbes and spend the rest of the morning visiting the town.
Pick up a few picnic supplies and head to the Pont du Gard. Find yourself a nice spot along the river and kick back after a refreshing swim. After a few glasses of rosé, you'll be ready for the quintessential Provençal experience - a nice long siesta !
By the time you wake up, you'll be ready to tackle the crowds at Les Baux, which should have thinned out considerably. The advantage to Les Baux late in the day is that the sun is behind you when you look out onto the valley below. It's one of the prettiest scenes in Provence.
From there, play it by ear, as Stu says, and if you have enough energy, dinner in St. Remy or better yet, a great drive through Les Alpilles to Eygalières (beautiful little village) for dinner. Or do the drive and have dinner back in Aix.
I think that would be a great day and not totally overdoing it.
As for the Luberon, if you post here, I'll try to have a look.
Note as Stu said, if you hit Saignon on Saturday morning, it will be really tough getting through Apt with the market in full swing.
- Kevin
Feb 5th, 2012, 12:40 AM
#16
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we were based in Cavaillon and had real trouble to drive around with a GPS during the first days. We wasted a lot of time , and almost got in an accident in Aix ..... Finally, we had rent the services of a local guide and we were very happy to have her with us for a few days.
The end of our journey turned out to be the best thanks to this lady from Avignon : Marlene Boyer . She customized a whole program for us and added so much value to our stay.
www.experience-provence.eu
The end of our journey turned out to be the best thanks to this lady from Avignon : Marlene Boyer . She customized a whole program for us and added so much value to our stay.
www.experience-provence.eu
Feb 5th, 2012, 08:27 AM
#17
Kevin, for years my late husband and I stayed in Eygalieres
at the Auberge Provencal. Our last visit there was a shock. We were the only ones staying there. The owner sold it was getting divorced and didn't want to let us down.
What has become of the place?
at the Auberge Provencal. Our last visit there was a shock. We were the only ones staying there. The owner sold it was getting divorced and didn't want to let us down.
What has become of the place?
Feb 21st, 2012, 12:11 PM
#19
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I've come up with 2 possible driving routes in the Luberon on a Saturday (July, coming from Aix). I am not a huge planner, but still wanted to outline 2 possible drives nonetheless - The first option would be if we decided we weren't all marketed out from the Thur Market in Aix, the second option is if we were and wanted to avoid the Sat Apt market.
Please let me know what you think. Any and all suggestions/changes are appreciated.
OPTION 1 - (listed in order of route):
Apt Market
Saignon
Bonnieux
Roussillon
Gordes
OPTION 2:
Lourmarin
Saignon
Roussillon
Gordes
Goult
Bonnieux
In case the drive gets to be too much and we decide we've had enough, I've tried to incorporate more the "must sees" near the beginning of the day's drive (with slight exceptions).
Please let me know what you think. Any and all suggestions/changes are appreciated.
OPTION 1 - (listed in order of route):
Apt Market
Saignon
Bonnieux
Roussillon
Gordes
OPTION 2:
Lourmarin
Saignon
Roussillon
Gordes
Goult
Bonnieux
In case the drive gets to be too much and we decide we've had enough, I've tried to incorporate more the "must sees" near the beginning of the day's drive (with slight exceptions).
