Just adding my two cents...

Mu husband and I were in Provence last year, near Avignon in early July. We stopped In Avignon for 1/2 a day and really enjoyed the energy of the festival (I would have stayed another night, but we already had a booking we had to get to). The crowds were really not bad. Though we were told that at night it might be too crazy...but keep in mind we were also there during the World Cup and were considering going into Avignon the night of the France/Portugal game.
We're going back again this year, and are planning on spending nearly a week near Coullioure and are looking forward to it!

Another off the beaten track place you might enjoy (though probably not this trip) is the Cevennes. If you are only planning 3-4 days outside Paris, I think this probably too remote to get to, but the Gorges du Tarn is absolutley amazing! We are returning here also, as part of our trip this year.

Places I can recommend to stay:

Domain Le Vallon, Aubignan

http://www.vallon-provence.com/

Mas de Lou Albeihs

St. Germaine de Colbert

Having trouble finding my info on this B&B gite...I think I may have mispelled the name...

Another suggestion: the Limousin area might suit you.

thanks, thanks for more info. now back to provence. Dordogne seems great but a bit overwhelming to try to cover, and if it's several hours away, i agree to save it for another time. how long would it take to get to collioure?
also, has anyone stayed at relais christine in paris?