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Planning trip to Scotland

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Old Jun 21st, 2006, 04:38 AM
  #21  
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Sheila, I had the same problem. I had written a lengthy reply yesterday morning and tried about ten times to make it post! I love history and spectacular scenery. I'm going to read and then give you some really detailed questions because I know you are a great resource! And I loved Gabriel's detailed trip report.

I'm not a big foodie, don't require posh accommocations, though I do usually like A/C. I'm not sure how cool it gets at night in the areas we'd like to visit - or whether A/C is usually offered?

I'd like to give Edinburgh a couple of good days to explore. I need pretty central accommodations there. Then I'd like to head to Fort William briefly to visit Glen Nevis. Then over to Skye or Mull or some other beautiful island for a couple of nights...and then I guess it will be time to head back to either Edinburgh or over to Glasgow. Of course, I'd love to see Glencoe and Oban and a bunch more places. Wish I had more time. GRRRRR. I'll just have to visit again someday. My job gives me very little vacation time.

So I'll be researching routes to take and places to stay. I'm not a courageous driver at all so had thought to rely on trains and other transportation. I realize that limits me quite a bit, though...
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Old Jun 21st, 2006, 04:47 AM
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I should add that my husband and myself (both 40 somethings) will be traveling with our daughter age 13 who also loves history. She doesn't like to spend a lot of time traveling but that's the only way to see things! I think she'll get a kick out of seeing castles. Perhaps you can suggest a few in the general areas we'll be staying and routes we'll be taking?

From my name, you can see that I love Hawaii. I'm perfectly happy to get on the boards and plan someone's whole vacation to these islands in detail. But I'm so ignorant about my ancestors' homeland (and Europe in general). I appreciate your help so much.
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Old Jun 21st, 2006, 04:50 AM
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crazy4, since you are going to Ben Nevis, Glen Coe will be no problem - it's right there. Oban is fairly close also (and Mull from there). Even Mallaig/Skye isn't terribly far, if you choose that option.
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Old Jun 21st, 2006, 04:58 AM
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crazy4Hawaii: A/C -- in Scotland --

(Tho' you might find a/c in a high end hotel in Edinburgh)

The driving is not hard outside of the cities. But you don't want a car in Edinburgh/Glasgow anyway. If you have been following a couple of threads about Skye/rural Scotland over the last couple of days, you will see that exploring places like Skye is much easier by car.

It is definitely not impossible to do it by public transport. But when you are on such a short timeframe, being limited to infrequent local buses is a problem. If you had 2 or 3 weeks to take a leisurely tour around western Scotland it would be fine by train/bus. But w/ just 3 or 4 days max it is better to do things as efficiently as possible.

You could just rent a car for 3 - 4 days and not have to drive in any cities at all.
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Old Jun 21st, 2006, 05:20 AM
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crazy4Hawaii,

Trust us, those who recommend you rent a car, know what we are saying.

When we did Scotland, I had less than one year licence and my wife had just over one year on the right hand side.

However, she still drove in Scotland on the left hand side with such little experience (I wasn't allowed having less than one year).

We were terribly nervous at the beginning, but gradually she became more and more confident behind the wheel, especially when she saw that the other drivers were so courteous.

Moreover, when we passed Glasgow everything was like a breeze.
We were alone on the roads. We just had to keep left... Easy!

OK, let me tell you a funny story.

We had just come out of Fort William and were heading north. We stopped at a gas station to fill up. Upon exit I told my wife: "now look right and turn left". She looked right, indeed, but somehow she turned right as well!!

We were on the highway, heavy traffic there, and a 16 wheeler was looming at a couple hundred metres in front of us.

"Reverse! Reverse! Reverse!" I was shouting... She kept on turning to the right, climbed on the pavement and there we were back in the gas station yard... Safe!

Now we have a big laugh whenever we think of it.

Such happenings become the best memories of a holiday and believe me, we have quite a few from our various trips.

Really, it is not stressful to drive there, except in Glasgow and Edinburgh.

Even in Inverness and Stirling driving was like a breeze.

Rent a car, come on!
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Old Jun 21st, 2006, 05:52 AM
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Janis, even the Balmoral doesn't have ac ! And I've surmised that neither do the Caley or the Scotsman, as I've often seen windows open - well, not that often, but you know what I mean I suppose it's possible that some of the newer boutique-y ones, like the Glasshouse, might have - but I doubt it.
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Old Jun 21st, 2006, 06:14 AM
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Just the concept of a/c in Scotland made me laugh . . . . . .
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Old Jun 21st, 2006, 06:15 AM
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Thanks for the additional information, crazy4. I was busy writing my last reply while your last was posting, so didn't see it...

Our first trip to Scotland was when my daughters were 11 and 13. They had such a great time. They used the car time to update their journals. Even now, 7 years later, they love to look back on their trip reports.

Scotland is great for history (expecially strong on the tragic or violent) and abundant natural beauty. Water, hills, sheep, and the occasional highland cow make for wonderful pictures.

With your love of history, I think you will find Glen Coe fascinating and moving. As well as beautiful. Iona would be a great destination with its hundreds of years of history.

The castle in Edinburgh is one of the best you'll find in Scotland. Similar in age and general feel is the Stirling castle. Both are medieval fortification castles that are intact/renovated. There are countless castle ruins and other castles all around Scotland. Some are more like country homes, others resemble palaces. Chances are wherever you end up there will be a castle/ruins nearby. For example in Oban you can take a short walk (1 km) and be at Dunollie Castle, a pretty decent castle ruin on the edge of town. There is also the 13th century Dunstaffnage Castle about 7 km outside Oban. The Duart Castle on Mull comes highly recommended (I haven't been).
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Old Jun 21st, 2006, 02:13 PM
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The buses on Mull run 5-6 times/day, usually timed with ferry arrivals and departures. There's buses between Craignure and Fionnphort (where you catch ferry to Iona) and Craignure to Tobermory (the big town on Mull), as well as Tobermory to Dervaig and Calgary. There's also a bus (I think it's a tour-type bus?) that will fetch you from Craignure and take you to Duart Castle. You can also catch a cute little short train ride (looks like a kiddy ride) from Craignure to Torosay Castle. Easy to touch on Mull's highlights and/or Iona (which is a great place for history and it's totally walkable; in fact tourists aren't even allowed to bring cars to the island anyway).

You could spend your nights on Mull or basecamp it in Oban, your preference. When we stayed in Oban we liked our cozy room at Harbour View Guest House, across from ferry station (we could watch them come and go from our window). Clean, comfortable room, shared bath, convenient location, good breakfast, nice hosts and great prices for the area.
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Old Jun 22nd, 2006, 02:51 PM
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Okay, I guess the a/c in Scotland thing was kinda funny. It's over 90 degrees here right now so I guess it baked my brain a wee bit. LOL

I will also reconsider the car issue... Your suggestions are a great help and encouragement to me.

I'm reading a Rick Steve guidebook to kind of get an overview for being a tourist/traveler in Scotland and London area so I'm sure some more questions will pop into my mind as I read and plan.

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Old Jun 22nd, 2006, 03:03 PM
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The best guidebook we used for Scotland (and we have most of them) is the one by Peter Irvine, Scotland the Best. New editions are published regularly, and I am currently on my 3rd copy of the book. It has never steered me wrong, and has in fact led me to some of my very favorite things in Scotland. Since you have so much time to plan your trip, you might get some great ideas from it.
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Old Jun 22nd, 2006, 07:38 PM
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I whole heartedly second the recommendation of &quot;<i>Scotland the Best</i>&quot; by Peter Irvine. Not so much a guide book, but more a comprehensive gazette of all things Scottish. Best walks, best Restaurants, best viewpoints, best pubs, best picnic spots, best churches, best museums, best gardens, best castles, best just about anything you can think of.

One caution about Rick Steves - some of his books are great - especially for some other parts of Europe. But he is not nearly the expert about the UK and especially Scotland that he is about say, Paris or Italy, or the Rhine.

The UK is sort of a blind spot for him - in fact some of his advice is rather odd.
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Old Jun 23rd, 2006, 07:13 AM
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I am going to get that book by Peter Irvine right away so we can do some reading and planning before we go in August.
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Old Jun 23rd, 2006, 09:37 AM
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You know, I thought some of his accommodations recommendations were kind of odd-sounding and out of the way! I'll definitely be looking at the other guides as well! Thanks for the suggestions.
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Old Jun 23rd, 2006, 10:12 AM
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dbaker, I'm afraid that Irvine will give you lots of things you will want to ADD to your itinerary, which could spell trouble for you, given how much structure you already have! Or it could lead to big changes...

On our driving tour of Scotland, I used the book (and some other sources) to make a list of possibilities along/near our route each day. Depending on our mood and our progress to the next night's lodging, we picked our sights as we went. We had two weeks, didn't cover as much real estate as you are planning, and stayed in several places for more than one night. And we still left tons of things on the cutting room floor. OTOH, we enjoyed everything we did get to do and see, and Irvine's recommendations were always spot on.

Another nice resource is the Undiscovered Scotland web site:
http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/
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Old Jun 23rd, 2006, 10:25 AM
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I have been using the undiscoveredscotland website extensively and I love it. As for the book, I want it to see if there are things that are already along our route that we could stop at IF we end up with time. Plus, I can use the book and all the things we &quot;missed&quot; to justify a future trip later on
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Old Jun 23rd, 2006, 12:39 PM
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History and spectacular scenery. OK. We can do that.

Do you prefer Hotels or B&amp;Bs?

If you stick with trains you will be quite limited, but it's not a disaster.

Castles? yes, we have those, too.

Don't let noe fool you. If you DRIVE to Fort William you will drive down through Glen Coe, but it would be a fair old detour to Oban. And if you are going to Glen Nevis and have time only for one island it should be Skye. You can't get direct from Fort William to Oban.

So no need to go through Oban on the way to Mull

If you take the train you will see the top of Glen Coe as you come off Rannoch Moor. That is, incidentally, a very spectacular journey.

So, were it me, I would take the train all the way to Fort William to start with. Take the sleeper, and you'll wake in the beauty of Rannoch Moor. (day 1) Then do your whisky thing; eat in the seafood place on Loch Linnhe and move on. (day 2)By train (maybe even the Jacobite? The Harry Potter train?) to Mallaig. Either get the bus from Armadale to your sleeping place (TBA) and get a driver, or get the driver to pick you up at Armadale. Spend the rest of the day on Skye and all of the next day (day 3) See Dunvegan castle and the Fairy Flag, go to Flora Macdonald's house, go to Elgol to see the seals and go to the Black House Museum. Take a good walk- The Quiraing; Kilt roack; Glen Brittle; whatever.

(day 4) take the train to Inverness from Kyle of Lochalsh and then from Inverness to Edinburgh. Try to work the timetable so you can get out at Blair Atholl and see Blair Castle.

(day 5/6) Edinburgh
Edinburgh is a mixture of a wonderful late mediaeval city with a planned Georgian New Town. The Castle is a must, but a brisk hike up Arthur's seat (a hill in the centre of the town above Holyrood Palace) will give you magnificent views out over the whole of east central Scotland.

The Royal Yacht Britannia is berthed at Leith, Edinburgh's port, and can be visited by the public, and the new Museum of Scotland in the centre of the City is pretty good, for the architecture as well as the exhibits.

It's also a great shopping city.
The odd gothic memorial in the middle of Edinburgh's main shopping street, the Scott Monument, lauds one of our great Victorian writers, Walter Scott. It can be climbed for the view over the gardens and up to the Castle.

Mary Kings Close is a street which, in the middle ages, was on ground level but when the great plague came to visit Scotland (and Edinburgh in particular) it hit the place hard. The worst section of the city was right in the heart of the 'Old Town', where the present City Chambers are nowadays. This street was known as Mary King’s Close (after an advocate’s daughter so the story goes) and the local authorities, the kind beings that they are, decided to seal both entrances of the street up with everyone still inside. This street was rediscovered many years later and now you can take a tour down there. WARNING - they tell you that because of the many people sealed alive down there that there are ghosts aplenty. There's now a visitor centre.

The two best places in Edinburgh for folk music are 2 pubs (surprise!) One is the Tron and the other is Sandy Bell's.

The Ensign Ewart which is situated near the entrance to the Castle, also does a more tourist based version of folk music.
You could visit Davidson's Mains, in the outskirts, where there is a baronial (i.e., circa 1895 but looking very medieval) house called Lauriston Castle. The tours are great, as this &quot;castle&quot; has secret passageways, a library bookshelf that hides a secret door, etc. From Davidson's Mains it is a very short (7-8 minutes)drive to Cramond, which has a yachtsman's harbor, the mouth of the River Almond, a medieval church (Cramond Kirk) and the remains (in the churchyard!) of one of Rome's northernmost garrison forts.

A list of things to see includes
The New Town-planned grid Georgian -makes Bath pale by comparison
The Royal Mile -Medieval route between the Castle and Holyrood palace
The Castle
Valvona and Crolla -best deli in the UK
Greyfriars Bobby - statue of dog who sat at his master’s grave for decades
The Meadows - huge park in the town centre
Dean Village - working men’s planned village
Calton Hill -Observatory
Holyrood- Palace and Park - Queen’s Scottish town house and big garden
The new parliament - this trip can be arranged. There is a visitor's gallery at the Scottish parliament and you can get tickets from (would you believe) the ticket office! There is no dress code.
The Museum of Childhood - on the Royal Mile
Cafe Vittoria - neighbourhood Tally restaurant. Very down to earth.
St Giles Cathedral - on the Mile. Scene of Jenny what’shername’s tantrum. Crown tower
Parliament House
Make sure you visit the National Gladstone’s Land, -mediaeval close off the High Street(the Mile)
Plus there are great restaurants, pubs, gardens and parks. If it's atmosphere in a restaurant you like try The Witchery. The prices are a little steep, but the food is good and it's right beside the castle. (as far as atmosphere, the name says it all)

Other great restaurants include Stac Polly, the Marque, Caf&eacute; Hub, Browns, Le Sept, Est Est Est, Bann’s, Henderson’s, the Kalpna, Viva Mexico, Shamiana, the Siam Erewan.

Other great pubs include the Caf&eacute; Royal, the Barony, Mathers, the Diggers (posh name the Athletic Arms), the Roseburn, Bert’s, and the Abbotsford.

This is a city heaving with museums. I believe I have mentioned the National Museum of Scotland and the Museum of Childhood. In addition there are:-
The National Gallery and Royal Scottish Academy
the National Portrait Gallery
The Gallery of Modern Art
The Dean Gallery
The Georgian House
The City Art Centre
The Fruitmarket Gallery,
The Collective Gallery
The Printmakers’ Workshop

Or you can go to the Zoo; Dynamic Earth(mixed reviews- haven’t been myself), or the Botanic Gardens.

It’s awash with places to walk, sporting facilities, cinemas, theatres, music venues, and stunning architecture.

So, that should fill your last two days, eh?


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Old Jun 23rd, 2006, 01:03 PM
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Sorry, Sheila, I WAS thinking of the drive from Ben Nevis to Fort William/Glen Coe and to Oban. By train it is completely different. A bus might run that way, but I am way out of my league there, having never taken a public bus in Scotland (although I have spent the better part of 6 weeks riding charter buses around Scotland with the bagpipe band!).

But I do think that crazy4 said that they would be reconsidering the driving question.
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Old Jun 23rd, 2006, 01:09 PM
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btw, Sheila, that list of things to do/see/eat in Edinburgh is wonderful. I am saving it for our trip in August - plan to do day trips to Edinburgh from Glasgow.

I second the recommendation for the walk up Arthur's Seat. That walk, the Castle (particularly St. Margaret's chapel), and the Camera Obscura were my favorite parts of my first Edinburgh visit. Also loved all the different 'rose' paving stones in the new town - was that on George Street?
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Old Jun 23rd, 2006, 02:16 PM
  #40  
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Oh thank you, Sheila! That sounds like a lovely itinerary. I had considered renting a car in Ft. William and driving to Oban - since there are no large cities to drive through on this route - but if you think Skye would be just as wonderful, or even more so, than going to Mull/Iona, that would certainly be easier. AND I understand that you can rent a car on Skye, which my faint heart could probably tolerate...

I've always considered myself a hotel person but have had a couple of wonderful B&amp;B experiences, so I'm very open to suggestions. I do like to stay somewhere within walking distance of a few places to eat or visit, as I'm not fond of having to get in a car every time I want to venture out.
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