Picos de Europa - 5 days
Dec 31st, 2007, 03:13 PM
#22
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Speaking of Celtic castros...
I also recommend the fortified hill settlement at Monte Tegra. And the town of A Guarda is the lobster (bogavante) capital of Galicia. (But the bogavante at the Baiona Parador was the best I've ever tasted!) Best accompanied by one of the area's fantastic Albariño wines (such as Pazo de Señorans).
The coast of Western Asturias is also blessed with a wonderfully well preserved group of Celtic castros,
particularly the pre Roman settlement of Coaña-quite famous.
bob,
If you plan to take the coastal route, the Autovía del Cantábrico, from Ribadeo, Galicia to Ribadesella, Asturias then down the BN 634 to Cangas, the castro of Coaña (1 km from the village of same name) is a very short and fascinating detour from the Autovía, taking the Navia exit.
I also recommend the fortified hill settlement at Monte Tegra. And the town of A Guarda is the lobster (bogavante) capital of Galicia. (But the bogavante at the Baiona Parador was the best I've ever tasted!) Best accompanied by one of the area's fantastic Albariño wines (such as Pazo de Señorans).
The coast of Western Asturias is also blessed with a wonderfully well preserved group of Celtic castros,
particularly the pre Roman settlement of Coaña-quite famous.
bob,
If you plan to take the coastal route, the Autovía del Cantábrico, from Ribadeo, Galicia to Ribadesella, Asturias then down the BN 634 to Cangas, the castro of Coaña (1 km from the village of same name) is a very short and fascinating detour from the Autovía, taking the Navia exit.
Jan 1st, 2008, 06:24 AM
#23
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Terific Maribel !
I am marking my map as we speak. I also have an email into Alberto to stay at his place. We will also be driving N634 on the crest of Galicia---Viveiro etc.---do you have any gems in that area?
I am marking my map as we speak. I also have an email into Alberto to stay at his place. We will also be driving N634 on the crest of Galicia---Viveiro etc.---do you have any gems in that area?
Jan 1st, 2008, 06:35 AM
#24
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Here is my small contribution: Outside Viveiro we had a great dinner at the restaurant of the oddly named Hotel Ego. We stayed at the hotel overnight on a week-long driving trip from Santiago to Cangas and on to Santanilla del Mar. Unfortunately this was a few years before I discovered the wonder of Maribel!
Jan 1st, 2008, 09:15 AM
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Hi bob and eks,
Eks, you chose well for dining in Viveiro. The Hotel Ego's restaurant is well-regarded (P Casas), as is the O'Muro (Margarita Pardo de Cota 28) in town.
In the lovely 3 star village of O Barqueiro (don't miss!), the Bodegón O'Forno at the port is a simple but popular spot with the local fishermen. Excellent local calamares and chocos (cuttlefish).
bob,
I'm sure that you and Susan will enjoy Casa do Castelo de Andrade, and I know Susan will like the cinnamon, honey and vanilla candles that perfume the place (you can purchase them to take home) and the pretty cream colored breakfast pottery from La Esmeralda. Alfonso went to great lengths to decorate this charming place with style.
Eks, you chose well for dining in Viveiro. The Hotel Ego's restaurant is well-regarded (P Casas), as is the O'Muro (Margarita Pardo de Cota 28) in town.
In the lovely 3 star village of O Barqueiro (don't miss!), the Bodegón O'Forno at the port is a simple but popular spot with the local fishermen. Excellent local calamares and chocos (cuttlefish).
bob,
I'm sure that you and Susan will enjoy Casa do Castelo de Andrade, and I know Susan will like the cinnamon, honey and vanilla candles that perfume the place (you can purchase them to take home) and the pretty cream colored breakfast pottery from La Esmeralda. Alfonso went to great lengths to decorate this charming place with style.
Jan 1st, 2008, 09:41 AM
#26
If you do decide to trek up North the Picos are very good (watch out for storms and snow on the tops even in May). Might try linking up with the museum in Bilbao or the Rioja wine district both worth an extra day or so.
I would avoid Mallorca too
I would avoid Mallorca too
Jan 3rd, 2008, 04:40 AM
#28
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bilboburgler writes (in pertinent part) "... An enourmous part of Christ's cross is up in a monestry in the Picos. Suggest this monestry is not worth the visit (unlike most in the area)."
That's Santo Toribio Monastery, 2km from Potes in the region called Liebana. The fragment of Christ's Cross is far from 'enormous,' maybe 12cm long. But the story about how the Relic was taken higher & higher into the mountains by the Monks to keep it from falling into the hands of the invading Moors is what it's all about.
The Guardias de las Montañas end their season around mid-April with Rescue competitions; and yes, there may be snowfall in that area until the end of April.
I stayed a few days at Hostal Picos de Europa in Potes in April several years ago. Cocido de Liebana, the same as Favada Asturiana except the cocido uses garbanzo beans and the Favada uses Fava beans, is a great winter meal. Have some of Liebana's signature cheeses for dessert, with sips of Orujo and you're ready for a siesta ...
That's Santo Toribio Monastery, 2km from Potes in the region called Liebana. The fragment of Christ's Cross is far from 'enormous,' maybe 12cm long. But the story about how the Relic was taken higher & higher into the mountains by the Monks to keep it from falling into the hands of the invading Moors is what it's all about.
The Guardias de las Montañas end their season around mid-April with Rescue competitions; and yes, there may be snowfall in that area until the end of April.
I stayed a few days at Hostal Picos de Europa in Potes in April several years ago. Cocido de Liebana, the same as Favada Asturiana except the cocido uses garbanzo beans and the Favada uses Fava beans, is a great winter meal. Have some of Liebana's signature cheeses for dessert, with sips of Orujo and you're ready for a siesta ...
Jan 3rd, 2008, 05:05 AM
#29
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Maribel: We had lunch in O Muro that same day. Since I did not have the trusty Maribel guides I was using Penelope, supplemented by Cadogan Northern Spain. I really need to return to that area someday soon. For sheer physical beauty I don't think many places in Europe can compare... And my trip would certainly be enhanced by the Maribel Asturias guide! I cannot wait to read it!
Jan 3rd, 2008, 10:08 AM
#30
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Hi eks,
Just for you and bob, I'll work even hard on the Asturias and Cantabria guides to get them done and up before your next visit. But you did very well with Pe Casas.
Speaking of cocido:
Pe and many of us here just love dining at the truly charming, just perfect Hotel del Oso in Cosgaya. Their cocido lebaniego is pantagruelian in its proportions-easily feeding 4, as does their fantastic chuletón de ternera. And with welcoming service, pretty mountain decor, a sophisticated wine list (they're making a nice red here, Picos de Cabariezo), high quality stemware, what's not to like? And of course the Liébana valley special dessert, el canónigo, which is similar to an ille flotante. Plus two adorable St. Bernards who live at the hotel, one a puppy. We never tire of stopping here. I know Graziella and others are big fans of the Hotel del Oso.
And my favorite orujo from here is the crema de orujo from El Coterón. www.elcoteron.com
The trek up to the village of Bejes to purchase their Bejes-Tresviso picón (like the Asturian cabrales) makes an unforgettable detour for a foodie.
About visiting the Monasterio de Toribio:
the two jewels it possesses, the Lignum Crucis, the largest piece of the True Cross in existence (measures 635 mm long, 393 mm wide, 38 mm thick) and the monk Beato's illustrated commentaries on the Apocalipsis are kept well preserved but difficult for the drop in visitor to see.
Copies of Beato's illustrated commentaries are now displayed in the cloister, but the originals are not on display to the general public. The chapel where the Lignum Crucis is kept can only be seen at certain hours and never during mass. We've struck out twice in our last 2 visits this year.
The Monastery is open from 10-2 and 4-7 to the public, but if you have your heart set on viewing both of these treasures, you should contact the Franciscan brotherhood at [email protected]
Just for you and bob, I'll work even hard on the Asturias and Cantabria guides to get them done and up before your next visit. But you did very well with Pe Casas.
Speaking of cocido:
Pe and many of us here just love dining at the truly charming, just perfect Hotel del Oso in Cosgaya. Their cocido lebaniego is pantagruelian in its proportions-easily feeding 4, as does their fantastic chuletón de ternera. And with welcoming service, pretty mountain decor, a sophisticated wine list (they're making a nice red here, Picos de Cabariezo), high quality stemware, what's not to like? And of course the Liébana valley special dessert, el canónigo, which is similar to an ille flotante. Plus two adorable St. Bernards who live at the hotel, one a puppy. We never tire of stopping here. I know Graziella and others are big fans of the Hotel del Oso.
And my favorite orujo from here is the crema de orujo from El Coterón. www.elcoteron.com
The trek up to the village of Bejes to purchase their Bejes-Tresviso picón (like the Asturian cabrales) makes an unforgettable detour for a foodie.
About visiting the Monasterio de Toribio:
the two jewels it possesses, the Lignum Crucis, the largest piece of the True Cross in existence (measures 635 mm long, 393 mm wide, 38 mm thick) and the monk Beato's illustrated commentaries on the Apocalipsis are kept well preserved but difficult for the drop in visitor to see.
Copies of Beato's illustrated commentaries are now displayed in the cloister, but the originals are not on display to the general public. The chapel where the Lignum Crucis is kept can only be seen at certain hours and never during mass. We've struck out twice in our last 2 visits this year.
The Monastery is open from 10-2 and 4-7 to the public, but if you have your heart set on viewing both of these treasures, you should contact the Franciscan brotherhood at [email protected]
Jan 3rd, 2008, 12:17 PM
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Maribel, I am still trying to live down the fact that 6 or 7 years ago, I ate the cocido and the entrecot with Picon sauce and a dessert with figs and honey and orujo ... My mum and my sister keeps reminding me every time I complain about too much food.
A place we like in Potes is Casa Cayo. We have had tapas and also eaten a la carte, and both time has been a great place. We specially like the tongue and the soup.
Rgds, Cova
A place we like in Potes is Casa Cayo. We have had tapas and also eaten a la carte, and both time has been a great place. We specially like the tongue and the soup.
Rgds, Cova
Jan 3rd, 2008, 01:28 PM
#34
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cova,
I can't believe you ate that meal!! Brava!
We also like Casa Cayo and tried to eat there twice in Nov. but it was a weekend, we hadn't reserved and it was packed to the rafters!
But luckily we discovered a new place that I'm sure you would enjoy as well.
It's the Cenador del Capitán, right at the bridge (left side) on the top floor of the building next to the Torreón del Infantado, with views looking over to the Casa Cayo. Downstairs is their adventure sports company, upstairs a store, Nuestras cosas, selling local hand embroidered items, top floor, their small restaurant. Charming country decor, warm welcome, cozy-like dining in a prettily, stylishly decorated attic. Great attention to detail. It should be in the Campsa guide, IMO. Closes Tuesday.
Another, strictly gourmet place, across from the Hotel del Oso, is the restaurante Urugallo, in front of the Casona de Cosgaya. Very sophisticated in every way and another member of Club de Calidad Cantabria. Our friends who live in Castillo treated us to lunch there, and we were quite impressed. Really nice menú del día for 22 euros. The chef won the Lo Mejor de la Gastronomía Tortilla competition, so we stop there in the morning for a tortilla de patatas fix”
Great dining in these parts.
I can't believe you ate that meal!! Brava!
We also like Casa Cayo and tried to eat there twice in Nov. but it was a weekend, we hadn't reserved and it was packed to the rafters!
But luckily we discovered a new place that I'm sure you would enjoy as well.
It's the Cenador del Capitán, right at the bridge (left side) on the top floor of the building next to the Torreón del Infantado, with views looking over to the Casa Cayo. Downstairs is their adventure sports company, upstairs a store, Nuestras cosas, selling local hand embroidered items, top floor, their small restaurant. Charming country decor, warm welcome, cozy-like dining in a prettily, stylishly decorated attic. Great attention to detail. It should be in the Campsa guide, IMO. Closes Tuesday.
Another, strictly gourmet place, across from the Hotel del Oso, is the restaurante Urugallo, in front of the Casona de Cosgaya. Very sophisticated in every way and another member of Club de Calidad Cantabria. Our friends who live in Castillo treated us to lunch there, and we were quite impressed. Really nice menú del día for 22 euros. The chef won the Lo Mejor de la Gastronomía Tortilla competition, so we stop there in the morning for a tortilla de patatas fix”
Great dining in these parts.
Jan 3rd, 2008, 07:50 PM
#35
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Hi Cova, long time!
When I was in Potes I had lunch in Casa Cayo. Didn't know it was supposed to be good, but liked the looks of it, so went in and had a great cocido. Boy, was I stuffed after that. And it was summer! But thankfully, not very hot.
When I was in Potes I had lunch in Casa Cayo. Didn't know it was supposed to be good, but liked the looks of it, so went in and had a great cocido. Boy, was I stuffed after that. And it was summer! But thankfully, not very hot.
