LoveItaly

Ah SeaUrchin, being sick while on a trip, especially from bad food is NOT fun! I am sorry. But guess it has happened to all of us at one time or another. The only time that I got ill from bad food was in Barstow. Our TBird broke down in Barstow while driving home from Las Vegas and we had to wait for parts etc. The fried chicken at the dump we ate at..well lets say we didn't eat fried chicken for a long time. But since there is nothing to do in Barstow we didn't miss any sights or sites LOL.

SeaUrchin

Yes, LI, it was a shame but we were both glad we could relax in our rooms and recover.

Friday we walked over to the Galleries Lafayette for our fashion show. I had put our names on a list from a website that was shown here on Fodors travel talk. We got up to the correct floor and I was about ready to open the door when all of a sudden there was a shout from the escalator, no!! My goodness, I almost jumped up in surprise, "it is not time yet, you are too early you have to wait outside!!" ok, ok. don't get overly excited, Mr. Handsome Gallery Man. We waited and when they opened the doors there was the excited although extremely handsome man. We did get excellent seats, right on the runway. It is put on for ideas of what they sell in the store but it is nice and I would go again.

We went to the different departments browsing around after the show, buying jackets, looking at shoes, etc. We got a 10% discount by registering at the desk downstairs at the recommendation of a salesgirl. She had been showing us what to buy that will be copied for next season by American manufacturers, good enough. Cutting edge jackets, cute.

Dinner at Petit Pont at 1 rue du Petit Pont across the bridge from Notre Dame on rive gauche side. I had brochette of chicken with basmati rice and wonderful green beans (I know but I guess I am not too exotic in my dining choices). Very good dishes and live music, jazz musicians playing next to us, and I mean next to us, I could have played the drums with my spoon! But I refrained.

Walked around the area and I bought a lovely crystal bracelet at Akhesa, facing St Julien the Pouvre church. I just love that bracelet, handmade. I loved it so much I got mixed up and told the saleswoman I loved her instead of it. She blushed and we laughed about it. When we left I blew her a kiss and she blew one back at me.

We went back to the Paris Vision office at 8:30pm for our illuminary tour at 9pm and our trip to Moulin Rouge. We grabbed the seats on the top level in the front and had an unobstructed view, try to do that if you can without creating a brawl. The bus dropped us off in front of the theater and our guide showed us where to meet afterwards. We did have to wait in line but not too long and we were seated in the…. very …. top row at a table for six from our group. Actually we could see better from up there and the waiter didn't want to keep climbing up to us so he left us with two champagne bottles and that was that. Since only four of us were drinking, we had a lovely time!!

I really enjoyed the show, it was very tasteful and entertaining. Little topless bouncing dancers and boy dancers and ponies and magicians and mimes and acrobats oh my. But not all at the same time! Various acts and intermission and a can can later we found ourselves outdoors after the show.

The crowd moves out and in fairly well so that was fine. We were still in the cancan mood so we danced around a bit until we had to board our buses for the hotels. We got to our hotel at about 2:30AM and four of us had to awaken the night man to unlock the doors. Fun evening. Sound asleep later I was awakened by someone tugging on my blanket from the side of the bed. I woke up fully but didn't more when I finally turned around to look there was no one there, odd.

Saturday, we went to Rodin Museum in late morning, on the way got terribly lost and walked a long way out of the way until we were ready to drop from hunger so we stopped at the first place we saw for lunch. It was Sip Babylon. What a great name. It is at 46 Blvd Raspail. Oh Raspail, the street that we kept running into as we tried to find our way, I will never forget that street. But back to Babylon, baby. We had the best lunch there, omelets, potatoes, ham, mushrooms, mineral water, wine and absolutely the best coffee I have ever had in my life. With M having a bloody mary the total price was 34:20 euro. Recommend it.

Loved the Rodin Museum and took way too many photos, but highly recommend this setting, so beautiful with a outdoor tearoom and lovely grounds for relaxing.

Back at the hotel I spoke to Barb who had arrived earlier and we met at her hotel and then walked over to, yes, La Petit Perigourdine again, I'm sorry you have to put up with our dullness in Paris, dear Fodorites (if you are still reading, I think I hear collective Fodorite snoring out there). This time the food and service were not good at all. Too bad. Oh well, an off night I guess.

We decided to go over to Caveau De La Huchette for a jazzy evening. We went downstairs to the cave where the music was playing and the people were dancing to the lively Duke Ellington style band. We couldn’t find a place to sit so we stood by the band. The place was as hot as Hades and not only because Barb and the guitar player were making eye contact!! The music was really good and we were hopping around when I asked the Man With The Ponytail bopping next to me to dance. He looked harmless. He wore me out!! What a dancer, looks deceive. He was spinning me around like a top, I was completely spent at the end of that never ending set. Barb and I went upstairs to actually breathe and find M! It was fun, I would recommend Caveau
highly. When we were leaving, Mr. Mild Mannered Looks Deceiving Man With Ponytail said to us, do you want to party? Non, merci.

5alive

I hope to finish reading it tomorrow -- but the pictures are great. I need to quit looking at the food shots though, they make me hungry!

islandmom

enjoyed all your albums! Thanks

SeaUrchin

Thanks! I learned my lesson of not trying to speak my version of French after that poor saleswoman blushed, but it shows that they are not all uptight and curt.

Sunday morning, the three of us met and walked over to Rue Mouffetard for the outdoor market and festivities for the locals. What fun we had. So many shops in stands on the street and musicians playing. We watched the ballroom dancers and sang along to the music in French, they had passed out song sheets and I kept getting lost in my lyrics, so Barb would stop singing and point to the words. I do know Frere Jacques but they didn't sing that or Le Vie en Rose which are all I have in my repertoire of French songs. We shopped for cheeses and stopped for a little picnic buying a crepe from Katrina which I thought was excellent. The exchange with the crepemaker was,

USA?
Yes.
Bush no good. Iran and Turkey good.
(we didn't know what to say, after all he was handling our food)
I said, is France good?
He thought and then said yes.
I said, well, then viva le France!
He laughed and made us a good crepe.

We bought some wine and sat on a bench for lunch.

At the Droguerie Coustou at 133 rue Mouffetard we bought authentic bread sacks and some other kitchen items for a bargain! The sacks were 3 euro a piece. Great gifts.

Barb and I went over to Ille de France, had muscadet severes wine, olives, my cheese and bread at an outdoor café and watched the world go by. We shopped a bit, buying hats at Le Grain de Sable at 79 rue St Louise en ille. A great store, http://grain.de.sable.free.fr
Recommend it but you can stay too long trying on and buying hats, ask how I know.

Went down the road poking our heads into shops and buying bracelets we didn't notice it was 5pm and we had to change clothes for Jim Haynes dinner!

LoveItaly

Delightful report SeaUrchin, I sure wish I could have been there with you!!
The crystal braclet sounds wonderful, good for you! BTW, I wouldn't even know how to say something "wrong" in French, LOL.

SeaUrchin

(Oh I forgot to mention that Saturday night I was awakened again by something pushing around my paper sacks in the room.)

we hurried to the hotel and changed for the dinner, called a cab and we were off. As we stood in front of the building we were not sure which gate to open to get to Jim's. A strikingly pretty young woman was just arriving and had just found the door so we all went into the party. Jim was sitting on a stool facing the door and we introduced ourselves and he checked off our names on his clipboard. We started mingling around and meeting and greeting. The woman we met at the gate is a pilot for Alaska Airlines, how interesting! The kitchen is open to the living area and a man was busy stirring the pots of food and when he started serving buffet style we all lined up. It was very very congenial, no one had an agenda or an attitude. How many times can you go to a complete stranger's home and meet other complete strangers and be in a foreign country no less and feel completely at home? I won't speak for the others but I did. I know the other Fodorites there had a good time. It was so nice to meet Amy and Melissa. M and I thought the nucleur scientist, Claude, was specially interesting and world traveled, Tom the local furniture designer and others. We had chicken in a stew, rice, carrots, salad and ice cream with lemon sauce. Very tasty. What a fun evening, I would recommend it highly. I think we donated Jim 20 or 25 euro.

Oh I told Melissa about the blanket pulling incident in my room and we decided it was the ghost of a long ago guest who was still looking for his slippers under the bed, lol.

At about 10:30 we took a cab back to the hotel and I slept fitfully with the light on because I had finally figured out, duh, that it was a mouse in my room, I would rather have had a ghost. I slept with my face mask and woke up about every half hour expecting the mouse. I thought with the
light on he would see me and decide to stay away from the bed.

We checked out Monday morning and had a cab take us to CDG. All was fine until the agents told both of us our luggage was overweight and that we would have to pay a fine. A euro a pound over. Oh no, didn't mind the money but did mind the time it would take. My agent said to go to the blue office, for irregularite baggage and vaguely pointed down the building, pay and get my boarding pass from them. I tried to see the office she want pointing to and didn't want to leave my spot with her and wander around looking for it so I kept saying I didn’t see it, which I didn’t. Luckily instead of getting upset with me she smiled, closed up her desk and walked us over to the office. No way would I have seen it, it was not clearly marked and far down the aisle. It didn’t take long to pay and get the boarding passes and we were on our way.

On the plane we sat in separate rows and I found myself sitting in the midst of men who looked vaguely familiar, they were loose and having
a good time. It didn’t seem like they had been on airplanes much and didn't understand why they had to sit in the seats they were assigned if they would rather sit with someone else. The attendent was overwrought over this and tried to get them to stay where they "belonged" but as soon as lift off they came to sit in a group with me in the middle. I knew from their conversations in Spanish that they were musicians and come to find out they were part of the band put together as the Buena Vista Social Club from Cuba. I knew I recognized some of them! These guys had formed a new group and were going to play all around the Cote d' Azur. But sadly after we were scheduled to leave! darn.

COTE D' AZUR

I didn't take daily notes in the Cote d' Azur and no one seems that interested anyway, so I will just lump my recommendations together.

Le Grimaldi, wonderful hotel, on the rue Maccarini side. I had a classic room and it was clean, beautifully decorated, large, great views and I could go on and on. The only tiny downside is the breakfast buffet is 15 euro. I also found out at the buffet that I am a rube. I picked out all the wonderful looking items on the table, picked up a hard boiled egg from a little stand and went back to my table. All was fine until I put my little egg in my little egg holder and with my pinkie finger in the air gently tapped the egg to take off the top shell and scoop out the …… what the?!! The egg was raw and ran over the holder and down to the saucer beneath it. I looked at M, we giggled. Oh, so the eggs in the stand are raw and you are supposed to put them in little dippers into the water behind the stand and cook them as you
like them. Oh. Sorry. The waitress was classy and just silently took the egg goop away.

Other days we ate breakfast at a lovely restaurant, I cant think of the name but I will look around for it, if needed, on rue Messina across from Café Messina which was very good also.

We paid 17 euro for the day to rent a chaise lounge with an umbrella and table by the sea. We had a nice waiter who served us drinks and we could have had lunch from the menu. Our hotel had given us a brouchure for Rhul Plage which we liked so much. Restrooms and
a bar are there also. Very civilized. Also you don't have to sit on the rocky beach. We hammed it up and took the photos to prove it.

In Nice, there is a nice outdoor restaurant, in the photo I am sitting under their yellow umbrellas, called Cayenne K'fe in old town, very nice,
I had a sandwich and frites. Across from the court so you get some legal type clients dining there, lawyers, judges, etc.

Restaurant Luc Salsedo on rue Maccarani next to our hotel has very inventive dishes and very very good.

La Tire Bouchon! We loved this restaurant. The decoration drew us inside, very very clean, wonderful service, excellent dishes. It is at 19 rue de la Prefecture, www.le-tire-bouchon.com I can't rave enough about this place. I also cant rave about it because I am libel to jump on a plane this afternoon to go back there. All courses were first class, as the wine.

Chez Juliette at 1 rue Rossetti, another great place. This one is the red photo on my pbase, look at the cute decorations, like eating
in a turn of the century brothel, meant in a good way, ha. Highly recommmend it.

We toured around to the neighboring towns:

In Eze, I bought myself a lovely bracelet on my birthday, I wanted something from my favorite town on the coast and at the shop, shown in the photo, of Pyrodecor on rue Pincipale I found a handmade beautiful one. The owner was proud to tell me that her husband had designed and made it by hand. She was also proud that she sells only local French items.

In Monaco I bought the very best chocolate, it has to be it is the sole chocolatier for the Grimaldi family. I can see why it is delicious. The shop is Carlinos at 18/20 rue Princesse Marie Lorraine.

The winery in the photos is the St. Jeannet wine village of Domaine des Hautes Collines de la Cote D' Azur 800 chemin des Sausses [email protected]

We dined mostly in Nice but did have lunch at the lovely village of St. Paul at the café in the photo.

That's all folks.

marcy_

SeaUrchin,
Don't think for a minute that "no one seems that interested" !!

I've been reading your report with great interest--I justt have a bad habit of "lurking" without replying sometimes. Sorry!

I really enjoyed your pictures, and I've taken lots of notes for future Paris trips- I've been to Paris lots of times but I've never gone to a fashion show at Galeries Lafayette, or a Jim Haynes dinner, or to the Caveau de la Huchette, or to the Moulin Rouge.

All of those things are now on my list of things to do-- Thanks!

I also loved hearing about your experience at the Soufflé, and oh yes, I've put Catherine's on my list, too.

And, more importantly, my brother-in-law and sister-in-law were planning to stay at the Minerve over Christmas, and my SIL would have just died at the mice and other pests!

I emailed them this thread, and now we're all planning to rent an apartment together instead. I think they'll be MUCH happier!

And I can't believe you were sitting on the plane with the Buena Vista Social Club! I would have gone crazy-- I just love them. (Unfortunately, most of my favorites have died.)

Anyway, great report! Thanks so much for taking the time to tell all about it and to post your pictures.

LoveItaly

Oh SeaUrchin, you always have such great adventures! No doubt because you are so much fun.

BTW, I love the fantastic photo of your pretty foot with the sunglasses, quite creative.

Imagine you didn't feel creative when you tapped and cut open the raw egg however, lol. Sounds like something I would do

Thanks so much for sharing your trip, truly an enjoyable and fun trip report.

mclaurie

Wonderful photos and great report. Sounds like a terrific trip. Green with envy but not about the mouse.

Nikki

Thanks for keeping up with the report even though you thought nobody was reading it. Sometimes it can seem that way, but people are really enjoying it without feeling they have anything to add. In any event, I loved your descriptions and it sounds like a wonderful trip.

And, having been awakened on occasion by a cat chasing a mouse through my bedroom (in my own house in the woods!) I am smiling at your reactions to the critters amongst us.

SeaUrchin

I didn't want to leave it half finished so you got it all ! Glad you stuck with me and thanks for the kind words.

I know what you mean about responding to a report, I, too try and let the writer know I am reading their posts but sometimes I read and then forget to encourage! I think reports are a main part of keeping Fodors interesting.

Cheers! and thanks again.

TexasAggie

Great pictures, SeaUrchin! Thanks for posting What a delightful way to spend my Friday morning at work.

Nina66

SeaUrchin, we will be flying Unted, SFO - FRA and then, like you, Lufthansa to CDG. Did you have to go through security again at FRA? If our flight is on time, we will have about an hour and a half between flights. As it will be the Saturday, before Christmas, around noon, so we expect mucho travelers.

Lufthansa told me that they only allow an 18 pound carryon, one piece only, no purse etc.. United said that they have to honor the carryon policy of the carrier that flies you over the Atlantic, which in this case is judged by the size, not the weight of your carryon and one more smaller piece, purse, camera case etc..

Did you have more than that and if so, any problems with Lufthansa. My wheelie carryon weights 8.5 lbs. empty. I've used it for years with no problems. Also, United said that I didn't have to check in with Lufthansa, and Lufthansa says I do. Of course I will go by what Lufthansa says on that one - makes more sense.

Thanks,

Nina

SeaUrchin

Thanks, TA.

Well, Nina, I do love Lufthansa and fly on them whenever I can. I find they are the most service oriented of any of the airlines I have flown.

On the way over I had an hour and a half too between flights. I just resist the urge to stroll and look at shops, eat and use the restroom between these flights and go directly to the gate at a nice brisk pace because you do have to go through checks again.

I did go with a relative who had trouble walking on one trip and we had a cart whisk us past everone in line and right to the gate.

I have had my carryon weighed when I left LAX and had to take out some water bottles but since we cant take them now I am ok in that dept. This last trip no one weighed my carryon luggage at all but I just had a purse and a tote bag, I checked in my carryon with shampoopoo, etc. and my other bag.

Have your checkin luggage go through to Paris so you don't have to bother with it.

When in doubt I would go to the Lufthansa counter, in all of my travels with them they have gone out of their way to help me.

I hope that answers your question but there are so many variables now it gets complicated.

Leely

Well, I'm gonna jump on the bandwagon and let you know I've been reading your wonderful report and that your photos are beautiful! I was especially impressed with your hotel room views and showed it to a friend I may travel to Paris with next spring.

Then I got to the part of your report where you discuss the critters...crossed that one off my list.

Thanks again, Sea Urchin.

SeaUrchin

shampoopoo? yikes!

Thanks, Leely. It is a shame about the Minerve. Although I should say I might have invited the mouse in when I left my french doors to the porch wide open all night so I could look at the view from my bed. I don't know what other hotels do about the problem.

Have fun in the Spring!

Nina66

Thanks SeaUrchin. We always check our luggage straight through if we have a connecting flight, keeping our fingers crossed that that is the 'best' way to have it arrive at our destination when we do.


Normally I wouldn't worry about the time between flights, not under my control, but since this will probably be the busiest day of the year for travel, my error, Friday, not Saturday, I am a bit concerned.

Also if for any reason we miss our connection to CDG, it would be very difficult, if not impossible to rebook to CDG for that same day/night, and gawd knows where or when we will catch up to our luggage. That's the main reason we are not checking everything through, need to have a backup just in case.

Nina

MelissaHI

Holy cow! I have been offline for a day and look how much I missed. SeaUrchin, I did the same thing with a raw egg this last trip. How embarrassing!

What a wonderful report.

SeaUrchin

thanks, still hugh, no just getting interested in photography with my new digital.

Nina, I think that is the best idea, to carry luggage with you just in case on that busy weekend. I hope you make the connection! Hope we get a trip report from you!

Melissa, the egg incident unfortunately was right after an incident with the people at the table next to us. When I went to sit down at an empty table this bully of a gigantic German speaking man walked over and stuck his belly in my face and said "that is our table." hmmmm, oh yeah, no sign of that, and this is before my morning coffee. One reason I like apartments, I don't have to deal with jerks before my coffee! I was going to say something but decided not to and just waited for another table to be cleared, too bad, right next to them. So when I cracked the egg I hoped jerk and his wife didn't see it, and they didn't thank goodness. It was pretty funny though when the egg ran down the side!