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-   -   Pays Basque, attention SPAIN afficianados: (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/pays-basque-attention-spain-afficianados-1008412/)

Robert2533 Mar 15th, 2014 01:33 AM

The Parador in Hondarribia is nice, but usually overpriced. There are several good options, especially in San Sebastian-Donostia.

Revulgo Mar 15th, 2014 03:17 AM

Something for inland Basque: weekly farmers markets near San Sebastián:
http://www.gipuzkoa.net/turismodocs/.../index_en.html

…and don't miss the Idiazábal cheese:
http://www.cheesefromspain.com/CFS/15112Idiazabal_I.htm

kimhe Mar 15th, 2014 03:18 AM

I also strongly recommend to stay more time in Belle Epoque San Sebastián, the food capital of Spain if not all of Europe. According to the world's leading chef the past decade, Ferran Adrià of now closed El Bulli, San Sebastián is the best place to eat in the world "in terms of the average quality of the food, in terms of what you can get at any place you happen to walk into".
http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandst...rink.shopping2

You have of course the famous pintxos and all the Michelin restaurants, but if you like old and rustic, I recommend to go for lunch in close by Pasajes San Juan/Donibane a couple of miles east of San Sebastián. Go here with taxi in ten minutes, bus in 30 minutes or walk here in a couple of hours along the beautiful and rugged coastline:
http://www.euroresidentes.com/eurore...s/san-juan.htm

A couple of the several seafront restaurants in Donibane:
Txulotxo with great value three course lunch Menú del día with wine included for 20€: http://www.restaurantetxulotxo.com/
Casa Cámara from 1884: http://www.casacamara.com/

And here's a couple of the most traditional pintxos bars/restaurants in San Sebastián, both are outside the most beaten track.
San Marcial/Alustiza: http://www.todopintxos.com/bares/bar..._bar&id_bar=99
Casa Vallés: http://www.barvalles.com/

All about going for the famous pintxos in San Sebastián, with suggested bar routes etc: http://www.todopintxos.com/home/home.php

laneharlan Mar 15th, 2014 04:56 AM

Cathy- I believe you are right. I'm editing the itinerary to include more time in San Sebastián.

Kimhe and revulgo: what fantastic suggestions! I appreciate them very much and look forward to eating all the amazing food.

laneharlan Mar 15th, 2014 05:53 AM

New trip itinerary:

Day 1: Bayonne

Day 2: Ascain, Sare, Ainhoa, Espelette, Biddaray- sleep in St. Jean pied de terre

Day 3: St. Etienne de baigory (wine), drive les Aldudes, St. Pee sur nivelle, sleep in Donostia San Sebastián

Day 4: San Sebastián

Day 5: day trip to Hondarribia. Sleep in San Sebastián

Day 6; Bilbao

Day 7; Bilbao

Day 8: day trip to Bermeo and the coast. Sleep in Bilbao

Day 9; fly Bilbao to London

*Any suggestions?

laneharlan Mar 15th, 2014 06:00 AM

Correction *st. Jean pied de port

JulieVikmanis Mar 15th, 2014 07:00 AM

You are getting pretty close to having your itinerary set so this may not be the best time to suggest variations. I also have to admit that I know little about the areas you are intent on exploring inland but for myself I have an obsession with seaside villages and would choose to stay your first two nights in St. Jean de Luz on the coast in France. We found it a delightful town and intend to stop there on our next trip to the area whenever that is. I would think you could easily do day trips to the places you want to see in the area and have the advantage of a very cute and somewhat larger town for your evening dinners.

Wherever you stay in that area be sure to try the hake neck grilled over wood outdoors. We found it a mind blowing experience. Enjoy your trip. And definitely get started planning a couple more--one to the Rioja wine area and another to Asturias and Cantabria. Spain is a wonderful country.

CathyM Mar 15th, 2014 08:43 AM

I'd consider swapping a day in Bilbao for San Sebastián (day 6). With the extra day in San Sebastian tou could just hang out in San Sebastian or do a daytrip - Pamplona, Olite, Tolosa, Zarautz, etc.....Then on day 7 drive from San Sebastián to Bilbao and stop at some of the coastal villages along the way - Getaria and Lekeitio are much nicer than Bermeo. Or visit Lekeitio and Gernika with a stop in the Oma forest just outside Gernika. You could then visit Getaria as a daytrip on day 6 from San Sebastian. Getaria is where you can dine on the robadallo (turbot) grilled outside at a seaside restaurant. Turn in the car on arrival in Bilbao. You won't need it and parking is expensive. You'd have a full day 8 to explore Blbao which is good.

If you want to keep the 3 nights in Bilbao I'd use day 6 and do the drive suggested above for Day 7. Then on day 7 visit Bermeo and the coast including san juan de gaztelugatxe. Then you could get rid of the car at the end of day 7 and save on rental costs and parking.

What time of year is this trip?

kimhe Mar 15th, 2014 11:22 AM

CathyM's idea of stopping in for example Getaria on your way to Bilbao is excellent. Getaria is nice in itself, and I had the meal of my life in one of the restaurants in the small harbour in 1996, and they still do it exactly the same way. Something like this: http://www.thepauperedchef.com/2007/...-in-getar.html

About small and very nice fishing village Getaria, home of the crisp dry and a little sparkling local txakolí wine: http://www.spain.info/en/que-quieres...s/getaria.html

Getaria video clip, gives you a good idea: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNr7gHkDtGU

Txakolí is a must: http://www.saveur.com/article/Wine-a...s-Coolest-Wine

IMDonehere Mar 15th, 2014 11:56 AM

I bought a beautiful boina in San Sebastian/Donostia last time I was there at Elósegui.

laneharlan Mar 15th, 2014 01:17 PM

Cathy- Mid May of this year...let me look into you and Kimhe's suggestions, I feel as if I'm being guided into a better direction. Thank you for your input. This trip planning is exciting and coming together so nicely with all of your help!

Will repost a new itinerary once I do some research on your suggestions

ekscrunchy Mar 15th, 2014 01:17 PM

saving

Micheline Mar 15th, 2014 05:05 PM

I also think you need more time in San Sebastián. We also loved Hondaribbia. Stayed in the same square where the Parador is but for a fraction of the price with the same wonderful view. I think it was San Nicolas hotel. There was a wedding celebration with Basque dancers right under our window. From there you can take a 15 minute boat ride to the French side.

noe847 Jul 18th, 2015 10:06 AM

@ kimhe, we are just back from a trip to Spain and France that included a short foray into the Basque Coast of Spain. We stayed one night in Getaria and also had the best fish meal of our lives in a restaurant on the harbor, with a view of the fishing boats. Spectacular!

kimhe Jul 18th, 2015 10:50 AM

noe847,

Very glad to hear that. You'll recognize both Getaria and the special seafood spirit in this fabulous and fun video (after 7:40 mins): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dqdjeGqnVKc

noe847 Jul 18th, 2015 04:24 PM

that's great, kimhe, thanks for the reminder of Getaria!

alvamo Jul 20th, 2015 04:23 PM

I love Vitoria / Gasteiz the capital of the vasque country, small place very green https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z2ZkrZ8NI5Y


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