Patrick's trip report -- part 4 Sardinia
 

If Corsica is mainly lush and green (and it was so, suprisingly so, then Sardinia is brown and rocky. At least that was our initial observation upon departing from the ferry between Bonifacio, Corsica and Santa Theresa, Sardinia. It seemed amazing that the two islands so close together could look so different.<BR><BR>We drove to Palau and took the ferry (every 10 or 15 minutes -- and the trip is about the same length) to La Maddalena. Some of you may remember numerous posts I made last spring trying to book a hotel there and nearly giving up before one kind Fodorite in Europe actually called the hotel for me.<BR>We got off the ferry just before noon and we were stunned by what we saw. The town isn't huge, but certainly much larger than I had expected. But it was absolutely desolate. It was as if a bomb scare was in progress. Where was everyone? This was July 18 -- and we had been warned about the horrendous crowds we'd encounter. We found our hotel, the lovely Hotel Garibaldi slightly up a hill from the center -- no views, not on the water, but a most pleasant small hotel with one of the most practical rooms I've encountered, including a huge long, low counter where you could leave up to three suitcases open and not be in your way.<BR>We had missed breakfast that morning catching the early ferry, so we were starved. We headed down the hill to the center of town and couldn't find restaurants. There were none lining the little fishing harbour and we had already noticed when we got off the ferry, there weren't really any lining the waterfront there either. We happened upon a restaurant that was at the top of my "recommended" list -- La Grotto. We sat down outside -- now close to 1:00 and had a wonderful meal. They recommended their Sardinian seafood appetizer platter which was simply fantastic -- many unusual and all tasty items, some we'd probably prefer not to know what they were. This was followed by an amazing spaghetti with seafood. Great meal, but oddly enough we were virtually the only people there! We were tired and that is the day we both decided to do something we never do -- take a nap. We returned to the hotel, wondering what we were going to do in this deserted place for three nights, and proceded to pass out for several hours.<BR>At four or five in the afternoon, we got up and headed back "downtown". Unbelievable. There were hundreds of people everywhere. Where had they all come from? I have traveled in Italy and Spain and am used to the idea of afternoon siestas, but I had never witnessed anything like this. It was as if there was absolutely nothing open in the early afternoon and suddently the entire town came to life. The neatest thing was that these people were clearly locals. Other than a few smallish resorts scattered around the island, there are practically no hotels on the island. This was a true working, breathing small town that had a holiday feel to it.<BR><BR>That evening there was a concert on the main square, another evening a chorale group on the church steps. All over town things were happening -- a night market, an antique fair, a little combo playing in Piazza Garibaldi (yes everything on this island is named for their favorite son, Guiseppe Garibaldi).

The next two days were spent exploring the area. We did a full day drive to the sights of the Costa Smerelda and Porto Cervo. It left us cold. There were fabulous upscale resorts and we had lunch in a perfectly planned little development called Porto Rotunda. We felt like we were in Boca Raton, Florida. There was no feeling of being in Italy -- guess we like that crumbling, slightly gritty atmosphere better than the all glimmering new stuff.<BR><BR>We really enjoyed driving around the islands of La Maddalena, the main one and Caprera, attached by a tiny rickety causeway that only allows one way traffic. This almost desolate island is dotted with little beaches and the people flock there to lay around crystal clear lagoon like waters. But the main feature on Caprera is the house and museum of Guiseppe Garibaldi. Unfortunately you can only go with the guided tour which was only in Italian --sometimes they do it in English, apparently, so we didn't get a whole lot out of it, except to revel in this idyllic little spot where this man had lived and worked for many years.<BR><BR>But our favorite times there were the evenings. We couldn't wait to get back down to Piazza Garibaldi about 5 each evening and spend the entire night looking for a restaurant to enjoy, having drinks, moving about watching the various entertainment, and simply people watching. I don't know what town I've ever been to that had a feel quite like this one, and it was as if we were outsiders allowed to take part in this nightly tradition. Later we would find some other similar places in Southern Italy -- more about those later.<BR><BR>We moved on for three nights in Alghero at the Hotel Catalunya. Suggestions here had indicated that this hotel might not be too great, but we had reserved a top floor "junior suite" which was gigantic -- separate living room really and a balcony about 25 feet long facing the harbour. Although they had promised garage parking, they told us the garage was full -- it remained full every day and we overheard others ask to be told the same thing. No problem, we kept finding the same spot every day right on the street around the corner.<BR><BR>

Alghero was an OK city, nothing exceptional, but the old city was quite picturesque and offered the usual assortment of wonderful small restaurants. We used the town as a base to explore. The drive out to Capo Caccio was spectacular and near there we found the small boat that will take you around the point and into a grotto accessible only by the boat or by coming down about a zillion stairs from the cliffs above. We were glad we had opted for the boat. Grotta di Nettuna was interesting -- a full-fledged caverns filled with formations and we took a tour (the only way you can get in) that leaves on the hour only and returns nearly an hour later, as there is only one path in and out.<BR><BR>The other day we started off on a "mountain" drive, but got to Sassari and ended up spending most of the day there. Not sure why, nothing special, we just enjoyed being in a "city" for a change. I remember Sassari as the town in Italy where we ordered wine with lunch -- no list, just the waiter's recommendation -- and he arrived with and UNSCREWED the cap. Never even knew that Italy knew what screw caps on wine were. The wine was as bad as we expected. <BR><BR>The highlight meal in Alghero was at Al Tuguri with a very traditional Sardinian meal. <BR><BR>This was also a laundry stop and we dropped our laundry off at a local place one morning to pick up that evening. It was literally the entire contents of both our suitcases except for the clothes we had on. We picked it up neatly ironed and folded (yes, I think even the socks) and wrapped in paper in three huge bundles. The cost was 40 euro.<BR><BR>

Our final stop was for two nights in Cagliari. This was originally to be the "necessary evil" of the trip as we would be taking the overnight ferry with the car from there to Palermo. But we liked this city.<BR><BR>Cagliari is again a working city -- and a major university one, not much of a tourist town, but it has its attractions. The gateway to the old city on the hill is absolutely monumental and the tiny streets of antique shops up there were interesting. The cathedral was simply beautiful -- not overpowering. There is a splendid old Roman amphitheatre there. They were ready to open Rigoletto there the night we were to leave -- would have loved to have seen it there in that splendid setting. <BR><BR>We drove to the southeast corner of Sardinia and the smallish fishing village of Villasimius on our final day (we had until early evening before catching our ferry). The coastal road was breathtaking, but Lee began saying I had really put him to the test on this trip. We had driven miles and miles of tiny winding mountain and coastal roads and I think it was beginning to wear. <BR><BR>Cagliari is filled with wonderful restaurants in an area near the harbour and we had trouble picking which ones to do, but our favorite was Antica Hosteria, filled with antique paintings on deep rose colored walls and serving what else? -- spectacular seafood. Our hotel was the Regina Margherita, a large, modern business sort of hotel which was really very, very nice and had indoor parking, a necessity in this city. The location was perfect, right in the center of town and just steps from the harbour and all the wonderful restaurants. <BR><BR>We had spent nine days covering Sardinia and enjoyed all of it. We certainly didn't get a chance to do all we'd like, but we moved on, satisfied that we had put a big dent it in and enjoyed all that we did. <BR>

Patrick: Tell us about the ferry trip from Cagliari to Palermo: quality of accommodations, cafeteria, public areas, timeliness, crowded? etc.

Patrick: Tell us about the ferry trip from Cagliari to Palermo: quality of accommodations, cafeteria, public areas, timeliness, smooth sailing, crowded? etc.

OK. It was horrible!! That about sums it up.<BR>We had to be in line at 4:00 for a 7:00 departure. We left about 8:30. We were entertained by the port crew and the captain arguing about how many trucks they were going to put on. Apparently they fill up the ferry from the long line of trucks waiting to take goods to Palermo. Loading these trailers takes a lot of effort, and although all the passengers and cars were on time, we had to wait and wait for those to be loaded. The captain was screaming at them that he had a schedule to keep, but the union bosses came and talked with him and calmed him down. (This was all being translated for us by an Italian on the deck with us).<BR><BR>The boat was jammed -- including a couple of hundred soldiers (national guard?). There were not all that many cars, but lots and lots of people. There was absolutely no place to sit on the boat. We scouted around through the lounges and decks and could not find a single seat that wasn't taken. It was difficult to even wander through the ship as there was luggage everywhere and people bedding down for the night in every nook and cranny. We tried to stand on the deck at the rail for awhile but the outside decks were just as crowded as inside. When we couldn't find any place to sit after dinner, we just gave up and went to bed.<BR><BR>Surprisingly we were able to get into the very small but better restaurant. We sat with a businessman/contractor (as he put it, he builds palaces) who lives in Sicily and commutes weekly to Sardinia. The food was decent and we enjoyed talking for a couple of hours with this man -- getting lots of "local" political opinions about the state of Italy.<BR>Our cabin (I refuse to call it a stateroom) was tiny and cramped with a miniscule bath, shower over the toilet and sink. It was relatively clean, but my sheets had holes in them, and I got my foot stuck going through one of them.<BR><BR>The best part was that we arrived on time -- they made up for the delay and the unloading was incredibly quick and efficient. We were nearly the first ones on, and were actually the very last car off, but still it couldn't have been more than 20 minutes after docking.

Patrick: would you take the ferry again, or fly between Cagliari and Palermo?

Well, considering we had a lease car for 60 days, we didn't have much choice about flying. It was a single night and I was able to sleep, so I survived. But it's nothing I'd care to repeat. If it weren't for the car situation then flying would be the way to go, but if I were doing this trip over again, I'd still do the ferry.<BR><BR>Incidentally we also did overnight car ferries to and from Bari/Dubrovnik (more about this in a later report) and that experience was equally bad. I just regard it as an inconvenience of the itinerary we were doing.

ttt

Great report, Patrick!!!<BR>How would you compare Corsica and Sardinia, and which one did you prefered?

Patrick,<BR>Were you allowed to take your leased car into eastern Europe?

I generally refuse to answer those "favorite" place or "which one did you prefer" questions. Other than a few places I may not care for, I usually accept each place as being unique and different. Hard to draw favorites. And I really would say it was a toss-up between Corsica and Sardinia. We had a great time in both. I will say, I thought Corsica was more beautiful scenically than Sardinia, however.<BR>No problem with Auto France. We had checked on taking the car to Slovenia and Croatia and neither was any problem for them at all.

bringing this one up to add to the others.

ttt