Sue

I won't bore you all with the touristy things we did on this trip. I'll just post some information.<BR><BR>HEIGHTENED SECURITY<BR>They are pulling people out of lines for random security checks everywhere - while you are waiting to check your bags, go through security, and get on the plane. I was pulled out of line in Chicago for a random wanding and my bra triggered the wand so the female guard had to pat me down and actually cupped me to check my bra! Up to that point I had seen people being pulled behind screens, but my cupping happened in front of the entire terminal. Luckily that was on the way home so I was too tired to care.<BR><BR>PARIS SHUTTLE<BR>Called the toll-free number - didn't need any coins. The dispatcher answered and immediately started speaking French rapidly. I was still shaking off my sleeping pill and rudely said "English" and she immediately switched. I kicked myself for that one. We had to walk outside the terminal and waited for a bit until the van showed up, which was clearly marked "Paris Shuttle." Highly recommend their service.<BR><BR>HOTEL D'AUBUSSON<BR>The location is terrific - close to the river, metro stop, ATM, and restaurants. A little pricey, but we were guaranteed a non-smoking room. The room itself was unremarkable but modern and had all the amenities - robes, thick towels, wash cloths, hair dryer (lame though), and a hook so you could hang up the hand-held sprayer to make a stand-up shower. The staff was just incredible. Being in our late forties, the St. Germain area is a bit too bohemian for our taste. I think I would try another area next time. There were lots of younger people out on the streets at night and the sidewalks were very narrow, which made it hard to walk around.<BR><BR>On rainy evening we spent a few hours listening to the jazz pianist in the lobby bar - very cool. Didn't eat in the hotel restaurant, but ordered breakfast to our room on the last morning - very expensive and not as good as the breakfast we had at Cafe Buci at the corner.<BR><BR>LA SAMARITAINE<BR>This department store has the best observation deck - no lines and you can sit and have a beer while you check out the city. There is a map along the railing so you can identify the things you are looking at.<BR><BR>LA ROSE DE FRANCE<BR>24, place Dauphine, Ile de la Cite'<BR>We just wandered into a little square that had several cafes and this was the one we chose. The meal was good but not spectacular. What I loved was the area. In the center was a triangle-shaped park where we watched a dog wander about for a good hour. Turns out his master was eating dinner in one of the cafes. The little dog never left the park until his master came to get him. My husband used his fractured French and the waiter used his fracture English and we were fed. Lovely evening.<BR><BR>CLOTHING<BR>The first day we were there is was blistering hot and after that it was cold and rainy. Women were wearing jeans jackets with everything and those bowling-style shoes. We were so tired on the hot day that I failed to notice what people were wearing. I did notice that the styles were all over the place and I saw every conceivable type of dress. I did envy those women and men who managed to tie their sweaters around their necks in such a fashionable way - mine was just knotted. One woman's sweater sleeves seemed to be braided around her neck.<BR><BR>If I had to do it again, I would have taken a different rain coat. Mine was ankle length and most that I saw just went to the knee. I would have taken a jeans jacket for the cold days and definitely bought more colorful shoes. This trip has given me the courage to buy some colorful shoes - my closest is full of black shoes.

Sue

BATH'S<BR>9 Rue de La Tremoille<BR>This was our splurge dinner. I didn't want to go somewhere where my husband needed a tie. This is a newer restaurant and the food was incredible. Read about it at http://www.patriciawells.com/reviews/iht/2000/0701.htm<BR><BR>L'ARBUCI<BR>25 rue de Buci<BR>Went here thinking they had a jazz group playing while you ate but the jazz club is separate and downstairs. The meal itself was terrible.<BR><BR>JAZZ CLUBS<BR>Le Bilboquet, 13 rue St-Benoit<BR>Saw a jazz trio there. The bar area is cloaked in red velvet. <BR> <BR>La Baiser Sale', 58 rue des Lombards<BR>Saw a quartet with sax - the drummer was amazing. The bar itself is small with the band playing upstairs in a non-smoking room! There are no windows and I can't imagine it on a hot night but it was cold the night we were there. There are two other clubs right next door, Le Sunset and Le Sunside, so this is a cool place to go.<BR><BR>CAFE' DE FLORE<BR>172, boulevard St-Germain<BR>LES DEUX MAGOTS<BR>6, place St-Germain-des-Pres<BR>What great people-watching places. We had beers here in the afternoon and just relaxed. We did have breakfast one morning at Les Deux Magots and it was pretty good. I was just amazed at the professionalism of the waiter. He had half the restaurant to service and he was an efficient machine. I don't think I'd eat at these places, but definitely stop and have a drink.<BR><BR>WAITERS<BR>I just couldn't get over the professionalism of these people. This is a career and it showed. Luckily my husband speaks a little bit of French so we were taken care of very well. <BR><BR>LEON DE BRUXELLES<BR>Oh my goodness! This was the best meal of my entire life - I just love mussels - and it was inexpensive. We ate here on our last day on a whim and I wish we had tried it on day one.<BR><BR>BOFINGER<BR>7 rue de la Bastille<BR>Fabulous meal but we ordered way too much saurkraut. While we were waiting in line to speak to the maitre' D, a very rude American woman behind me was giving her husband a real hard time about not being aggressive enough to plow through the line to get to the front - "We have a reservation!" Well, lady, so did we and I had to physically block her from getting around me. We waited patiently in line while the people in front of us put their names in for a wait - one hour. My husband spoke his little bit of French to the maitre' D and we were whisked into the dining room directly under the coveted glass dome. I didn't see the rude American couple who stood behind us; I can only hope they were taken upstairs. I ordered Jambon something, which turned out to be a giant hamhock on a plate with some gravy and a few potatoes. Very plain but cooked extremely well. My husband had sausages and kraut. It was a great meal and I would return.<BR><BR>EUROSTAR TO LONDON<BR>Took a taxi to the Gare du Nord - great train station. Had first class tickets so we got a meal, which was terrible. The train ride was smooth. Couldn't tell we were going into the Chunnel without the conductor announcing it. Got off the train in Waterloo Station and took a cab to the hotel.<BR><BR><BR>

Sue

<BR>DORSET SQUARE HOTEL<BR>39 Dorset Square<BR>This hotel is away from the center of things, but is close to the underground, ATM, Starbucks, and stores. Our room was amazing, small but beautifully decorated. The bathroom was high-class, marble walls and floors, mahogany trim, robes, good quality hairdryer, and thick towels and washcloths. The service was impeccable and I would definitely stay there again.<BR><BR>BANK ALDWYCH<BR>1 Kingsway<BR>Went here after seeing Proof with Gwynneth Paltrow. It was a Monday night and the place still had business men eating dinner. The food was very good and artfully presented. I thought it was a good value - not fine dining but good. I would go there again.<BR><BR>RULES<BR>35 Maiden Lane<BR>Very good dinner - not big on game myself (the menu warns of buckshot in the meat). Nothing vegetarian for sure. I don't think I'd return to this place but I was happy with the meal.<BR><BR>BRANDS HATCH<BR>I wrote a separate post about this racing experience. My husband just loved it.<BR><BR>SMOKING<BR>Only experienced a problem once during the entire trip. At a small sidewalk cafe in London a Swiss young man blew smoke that because of the wind went right into my face. No where else did we experience any bothersome smoke - not even in the jazz clubs in Paris. I was quite surprised as I am highly allergic.<BR><BR>RUDENESS<BR>The only rude experiences I had were with other Americans. Both the French and the British were quite kind and gracious. I caught myself being rude a few times by forgetting the "Bonjour" in Paris.<BR><BR>MADONNA<BR>Had the pleasure of seeing her play "Up for Grabs" in previews and it was fabulous. <BR><BR>HEATHROW<BR>We took the Heathrow Express from Paddington Station. There are no signs to tell you which terminal your airline is in as you get off the train. We lucked out and headed for the right one. I'd find that out before you go. Those who had to go to terminal 4 had to stay on the train - we didn't know if that was us or not.<BR><BR>THANKS<BR>Thanks to everyone on Fodor's for helping me plan this trip. I gained a lot of valuable information from all of you and I hope this post gives back.

mike sullivan

Susan...Thanks for some great info on your visit. My wife and I leave for Paris in about 10 days and I was hoping to get the address of a couple of the spots that you mentioned in your posts, if you've got a spare minute or two. <BR><BR>Specifically, La Samaritaine, Hotel D'Aubusson, and Leon De Bruxelles. We too loved their musseles and chips during our last visit to France. We've also paid for a round trip tickets using the Paris Shuttle to our Hotel in the Latin Qtr. I was wondering exactly where, and when, at CDG did you made that toll free call to the Shuttle office in order to have someone meet you with the van. And finally, did you need to exchange cash at the airport in order to have cash/Euro's as a tip for the driver? Thanks for any info you can provide us to make what is normally a hectic airport arrival more comfortable and stress free. I had to start off a vacation by feeling that I've gotten ripped off before I start the vacation. Again.... Merci beau coup. Mike Sullivan Fallbrook Ca

mike sullivan

Sorry for the typo...meant to say I "hate" to start off a vacation by feeling I've gotten ripped off.......adios

Sue

Mike,<BR>La Samaritaine vue du Pont Neuf - you can't miss it - it's enormous and right on the river<BR><BR>Hotel D'Aubusson<BR>33 rue Dauphine in the St. Germain area<BR><BR>Leon De Bruxelles - http://www.leon-de-bruxelles.fr/gif/ou/paris.htm - they are everywhere.<BR><BR>Paris Shuttle - called from the pay phones next to the baggage carousel. They said which exit to go out of - sorry that I don't remember but I think it was exit 8. <BR><BR>We exchanged $150 at the American Express Travel office before we left for Paris - I didn't want to wait in line at CDG. In fact, we had to wait for 15 minutes while the other passengers exchanged their dollars at CDG. After that we just used the ATM near the hotel.<BR><BR>You will have a great time!

Sue

Susan, a great trip report (I just love anecdotes)! You said Madonna was great; how about Gwyneth? I'd heard those tickets were hard to get. I love Place Dauphine and ate at Rose de France about 10 years ago and loved it, mainly for the square, as you said.<BR><BR>Mike, you can find Leon de B's addresses (there are 13 in Paris) at this website:<BR>http://www.leon-de-bruxelles.fr/gif/ou/paris.htm<BR><BR>La Samaritaine is on the right bank of the Seine at the Pont Neuf.

mike sullivan

Thanks to both Sues. Folks like you make traveling a little easier and your info gives you some idea's on what to look forward to. I'll try to follow up after our visit with some good recommendations of my own..thanks again

Sue

Sue,<BR>I ordered my tickets to those plays as soon as I heard about them. My tickets for Madonna's play arrived after we left the US but my sister-in-law fed-exed them to our hotel.<BR><BR>Proof, with Gwyneth Paltrow was fabulous. The Donmar Warehouse is very intimate and even though we were in the balcony we were very close to the actors. Everyone was amazing - I could see the tears on her face. She was remarkable.<BR><BR>For Madonna, were were in the balcony also and it was a much bigger theater. I had trouble hearing her at first but it got better. The set was amazing and so were the actors.

Madonna

to the top!

xxx

topping for Fran

theatre

The kindest review of Madonna that I've seen was by Michael Billington.<BR><BR>Http://www.guardian.co.uk/Archive/Article/0,4273,4420499,00.html<BR><BR>He said that she is not positively bad: just technically awkward. Other reviews have been far worse.<BR><BR>Basically, tickets will be sold just to see Madonna not because either she or the play are much good.<BR><BR><BR>

Sue

Just saw this was topped.<BR><BR>Theatre, I'll have to agree with that. She was technically awkward but not awful. I thought the set was brilliant. The other actors were very good and overall a pleasant evening. I don't feel like I wasted my money at all.

jason tilbury

Sue nice report , great writing style & humour<BR><BR>mike contact [email protected]<BR>& mention Fodors for a cheaper price

Sue

Thanks Jason!<BR><BR>My friend told me that they spent $80 taking a cab from CDG to the same hotel that we stayed at in Paris. I prefer taking a cab, but that is a bit much so we endured the wait for Paris Shuttle. I would do it again for sure.