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Songdoc Oct 13th, 2012 11:06 AM

Paris: What Area to Stay? Is it "Walker-Friendly?"
 
Hi --

I haven't been to Paris in almost 40 years -- and with my horrid memory, I might as well have never been there. Besides, when I was there, virtually every museum was on strike.

Now ... DP and me (gay men, 56 & 60) are planning 4 or 5 nights following a business commitment in Ireland. That means we're stuck with late Feb./early March.

We're not fussy about hotels but we are somewhat budget conscious, so will likely book through Priceline or Hotwire.

We'll want to see the standard tourist sites: the Louvre; Notre Dame; Eiffel Tower; the Parthenon (KIDDING!). Also the catacombs.

Are there areas that would be more centrally located for us? There are sooo many "zones" to choose from on Priceline & Hotwire.

Is Paris easy to get around on foot? Are the tourist attractions relatively near each other? We love walking (but it will be cold).

One other question ... we don't speak a word of French (other than "bonjour," "ooh, la, la" and "oui"). Will it be difficult for us to communicate? My recollection is that 40 years ago, no one seemed able (or willing) to speak English.

Thanks for you help!

adrienne Oct 13th, 2012 11:37 AM

If you stay in the 5th or 6th you'll be very close to the Louvre, Notre Dame, and the Pantheon. This is an area with lots of cafes and restaurants and a lively area where there are people on the streets throughout the evening.

Paris (like every city I've been to) is very walkable. Public transportation is also good for when you need to go a bit farther.

You don't need to speak French in Paris as English is the second language in much of Europe for people dealing with tourists but learning a few words would be polite.

mamcalice Oct 13th, 2012 12:11 PM

If you stay in Arrondisements 1-8, you will be fairly centrally located and able to walk to most of the tourist sights. We prefer the 6th but all are pretty well located.

You can walk most everywhere in the central part of Paris but the Metro and the bus system are very easy to use, too.

No need to speak French but learning phrases of greeting and other commonly used phrases is appreciated by the French.

In addition to the Louvre, Notre Dame and the Eiffel Tower, include Ste. Chapelle, the Orangerie where Monet's waterlily murals are housed, and many other sights. Get a good guide to plan your visit.

Rastaguytoday Oct 13th, 2012 12:15 PM

Take a look at http://www.venere.com/france/paris/ .

Get a good map of Paris, one that you can refer to over and over again, BEFORE you even go.

This will help you a lot on accomodations.

I like sticking in the arrondisements 1-8 (think postal code).
My personal favorites for the first time traveler are 6-7.

The Metro system is close to being the best in the world, punctual, direct, cheap (for multiples of tickets) and easy to use, with a little practice.

To not get tired, my motto is sit if you can, stand if you must, and walk if you have to. That's what makes the metro so good.

I've been to Paris over 15 times (lost count)so there is too much I know for one answer.

annhig Oct 13th, 2012 12:16 PM

what adrienne said.

The 5th or 6th [arrondissements] would be ideal for your interests and give you plenty of walking. [FYI, the arrondisements spiral out from the centre of Paris like a snail's shell, starting with the 1st in the middle].

As well as Priceline you might try direct booking; for example last year we got a 50% discount by booking direct in September for a weekend in the following March. [we stayed here: http://www.hoteleurope.net/]

also no need to worry about not speaking french. Paris sees tourists from all over the world daily, and the vast majority speak less french than you do.

have a great trip!

Rastaguytoday Oct 13th, 2012 12:17 PM

Sorry, my verere link was for today.

http://www.venere.com/france/paris/ Use this one.

latedaytraveler Oct 13th, 2012 01:13 PM

Songdoc, I agree with the above posters. My preference is for the 6th. My recent TR about five days in Paris would give you an idea of how far I walked to various sites from my hotel near Pont Neuf.

No doubt, you will have to take the Metro also which I found a challenge.

Enjoy Paris…

kerouac Oct 13th, 2012 01:15 PM

I am one of those people who do not believe that it is important to stay in the center, particularly if you want to save money. Staying in the more economical outer arrondissements will add about 10 minutes to your travel time but about 30% to your savings.

tarquin Oct 13th, 2012 01:28 PM

I think you will find Paris much more user-friendly than it was 40 years ago. You are older and presumably more affluent, and the French are more familiar with dealing with tourists. My French has not improved significantly but I find it much easier to be understood these days. On the whole, if you greet shopkeepers and restaurant staff, they will treat you in a human way too.

Southam Oct 13th, 2012 02:29 PM

Following up Kerouac's advice, a more important consideration than the arrondisment itself is how close your hotel will be to a Metro station. A stop served by more than one line is particularly advantageous as it gives a choice of routes to your destinations.
Also screen for hotels with Internet connections, preferably free WiFi. Take a small laptop or other Internet device to use for news in English, e-mails home, and on-going research. For instance, the net can sketch out the route you want to take on the Metro so you aren't standing puzzled in front of the station map being trampled by commuters.
Walking remains the best attraction the city has to offer and even you old guys could walk from one side of the centre to the other in a couple of hours. You would be walking briskly at that chilly time of year. Walk the Moufftard, one of the few remaining old streets, and also along the Canal St-Martin from the Bastille. Also consider the Promenade Plantee east of Bastille http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Promenade_Plant%C3%A9e and the tantalizaing ateliers on street level below it.

Check out Kerouac's links to his many photo-tours of the city, which are nearly as much fun as being there.

justineparis Oct 13th, 2012 09:30 PM

If you stay in the 4th, 5th , or 6th, closer to river then farther from river, you will be able to walk to most sites, (not all of course). People always say if you are near the metro you are near everything, and in a way I agree, but some people ( like me) love walking, and Paris is a great walking city, cool little surprise sites as you wander etc.

I will also suggest you consider not using a booking site, booking hotels directly is often better, any problems are easy to deal with.. .

Its so easy to do nowadays too.

Google for these hotels , they are clean, safe, central and budget to moderate prices

Hotel Diana-clean, cheap, like one block out of the chaos of the busy area of the Latin Quarter. Nice bathrooms

Hotel Eugenie -this place is so central, I enjoyed it very much, staff were nice too,

Hotel College du France- this i sthe only hotel I haven't stayed at myself, but its well reviewed

Hotel Place du Louvre ( this one is in the 1st, across from Louvre on a quiet side street but only 1/2 block from Seine and bridge to 5th)

Hotel Le Regent ( if you can afford the deluxe rooms only , the standards are the tinest rooms in Paris, and yes, I have stayed in alot of small rooms, ) The deluxe rooms are great and I love the area(6th) cafes shops right out the door.

djkbooks Oct 13th, 2012 10:28 PM

I would just say that Priceline and Hotwire are not the bargains they used to be, though you may get lucky for late Feb/early March.

Do keep an eye on TravelZoo, where I've been exceptionally lucky.

Back to Priceline/Hotwire, know that, of course, the hotel could be at the very outer edge of any of their "areas" which are drawn to include same.

You have plenty of time to learn some basic French, especially the pleasantries and essential phrases. You can do fine without, but much better with.

It's extremely easy to get around Paris. The RATP website is a magnificent resource, as are many apps if you have a Smartphone of any sort.

No, the tourists sights are not all within walking distance of one another - they're spread out. And, a Priceline/Hotwire bargain is not likely to get you in "Tourist Central" where you can walk to any of them.

Yes, it will be cold, so it's essential to have appropriate outerwear (layers) so as to be comfortable while out and about.

Songdoc Oct 13th, 2012 10:53 PM

Thank you all SO much. This is FANTASTIC information. Now it's time to start researching.

At the moment I'm in Hawaii (Kauai) and met up with a Fodorite who is staying in the same complex. I love these forums.

annhig Oct 13th, 2012 11:19 PM

Following up Kerouac's advice, a more important consideration than the arrondisment itself is how close your hotel will be to a Metro station. A stop served by more than one line is particularly advantageous as it gives a choice of routes to your destinations.>>

good point Southam.

for that reason we always try to pick a hotel within walking distance of an RER B stop as we generally arrive and leave through CDG. our last 3 choices have all met that criterion and that has made transfer from and to the airport very easy.

caboom Oct 14th, 2012 12:12 AM

Justinparis had great advice. I stay in the 4th, the Marais, near the St. Paul and Bastille metro stations, but I love to walk and prefer it to taking the metro everywhere. I suggest reading about the areas in the 4th,5th and 6th. The St. Michel stop on the RER puts you near hotels in walking distance of the river. I also agree on contacting hotels directly. That's much better than using a website like the ones suggested above because I'm guessing you don't want a hotel or dreary neighborhood that lacks all charm and convenience.

cybor Oct 14th, 2012 04:53 AM

We recently rented an apt. in the Marais section (4th). It was very close to the Hotel de Ville. Great location close to the metro, Notre Dame, the river, shops, cafes and a super market.

Taltul Oct 14th, 2012 08:51 AM

I agree that that the nearest Metro stop should be the important factor. As long as it takes you in multiple directions, it doesn't matter that you have to ride an extra 2-3 stops. We stayed at a hotel about a 5 minute walk to the Bastille stop but not in the Marais. It was more residential but had lots of shops, restaurants and cafes and it was cheaper.
We organized our sightseeing by grouping the sites. So we took the metro and then walked in the area we were visiting.

kerouac Oct 14th, 2012 09:10 AM

Being near a metro station isn't just good advice for tourists. When I bought my apartment, I chose one that is directly on an intersection with a metro station -- less than 50 meters from my front door. It really makes a huge amount of difference, especially when the weather is horrible. When it is pouring rain or freezing cold, even when you are completely equipped, the fact that you know that you will be in the metro in less than 2 minutes is sometimes what gives you the courage to go out.

nytraveler Oct 14th, 2012 09:17 AM

I am a big believer in being in the center of things. Who want to have to trek to a Metro and then ride 20 minutes before you get near anything you want to see. We typically stay in the 5th or 6th now - but close to the river - and a couple of times in the past have stayed in the 4th or the 8th (also close to river). Yes, it's important to be near a Metro - but I want to be no more than 10 minute walk to at least some of the sights.

As for speaking French - take a week and learn the basic polite phrases - it will do wonders in terms of how you are welcomed - even if everything else is done in English.

DebitNM Oct 14th, 2012 09:38 AM

I a, about to stay at a great apartment in the Maria's, the 4th. It is the same one cybor stayed in and it will be our second stay.

Perfect location, great apt, terrific owner who is easy to work with and the price is excellent.

http://www.vrbo.com/339804

DebitNM Oct 14th, 2012 09:39 AM

Arrggg! Damn iPad!

vmonk Oct 14th, 2012 10:26 AM

Hi SongDoc,
If it matters to you, the Marais neighborhood that several have mentioned here is a very hip area with a large concentration of gays and Jews. We're not hip, gay, or Jewish, but it's one of our favorite neighborhoods. It's not as centrally located as the 6th, but you'd get pretty close if you're near the metro or river.

Also, I like the Rick Steves guidebooks for first time visits. He has good tips for the major tourist sites. I used it as a refresher when I hadn't been in a while and still found it helpful.

vmonk Oct 14th, 2012 10:35 AM

Also, about walking in Paris - there are few places as pedestrian-friendly as Paris. Their metro can get you within a few minutes walk of almost any site. When the weather is good, I prefer to walk even the long distances as the city is so beautiful and looks so different during the day and at night.

When we were there a few years ago, we also used their Velibs (public bikes) and loved them. If you are comfortable biking and get some good weather, that might be an option as well. It felt surreal to zip past the Eiffel Tower on a bicycle!

And as for language, I agree to just learn the key words (hello, thank you, good bye) if you can. We found quite a mix of attitudes, but most were completely comfortable speaking English. There was only one bakery of women who puffed and got worked up about "les americains" with their "accents bizzarres" when we ordered in French, but that's all part of the fun of Paris!

rtonthego Oct 14th, 2012 10:35 AM

Whichever area you decide to stay in, besides using the metro to get around also check out Paris' excellent bus system.  I just came back from a week in Paris, where my sister and I rode the bus rather than the metro most of the time because of her mobility issues.  Very convenient and easy to use.  We stayed in the Saint Germain area and there were several bus lines that took us straight to popular tourist sights.  The transit system website has a trip planning function that can help you figure out the best way to get from point A to point B using the bus, metro and/or RER:

http://www.ratp.fr/en/ratp/r_61595/f...-way-in-paris/

denisea Oct 14th, 2012 10:35 AM

I agree that the hotel chosen should be located near the Metro and/or good bus lines. This is why we do like the 6th near the Odeon Metro station and bus stop. It is close to many famous tourist sites....an easy walk to Luxembourg Gardens, Notre Dame, Saint Sulpice and Musee d'Orsay. Plus there are sevral cafes we like right in the area.

Hotel Fleurie and Hotel Louis Ii are two in the area I would recommend. Many here recommend Hotel Bonaparte and it is well located near several Metro stations and in the same general area in the 6th.

You don't have to speak French....mine is horrible. I do know a few words and phrases, even though I know my pronunciation isn't quite right. It does help. Hello, goodbye, thank you, please, the check, please....all good to know.

And our favorite patisserie is close for our AM pain au chocolat at Gerard Mulot. Luckily, our favorite macaons are Un Dimanche a Paris which is also close by.

Good luck with planning and enjoy Paris.

Guenmai Oct 14th, 2012 10:58 AM

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...ank-thread.cfm

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...ank-thread.cfm

Jump to the bottom of the thread and then scroll up to Dec 31,2010. In that section, I have categorized the recommended hotels, by district, and have provided websites.

Happy Travels!

Guenmai Oct 14th, 2012 11:00 AM

And if you'd prefer an apartment, www.wimdu.com.

Happy Travels!

StCirq Oct 14th, 2012 02:23 PM

Paris is probably the most walking-friendly (not walker-friendly if you mean using a "walker") city in the world. Even though I know the métro and bus system like the back of my hand after more than 100 trips there, I mostly walk (well, this past trip didn't, because I was on crutches, but that's another story).

Speaking French? My impression, from visits over several decades, is that you don't really need it anymore. I speak it and never speak English when there, but I sure hear a lot of people getting by just fine in English. Just don't launch into English without a few formalities, like asking, in French, if the person you're talking to speaks English. Few things are ruder in France than just launching into a conversation in English.

We just came back from Paris and stayed this time in the 20th arrondissement - had a new perspective on Paris for sure, but didn't feel that it was any less Paris than the 7ème, where I usually stay. If you want to be close to the main sights, then yes, arrondissements 1-8 are probably best - but it really doesn't matter because the transport system is so good.
I would NEVER use Priceline/Hotwire for Paris. Contact the hotels directly for the best deals - maybe check Priceline/Hotwire in advance and let them know what "deals" you've found. Dealing directly with the hotels has always gotten me the best prices.

Bon voyage!

travelerjan Oct 14th, 2012 06:34 PM

People have given you wonderful advice ... but those who say, stay farther out,are people who are MUCH more familiar with Paris. You'll find people able/willing to answer your questions in English (if you preface with "Parlez-vous Anglais?") in restaurants, shops &hotels ... but in Metro stations or on busses you may meet with a blank stare. So I agree with most, stay close to the Center -- SPecifically Arondissement (zone) 5 or 6. With only 5 days, you don't want to waste a precious minute getting to the center.

And budget choices listed above, on a budget, I definitely would say Hotel College De France: http://www.hotel-collegedefrance.com/ ... it is NOT a hotel for Collegians... it's just that it's near the Sorbonne. If you google Hotel College de France, a map shows how very close it is to TWO key metro stations, to a key "main street," Boul' St. Germain, and to the Seine. A friend of mine stayed there with her daughter and loved it. A double with balcony is 120E ... maybe less for early Spring if u contact direct. From there you can walk to most sights or get a bus ... do consult the link cited above about getting around in paris. And enjoy your stay. Any time of year, this has to be one of the most romantic cities on earth.

Guenmai Oct 14th, 2012 08:23 PM

When I stayed at hotels, I also contacted the hotels directly. I actually would call them as I like that type of personal communication. Then when e-mail got popular, I started e-mailing.

Happy Travels!

Songdoc Oct 15th, 2012 09:40 AM

I can't thank you all enough. These are GREAT suggestions and have really put me on track.

FYI, I like to stay right in the heart of things. Regardless of how easy it is to take a train or bus, for me, there's nothing like walking out the door of my hotel and feeling like I'm already "there."

In Rome, we stayed near the Pantheon and never took any transport -- other than our feet. There were days when we estimated that we'd walked more than ten miles, and we loved doing that and really getting a feel for the city.

When I begin to narrow down choices, I'll email hotels directly and see how that compares to the sites that offer "mystery" hotels. But FYI, I've booked hotels with Priceline and Hotwire and Wotif countless times -- and have never been disappointed.

Guenmai Oct 15th, 2012 10:44 PM

Forgot to add if anyone out there needs the information. www.airbnb.com. They were around before Wimdu and seem to have higher ratings.

Happy Travels!

halfapair Oct 16th, 2012 06:54 PM

We stayed at the Hotel Relais Bosquet which is in a nice neighborhood that is quite "Walker Friendly."

http://www.hotel-paris-bosquet.com/

The hotel is right inbetween a great boulangerie and a grocery store, so it was easy to get goodies for a picnic in our room, complete with fresh baguette & wine.

Also, I highly recommend this hotel to everyone because when my husband became quite ill they arranged for a private doctor to see him in our room and then they were very kind to us after we returned from our trip the ER at the local hospital.

The breakfast was nice (and we got it for free when we mentioned the Rick Steves "Paris" guidebook. I don't know if that offer still stands, but you could check it out).

AlessandraZoe Oct 17th, 2012 01:36 AM

Songdoc--I totally agree with your take on what you want location-wise. Walking out the door and seeing makes use of your time and your senses. We, too, like staying in the Pantheon area in Rome, so I think settling yourself near Notre Dame would do you quite well.

But don't discount the Metro line advice, either. I would encourage you to have your cake and eat it, too. Decide on a hotel next to a "good" Metro/RER stop that's also close to Ile de la Cite and Ile de St. Louis, and you'll be set for any type of weather in February. The Seine is lovely no matter what; the wind along there can just kill you. Depending on the weather (and your constitution), you'd have a nice option of ride or walk.

Along those lines...We've been staying in the 7th lately, and although we've been in an apartment there our last two visits, I've also stayed several times (happily) at the Relais Bosquet. BUT I never advise people to stay there for their first visit or two. The location is out of the way and the Metro connections are tedious, although bus transport is good.

So why are we staying in the 7th? We've gone to Paris at least once a year since 1998, so unlike first timers, we're not trying to fit in the Louvre, Musee d'Orsay, Notre Dame, Eiffel Tower etc into a few days anymore. You will be.

The people who said, "Get your map out" are truly right because there are areas of the supposedly "close in" 4th, 5th, and 6th that aren't ideal in location. Using Google Streetview to "walk" the area around your hotel choices also is quite helpful.

As to the Priceline thing...
Here's the deal--many of the hotels we recommend aren't on Priceline/booking.com/Hotwire, and if they are, many would like the opportunity to avoid the % fee they must pay those website booking agencies. You have enough planning time, and you certainly can email many hotels for pricing/specials. Often the managers can describe you the exact room you would enjoy since most of the rooms vary at these hotels and can't be easily bracketed on generic websites.

Guenmai has done a good job of leading you to important information regarding those hotels (and we never thank her enough).

alihutch Oct 17th, 2012 04:41 AM

My favourite area is the Marais, feels like as real place, loads happening and not rammed with tourists, but we walked everywhere....apart from returning form the Musee D'Orsay. When we wandered near Notre Dame, I remembered how hideous it can all be with crowds and queues and nothing but tourists....
Eventually I'll do a mini trip report....

Christina Oct 17th, 2012 12:49 PM

That's interesting as I don't really like the Marais and think it is rammed with tourists. Sure, it doesn't have a super big tourist attraction like Notre Dame that people line up at (or Eiffel Tower), but there are lots of people in the streets around Place des Vosges, that pedestrian area is really full of them at times on rue des Rosiers, etc. There isn't any regular neighborhood that will have tourists lined up at things like at the major attractions, not even the Latin Quarter.

I think any area that is fairly central and near a good metro stop is fine. I don't recommend typical tourists, especially first timers, stay far out. It is just too time consuming to get around that way. I know even when I stay in Montparnasse, which I usually do, I have to plan on at least 45-60 minutes when I go to the Opera Garnier, for example, especially if I take the bus, to make sure I get there on time for a performance. And that isn't as far out as the 18th-20th arrondisements. If you transfer it takes time, and at night you may have to wait 10 minutes or so for the next metro car.

FWIW, the Hotel College de France is not named that because of the Sorbonne, there IS an actual College de France around there. It is quite well known. It is across from the Sorbonne on rue St Jacques (near rue des Ecoles). There are even lectures that are free at that institution (I remember being impressed that the actor Bill Murray attended classes there for a year or so, he speaks French).

I consider central about anything in 1-11 and the closer-in parts of 12-17 (the edges of them can get out there).

alihutch Oct 17th, 2012 01:38 PM

That is interesting Christine. We were in an apartment in Rue de Turenne and the people watching was mostly Parisienne....
We had a good meal in Café des Musées (admittedly quite a lot of folks visiting) which was recommended by the owner of the apartment.
I liked the fact that we were in an area with lots of taylors etc.

Dukey1 Oct 17th, 2012 03:10 PM

FWIW, on our most recent stay in Paris we were in a hotel that is situated within sight of two Metro stops. I was happy about that since I prefer taking the Metro or other public transport in Paris. However, as I learned (or was reminded) a lot depends on which Metro line you are on and which sights you want to visit. In our case it seemed to take forever to get where we wanted to go or we had to make several changes. On top of that the neighborhood we were in wasn't all that interesting.

On our next trip I will keep this previous experience in mind.


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