Paris Trip Report at last. The usual plus the Tuileries as a pickup joint?
Apr 15th, 2012, 03:18 PM
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Paris Trip Report at last. The usual plus the Tuileries as a pickup joint?
Friday, March 9
This trip was quite different for me as so much of it revolved around socializing. It was wonderful though, in a very different way than the all sightseeing focused trips I might otherwise have when visiting Europe. We did manage to do some sightseeing though
I flew KC-ORD-CDG on Friday, March 9. For some reason I booked flights that left me with a 5 hour layover in Chicago. It must have been cheaper! I had a late breakfast/early lunch, and then walked briskly all over the terminal, figuring I would be sitting for hours later on.
The Backrub Hub caught my eye, and I settled in for a 30 minute seated massage. Such a good idea! Relaxed, I headed back to my terminal, and looked for a grilled chicken sandwich. Someone had posted a link to an article about resetting
your body clock by stopping eating 12-15 hours before the time you want to wake up in your new time zone, then breaking the fast with breakfast at the new time. So, I needed to eat my last meal by 2 pm.
I got my sandwich, and finally just settled in for some people watching. Lots and lots and lots of women with skinny jeans or leggings and boots. Lots of school groups, and family groups getting ready to head for Paris. Everyone is in a pretty good mood.
The flight was uneventful, although my brand new TravelRest pillow would not stay inflated
(www.travelrest.com) They did quickly send me a new one when I returned home but I was disappointed not to be able to use it on the trip as my friend declared it the best travel pillow ever.
This trip was quite different for me as so much of it revolved around socializing. It was wonderful though, in a very different way than the all sightseeing focused trips I might otherwise have when visiting Europe. We did manage to do some sightseeing though
I flew KC-ORD-CDG on Friday, March 9. For some reason I booked flights that left me with a 5 hour layover in Chicago. It must have been cheaper! I had a late breakfast/early lunch, and then walked briskly all over the terminal, figuring I would be sitting for hours later on.
The Backrub Hub caught my eye, and I settled in for a 30 minute seated massage. Such a good idea! Relaxed, I headed back to my terminal, and looked for a grilled chicken sandwich. Someone had posted a link to an article about resetting
your body clock by stopping eating 12-15 hours before the time you want to wake up in your new time zone, then breaking the fast with breakfast at the new time. So, I needed to eat my last meal by 2 pm.
I got my sandwich, and finally just settled in for some people watching. Lots and lots and lots of women with skinny jeans or leggings and boots. Lots of school groups, and family groups getting ready to head for Paris. Everyone is in a pretty good mood.
The flight was uneventful, although my brand new TravelRest pillow would not stay inflated
(www.travelrest.com) They did quickly send me a new one when I returned home but I was disappointed not to be able to use it on the trip as my friend declared it the best travel pillow ever.
Apr 15th, 2012, 03:47 PM
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<b>Saturday, March 10</b>
Arriving the morning of Saturday, March 10 we deplaned, zipped through passport control and customs, and I picked up my bag all very quickly. I set off to get some cash and find the RER B. I am glad I had read some of the instructions on these boards re: finding it as it was a rather long trek and I might have given up without those tips.
I found the RER, bought my ticket, and made my way to the train. Please note that in many cases there were NOT escalators. Even though I only had one, light rollie bag, I had to carry it down many flights of stairs, and later up many flights of stairs when I arrived at my stop. In my lightly jet-lagged state, this was not welcome.
Oh, I should mention the restroom I visited before leaving for the RER. Maybe I was just jet-lagged, but I was really amused by the hot pink décor, painted or wallpapered in stripes, with what I can only describe as brothel-like embellishments.
Really, I was doing pretty well re: jet lag, but not perhaps as well as I thought as it took me days to realize that the reason I had not been able to reach the apartment management company (Glama Paris) once I arrived in Paris is that I completely forgot to drop the 0 when in Paris dialing the number. Darn it. I kept calling from the train, from the metro stop, and then when I arrived at the apartment, but no answer.
Out at the St. Michel metro stop I walk to the apartment, and since I had the door code from the contract I was able to enter the entry way with my luggage, but I could go no further. I pulled out the contract, and called the office (again, must have been the jet lag, don’t know why I didn’t think of it before!)
Within 15 minutes a lovely woman appeared with the keys, took me up to the apt, did the tour, had me sign more papers, checked and saw that the housekeeper had not come yet and called them to arrange for them to come in. All was well.
<b>The Apartment</b>
The apartment was absolutely fabulous! I would definitely stay there again. You can see it here, and, it really does look like the pictures: http://www.homeaway.com/vacation-rental/p473310
A friend was flying in from NY to meet me, and it was so much nicer to have an apt where we could sit around in the living room chatting away, then go to our respective rooms as needed.
A couple of people expressed concern about noise when they saw where it was (facing Place St. Michel and two blocks away, Notre Dame) and it was absolutely not a problem. The living room side with the windows faced in that direction, and with double-paned glass you could not hear the noise unless you opened the windows. The bedrooms were at the back, separated from the front by a hallway, and you couldn’t hear a thing back there.
It was actually really fun to watch some of the goings on out the windows—street performers, demonstrations, people gathering—and early in the morning, the street cleaners. There was also some sort of policemen setup right on the street below on many of the days that I couldn’t figure out. Policeman would just wave down drivers to pull over, then chit chat with them awhile. I never see them write tickets or anything. Hmm.
<b>The socializing begins</b>
My friend Fiona from Australia was in London, Paris, and headed to Madrid and was originally scheduled to leave Paris the week before I arrived. I apparently made such plaintive whimpering sounds that she rescheduled so that she was still in Paris the Saturday I arrived.
She arrived at the apartment around 1:00 and it was just so wonderful to see her. We chatted and watched from the window until my friend Adrienne arrived by taxi. After settling her in we headed out to get a small bite and wait the arrival of another friend and her family from Gif-sur-Yvette.
Ah, my first baguette with brie and ham, accompanied by a small lemon tart. Laure, her SO, and two children soon arrive, and as Roxane (4?) and I had done in NYC the previous June, we began sharing. I’m pretty sure Roxane got more of my lemon tart than I did.
We are just all pleased to be together, no particular plans in mind. We walked over towards Notre Dame, and the rather huge crowds there on a Saturday afternoon. We then walked towards Marche aux Fleurs, and Adrienne and Fiona peeled off to visit St. Chappelle. Laure and the children and I wandered a bit at the flower market, but soon decided that the children might be better served by a visit to a park/playground.
We walked up to a small park adjacent to Musee de Cluny (Musee National du Moyenage)
Her children are adorable (of course) as are the many other children at the park, dressed to the nines as possibly only Parisian children can be. One especially cute little girl has a white beret, red jacket, and pink shoes. It’s fun to watch the families and the kids while we catch up.
Fiona and Laure’s SO arrived, having dropped off Adrienne back at the apartment for a short rest. We crossed the street for a small coffee, then sent Olivier, Roxane and Gaston home as we were headed for a girl’s dinner out. We then set out to find a supermarche and a bakery for provisions for the apt.
Hm. Turns out we should have walked 50 yards from where we were and would have found one. Instead, we wandered all the way to Rue de Buci, purchasing flutes, wine, tea, coffee, butter and milk. It was back up Rue Saint-Andre des Arts to the apartment, with time for a nice glass of wine before heading out.
In deference to A’s and my delicate state (I still had no nap or rest at all, A was ahead of me there) we took a taxi to dinner at L’Ecluse on Place Madeleine (http://www.lecluse-restaurant-paris....madeleine.html). Lots of laughter and fine conversation, another taxi ride through the Paris night, and the first evening ends.
Arriving the morning of Saturday, March 10 we deplaned, zipped through passport control and customs, and I picked up my bag all very quickly. I set off to get some cash and find the RER B. I am glad I had read some of the instructions on these boards re: finding it as it was a rather long trek and I might have given up without those tips.
I found the RER, bought my ticket, and made my way to the train. Please note that in many cases there were NOT escalators. Even though I only had one, light rollie bag, I had to carry it down many flights of stairs, and later up many flights of stairs when I arrived at my stop. In my lightly jet-lagged state, this was not welcome.
Oh, I should mention the restroom I visited before leaving for the RER. Maybe I was just jet-lagged, but I was really amused by the hot pink décor, painted or wallpapered in stripes, with what I can only describe as brothel-like embellishments.
Really, I was doing pretty well re: jet lag, but not perhaps as well as I thought as it took me days to realize that the reason I had not been able to reach the apartment management company (Glama Paris) once I arrived in Paris is that I completely forgot to drop the 0 when in Paris dialing the number. Darn it. I kept calling from the train, from the metro stop, and then when I arrived at the apartment, but no answer.
Out at the St. Michel metro stop I walk to the apartment, and since I had the door code from the contract I was able to enter the entry way with my luggage, but I could go no further. I pulled out the contract, and called the office (again, must have been the jet lag, don’t know why I didn’t think of it before!)
Within 15 minutes a lovely woman appeared with the keys, took me up to the apt, did the tour, had me sign more papers, checked and saw that the housekeeper had not come yet and called them to arrange for them to come in. All was well.
<b>The Apartment</b>
The apartment was absolutely fabulous! I would definitely stay there again. You can see it here, and, it really does look like the pictures: http://www.homeaway.com/vacation-rental/p473310
A friend was flying in from NY to meet me, and it was so much nicer to have an apt where we could sit around in the living room chatting away, then go to our respective rooms as needed.
A couple of people expressed concern about noise when they saw where it was (facing Place St. Michel and two blocks away, Notre Dame) and it was absolutely not a problem. The living room side with the windows faced in that direction, and with double-paned glass you could not hear the noise unless you opened the windows. The bedrooms were at the back, separated from the front by a hallway, and you couldn’t hear a thing back there.
It was actually really fun to watch some of the goings on out the windows—street performers, demonstrations, people gathering—and early in the morning, the street cleaners. There was also some sort of policemen setup right on the street below on many of the days that I couldn’t figure out. Policeman would just wave down drivers to pull over, then chit chat with them awhile. I never see them write tickets or anything. Hmm.
<b>The socializing begins</b>
My friend Fiona from Australia was in London, Paris, and headed to Madrid and was originally scheduled to leave Paris the week before I arrived. I apparently made such plaintive whimpering sounds that she rescheduled so that she was still in Paris the Saturday I arrived.
She arrived at the apartment around 1:00 and it was just so wonderful to see her. We chatted and watched from the window until my friend Adrienne arrived by taxi. After settling her in we headed out to get a small bite and wait the arrival of another friend and her family from Gif-sur-Yvette.
Ah, my first baguette with brie and ham, accompanied by a small lemon tart. Laure, her SO, and two children soon arrive, and as Roxane (4?) and I had done in NYC the previous June, we began sharing. I’m pretty sure Roxane got more of my lemon tart than I did.
We are just all pleased to be together, no particular plans in mind. We walked over towards Notre Dame, and the rather huge crowds there on a Saturday afternoon. We then walked towards Marche aux Fleurs, and Adrienne and Fiona peeled off to visit St. Chappelle. Laure and the children and I wandered a bit at the flower market, but soon decided that the children might be better served by a visit to a park/playground.
We walked up to a small park adjacent to Musee de Cluny (Musee National du Moyenage)
Her children are adorable (of course) as are the many other children at the park, dressed to the nines as possibly only Parisian children can be. One especially cute little girl has a white beret, red jacket, and pink shoes. It’s fun to watch the families and the kids while we catch up.
Fiona and Laure’s SO arrived, having dropped off Adrienne back at the apartment for a short rest. We crossed the street for a small coffee, then sent Olivier, Roxane and Gaston home as we were headed for a girl’s dinner out. We then set out to find a supermarche and a bakery for provisions for the apt.
Hm. Turns out we should have walked 50 yards from where we were and would have found one. Instead, we wandered all the way to Rue de Buci, purchasing flutes, wine, tea, coffee, butter and milk. It was back up Rue Saint-Andre des Arts to the apartment, with time for a nice glass of wine before heading out.
In deference to A’s and my delicate state (I still had no nap or rest at all, A was ahead of me there) we took a taxi to dinner at L’Ecluse on Place Madeleine (http://www.lecluse-restaurant-paris....madeleine.html). Lots of laughter and fine conversation, another taxi ride through the Paris night, and the first evening ends.
Apr 15th, 2012, 06:57 PM
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<b>Sunday, March 11</b>
After a bit of a sleep in (BTW, the stopping eating 12-15 hours before the new morning seemed to work fairly well, I had some but minimal jet lag) Adrienne and I got up and walked over to Ile de la Cite to the Marche aux Fleurs which is joined by the le Marché aux Oiseaux on Sundays. I am not sure why I do this to myself when traveling, as I cannot bring home the beautiful flowers and plants, but I love it.
Lots and lots of flowers, plants, lemon and orange trees, bonsai, garden accoutrements, and even an orchid house. There are rows of beautiful birds, and their supplies, including some fabulous bird cages. Mostly I take pictures, but Adrienne buys a hand towel embroidered with lavender to take back to the apartment which is lacking a hand towel in the toilet.
From there we headed back towards Notre Dame as I particularly wanted to see the statue of Charlemagne (really spectacular, although I kept finding myself humming Steely Dan’s Kid Charlemagne). I had in mind a couple of other things, but, as we walked up to the church we saw no line and decided to take advantage, cruising right in.
Everywhere you looked was something else of beauty. We both lit candles, and quietly walked through the sanctuary at our leisure. For the most part, people were respectful, which was good to see.
After Notre Dame we stopped quickly by the apartment, then decided to head up to Musee de Cluny (Moyenage - http://www.musee-moyenage.fr/) We were both a bit hungry but only wanted a fast bite. We were waved down at a café with an offer of a free glass of wine (I decline to take responsibility for this as it was A’s decision to stop). My lunch was actually quite nice, a galette with cheese and mushrooms, and the wine of course was abominable.
It didn’t matter, we were having fun, watching people go by, enjoying our lunches.
At the museum I was most interested in seeing the Lady and the Unicorn tapestries so with limited time we split up and I beelined up to the gallery where these were hung. It was so worth it, these tapestries are incredible. The other tapestries in the museum paled in comparison to the brilliant colors in these.
Of course, having read Tracy Chevalier’s The Lady and the Unicorn prior to Paris made it even more fun. I spent quite a bit of time in that gallery as there was simply so much to look at and for in the different tapestries of which there are 6 total. It’s a small museum so I did manage to see a few more rooms before closing, including the frigadarium which fascinated me. Roman walls people!
Leaving the museum, we were looking up at the outer walls, wondering what the seashells on the walls meant. Well, I looked up how many tapestries there were in my handy dandy Fodor’s guide (wanted to make sure I was right) and read this: “symbols of the abbot’s power literally surround the building…The scallop shells <i>Coquilles-saint-Jacques</i> covering the façade are a symbol of religious pilgrimage, another important source of income for the abbot” It goes on, but hey, the guide really does come in handy sometimes. Now I know about those decorative shells mean!
After the museum we wander back over to Rue de Buci, stop at Paul’s for another flute, and stop at the market for fruit, cheese, nuts, olives, and wine. Back at the apartment we relax and nosh.
After a bit of a sleep in (BTW, the stopping eating 12-15 hours before the new morning seemed to work fairly well, I had some but minimal jet lag) Adrienne and I got up and walked over to Ile de la Cite to the Marche aux Fleurs which is joined by the le Marché aux Oiseaux on Sundays. I am not sure why I do this to myself when traveling, as I cannot bring home the beautiful flowers and plants, but I love it.
Lots and lots of flowers, plants, lemon and orange trees, bonsai, garden accoutrements, and even an orchid house. There are rows of beautiful birds, and their supplies, including some fabulous bird cages. Mostly I take pictures, but Adrienne buys a hand towel embroidered with lavender to take back to the apartment which is lacking a hand towel in the toilet.
From there we headed back towards Notre Dame as I particularly wanted to see the statue of Charlemagne (really spectacular, although I kept finding myself humming Steely Dan’s Kid Charlemagne). I had in mind a couple of other things, but, as we walked up to the church we saw no line and decided to take advantage, cruising right in.
Everywhere you looked was something else of beauty. We both lit candles, and quietly walked through the sanctuary at our leisure. For the most part, people were respectful, which was good to see.
After Notre Dame we stopped quickly by the apartment, then decided to head up to Musee de Cluny (Moyenage - http://www.musee-moyenage.fr/) We were both a bit hungry but only wanted a fast bite. We were waved down at a café with an offer of a free glass of wine (I decline to take responsibility for this as it was A’s decision to stop). My lunch was actually quite nice, a galette with cheese and mushrooms, and the wine of course was abominable.
It didn’t matter, we were having fun, watching people go by, enjoying our lunches.
At the museum I was most interested in seeing the Lady and the Unicorn tapestries so with limited time we split up and I beelined up to the gallery where these were hung. It was so worth it, these tapestries are incredible. The other tapestries in the museum paled in comparison to the brilliant colors in these.
Of course, having read Tracy Chevalier’s The Lady and the Unicorn prior to Paris made it even more fun. I spent quite a bit of time in that gallery as there was simply so much to look at and for in the different tapestries of which there are 6 total. It’s a small museum so I did manage to see a few more rooms before closing, including the frigadarium which fascinated me. Roman walls people!
Leaving the museum, we were looking up at the outer walls, wondering what the seashells on the walls meant. Well, I looked up how many tapestries there were in my handy dandy Fodor’s guide (wanted to make sure I was right) and read this: “symbols of the abbot’s power literally surround the building…The scallop shells <i>Coquilles-saint-Jacques</i> covering the façade are a symbol of religious pilgrimage, another important source of income for the abbot” It goes on, but hey, the guide really does come in handy sometimes. Now I know about those decorative shells mean!
After the museum we wander back over to Rue de Buci, stop at Paul’s for another flute, and stop at the market for fruit, cheese, nuts, olives, and wine. Back at the apartment we relax and nosh.
Apr 15th, 2012, 07:00 PM
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cigale, you'll have a bit of a wait, the pickup event happened on Thursday. It was definitely heterosexual, and I at least hope he didn't think I was a prostitute. And, it wasn't my imagination, the fella slipped me a note complete with phone number and a request to call. Can't quite figure it out, as a short, round, 50+ year old, but I am going with he was charmed by my smile and deep brown eyes.
Apr 16th, 2012, 04:38 PM
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I am so glad I read this! I wasn't planning to visit Musee de Cluny on my trip next month, but I certainly will now. I have always loved the images of the tapestries on Limoge plates, but never really focused on where the tapestries are located. Thanks!
Apr 16th, 2012, 05:47 PM
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Toucan2, I am reading your report with great interest because we will be in Paris for the first time in July/August & staying at Hotel Bonaparte. At Adrienne's suggestion, I plan on buying the Museum Pass at the Cluny Museum when we arrive. And I have tentatively scheduled in a visit to this museum; it sounds great! Christine also suggested the market on Rue Buci. What is Paul's?
what is the L'Ecluse restaurant like & its prices?
what is the L'Ecluse restaurant like & its prices?
Apr 16th, 2012, 05:52 PM
#12
"...he was charmed by my smile and deep brown eyes."
Who wouldn't be?
I won't tell you the pickup line the guy used on me in the Tuileries in 1972, but it had something to do with oversized body parts (his, not mine).
Who wouldn't be?
I won't tell you the pickup line the guy used on me in the Tuileries in 1972, but it had something to do with oversized body parts (his, not mine).
Apr 16th, 2012, 06:26 PM
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<b>Monday, March 12</b>
The day has arrived for the Fodor GTG. Yippee! But that’s later on in the evening.
A and I are getting very late starts! We don’t get to see each other much, so do find ourselves chatting until the wee hours. Eventually, though, we make our way out the door. The weather from Monday through Friday was just spectacular. Let’s just say I didn’t need the cuddle-duds I had packed.
<b>The Pantheon</b>
A wanted to visit the Pantheon, in particular to visit Madame Curie’s grave, so we made our way there. I had started noticing and making mention of all the book and record stores, including used, and vinyl records. Duh! It takes until Monday for me to realize that of course it is a university district, and like any student enclave, one must have books and music, and the ability to sell your used stuff to others. A lengthy visit will be in order later in the week to seek out CDs for my husband.
You probably know more about the Pantheon than I did; it wasn’t really on my list of places to visit. But, I did start to learn a little, including the very cool pendulum hanging from the dome. As the earth moves, you can tell time based on where the pendulum swings! Very cool. More importantly however, is that this was the pendulum that Foucalt used to prove the rotation of the earth.
The immediate space that you enter is gigantic, and mostly empty except for the pendulum. The ceilings and the interior of the dome are what pull my interest most here. And, although the weather outside is unseasonably warm, it is frigid inside the Pantheon. There are some space heaters here and there, and I keep sneaking over to warm myself.
I also think the probably 6 or 7 feet full scale model of the Pantheon with cutaway in one adjacent room was very very cool. We then descended into the crypt, and I surprisingly found this very interesting as well. (I say surprisingly because going to crypts wasn’t really on radar, but because A wanted to visit here and Pere la Chaise I found that I did in fact think this stuff was interesting.)
We checked out the Curies, Victor Hugo, Dumas, and more, reading the information boards posted here and there. And again, the building is just beautiful.
<b>A walk, lunch, some more walking</b>
Emerging from the Pantheon, my first view this trip of the Eiffel Tower! Photo opp!
So much of what you enjoy in Paris is just walking, and looking, and checking out window displays, and buildings, and people wandering along with you that it is hard to convey just how enjoyable this is when you are writing a trip report.
From the Pantheon we wandered down along the Jardin du Luxemborg, stopping at a café for lunch. A croque monsieur for me, salad for A, and people watching for all. Lots of people with their pooches, and some really cute purses and boots. More wandering through neighborhoods, crossing the Seine on Pont Neuf.
A tells me that the rounded cutouts with benches placed along the bridge were originally to accommodate musicians. Another “I did not know that!” moment. We poked our head into Place Dauphine, then continued across and up along the Seine, cutting over to Jardin des Tuileries with destination Musee de l’Orangerie in mind.
<b>Musee de l'Orangerie</b>
The museum was closed the last time I was here, so this was a priority for me. Seeing these as Monet had envisioned the installation was just, well, it appears I don’t have words to describe. The museum also changed the lighting while we were there, and it was fascinating to see how the paintings changed with the different light. And, I feel really stupid here, but I had not realized there are actually two large oval galleries with 4 paintings each. So don’t miss the second gallery (but you probably wouldn’t have anyway).
Time is working against us again, as both A and I have evening plans. A is going out with a friend of hers who lives in Paris, and I am going to meet the Fodorites! So, we have to head back to the apt to freshen up, get a little rest, and then head out again.
<b>A Fodor GTG</b>
At last! The night had arrived! Annhig and her DH were staying nearby so I met up with them and we took the Metro to Place Madeleine. Others have already reported on this, we met up at Lavinia, but moved next door to share 2 bottles of wine selected by Tomas, DH of AGMCapeCod—our resident sommelier.
A lovely interlude, then we all trekked over to Neva Cuisine, following Patty like a line of ducklings. And, the final destination was totally worth it. An excellent dinner, great service, and fabulous company. If only the evening could have continued. I can’t express enough how special an evening it was. Great to meet all of you!
The day has arrived for the Fodor GTG. Yippee! But that’s later on in the evening.
A and I are getting very late starts! We don’t get to see each other much, so do find ourselves chatting until the wee hours. Eventually, though, we make our way out the door. The weather from Monday through Friday was just spectacular. Let’s just say I didn’t need the cuddle-duds I had packed.
<b>The Pantheon</b>
A wanted to visit the Pantheon, in particular to visit Madame Curie’s grave, so we made our way there. I had started noticing and making mention of all the book and record stores, including used, and vinyl records. Duh! It takes until Monday for me to realize that of course it is a university district, and like any student enclave, one must have books and music, and the ability to sell your used stuff to others. A lengthy visit will be in order later in the week to seek out CDs for my husband.
You probably know more about the Pantheon than I did; it wasn’t really on my list of places to visit. But, I did start to learn a little, including the very cool pendulum hanging from the dome. As the earth moves, you can tell time based on where the pendulum swings! Very cool. More importantly however, is that this was the pendulum that Foucalt used to prove the rotation of the earth.
The immediate space that you enter is gigantic, and mostly empty except for the pendulum. The ceilings and the interior of the dome are what pull my interest most here. And, although the weather outside is unseasonably warm, it is frigid inside the Pantheon. There are some space heaters here and there, and I keep sneaking over to warm myself.
I also think the probably 6 or 7 feet full scale model of the Pantheon with cutaway in one adjacent room was very very cool. We then descended into the crypt, and I surprisingly found this very interesting as well. (I say surprisingly because going to crypts wasn’t really on radar, but because A wanted to visit here and Pere la Chaise I found that I did in fact think this stuff was interesting.)
We checked out the Curies, Victor Hugo, Dumas, and more, reading the information boards posted here and there. And again, the building is just beautiful.
<b>A walk, lunch, some more walking</b>
Emerging from the Pantheon, my first view this trip of the Eiffel Tower! Photo opp!
So much of what you enjoy in Paris is just walking, and looking, and checking out window displays, and buildings, and people wandering along with you that it is hard to convey just how enjoyable this is when you are writing a trip report.
From the Pantheon we wandered down along the Jardin du Luxemborg, stopping at a café for lunch. A croque monsieur for me, salad for A, and people watching for all. Lots of people with their pooches, and some really cute purses and boots. More wandering through neighborhoods, crossing the Seine on Pont Neuf.
A tells me that the rounded cutouts with benches placed along the bridge were originally to accommodate musicians. Another “I did not know that!” moment. We poked our head into Place Dauphine, then continued across and up along the Seine, cutting over to Jardin des Tuileries with destination Musee de l’Orangerie in mind.
<b>Musee de l'Orangerie</b>
The museum was closed the last time I was here, so this was a priority for me. Seeing these as Monet had envisioned the installation was just, well, it appears I don’t have words to describe. The museum also changed the lighting while we were there, and it was fascinating to see how the paintings changed with the different light. And, I feel really stupid here, but I had not realized there are actually two large oval galleries with 4 paintings each. So don’t miss the second gallery (but you probably wouldn’t have anyway).
Time is working against us again, as both A and I have evening plans. A is going out with a friend of hers who lives in Paris, and I am going to meet the Fodorites! So, we have to head back to the apt to freshen up, get a little rest, and then head out again.
<b>A Fodor GTG</b>
At last! The night had arrived! Annhig and her DH were staying nearby so I met up with them and we took the Metro to Place Madeleine. Others have already reported on this, we met up at Lavinia, but moved next door to share 2 bottles of wine selected by Tomas, DH of AGMCapeCod—our resident sommelier.
A lovely interlude, then we all trekked over to Neva Cuisine, following Patty like a line of ducklings. And, the final destination was totally worth it. An excellent dinner, great service, and fabulous company. If only the evening could have continued. I can’t express enough how special an evening it was. Great to meet all of you!
Apr 16th, 2012, 06:31 PM
#14
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Centralparkgirl, I'm glad this was helpful to you!
Kwoo, Paul's is a boulangerie. I think it is a chain of some sort, but the bread was fabulous and I was familiar with it, and this is where I bought our small flutes and baguettes throughout the visit. We also bought our flowers there in the market.
Nikki-LOL!
Kwoo, Paul's is a boulangerie. I think it is a chain of some sort, but the bread was fabulous and I was familiar with it, and this is where I bought our small flutes and baguettes throughout the visit. We also bought our flowers there in the market.
Nikki-LOL!
Apr 16th, 2012, 07:05 PM
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Kwoo,
L'Ecluse is a small chain of wine bars that are basically open all the time so good for dining at odd hours. If I recall correctly, the mains are around 20 euros or less. Because it's a wine bar, you can also eat pretty light and aren't necessarily expected to order a full meal (though you can if you want to).
L'Ecluse is a small chain of wine bars that are basically open all the time so good for dining at odd hours. If I recall correctly, the mains are around 20 euros or less. Because it's a wine bar, you can also eat pretty light and aren't necessarily expected to order a full meal (though you can if you want to).
