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-   -   Paris Trip Report (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/paris-trip-report-344977/)

Dejais Apr 18th, 2008 07:05 AM

Clio...See...not the same flight at all. We are out of TPA at 6 pm, EWR at 10 pm. I thought I would try the 10pm flight this time so that we might actually try and sleep. I can never manage sleeping on the earlier flights. You will get there first. Wave to the Eiffel for us! :)

Dejais Apr 18th, 2008 07:06 AM

Gracejoan....Looking forward to hearing about your dinner at Au Gourmand.

gracejoan3 Apr 18th, 2008 06:59 PM

Our dinner at Au Gourmand was as good as the last visit there.

I had a sweet potato soup..very good...pan seared scallops(giant ones) with mixed vegetables, Granddaughter had a fish that she really enjoyed and her husband had beef that he said excellent. I had a mango dessert that was very fancy. Nice place, atmosphere and ambience.

Weather a bit warmer...it showered while we were dining.

Off to meet a small forum get together at Mollard for lunch on Saturday. Kids will go to Montmartre.

a bientot.............

klondike Apr 18th, 2008 08:50 PM

Ooh. Can hardly wait to hear about Mollard...we are staying near there in July and was wondering if the price is worth the food/ambiance.

gracejoan3 Apr 18th, 2008 10:25 PM

Mollard is the only (I think) idependently owned belle epoch left. The food is not that great, and it is best not too try to order anything too fancy...stick to their simpler things.

Probably the fanciest of the belle epochs is Le Train Bleu. Made dinner reservations there for Monday evening. Same goes for the food there.

Chilly here today and grey outside.
A late Spring this year..last year it was hot,,never know about the weather...but we are in Paris!!

a bientot....

seafox Apr 20th, 2008 03:59 AM

gracejoan - dinner was a smashing success! I took some poetic license with your meal. Heres how it went. Plating was on antique wedgwood service plates that have a seafoam green and gold border. Using metal rings I bought in Paris, the center of each plate had a circle of jasmine rice topped with a large pinch of dried organic coconut. Around it I drizzled the mango sauce (pureed mango, butter and armangac). I grilled sea scallops and fresh pineapple and placed them around the rice and on top of the sauce. Dusted the whole plate with chopped Thai basil. Lot's of flavors, which made me nervous at first, but it worked well..... I told our guests a friend in Paris had just sent the recipe.... thanks for the inspiration!!!

Nikki Apr 20th, 2008 04:43 AM

Seafox, I want to have dinner at your house.

cigalechanta Apr 20th, 2008 07:53 AM

And I'll tag along with you, Nikki!

gracejoan3 Apr 20th, 2008 08:34 AM

I think we should all join Seafox!! Now, she sounds like a real cook!!!

An update.... I had a forum group get together of 7 people for lunch and the kids were off doing their thing, so I had just called Allard and made areservation for dinner, Nearby and fom what several had said a must do is their duck and olives!!

This place was a disaster!! The duck must be for 2, so granddaughter joined me..it was terrible..the whole meal was terrible. To top it all off..and really annoyed me...when you enter this place, it is a narrow hall facing kitchen and dining rooms at opposite ends...they take all the American(maybe others)tourists to the shabby room and the French to the other much niceer room!!

So, IMO, skip Allard!!!

We had 10:30 tickets to see the Chines Terracotta Soldier exhibition this morning. We had breakfast near there and did it. We had previously decided to go to the Marais area for more Sunday openings. Left the umbrellas at apt. as I had checked online and it said showers late tonight. Why am I so stupid as to think that French weathermen are any smarter than our weathermen!! It started raining. Granddaughter spent a bundle at Occitane and we went in to the Carnavalet Museum..that was enought..took the Metro down to Tuileries exit..granddaughter did some shopping along tourist row and then I took them in Le Meurice Hotel to nice new bar area wherre we had croque Meurice sandwiches and their club sandwich, soup and salad, beer for one, a Bailey's on ice for me and 140 euros later we headed homeward!!!

I think I forgot to tell you the best news..you will all be soooo jealous...Carolyn from Paris Perfect sent me an email that they were upgrading me to a 2 bedoom, 2 bath, 4th floor with Eiffel view apartment beginning
Wed. when my granddaughter and her husband leave. It rents for 3710 euros weekly..that is euros,not $'s!! Needless to say I am pleased!

Madelyn PP owner) is joining me for lunch at Spring on Friday.

My granddaughter checks the miles walked each day...We walked 6 miles today....don't know how much more of that this old lady can take!!!

We all feel stuffed...will see what we might do this evening..not much....

Tomorrow is Le Train Bleu so they can see what is probably the best of the Belle Epoques....don't expect great food, as I don't think it exists!

a bientot.............

klondike Apr 20th, 2008 08:51 AM

Do you suppose Le Train Bleu has updated and has A/C?
We normally enjoy La Durée on the Champs for a meal, but the last 2 times have been stifling hot and made the experience unenjoyable (darn hot flashes don't help!). I was thinking it would take be fun to take my two sons who have never experienced Belle Epoque to LTB instead.

Thanks for relaying this report-as-you-go, gracejoan. Makes the fun last longer.

gracejoan3 Apr 20th, 2008 09:43 AM

I will check re A/C..I don't travel in the summer, but A/C is needed other than the summer. Will check tomorrow!!

AGM_Cape_Cod Apr 20th, 2008 09:47 AM

Grace- how was the Chinese Terracotta Soldier exhibit? I thought I might be in London for work at the end of June and nip over to see it. Unfortunately my boss said he needed me here.

Seafox-I read your scallop description to my husband who is an armagnac fanatic. I will be looking for mangos in the market. Any tips on preparation?

gracejoan3 Apr 20th, 2008 09:59 AM

AGM

If you try for the exhibit you better get online and get your tickets ahead of time.

It is not large in Paris. I would imagine the same for London. You will see a number of staatues and horses along with pottery etc....

Some may enjoy more than others. You will probably be out within an hour.

Hope this helps.

seafox Apr 20th, 2008 12:09 PM

AGM - I never measure (clearly I'm not a baker). So let me guess at this one. I would say I melted about 4 TBS of butter in a heavy skillet. Added about 1/4 cup of armangac. flamed it very quickly and I actually doused the flame before it was done, by adding the puree of two mangos - I made it ahead and warmed it quickly in the microwave before plating....

rivoli Apr 20th, 2008 12:42 PM

gracejoan, love your report! I really appreciate it when you post the prices of a meal, snacks - it gives me an idea of what to expect.

cigalechanta Apr 20th, 2008 12:59 PM

Joan, I read that the food has improved at Le Train Bleu!

gracejoan3 Apr 21st, 2008 05:14 AM

Update....we went to a local spot for coucous last night..the kids probably enjoyed it more than I did!!

Kids are off this morning to another day at the Louvre.

I had a late breakfast at Paul's...had some places to go, and made some various arrangements for rest of week.

I went to lunch at Leon's for some moules...what more can I say!!

Met a nice French gal ther. We exchanged business cards with email addresses. I told her of some good Paris restaurants!! She is going to give them a try!!

Le Train Bleu tonight...will check out food quality and if they now have A/C..

a bientot............

hopingtotravel Apr 21st, 2008 08:18 AM

I will be interested in hearing what you think also, as I didn't know whether to just try to go there for drinks or also food.

tod Apr 21st, 2008 09:29 AM

gracejoan3 - My neice is Grace, my sister-in-law Joan, so whats with the "3" in gracejoan3??

Very interested in your Le Train Bleu experience. We 5 gals had a super time - the waiter at our table presenting each of us with a menu as a momento afetr the bill (and tip) were paid!
We skipped the starters and I went for the Roast rib of breeder's "Foyot" veal, with mushroom lasagne.
My friend adores Sauce Bernaise so she chose the grilled Prime Fillet, Be`arnaise sauce Cinderella with potato quenelles in Parmesan.

The deserts were Rum Baba! The waiter presented us with an entire bottle of Kirschwasser to re-anoint our Babas as we desired. What was the man thinking? The pud was so spiked we left absolutely cross-eyed!
Can't wait to hear if you had a good meal.

gracejoan3 Apr 21st, 2008 11:54 AM

re name..just my name backwards and the 3 needed for their requirement..

re A/C Train Bleu...I could not see any signs of it but when asked, I was told that they definitely had it..so how helpful is that!!

re food Belle Epoques are not known for their food. Just came from Train Blue and the "kids" enjoyed theirs..I thought it only acceptable or less. I'm fussier!

a bientot

d_claude_bear Apr 21st, 2008 01:12 PM

gracejoan3--

Have you had occasion to use your Roam Simple phone yet?

Leely Apr 21st, 2008 01:54 PM

Enjoying your report. A year or so ago I remember asking you if you had been to La Ferrandaise and you hadn't (I think you had mentioned that you were going to try it). I've been very curious about this restaurant. Glad to hear that it's good and will visit the next time I'm in Paris, though that may be a while, darn it.

smrt2 Apr 21st, 2008 04:13 PM

Gracejoan,

I highly recommend you walk down Rue de Seine toward the Jardin Luxembourg a few blocks and try the pastry at Gerard Mulot. Paul will pale in comparison. There's also Laduree on Rue Bonaparte in the 6eme. Others have mentioned the one on the Champs...

Just my humble opinion...

AGM_Cape_Cod Apr 21st, 2008 04:29 PM

Seafox, I don't measure either when I am cooking only when baking. I will take your directions under advisement. The only problem is prying the Armagnac bottle out of my husband's hand. The only thing he is happy to let me use it for is his favorite ice cream-armagnac hazelnut praline.

gracejoan3 Apr 21st, 2008 08:31 PM

I have been to Gerald Mulot and Laduree many times. Yes, they are great. Paul's just happens to be the closest, if a hurry.

Yes, re the Roam Simple phone. I used it almost immediately. Driver met me and I called apt. owner from the car to tell her I was on my way. My granddaughter called me from their phone after they arrived.
I use the apt. phone and the cell. Apt. phone has the free calls TO US (and many countries) Many are providing this service.

We are going to dinner tonight..last night for the kids...to l'Epigramme on l'Eperon. Seems to be liked. Will let you know.

I then move to the 7th tomorrow and my area of relly great restaurants.

I do have lunch scheduled for La Gaillon on Thursday and dinner with my French friends who will be coming in to town..staying overnight with me..and we are going to Au Gourmand, Friday it is Spring. Making a lunch reservaion for Agape, in the 17th for Monday, Tues. it is Drouant..I have all the Constant places nearby, along with Le Clos des Gourmet...

a bientot.........

klondike Apr 21st, 2008 10:12 PM

Thanks, gracejoan for all the info!

plambers Apr 22nd, 2008 10:37 AM

Gracejoan, great report.Your upgrade sounds lovely. Keep the reports on Spring and other dining experiences coming. We'll be there in 2 weeks!

gracejoan3 Apr 22nd, 2008 11:44 AM

The kids wer going back to d'Orsay this morning so we had breakfast at Laduree. Lots to take care of in the area today...plus packing...for them to go home and for me to move to the 7th.

We just returned from l'Epigramme on rue l'Eoperon for dinner. I highly recommend it. They only seat 30..if my count was right. We saw them turn away at least 5 grops because of lack of reservation..several made reservations for another time.

The menu was only 28 euros! 5 offerings.

The service is a bit off..they need to hire another person!

Next chapter will be my move to the 7th..my apt. will be ready for me when I arrive. I have a taxi picking me up at 9:15..

a bientot..........

LowCountryIslander Apr 22nd, 2008 12:21 PM

gracejoan...

I'd love to hear your thoughts on Laudree. I'll be in Paris in September and have been drooling over all the posts here describing the famous macaroon and can't pass up a chance to taste.

But I also read their menu and it looks good to me. I'm thinking possibly for breakfast or lunch.

If you'd do a brief post about your Laudree experience I'd much appreciate it!

Thanks! :)

gracejoan3 Apr 22nd, 2008 12:39 PM

Laduree..

Here is their website:
http://www.laduree.fr/index_en.htm

They are very well thought of and have lots of goodies.

My granddaughter had bacon/eggs, her husband had french toast..it was about 2 inches thick and a large container of creme fraiche. I had OJ, cafe with creme and the mini group of goodies.

Many have lunch there...a good spot. You should try it, at least once....

LowCountryIslander Apr 22nd, 2008 02:40 PM

gracejoan...

Thanks for the Laudree info!

seafox Apr 23rd, 2008 02:30 AM

My mouth is watering!!!!!

gracejoan3 Apr 23rd, 2008 03:44 AM

Kids left for home early this morning and my taxi picked me up promptly at 9:15 for my move to the 7th and my lovely upgraded Paris Perfect apt. The gal arrived at the same time.We did the tour ofthe place and the operating of the 2 large flat screen TV's, got my laptop going..WI-FI. The apt. is very nice..2 b/r, 2/bath and 2 toilets!Everything you need and want is here. I unpacked and wandered the area...wasn't sure if I would just go to the Constant's Les Cocottes or Les Close des Gourmets..Clos des Gourmet received the opportunity to serve me! I had chicken with some small potatos that had been seared a bit...excellent flavor...a great dessert..might not sound good, but it was!! Like avocado creme fraich blobs between some caramel covered biscuits of some sort. This is a goo restaurant,if you are not already aware of it..

Big day tomorrow...a bientot.

Dejais Apr 23rd, 2008 04:08 AM

Gracejoan...You're new apartment sounds wonderful. How is the weather? Still chilly? We leave tomorrow.

gracejoan3 Apr 23rd, 2008 05:08 AM

Yes, it is chilly..trying to rain. Spring has not really arrived.

I do think I saw that it may be in the 70's on Sat. You must be bringing better weather with you!!

Have a good flight!!

Dejais Apr 23rd, 2008 07:39 AM

Having just checked the weather for the gazillionth time...I see that the rain has moved from Monday to Tuesday AND Wednesday (our Loire Valley tour dates) with a high of 55 degrees. Bummer. The good news is that this weekend looks positively lovely with a high of 68 degrees. So not to worry, Florida is on its way. :)

gracejoan3 Apr 23rd, 2008 08:07 AM

The weatherman here is no better than the weatherman there, so don't worry about next Tues/Wed now..it could be completely different!!

Ronda Apr 23rd, 2008 09:08 AM

I was searching for an address for l'Epigramme and look what I found:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uQ_cR1yR5aw

Looks like this fella has reviewed quite a few restaurants on you tube. Check out his list.

gracejoan3 Apr 23rd, 2008 09:20 PM

Yes, that is the place. It is on rue l'Eperon....

Fig514 Apr 24th, 2008 02:28 AM

Hey Gracejoan !
We are loving traveling along with you, especially since we landed in Paris ourselves yest am. We used "your" driver service, and it must have been good karma as we also had 3seats to ourselves on the plane, and a smooth perfect arrival to our apartment.
We are in the 18e, great place. Looking for good restaurants, in the 30 to 40 euro range. Please keep the great info coming :)


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