Paris trip #7
 

I know I should have started this a week ago,but you know how things are when you get back from vacation.So much to catch up on..
Anyway my husband Bill and I fell in love with Paris on our first trip there in 1999.We went back this time and had 12 glorious ,sunny ,rain-free days.We rented an apartment in the 11th,my husband has a friend who lives outside of Paris,and he picked us up at Charles de Galle .Our United flight was smooth,and we were in our apartment by 8 am Sunday May 8th.We unpacked a little and we were off..We love to hit the market on Sundays near the Bastille,picked up some things,looked at everything they sell.Amazing.Everyone was so nice and friendly.We walk alot and every time we say to ourselves that we are going to take it easy this time.But,I want to see everything again,and see new things and so off we go.Thank goodness for comfortable walking shoes (and moleskin!)
Monday May 9,
Off to recharge our metro pass,and what a great day,You need a light jacket,but the sun is so warm.We want to check out a few restaurants for the rest of the week.
We decide to walk the Promenade Plantee,a lovely way to be up above street level.There are lots of people out walking,all the flowers are blooming..
More later....

Oh, how tantalizing! Please tell us more!

Looking forward to the rest of this.

Ok,We took the metro to Odeon,I wanted to get to the l'Avant Comptoir,to try the bite size goodies.It is at 9 Carrefour de l'Odeon.What a tiny ,intimate place.It has a small counter and a small cozy bar,You really get to know your neighbor and see what they are having.We had the delicious Ham croquettes,my husband tried the boudin noir macaron,and chipolatas.They put out a basket of bread,a crock of pickles and you help yourself.The guys next to me were very friendly,they tried the fois gras,tuna,and pork.Such a fun place,and of course some wine...

Tell us more about your adventures.

Tuesday,we slept a little late,I hate to miss much,and I really tried getting up,at 7 ,but at 9:30 I am ready...Bill makes his usual breakfast of an egg,some ham,and toast,.Me,black coffee,I pick up a pain au chocolate as we wander...Today off to my favorite museum,the d'Orsay.I can't believe how close you can be to a famous Monet or Renoir.I just love this place.We always try to have lunch in their beautiful restaurant on the second floor.The ceiling is gorgeous,lots of gold and crystal.They offer a lunch menu,that includes dessert for about 16 euros.This day is was a swordfish with a julienne of vegetables.Very tasty,followed by the floating island dessert for me,and a cottage cheese thing with fruit for Bill.The people next to us had ordered a vegetable dish that looked very creative.Out the door and across the courtyard to a museum we have always wanted to try,but never had enough time.It is the Musee national de la Legion d'Honneur.The permanent collection houses medals and decorations awarded to military officials.It was quite impressive,and it's free..
So it's time to hit the road and walk off that lunch.Lots of people out,lots of school groups,the weather is just perfect,so we head over to the Tuileries and people watch.
While we were at the d'Orsay,we bought the ticket for the d'orsay and for a few euros more,you can go to the l'orangerie.It is good for 4 days,so you can come back another time.I think it is 13 euros for both.

Take me away! Away to Paris through your report.

Wednesday started out the same way,sunny,just needing a light jacket.I changed my usual pain au chocolate for a pain au raisin.Delicious..We were out to find the Parc Belleville,in the 20th.This is the highest park in Paris,lots of shrubs,and flowers along the way to the top.What a view!This is gorgeous.And a great place for a picnic.
Then we have to take the metro back to the Eiffel Tower.Along the way,some young girls(maybe around 13 years old)get on the Metro.They look like school girls.The metro was full,and we were standing.One girl pulled up her backpack in front of her,my husband was watching,he thought at first her arm was in a sling.Then all of a sudden ,they decided to get off,before the train pulled out.I said to Bill,who wears a small bag on his belt that the zipper was opened.The girls tried to open it,and succeeded in that short time.They didn't get anything,but that is where Bill keeps his small camera.
Anyway,we were off again,as we had booked a backstage at the Eiffel Tower tour.
This is really an interesting tour,they give you alot of the history,take you under ground and show all the pistons and gears,and the workings of the elevators.I would recommend this tour .Then you get to go up to the second level for great pictures.If I get a chance I will post some pictures.

Pain au chocolate---yummmm! My new favorite is one with a pistacio paste with small dots of chocolate(don't know the French name--anyone?)

Where did you find the backstage at the Eiffel tour? Sounds interesting.

yes, I too, am interested in backstage at the Eiffel Tower. DH is an engineer and I know he'd love that when we are in Paris in September. How does one reserve that?

I found the info for backstage at the Eiffel Tower at www.parisvision.com
It is under the tab activities in paris,then unusual things to do..They offer it on wed and sat.I reserved it online.

We had tried to call Spring for lunch reservations from home,but they were all booked.I thought we could try and call while in Paris,and they did have a cancellation for Thursday.I said we will be there,,,If you haven't been there before,try to go.Now they just changed their hours,and they are only open for lunch on Fridays.It is a small place,but that's ok,You are practically sitting in the kitchen.As you may or may not know,there is no choice.You get what the chef found to be fresh at the market.But that's ok,it was great sitting right there watching Daniel direct the 2 chefs and the one assistant.The 2 men were back at the stove,while a young girl was closer to us.She prepared the amuse bouche and the dessert.They do ask you if you want to know the menu ahead or just be surprised.When we called,they also asked if there were any food allergies.
First thing brought to us were some blue mushrooms with radish slices in a horseradish vinegrette.Yumm.
Next they brought some rolls with wheatberry butter.Of course we had a nice wine.Then came the starter,which was asparagus with sorrel and some ahi tuna on top,with a sauce and a section of grapefruit on the side.This was refreshing.Then they brought out a little cup with 4 fried anchovies.I am not an anchovy fan normally,but these were fresh,deep fried(what's not to like)and in a dipping sauce.You just picked them up by their tails and eat them.You can even eat the delicate bones.
Daniel was watching everyone,and would let the other chefs know when to get the next dish ready.
The main course was a large piece of pork,very tender and juicy over a bed of grilled fennel.I am getting so full.
Then Daniel tells the young lady to get dessert ready.It is strawberries placed perfectly in a circle with some cream on top and crushed pistachio crumbs.There was a small chocolate cookie on the side filled with pistachio cream.
Just when I think we are finished ,they bring out a cup with this fabulous chocolate sorbet with chocolate chunks in it>(who can resist?)
So glad we got to enjoy lunch here.Now it's time to walk it off...
If I figure out how to insert pictures,I will show you some happy customers...

After lunch we walked abit,and ended up near Notre Dame.There was a huge tent set up and it was the annual Fete du Pain.They are searching for the best baguette maker in Paris.The winner gets to provide the prime minister with bread for a year.Lots of demonstrations inside,with a sample of breads.They even had a class for kids to learn to roll out the dough.
Outside there are some tents set up,you can buy a sandwich or dessert,or some bread to take home.Also there is a stand on tourism.
I can not eat any more,I need to keep walking....

http://www.isango.com/france-tours/p...el-tower_14838

Looks very interesting. We might have to try this during our next visit.

Friday was the day for the fashion show at Galeries Lafayette.This lasts about 1/2 hour.What's not to like,as my husband says,short skirts and high heels.The outfits this year were not too exciting or different.Actually there were some things I would wear.(provided they did not cost a fortune.)We have gone in the past and some of the outfits were over the top.This year the only exciting one was worn by the lone male mode.He wore oranges slacks,a lavender shirt,a turquoise scarf and a yellow baseball cap.I know the title of that segment was color blocking,but my husband would never wear all those different colors ...Anyway,it was a packed room,lots of groups of fashion students,You used to be able to email and make a reservation,now you need to call.After the show,we shopped around,went to the roof to see the 360 view of the city,and take more pictures.

The weekend was for relaxing in the gardens,having a picnic,enjoying life.Sat nite was the Nuit des Musees,when most Paris museums are opened from 6 pm to midnight,free of charge.We chose to visit the Lourve ,lines were short and moving quickly.It is just overwhelming,esp at nite.
Took the metro home to rest.
Wednesday we had arranged to do a tour through meeting the french.Since my husband has tried(unsuccessfully?)to make some baguettes at home we went on a bakery tour.It was the Nature de Pain bakery on rue Levis.The young owner of the bakery gives the tour,(with a translator)of his bakery.He explains how he uses all natural ingredients,and is always looking for new flavors and combinations.This was quite interesting,as you got to see the whole process,and at the end,you were given a taste of 4 different breads.
Thursday,oh my the time is going by so quickly,we will need to pack for friday's departure,but first we are off to the Ritz cooking school for a class over the lunch hour.This was lots of fun,about 10 people in the class.They give you an apron and 2 knives.The main instructor speaks in French,and has a translator next to him.He gives a demonstration of how to cut the leeks,then we had to do the same.We were making a sase bass with cilantro on a bed of leeks.We all tooks turns searing our fish,which was finished in the oven.The chef was very knowledgeable and entertaining.He demonstrated the correct presentation,which we each did,then took our plates to a small dining room.They provided wine,water and coffee.
Thursday nite we were meeting Bill's friend and his wife,Lucien and Marie, for dinner at le Florimond.What a great nite.We started off with un coup de champagne,the amuse bouche was a pureed cauliflour with a slice of a hard sausage on top.I had their lobster ravioli as a starter,oh my goodness,this was wonderful,followed by confit de canard.The duck was moist and the skin crisp,just the way I like it.Bill wanted to try a sausage dish with asparagus as a starter.That could have been his whole meal,it was a large portion.Then he chose the chou farci(listed as their grandmother's recipe).Again,this could have fed 4.For dessert we chose their sampler plate and got to taste 10 different things.We shared one between 3 of us,and it was plenty.Marie chose a rhubarb crumble,which was in a large bowl.Despite being so big,she managed to finish it all.Then Lucien drove us around the city for a little while,it is just gorgeous at nite with everything all lit up,I hate to leave,but now we have to finish packing.Lucien is picking us up at 7:30 to get to the airport.
This trip was so relaxing,the weather perfect.I am looking forward to trip # 8.

And so will everyone else reading your fun report for #8!

What a wonderful report. Sounds like you guys had a fantastic time. I'm glad you got to enjoy a meal at Spring, it's like nothing else in Paris, isn't it? I'm been meaning to get to Le Florimond, but we haven't made it yet. Maybe in October......the lobster ravioli and chou farci sound like they have my name on it, lol.

BTW, is this the Lanie who took a cooking class at Nomiya last May? I was there with my daughter, we had such a great time. You guys sound like you make your trips just as much about food as we do, lol.

Thanks for sharing........loved reading it all.

Jo

Great report with unusual activities! Bravo.

I am hoping to get into Spring when we go in November and Joan tells me I have to go to le Florimond, so it was good to read about your experience.

Sounds like a great trip!

lainie: thanks for the info, on the "Backstage at the Eiffel" It sounds just great, did you book far in advance??

Your whole report is just great, and I appreciate all the info.

Jo,
Yes ,this is the same lainie that cooked with you and your daughter last year,and you do know they closed now.

taconictraveler
we booked on line but only about a month ahead of time,It kept saying no dates available when I would try to do reserve 2-3 months out.

denisea,
I enjoyed your last report very much.Le Florimond serves large portions,so go hungry.But everything is great,

Thanks to everyone for all the help.

thanks lainie...we go again in November and I am looking forward to Le Florimond...I can always eat, so I should be at home there

Lainie, I didn't know it had closed. I was checking it out for a friend who went to Paris last month and it just said that there were no bookings at the moment.

Danielle and I had so much fun that night, it was our last night in Paris and a perfect way to spend it.

Thanks again for your wonderful report!

Jo