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Paris to Corsica and back in Sunny September 2010

Paris to Corsica and back in Sunny September 2010

Oct 6th, 2010, 10:09 AM
  #21  
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 432
"Maybe this is a very famous beach, but I don’t think it’s the best"

Ah! that's a shame, two of the rentals we are looking at are on that beach. It looks shockingly good from the photographs. The prices are shockingly high. Having second thoughts about the whole thing. It is going to be cheaper to go to The Bahamas in May. BA or no BA, the rentals are far cheaper and are the same price throughout the year.

Corsica seems to be asking e4000 a week for sheds on the beach in August. We are very new to the whole August thing as we are now tied to school holidays for the first time.

Yanumpty shocked.
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Oct 6th, 2010, 10:25 AM
  #22  
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,466
Lovely report, we LOVE Corsica and is our "must go" summer quick jaunt although agree July/August is super busy, we will stick with June next year!
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Oct 6th, 2010, 05:17 PM
  #23  
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,583
yanumpty,

Don't give up. You've picked a very expensive, crowded part of the island.

Here's a trip report that may help: http://www.slowtrav.com/tr/print.asp?tripid=1673

A relative of this poster has a villa in a nice area. Here's the web listing: http://www.abritel.fr/annonces-detai...cia_620044.php

You should be able to find an alternative.
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Oct 7th, 2010, 06:59 AM
  #24  
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Join Date: Sep 2005
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September 15

Scandola Nature Reserve (by boat), Calvi Festival of Polyphony

Bérengère and Gilles at Ombre-du-Clocher serve breakfast at any time you request, as early as 7:30 a.m. This isn’t offered at many B&B’s, so we appreciated their flexibility. Their homemade jams are delicious also! We needed to leave early this morning since the boat to Scandola departs from Quai Landry, the harbor in Calvi , at 9 a.m. A line forms for the outdoor seats, so it’s important to be there by 8:30 a.m. if you want good seating.

It was another bright and sunny day. The harbor view of Calvi from the sea was very colorful as we sailed away. We were sailing for the World Heritage site & nature reserve, to Girolata. The trip out is slow and very scenic, hugging the coastline and bays. The return trip is quick and sails much further from the coastline, so if you want photos, take them on the southern bound ride. The sun is bright on the cliffs, so photography is a bit of a challenge. This area isn’t accessible by car, so taking a boat is the only way most people can access the park. We passed more Genoese towers and tiny beaches that could only be reached by the sea and sailboats. After a time the red granite cliffs were visible against the deep turquoise sea. It’s very beautiful as the red reflects into the deep blue water. Google Scandola natural reserve for a collection of photos showing the immense beauty of this area of Corsica.

While sailing I noticed another company doing this trip but in a much smaller boat. U Filanciu http://www.ufilanciu.fr/ leaves from Cargese. This may be another good option to visit Scandola although the passengers are much closer to the sea.

Girolata is a small fishing village catering to the passengers departing the boats. The fishing village is only accessible by boat or a 7k trail from the main road. Most of the residents leave for the winter. Many lunch options are available in the village, from panini sandwiches to full lunches. There are a few areas of shade among the stone houses at the top of the hill which is only a 10 minute walk from the harbor. The beach is grungy and not inviting for sunbathing. Most passengers found a café and spent their 2 hours relaxing over lunch.

Arriving back in Calvi we climbed to the citadel. There isn’t much up here, but we tried to find the birthplace of Christoper Columbus. Calvi boasts of being Columbus’ birthplace, he was Genoese, but although a sign points the direction, there is no home, and no proof that he actually was born here. Back in the lower town we shopped in the excellent shop Annie Traiteur for olives, cheese and more, then returned to Calenzana.
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Oct 7th, 2010, 09:13 AM
  #25  
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Join Date: Sep 2005
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September 16

L’Ile Rousse, Monticello, Santa-Reparata-di-Balagna, Pigna & Bodri Beach

Opps, we didn’t go to the Calvi Festival of Polyphony until this evening.

This was our last full day on Corsica. L’Ile Rousse has a morning market each day near the central plaza, place Paoli. It specializes in very local products, lobsters, charcuterie, cheeses, jams, fish, fruit, etc. Sadly, this is the only part of L’Ile Rouse that we cared for. We walked along the beach, but didn’t care for it, then drove to the lighthouse. There are hiking possibilities in this area but instead we drove inland on D63, the route des artisans, to Monticello. Just getting back into the center of town to reach D63 was a traffic nightmare.

There was nothing going on in Monticello, except for the restaurant A Pasturella which has a good reputation. We saw no artist’s shops. We walked through the village which has pretty views to the sea, but nothing for the tourist. It was a waste of time. Continuing onto Santa-Reparata-di-Balagna the D263 was narrow and slow. Fire engines were placed in spots; I guess they were located here in the hills in case of fire. The church of Santa-Reparata is interesting, but we found nothing else in this typical village of the Balagne region of any interest. We continued on the D151 to Pigna, passing an interesting cemetery full of mausoleums on the way. Pigna has several artists’ shops, but they have very limited hours and very long lunch closings. Of course we were here in the afternoon, during the lunch closing so missed out seeing what they had to offer. We tried eating our picnic lunch here on the overlook, but bees swarmed us, making it impossible. This is the most attractive stone village of this area. I enjoyed walking the narrow alleys. In the end we thought the time we spent in these hills was a waste.

Bodri Beach, just west of L’Ile Rousse and on the west side of Bodri camping is a nice beach to spend a few hours. There is a tiny sign pointing the way and a parking de Bodre sign. From the paid parking area, €2.50, but not collecting the fee when we arrived, we walked to the right side of the parking area, then down a path through the maquis. Walk across the railroad tracks. 5 minutes walk down this path is the beach. Along the left side of the beach are gray rocks backing the sand with afternoon shade! Dried seaweed lined the first few feet of the sand, but it didn’t detract from the beach.

XXIIèmes Rencontres de Chants Polyphoniques de Calvi www.myspace.com/rencontrescalvi

This is the music festival held in Calvi for 5 days each September. We were fortunate to attend the Mongolian music at Cathedral Saint Jean-Baptiste. Tickets were discounted when combined with the headliner concert featuring Kodo, the Japanese drums, which were outstanding, and the host Corsican group for the festival A Filetta. We had 2 hours between these two concerts for dinner. While we ate outdoors up in the citadel, the crowd filled the outdoor seating area at Place d’Armes. Seating was on the stone steps, so it’s wise to bring a pillow to sit on. We stood for most of the concert. This experience is one we’ll not soon forget and a perfect way to end our time in Corsica.

September 17

Our flight to Paris on Easy Jet departed from Bastia. The drive from Calenzana to Bastia is 2 ½ hours on excellent roads, N197 to N193. The airport is located south of Bastia so there is no need to go back into Bastia. Returning our Europcar was quick and easy to locate. Easy Jet has a very large presence at Bastia’s airport. Our flight was late because the air traffic controllers in France were on strike, thankfully slowing their work, but not stopping it. Boarding the plane was a crazy mess of crowding, since no seats are assigned ahead of the flight. You simply choose your seat as you board. Arrival was at Terminal 2B and luggage carousels are for Easy Jet flights, so the luggage arrived quickly.

We spent the next 4 days in Paris enjoying free entry to several public buildings, during the journees-du-patrimoine. Hotel de Ville and the Senate were highlights.

In addition we visited Château de Malmaison, Empress Joséphines home outside of Paris. Directions: By train: take the RER train to Grande Arche de la Défense on Line A then take bus 258 and get off at "Le Château”. This Chateau isn’t very large and the rose garden is poor.


Below is our dinner list for this trip in Paris:

Kitchen Galerie Bis
25, rue des Grands Augustins, 6th (Metro: Saint Michel or Odeon tele: 01 46 33 00 85
Closed Sundays.
This is excellent. We highly recommend it.

Le Pamphlet
38, rue Debelleyme, 75003 Paris
Tel.: 01 42 72 39 24 Métro: Filles du Calvaire.

Good food, but rushed service so 2 seatings would be possible. Many tourists.



Pramil
9 rue Vertbois
01 43 25 20 79 M- Arts & Métier

The chef comes into the dining room after the meal service to greet the diners. Very friendly and open on Sundays, but food is just average. Service isn’t rushed.


Florimond http://www.leflorimond.com/
19, Avenue de la Motte-Picquet 75007 Paris
Tél. : 01 45 55 40 38
Fermé le samedi midi, le dimanche et les 1er et 3ème samedis de chaque mois.

Very friendly service. The food was only average. It has a good reputation so maybe we were there on an off night??
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Dec 1st, 2010, 05:24 PM
  #26  
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,449
Thank you for a very detailed report! I was just going to do a day trip from Sardinia....now I think I need to add on a week!
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