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Paris to Burgundy Suggestions/Beaune Hotel-restaurant

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Paris to Burgundy Suggestions/Beaune Hotel-restaurant

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Old Jul 6th, 2006, 10:47 PM
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Paris to Burgundy Suggestions/Beaune Hotel-restaurant

We will arrive CDG first thing in the a.m. the end of August and will setting out by car towards Beaune. Though I know it's possible, we are not in a particular hurry to get there that day.

We would like to stop for lunch and probably not plan on going much further, if at all. In the past we have stopped in Troyes and Provins to give you an idea of how far we've gone gotten that first half-day. We have already explored Sens, Joigny, Noyer, Avallon and Vincelottes--and really enjoy this size and type of village/town but are looking for new explorations instead of repeats. Love little cobblestone, winding streets, pretty towns with flowers and statuary, history and bucolic setting. Good traditional cuisine is priority and a nice, but not too fancy smaller hotel/auberge (i.e. 2-3 *** or Logis de France) would be nice. We drove through Chablis, but obviously must have missed "centre ville" because it seemed like we were in and out in a matter of minutes.

We'll be celebrating our 25th wedding anniversary so want it to be memorable, but with jet lag and all, we will save the "big splurge" for later down the road when we can better appreciate it. Thanks for any suggestions.

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Old Jul 7th, 2006, 02:28 AM
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Hi K,

Auxerre is about 2:15 hr from CDG on your way to Beaune.

Lovely town on the Yonne river.

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Old Jul 7th, 2006, 03:24 AM
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While driving between Paris and Beaune, we've stopped at Vezelay twice before for lunch. Both times dining at Marc Meneau's L'esperance (once at the tru L'esperance, the other time at La Pres de marguerite - the less casual sister of L'esperance). Vezelay is a beautiful town, I believe a UNESCO World Heritage town.

In Beaune, 2 of our favorite bistros are Ma Cuisine (in a sidestreet just of Place Carnot) and La Gourmandin (on Place Carnot). Both are terrific bistros serving very good Burgundian fare with, of course, very good local wines availabel by the glass.
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Old Jul 7th, 2006, 05:33 AM
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I second billboy's suggestion of Ma Cuisine, but I will say this, it is not air conditioned and it truly gets hot in the restaurant. We have been there thre times, and each time it was sweltering and made the dining rather unenjoyable (but great food!!!). I also recommend Le Benaton, just outside the walls. Right next door is the lovely Hostellerie de Bretonnaire, where we have stayed twice and would stay again. And since you have a car, there is a no nothing place just outside Nuits St. Georges on the main road called Le Central, local place with terrific beef bourgenoine and a terrific red house wine. Very local!!! Left hand side of the road right before you hit the main town if you are heading from Beaune.
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Old Jul 7th, 2006, 06:57 AM
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I can highly recommend the hotel Grand Chaumiere in St Florentin, which is midway between Troyes and Auxerre. Great Michelin* restaurant, reasonable rates.
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Old Jul 7th, 2006, 08:55 AM
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Vézelay is a must, to see the Basilica--it's one of the starting points for the pilgrimmage to Santiago de Campostela. The church is stunning: very light, wonderful carvings on the pillars.

Another place to see is the ancient Abbaye de Fontaney, in good repair, which means you can get an excellent sense of what the monastery was once like as a working community.

The little village of Glavigny-sur-Ozerain is where part of the film "Chocolat" was filed; very picturesque, as is the small town of Semur-en-Auxois--impressive setting.

If time allows, visit the Renaissance Château de Tanlay, up near Chablis. It's quite splendid and relatively undiscovered.

Have you been to Autun? That's a very important town, with a magnificent Gothic cathedral, fine medieval precincts, and a Roman theater still in use.

More and more...
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Old Jul 7th, 2006, 10:57 AM
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Flavigny sur Ozerain in one of the most beautiful villages in France, and don't forget to taste their famous sweets (aniseed and others falvours like violet, rose,mint, orange...)you can find them in many shops (souvenirs shops for ex)
http://www.cometofrance.com/burgundy.html
If you like abbeys, besides the one in Fontenay there is also Citeaux abbey near Dijon on the east side of the wine coast. (try their cheese)
http://www.citeaux-abbaye.com/

Welcome to Burgundy!
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Old Jul 7th, 2006, 02:23 PM
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Zut alors! coco--don't know why Flavigny got that G. Je m'excuse.
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Old Jul 7th, 2006, 07:12 PM
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Thank you, one and all!

You had me going, Underhill! I couldn't believe my Michelin map didn't have the town you mentioned-ha-ha-ha. FLAvigny s/Ozerain does sound wonderful, as does St. Florentin (thanks, Ron) and it looks like there's lots of "scenic" roads in the area, too. Will do some serious research on this area. We have 3 weeks to meander.

I have spent time in this area quite a few years back and have enjoyed many of the towns mentioned--even the great L'Espérance (thankfully a guest, non-payant!) So I would like my husband to experience the area as well. We did not get as far as Beaune the last time, spending time in Vezelay and Chablis country. Made it to Tonnerre, Tanlay and Ancy-la-France but missed Fontenay. We cut west to the Loire before hitting Beaune last time. This time we plan on hitting Beaune and the area to the South--Tournus, Cluny, Paray-le-Monial...so restos/hotel recommendations are welcome.

My concern is that: no longer being "Spring Chickens", and originating from Alaska with a 2 day layover in Denver (factor in heat/altitude) on to Chicago to CDG, and arriving at 8:25 am...I think we're good for about 2-1/2 hours of driving. Husband gets cranky when hungry, so we have to stop for lunch, and I don't see us hitting the road again that day "fait de la méridionne", ça fera du bien, n'est-ce pas?

Any other suggestions closer to the Provins/Troyes area would be even better. Thanks again.

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Old Jul 7th, 2006, 08:43 PM
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Hotel for southern Burgundy: the Château d'Igé, in the town of the same name. It's in a village not far off the autoroute, and there's a good restaurant in the hotel.
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Old Jan 25th, 2008, 11:31 PM
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Was looking through old posts in preparation for Aug 08 trip and found this. So I thought I would briefly "report back" on what we ended up doing....

We ended up staying our first night at the intimate Le Manoir de l'Onde in the country 10k north of Sens. With only 8 rooms, a large terrain full of flowers, a heated swimming pool and large veranda/sun room and fantastic cuisine, this Logis de France exceeded anything we had in mind for a honey-moon getaway. It also was the best bed I have ever slept in and service was friendly but professional. It obviously is used for large receptions in nice weather, but the night we were there there were only 2 other businessmen staying. Would return in a heart beat.

RonZ, we took your advice and then headed to St. Florentin, but found your hotel/rest rec. closed. We
saw the church (famous stained glass) by getting the key from the tourist office before having a well-prepared, tasty lunch at Les Tilleuls, enclosed within the walls of a Capucin Convent dating from 1635. We were so taken by this little town and what it offered, we got a room at Les Tilleuls for the night (9 rooms-thin walls, but nicely appointed with views of the garden). www.hotel-les-tilleuls.com Spent the afternoon meandering the town, enjoying the fountains, antique store, public garden and descending down to the Canal de Bourgogne and talking to the vacationing boaters as they locked up or down. Very enjoyable day in all.

The next day we headed off south along the Canal passing through Cerisier, Tonnerre and Montbard to be at the Abbey of Fontenay before 11 am. There were surprsingly few people and it was a joy to visit. Lighting was superb. Some roses still in bloom. The souvenir shop was one of the nicest we've come across both in variety and quality of products. Magical place. We were able to reach Montbard for a late lunch at L'Ecu (www.hotel-de-l-ecu.fr). Good quality for price (menu terroir) and a very friendly dog-of-the-house who will sleep at your feet if the owner doesn't spy him and send him away first. We drove the back roads to Beaune--highly recommended.

Beaune has been talked about enough on other threads so I will just say we enjoyed 2 nights there at Best Western Henri II (net special through Venere.com) It was a good location and had air-conditioning that worked very well and a secure garage, which is impt to us. Breakfast room wasn't anything to write home about, but rooms and foyer were nice. Would stay here again. We of course did the Hospice (very worthwhile) and the weekly market (sensorial treat) with huge floral stand and the perfume of the season's last cavaillon melons wafting through the air.

From here we headed off to Annecy via Bourg-en-Bresse and the Brou church and Monastery-WOWZER! This was a very special place in archecture and in spirit. Again, a sleepy Sunday morning, it seemed like we had the place to ourselves in this Love Story settng. Then Sunday menu across the street at the Chalet de Brou-highly recommend-excellent poulet de Bresse served with its little individual medallion (husband) and magret de canard à 'orange (me). Very friendly, hard working staff. Even though there was a tour group of "3ème Age" citizens sharing the dining room, they deftly took care of their other patrons sans problème. Satiated, perhaps too much so, we headed out once again in the direction of Annecy....and so ended the "Burgundy" portion of our trip.
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Old Jan 26th, 2008, 05:17 AM
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I second the recommendations for Auxerre and and Vezelay as great places to stop. Autun is also well worth a trip/detour while you are in Beaune but not as a stop along the CDG to Beaune route.
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Old Jul 17th, 2008, 08:17 AM
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ttt
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Old Jul 17th, 2008, 11:07 AM
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Cannot recommend this inn in tiny Nitry enough...
http://www.beursaudiere.com/
Stayed there in April '07 and it was perfect. Every evening before dinner we'd order a bottle of wine to drink on our stone terrace...it always came with an amuse bouche to die for. The town itself isn't very impressive, but it's a good location for exploring. And the restaurant was packed every night..don't miss the oeufs en meurette!

www.hereinfranklin.wordpress.com
 
Old Jul 17th, 2008, 11:23 AM
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Those candies, Coco mentions come in beautiful oval tins They make wonderful inexpensive gifts. After eating the contents, you can use them for pins and needles, stamps, paper clips, etc.
I loved staying in Avallon at the Moulin Des Ruats and the Hotel de la Poste.
Auxerre is where one of my favorite writers, COLETTE went to school from her village , St-Sauveur-en-Puisaye. In Sauveur, her childhood home, has a plaque, Colette was born here. In the castle is now a museum with a café. You can see her writing desk and "Blue" Lantern and watch films adapted from her books.
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