Paris - the 11th Arrondissement?
 

Going to Paris for my honeymoon in April - and staying in an apartment in the 11th. Don't know much about it - can anyone recommend a local hangout - a bistro or family restaurant that we will love? Shopping or a hidden spot that we wouldn't find on our own? Thank you! - Brenda

Can you give us an address?

The street address is 19 rue Ternaux which is just off the rue Oberkampf in the 11th arrondissment between Republic and Bastille.

I am a little familiar with that area. It is a neighborhood that is going thru some changes and is becoming popular with many artists and young "edgy" types. Republic has a nice mix of restaurants, the Oberkamph has some new small boutiques and bars and cafes that I thought had a "20 something" crowd. Some of the streets are better then others.Certain areas looked a little run down to me, and others looked like they were going thru a change similiar to what NoLita is in NYC. I wasn't thrilled with the shopping there, I much preferred other areas to spend a majority of my time.
Why did you pick staying in the 11th? I will try to find my old files and post some of the restaurants.

we rented an apartment there 5 years ago. It's a great neighborhood. My two personal favorite places to eat are The Bleu Homme(Berber) and Astier(both on Rue JP Timbaud). The cheese course at Astier alone will astound. The Attaque grocery story on Rue Maur(to my memory) is wonderful.

Also you will be inn close walking distance to the market(open) on Reichard Lenoir. Find out what the market day is. It's big and filled with tasty items.

that's Richard Lenoir

For a map of the neighborhood, go to the following, then to Paris maps and scroll down to Parmentier.

http://www.ratp.fr/ParisVisite/Eng/P...st_bus_eng.htm

Your bus is the 96, and I suggest you try it, because it is a winner. You can get the route on

http://www.ratp.fr/ParisVisite/Eng/Pla_q/f_pla.htm

Markets in XIème district

Charonne: between the streets of Charonne and Alexandre Dumas: Wednesday and Saturday.

Father-Lachaise: Data base of Ménilmontant, between the streets of Panoyaux and the Ashtrays: Tuesday and Friday.

Popincourt: on the Boulevard Richard Lenoir, between the streets Oberkampf and of Crussol Tuesday and Friday.

Bastille: quay level of the Boulevard of Belleville: Tuesday and Friday.

I've been in that area some and think you'll have a fine time, but most of the places I know are not hidden or difficult to find, so I think you'll find them just like I did if you walk around the area on the main streets.

Just walk east on rue Oberkampf and you'll see plenty of bars, cafes, hangouts and some shops. There are also shops around the Republique large "place". I think TrendGirl gave a pretty good description of this area. I wouldn't think about that are as a shopping destination for anything special -- you have small markets around there and places to buy food, of course. There are plenty on rue Oberkampf, for example.

The only place I know you might not stumble across with is a good small bistro is the CLown Bar on rue Amelot. It's right near the Filles Calvaire metro stop and is a popular wine bar/bistro. They seem to be getting pretty popular, however, as the last time I was there (a weekday dinner, I think), most of the tables had been reserved ahead.

I don't know where Ron got that market list, but it looks like French run through a translator and is kind of funny -- the part about between Panoyaux and the ashtrays streets, and "Father lachaise" and the database of Menilmontant, especially. French street and place names shouldn't be translated, but there actually is an Ashtrays street in the 20th but don't think you'll see that name on a street sign (it's Cendriers) and no one calls it "Father Lachaise" instead of "Pere Lachaise".

I could have cleaned that up, but left it alone. The mairie web site is in french, so I had to google for the translation. You do get some pretty screwy results sometimes.

Sounds like you'll be quite close to Astier, which is highly recommended and inexpensive. We made a point of going there last year, but were disappointed as it was closed for vacation -- July 29 -- we thought it didn't close until August.

I found more information for you regarding the 11th:
Restaurants that were special:
Le Repaire de Cartouche
99 rue Amelot
phone: 01.47.00.25.86

Cafe de l' Industrie
16 rue St Sabin
phone: 01.47.00.13.53

note: don't even think to go here if you are very conservative and want a traditional staid experience. It is lively, good people watching, and good to go to for the night that you don't want to eat a delux dinner, but more low key & fun night.
Some cafes to note that were fun:
Le Charbon #109 Oberkamph
Le Mercano #99
Purple Cafe #9 rue Pierre Dupont
I am sure there are tons of new places since I was last there. It is a changing neighborhood.

cafe d'industrie is closer to the opera in the 11th. It was filled with students..pretty good food and lots of cigarettes!

also went to le charbon as it wqs right down the street from our house..we're in our 50's and thought we were by far the oldest folks there..reasonable food nothing particularly outstanding and lots more smoke than cafe d'industrie.
It reminds me of a hip supper club in many ways.