italynovice

I will be traveling solo in September, and will be in the upper Marais near Square du Temple for one week. I enjoy enjoying good wine and food, and my head is swimming from restaurant choices in this area. I have stayed in Paris several times before, and am not limiting myself to this area, I just want several choices I can easily get to after a day of wandering around. I would like a combination of classic and modern French, small bistros, one sushi/Japanese choice maybe. I don't have a budget limit; I don't mind paying for good food, but doesn't have to be fancy or Michelin starred. Suggestions in other areas of Paris welcomed also. Names that I keep seeing include Le Mary Celeste, Les Chouettes, Le Taxi Jaune, Les Enfants Rouges, Le Metropolitan, Breizh, Clown Bar, Cafe des Muses. Also in other areas Vergus, Pirouette, Spring, Yam Tcha, Juveniles, Philou, Bistrot Paul Bert, Chez Denise, Les Papilles, Le Comptor du Relais. Any thoughts or suggestions on these or favorites you might have?

kerouac

The 3rd arrondissement is tiny so clearly you will be going a bit farther for certain meals.

Certainly you did not read about the Clown Bar for the food??!!??

Christina

The Clown Bar used to just be this dive next to Cirque du Soleil, which I think is what kerouac is thinking of. However, it was bought out or something by some top French restauranteurs, and turned trendy/named in blogs, etc last year or so, reopened under new mgt. Of course not cheap any more, and hard to get in due to being written up. But it is supposed to be good. So now it's modern french, small plates, etc. It used to just be an easy place to drop by for a glass of wine (although the outdoor area is not particularly scenic), no more.

I think a lot of these places are written up in guides/food blogs so may be hard to get into, so you need reservations probably, far in advance.

mamcalice

While in Paris last fall we ate ar Les Enfants Rouges and Le Metropolitan of those on your list. We enjoyed both a lot and I highly recommend both. We have eaten at Bistro Paul Bert and Chez Denise on previous trips and liked them both very much.

manouche

I don't think you can go wrong with any of the choices you mentioned, with the exception of Cafe des Musees, which was sold last year and is not at all the same as it used to be - RIP.

None of these places specializes in traditional French food, with the exception of Chez Denise (which is big on "innards"). They do a very good job of modern French bistro food, though, which is what everybody seems to want.

I agree that you'd better get busy with reservations - and also a caveat that you might lower your expectations just a little bit. Most of these places do a very good job, but frankly, it's not always earth-shaking - especially if you're expecting traditional French dishes and atmosphere.

Le Mary Celeste is insanely crowded with "cool kids", as is Breizh and Comptoir du Relais. If you can reserve for the tasting menu at CDR, the service and experience far outweighs the "rush job" you get at lunch. Expect to hear English from every other table in the places you mentioned - don't be disappointed, since they've all read the same reviews you have.

If you're staying in a hotel, ask the front desk to reserve for you, which will be the easiest option.

aliced

Chez Jenny - 3d arr on Blvd du Temple - always popular fave
La Maree Jeanne - 2d arr - new, seafood
Les Papilles - 5th, tiny, very limited but delicious menu
L'Ange 20 - 4th arr - another popular fave
Forget trying to get Comptoir du Relais, they're booked all of September for dinner!

Robert2533

For classic French cuisine, check the following:

Classic Bistros:
L'Ambassade d'Auvergne,, 22 rue du Grenier Saint-Lazare in the 3rd. Open daily offering a 22€ lunch menu weekdays.

Café des Musées, 49 rue de Turenne, as you already know, is in the 3rd. They offer 15€ lunch menu weekdays and a 25€ dinner menu.

L'Ami Jean, 27 rue Malar in the 7th. They offer a 35€ & 42€ lunch menu during the week. Open Tuesday-Saturday.

Bistrot Paul Bert, 18 rud Paul Bert in the 11th. This is a favorite of our friend Patricia Wells. They offer 19€ and 38€ lunch menus and a dinner menu for 38€. Reservations are required, but no more then 15 days out.

La Fontaine de Mars, 129 rue Saint-Dominique in the 7th has been one of our favorites for years. Lunch and dinner can be had for only 21€, á las carte canset you back 35€ to 80€. It's best to reserve ahead of time. We've done it the moring of (for dinner) and the day before for lunch, depending on the season.

manouche

L'Ambassade d'Auvergne is currently closed for remodelling, and might not be ready to open in September - just FYI.

Ackislander

Manouche writes: "I don't think you can go wrong with any of the choices you mentioned, with the exception of Cafe des Musees, which was sold last year and is not at all the same as it used to be - RIP."

I heard that, but I ate there in June and found the menu and the cooking unchanged from what it was 20 years ago, albeit the prices were a lot higher. On the other hand, I didn't have to change tables a couple of times at lunch to fit in more people as we did, happily, Back in the Day.

I took a deep breath some years ago when the then-owners (there have been lots) put in the cavernous cellar rooms. I finally decided that as long as I personally didn't have to eat down there, I would keep coming back as long as the food was good. At our Sunday lunch in June, it was good.

Robert2533

L'Ambassade d'Auvergne is supposed to be open by 25 August, according to their web site.

Christina

I think Les Enfants Rouges is actually ugly, looks like some cheap tabac, I wouldn't even eat there no matter how great their food is supposed to be. Unless they've changed decor recently. I just wouldn't even want to spend an entire evening in those surroundings. The front is okay, just not the inside.

I know you can reserve some of these online, which makes it easy (eg Mary Celeste). Except they have a real peculiar reservation policy, you can only reserve from 6-7:30 pm. Other times, it's chance, you can't reserve, it's first-come, first-served.

kerouac

Yes, Les Enfants Rouges is just an ugly blight in the 3rd arrondissement. I have no idea why it interests certain people unless it is their very closest market and they are disabled.

I pay very little attention to lists of restaurants around Paris because either the price or the food experience do not suit my taste. And I am one of the majority of Parisians who never would set foot in a restaurant where advance reservations are a must. Most of us feel that if you can't call in the afternoon and reserve for the same evening, it is not worth the bother. (Naturally, radical foodies will disagree because there are places where they <b>must</b> go.)

I will nevertheless recommend <i>Le Papillon</i> on rue de Bagnolet in the 20th arrondissement as a great old fashioned restaurant-bistro with exceptional value for the cost.

welltraveledbrit

We spent a few moths in the Marais two years ago and we ate at quite a number of the places mentioned here Le 6 Paul Bert, L'Ange 20, Pirouette which we liked etc. I blogged about some of them as wells as well as some cheap lunch/quick dinner options etc.

Here are some of the link which hopefully will be helpful, I have to say I'm with Kerouac on not worrying too much about hitting the "best" places. There does seem to be rather a foodie pilgrimage that can feel a bit precious, leaving you feeling you missed something unmissable when you can't get a reservation!

Ok here is what I've got...

Le 6 Paul Bert

http://www.somuchmoretosee.com/2013/...rth-visit.html

Less expensive options in the Marais

http://www.somuchmoretosee.com/2013/...in-marais.html

La Fourchette for discounts and several recommendations/reviews

http://www.somuchmoretosee.com/2013/...ourchette.html

Alain Milliat,

http://www.somuchmoretosee.com/2013/...estaurant.html

Just in case you're interested here's a general link to all my Paris posts....

http://www.somuchmoretosee.com/search/label/Paris

italynovice

Thanks to those who have responded so far. In checking a few spots, it indeed looks like I'm to late to book some of the most trendy/popular restaurants (ie Comptoir du Relais) but that's ok as there is no restaurant I feel like I have to eat at. I just want to have some restaurants reserved in advance to enjoy some nice food and ambiance, without last minute decisions. Mamcalice and Manouche, I will definitely try Chez Denise. Bistro Paul Bert or Le 6 Paul Bert also seem highly recommended. Manouche, crowds of "cool kids" at 61 years does not sound up my alley in regard to Le Mary Celeste and Breizh, but they are close and might be nice to try for afternoon wine and small plates, or lunch crepe in the case of Breizh.
Aliced, I'll check into Chez Jenny, which is near my apartment, and I'll definitely make reservations at Les Papilles, which I've heard great things about. I think I read that L'Ange 20 closed, so that's not an option. Robert2533, L'Ambassade d'Auvergne looks good as well as La Fountaine de Mars. Kerouac, I'll put Le Papillion on my list. It looks just perfect. Welltravelledbrit, you give good advice. Your restaurant recs were helpful; Piruette will accept reservations one month in advance, so I will make them in the next week or two. Your posts also give me a wealth of information. I'll be back in Paris next year with friends, but this trip is to wander around in some of the areas do Paris I have not been in. Any further insight and recommendations would be appreciated!

manouche

I think there's some confusion about "Les Enfants Rouges"...

There is a covered market by this name on rue de Bretagne, which is billed as "the oldest covered market in Paris", but which was only rebuilt by the City of Paris about a dozen years ago. There are a few fruit and vegetable stalls, flowers, and several ethnic fast-food places here that some people are crazy about. There's one very good stall that makes sandwiches and crepes on Saturdays. It's also virtually impossible to get a seat here on the weekends.

The restaurant called "Les Enfants Rouges" is around the corner from this market, on rue de Beauce. It's Asian-French fusion cooking, and whoever mentioned the lack of decor was absolutely correct. We've eaten here twice, and wouldn't call it a destination restaurant.

Ralstonlan

L'Ange 20 is closed because they are moving. This is a response that I recently received regarding a reservation early September:


<For the moment I can not place your booking we are moving this summer !
Normally all the refurbishment works should be done wih a re opening planned the 2nd September but you never kno with refurbishements…. So I need to wait until mid august to give you a definite answer ….

our new address will be :
44 rue des Tournelles 75004 Paris (near place des Vosges>

shellio

The restaurant Les Enfants Rouge opened a couple of years ago to good reviews and we very much enjoyed our meal there. The Japanese-French chef was previously at Comptoir du Relais. As for the decor, it is not much different from many small restos in Paris, i.e. nothing to write home about.

Terroir Parisien in the 5th (and another in the 2nd) is worth a visit. Modern French with an emphasis on reviving the old cuisine using local products. Unlike many restaurants it is open all day so can accommodate tourist schedules if you want to find a late lunch or an early dinner.

Avoid Fontaine de Mars, no longer worth the trek to the 7th, but around the corner is Pottoka, an excellent upscale Basque place that has become more and more popular and is quite small, so reserve a few days ahead.

by the way, although you may not get reservations for the weeknight "gastro" dinners at Comptoir, weekend dinners are non-reservation as are lunches. The menu is the same at lunch and dinner on those days. You will need to wait in line most of the time however unless you are there at a really off-hour. Also open all day.

welltraveledbrit

Don't worry there are people of all ages at Breizh, I like it for a late breakfast right when they open.

Keren

I enjoyed very much my meal at Au Bascou, in late 2013. This was a second visit - the first was in 2008 - and probably not the last.
http://www.au-bascou.fr/en/index.php

kerouac

If you don't mind a rustic setting and prices significantly cheaper than the fancy places, I am a big fan of Chez Papa for the specialities of Southwest France (foie gras, duck, gizzards, etc.). There are actually locations all over Paris, but my own favourite is the one at metro Louis Blanc.

If you think you want a light lunch, order the Boyarde salad for less than 10€ but I defy you to finish more than half of it.