Paris restaurants especially in Marais 3rd arr
Aug 11th, 2015, 10:21 AM
#21
Our favorite restaurant last year was L'Ange 20, 44 rue des Tournelles. I have read that it is closed for summer holiday now, but will reopen in a larger spot near Place des Vosges. Truly a spectacular meal.
From the trip report:
"At just before 8:30 we walked into this very small restaurant and were welcomed by Thierry, the owner of L’Ange 20.
I started with foie gras with toasts and fig chutney. This was the first of our 'Wow' dishes. Tracy’s starter was also a “Wow.” She had fried shrimp with a salad that included yellow tomatoes and guacamole. For her main course, Tracy opted for the cod with tomatoes and zucchini.
I ordered what turned out to be a 'Double Wow!' I dined on an excellent veal Osso Buco sans bone coupled with an incredible mushroom risotto. It was spectacular!
We engaged in conversation with a couple of Parisians who were sitting on the other side of our table. They were both quite personable and knowledgeable. One was a waiter at a Michelin starred restaurant, who said he loves L’Ange 20 so much he has to keep returning here.
Now it was time for dessert, and they were both terrific. Tracy had a Mousse au chocolat with caramelized peanuts and whipped cream, while I tried the caramelized apples topped with a macaron.
I also had a little shot of Muscat to top off an almost perfect dinner. The total bill came to €113, which included wine and the après dinner Muscat (and looking at Tracy’s upside-down notes above, we also started with a Kir Royale, so this place was really a bargain if you don’t drink as much as we do)."
Keep an eye out for this place.
I have some photos from this day of our trip...near bottom of chapter).
<B>http://travelswithmaitaitom.com/chapter-six-journees-du-patrimoine/</B>
From the trip report:
"At just before 8:30 we walked into this very small restaurant and were welcomed by Thierry, the owner of L’Ange 20.
I started with foie gras with toasts and fig chutney. This was the first of our 'Wow' dishes. Tracy’s starter was also a “Wow.” She had fried shrimp with a salad that included yellow tomatoes and guacamole. For her main course, Tracy opted for the cod with tomatoes and zucchini.
I ordered what turned out to be a 'Double Wow!' I dined on an excellent veal Osso Buco sans bone coupled with an incredible mushroom risotto. It was spectacular!
We engaged in conversation with a couple of Parisians who were sitting on the other side of our table. They were both quite personable and knowledgeable. One was a waiter at a Michelin starred restaurant, who said he loves L’Ange 20 so much he has to keep returning here.
Now it was time for dessert, and they were both terrific. Tracy had a Mousse au chocolat with caramelized peanuts and whipped cream, while I tried the caramelized apples topped with a macaron.
I also had a little shot of Muscat to top off an almost perfect dinner. The total bill came to €113, which included wine and the après dinner Muscat (and looking at Tracy’s upside-down notes above, we also started with a Kir Royale, so this place was really a bargain if you don’t drink as much as we do)."
Keep an eye out for this place.
I have some photos from this day of our trip...near bottom of chapter).
<B>http://travelswithmaitaitom.com/chapter-six-journees-du-patrimoine/</B>
Aug 11th, 2015, 10:28 AM
#22
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Can't go wrong with Paul Bert, Philou or Jenny, or L'Ambassade d'Auvergne.
I also went to La marée Jeanne, ok but more 'trendy' not really a traditional (wine was fabulous).
Close by I like Le rocher de Cancale, very touristy and if you like meat, le Chameleon is excellent - do ask for vegetables, they were very good but are not offered per se.
Le Massara is fabulous for Pizzas.
One notch above those, you may want to go to Iperiber (spanish, I loved it) and Pramil (very french, very good) - reservations mandatory there, they are small and overbooked.
Ah and to be complete, Pain vin fromage (in the 4th) is the place to get a 'fondue' or 'raclette' ...
I also went to La marée Jeanne, ok but more 'trendy' not really a traditional (wine was fabulous).
Close by I like Le rocher de Cancale, very touristy and if you like meat, le Chameleon is excellent - do ask for vegetables, they were very good but are not offered per se.
Le Massara is fabulous for Pizzas.
One notch above those, you may want to go to Iperiber (spanish, I loved it) and Pramil (very french, very good) - reservations mandatory there, they are small and overbooked.
Ah and to be complete, Pain vin fromage (in the 4th) is the place to get a 'fondue' or 'raclette' ...
Aug 11th, 2015, 10:31 AM
#23
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L'Ange 20 rue des tournelles was not open last week.
I did the street 'en long et en large' and didn't find much open.
Le gaspard de la nuit was closed, and ? and ?
I ended up in Santa Carne, which was a 'coup de coeur' for me - exceptionnal meat and a delicious cheese (hot) for a starter. Argentinian food.
But it is not in the 3rd, is it ?
I did the street 'en long et en large' and didn't find much open.
Le gaspard de la nuit was closed, and ? and ?
I ended up in Santa Carne, which was a 'coup de coeur' for me - exceptionnal meat and a delicious cheese (hot) for a starter. Argentinian food.
But it is not in the 3rd, is it ?
Aug 11th, 2015, 10:33 AM
#24
I think that just about anybody who 'thinks' they want to eat in the closest arrondissement to where they are staying quickly learns that the idea is relatively ridiculous, considering how easy it is to get around Paris.
Aug 11th, 2015, 10:47 AM
#25
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I don't think it's ridiculous at all, I prefer to eat around my hotel for dinner. That is because if I am running around all day like you do when on vacation, let alone if you do a day trip elsewhere by train, I am just too tired to want to run around Paris at night for dinner, also. I don't want to endure long metro/bus rides late at night just to eat, and since I eat fairly late, I really do not want to do that, whether it is "easy" or not. I don't want to endure any metro/bus ride, although I do once in a while for a special occasion. Also, I like to relax at a cafe near my hotel after dinner with a dessert or glass of wine (not the same place as my restaurant), and then I want to be within a block or two of my hotel to walk home from that, say if it is 11pm+.
So I understand the desire. And some of us really aren't that obsessed with food to feel the desire to travel all over Paris just to eat dinner. I'm not that picky and don't even keep a list of wellknown restaurants from food blogs to go to. It's just a different interest, I understand some people are foodies and it's a hobby. I'm not, but that doesn't mean I eat in dives or don't eat well, I just happen to stay in places with lots of decent restaurants within a few blocks, anyway. But I don't care about the most popular name places (and don't often spend that much, either, as some of them require).
So I understand the desire. And some of us really aren't that obsessed with food to feel the desire to travel all over Paris just to eat dinner. I'm not that picky and don't even keep a list of wellknown restaurants from food blogs to go to. It's just a different interest, I understand some people are foodies and it's a hobby. I'm not, but that doesn't mean I eat in dives or don't eat well, I just happen to stay in places with lots of decent restaurants within a few blocks, anyway. But I don't care about the most popular name places (and don't often spend that much, either, as some of them require).
Aug 11th, 2015, 10:57 AM
#26
I also don't think it is ridiculous, but I must admit, I like traveling to different areas of Paris not only for the cuisine, but to see areas I am not familiar with visiting. Had it not been for illness last year, we had a few restaurants in arrondissements where I had never ventured...but we shall return in the not-to-distant future.
However some nights, I do agree, after a long day of walking, eating close to where you're staying makes all the sense in the world.
However some nights, I do agree, after a long day of walking, eating close to where you're staying makes all the sense in the world.
Aug 11th, 2015, 04:10 PM
#27
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Thanks for comments and feedback. Manouche and Shellio, I will be about one block from Les Enfants Rouges, so will probably try at some point while I'm there. Good information on L'Ange 20 from Ralstonian and maitaitom. As my dates get closer I'll see if they have opened in their new location. Kerouac, Chez Papa sounds great. I love Foie Gras, duck etc. Pariswat, I realized that tripadvisor has taken over "The Fork" restaurant reservation site in Paris, and I was able to make a reservation at L'Ambassade d'Auvergne. Working on Paul Bert. Staying in an apartment so working on online options when available. Maitaitom, you have steered me right over several trips to Europe over the past several years. Cul de Sac is one of my favorites in Rome, and when spending a week in San Quirico a few years ago, you gave excellent restaurant recommendations for the towns and villages around there. Les Papilles in the 6th will be a definite, and of course L'Ange 20 if available.
To all, I totally understand and agree about traveling to different areas; Paris is a very user friendly city in terms of walking around and metro. My goal this trip is to skip the usual major tourist spots and to venture into areas I haven't been before. Just want some spots in mind near my apartment, as well as other recommendations.
Has anyone tried Philou, Juveniles, or Le Metropolitan?
To all, I totally understand and agree about traveling to different areas; Paris is a very user friendly city in terms of walking around and metro. My goal this trip is to skip the usual major tourist spots and to venture into areas I haven't been before. Just want some spots in mind near my apartment, as well as other recommendations.
Has anyone tried Philou, Juveniles, or Le Metropolitan?
Aug 11th, 2015, 05:11 PM
#28
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Hi,
Thought I would jump in with a few suggestions of some take-out food nearby in the upper Marais to bring back to your apartment.
We bought some AMAZING bread at Poilane (38 rue Debelleyme). We also popped in next door at Popelini for yummy eclairs (29 rue Debelleyme). There were lots of traiteurs on the rue de Bretagne and we also went to the Marche de la Bastille (Thurs and Sun) and picked up great fruits, cheeses, dried fruit/nuts, olives and prepared foods (an amazing Basque chicken with roasted veg).
Bon appetit!
Thought I would jump in with a few suggestions of some take-out food nearby in the upper Marais to bring back to your apartment.
We bought some AMAZING bread at Poilane (38 rue Debelleyme). We also popped in next door at Popelini for yummy eclairs (29 rue Debelleyme). There were lots of traiteurs on the rue de Bretagne and we also went to the Marche de la Bastille (Thurs and Sun) and picked up great fruits, cheeses, dried fruit/nuts, olives and prepared foods (an amazing Basque chicken with roasted veg).
Bon appetit!
Aug 11th, 2015, 10:10 PM
#29
I've been to Philou, which is quite nice, but frankly I consider walking along the Canal Saint Martin before or after the meal (or both) as being more interesting than the meal itself. All of the 'old bistro' places end up seeming the same to me after awhile.
Aug 11th, 2015, 10:28 PM
#30
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Hi Italy
Yes, I did go to Philou - I went to the restaurants/hotels I mention, I won't tell anybody about second hand exp or say 'the reviews are ok'.
I'm like Ker on that one, I liked it but would not make a big fuss, and yes, all old brasseries tend to blur after a while.
I liked the atmosphere more than the food (which was ok).
mvg.
Yes, I did go to Philou - I went to the restaurants/hotels I mention, I won't tell anybody about second hand exp or say 'the reviews are ok'.
I'm like Ker on that one, I liked it but would not make a big fuss, and yes, all old brasseries tend to blur after a while.
I liked the atmosphere more than the food (which was ok).
mvg.
Aug 12th, 2015, 03:20 AM
#31
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If you hadn't been to Cafe des Musees between 2008 and last year, you missed some really good food, which is sadly missed by a lot of us. If your visits didn't coincide with those glory days, you are getting exactly the same food that there was before. Fine, if that's all you expected - but there are a lot of sad faces in here, nowadays.
Don't make the mistake of confusing Le 6 Paul Bert with the Bistrot Paul Bert a couple of doors down the street. My money has always been on the Bistrot itself, since we don't like the somewhat "clubby" atmosphere and the artfully-arranged small plates of Le 6. And next door to BPB is L'Ecailler du Bistrot - absolutely wonderful for fresh fish and shellfish. Worth a serious hit to the wallet.
We like Philou a lot, except when the owner is a little too drunk and crabby and takes out his angst on English-speaking tourists. Food is very good, though not always earth-shattering. Maybe it's just the Summer doldrums, though.
Been to Metropolitain - I think it's probably not worth a visit.
Claude Colliot on rue des Blancs Manteaux does a much better job and in a nicer atmosphere.
Don't make the mistake of confusing Le 6 Paul Bert with the Bistrot Paul Bert a couple of doors down the street. My money has always been on the Bistrot itself, since we don't like the somewhat "clubby" atmosphere and the artfully-arranged small plates of Le 6. And next door to BPB is L'Ecailler du Bistrot - absolutely wonderful for fresh fish and shellfish. Worth a serious hit to the wallet.
We like Philou a lot, except when the owner is a little too drunk and crabby and takes out his angst on English-speaking tourists. Food is very good, though not always earth-shattering. Maybe it's just the Summer doldrums, though.
Been to Metropolitain - I think it's probably not worth a visit.
Claude Colliot on rue des Blancs Manteaux does a much better job and in a nicer atmosphere.
Aug 12th, 2015, 04:41 AM
#32
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As noted above, we tried Le Metropolitan and liked it very much. We will definitely go back.
I am a bit mystified about the comments re: the "decor" at Les Enfants Rouges. The restaurant is operated by a Japanese couple and the decor is minimalist. It is not something to notice unless you are going for the decor. If you are going for the food, don't miss it.
I am a bit mystified about the comments re: the "decor" at Les Enfants Rouges. The restaurant is operated by a Japanese couple and the decor is minimalist. It is not something to notice unless you are going for the decor. If you are going for the food, don't miss it.
Aug 12th, 2015, 05:15 AM
#33
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Jacobins, love the takeout suggestions- thanks! Kerouac, Manouche, Pariswat, I have never wandered through the Canal St Martin area and plan to do so. So, Philou will be a good spot to stop by for a meal when I explore that area.
Aug 12th, 2015, 05:36 AM
#34
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Italy
I go each year and have a late picnic on canal saint-martin.
The rue du Lancry (perpendicular to the canal) is full of small shops - I usually go to a turkish snack, get falafel etc, then buy a bottle of wine (asking to uncork it), some bread - all of it available in the same street, there is even a Monop and ... one leg dangling above water level...
I go each year and have a late picnic on canal saint-martin.
The rue du Lancry (perpendicular to the canal) is full of small shops - I usually go to a turkish snack, get falafel etc, then buy a bottle of wine (asking to uncork it), some bread - all of it available in the same street, there is even a Monop and ... one leg dangling above water level...
Sep 20th, 2015, 02:23 PM
#36
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Hi! I am in Paris and thought I would give some restaurant feedback, as all of you were so helpful as I was planning my trip.
Philou - wandered over in the St Martin area during my jet lag initial day and had a nice lunchtime meal there. Foie Gras and a Duck breast main course. Very friendly, and my waiter even offered to package the remainder of my foie gras that I could not finish so I could enjoy it later - a first!
Le Chemise - pork in puffed pastry. Very good;
Angelina- foie gras and champagne; a tradition
Le Hanger - wonderful cream of lentil soup with floating bits of seared foie gras.
Asparagus/pancetta risotto - maybe best meal of trip. Highly recommend.
Au Bourguignon du Marais- wonderful escargots and beef bourguignon
Les Papilles- set meal; cauliflower soup and slow roasted lamb. Delicious.
The Moose- terrible food (nachos). Went to watch an LSU football game with Parisian World Cup fans. At least LSU won.
Les Enfants Rouges- some had said not worth going to, grungy etc. I was warmly greeted, sat at bar as I was solo and had no reservation, and had the best seat in the house. Got to watch the chef do his thing, and the efficiency of the operation of the restaurant. Had soft boiled egg, herbs, canilonni beans, roasted beets, foamed seaweed as entree, then beef bourgignon as main with Asian influence, citrus essence and beautiful red wine sauce. Much lighter than typical beef bourgignon. Waitstaff very friendly and gracious. Highly recommend.
Robert et Louise - no reservation. Sat at bar. Escargot and steak/potatoes. Nothing wrong with it. Great cheese plate for dessert.
I have a French sauce class tomorrow then dinner at Pirouette. Looking forward to it. Definite diet when I get home!
Don't like desserts so no dessert recommendations.
Thanks for great advice! I have the recommendations I did not take advantage of saved for a trip I am taking in May with friends.
Philou - wandered over in the St Martin area during my jet lag initial day and had a nice lunchtime meal there. Foie Gras and a Duck breast main course. Very friendly, and my waiter even offered to package the remainder of my foie gras that I could not finish so I could enjoy it later - a first!
Le Chemise - pork in puffed pastry. Very good;
Angelina- foie gras and champagne; a tradition
Le Hanger - wonderful cream of lentil soup with floating bits of seared foie gras.
Asparagus/pancetta risotto - maybe best meal of trip. Highly recommend.
Au Bourguignon du Marais- wonderful escargots and beef bourguignon
Les Papilles- set meal; cauliflower soup and slow roasted lamb. Delicious.
The Moose- terrible food (nachos). Went to watch an LSU football game with Parisian World Cup fans. At least LSU won.
Les Enfants Rouges- some had said not worth going to, grungy etc. I was warmly greeted, sat at bar as I was solo and had no reservation, and had the best seat in the house. Got to watch the chef do his thing, and the efficiency of the operation of the restaurant. Had soft boiled egg, herbs, canilonni beans, roasted beets, foamed seaweed as entree, then beef bourgignon as main with Asian influence, citrus essence and beautiful red wine sauce. Much lighter than typical beef bourgignon. Waitstaff very friendly and gracious. Highly recommend.
Robert et Louise - no reservation. Sat at bar. Escargot and steak/potatoes. Nothing wrong with it. Great cheese plate for dessert.
I have a French sauce class tomorrow then dinner at Pirouette. Looking forward to it. Definite diet when I get home!
Don't like desserts so no dessert recommendations.
Thanks for great advice! I have the recommendations I did not take advantage of saved for a trip I am taking in May with friends.
Sep 20th, 2015, 02:36 PM
#37
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Oh, and my second favorite restaurant, l'Ange 20' where I had a coarse pate in pastry entree and a roasted lamb with carrots and mashed potatoes for main. Very friendly, unpretentious restaurant that I will definitely go back to next time I'm in Paris.
Sep 20th, 2015, 03:01 PM
#38
"l'Ange 20'"
I believe they are opening at a new location in October (I went to their Facebook page since TripAdvisor said it had closed). The new address will be 44 Rue Des Tournelles Paris 4 (very near Place des Vosges)). L'Ange 20 was our favorite Paris restaurant in 2014.
https://www.facebook.com/Lange-20-20...8947/timeline/
I believe they are opening at a new location in October (I went to their Facebook page since TripAdvisor said it had closed). The new address will be 44 Rue Des Tournelles Paris 4 (very near Place des Vosges)). L'Ange 20 was our favorite Paris restaurant in 2014.
https://www.facebook.com/Lange-20-20...8947/timeline/
Sep 20th, 2015, 03:27 PM
#39
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Juveniles is fine but not a destination restaurant. We've stayed nearby a few times and go there mainly for wine. Service is fast and friendly and we also find it to be a good arrival night option as we can eat quickly and be in bed by 8pm 
Enjoy the rest of your stay!
Enjoy the rest of your stay!
Sep 20th, 2015, 09:03 PM
#40
One of the best night out dining for me alone was at Chez Denise You are tightly seated next to others. I was between two couples, both French and delightful . One of the couples were relatives of our waiter, so he joined in our converstion whenever he was not too busy.
