Paris Report - first timer observations
 

Just back from a lovely week in Paris - first time visit, and thought I would share some of my observations since I used this forum so much in my planning:
Arrival: Took the taxi - have taken the Gatwick Express and the tube from Heathrow to Victoria Station. No problem. But after looking at the metro map, I decided the taxis was the best way to go and I was very happy with the decision. Got off the plane, found a driver who took credit cards (no waiting for a shuttle), and was delivered right to Rue Cler. The hotel made the return reservation for us, on the morning of our departure our driver arrived promptly and dropped us right at check in. The metro is great to use to get around, but the taxi is the easiest from/to CDG.
Hotel: Stayed at Hotel Leveque on Rue Cler. Was concerned about the Rick Steves recommend and that it would be too touristy with Americans or not very nice. This was not the case at all. The hotel smelled wonderful when we entered (no smoke!) and our room was fresh and clean, though small as a two star hotel will be. Small, but well arranged and organized. We had a front, walk out balcony, that looked down on the markets and we could even see the top of the Eiffel Tower. There was very little noise from the street - shut the window, shut out the noise. The only noise we had was through the walls from some rowdy American teenagers who checked in two nights before we left. Where were their parents or chaperones? They finally settled down when the manager asked them to be quiet. Definitely an international hotel with all the comforts. Will definitely stay there again.
The 7th Arr: The 7th is a wonderful area, bustling during the day with regular Parisians going about their lives - working, eating in cafes, shopping, the school children playing were charming. Wonderful fruit, flower (everywhere!), and meat markets. Bread shops, cheese shops, chocolate shops, wine shops, and all right outside your door. Saw very few signs of English except a few posted menus. Don't be fooled by some of the posts on the forum - the Rue Cler and the 7th is Paris at its best. A lovely area. Many of the shop keepers spoke some English which made it easy to communicate since my French is definitely lacking. We had a picnic twice: One sunny Sunday afternoon we put together a picnic from the shops around the hotel, caught the Metro to The Tuileries Garden, and had a wonderful afternoon - eating on a park bench, drinking wine and watching the other people strolling, napping, just hanging out. Our second picnic was in the park at the Eiffel Tower - a wrapped sandwich and a soft drink - great view of the tower. The 7th is quiet at night, but not dead - restaurants are busy, small shops are open in early evening. It was an oasis after the bustle of site seeing during the day. I found the area around the Sorbonne much more hectic and quite frankly a little tacky - I saw no McDonalds in the 7th.

Shopping: The stores in the St. Germain area are very nice and upscale. Tried to follow Degas?s walk, and found La Maison Ivre the little shop on Rue Jacob that sold beautiful pottery. Bought several pieces and wished I could have bought more - that ended our walk, it was back to the hotel with our breakable purchases. Also the shops on Ile St. Louis are lovely. The Champs Elise is dressed up like 5th Avenue - too big city for my taste. It started to rain heavily, so we ducked into the Metro and spent the afternoon and evening at the Louvre - open till 9:30 on Wednesdays.

Sites: First timers, definitely take the site-seeing boat tour down the Seine. You can get a boat right at the Eiffel Tower. We took the trip just before dusk, so that we saw everything going down the river towards the Ile St. Louis and on the way back the sun had set, the lights came on, and we got some spectacular shots of the Eiffel Tower and other landmarks that were illuminated.

Museum Pass: Bought the museum pass at the Rodin Museum late afternoon- no line. Not only saw the Rodin, but also Napoleon's tomb (they were closing, but since we had the pass, they waived us right in). We actually got 6 days on the 5 day pass because the ticket agent didn't start the ticket until the following day. I don't know if this was a mistake, or his kindness, but you can always ask if it is late in the day:-) Never stood in lines - and believe me they were long - because you get ahead of everyone else buying tickets.
Day trip to Versailles. Easy train ride from Paris. The palace was great - got there when they opened - the only two people in the Hall of Mirrors. But at this time of year the gardens were dormant and many of the statues were covered up - will have to go back at a better time.

Final advice - take a digital camera. We took over 400 pictures - I would have to sell my house for film processing. Don?t worry about fitting in - it is obvious you are American (shoes, glasses, hairstyles), just as it is obvious someone is British, Spanish, or Italian. It helps that you look like who you are - they will speak English to you without asking:-) I saw no one relieving themselves on the streets, there were plenty of trees everywhere, and though reserved, the people were very nice and helpful. There was no anti American bias in sight, just a lovely city that I can't wait to return to.

Donna, sounds like you had a wonderful trip. What was the name of that pottery shop? I love pottery and bring some home whenever I can.

Donna, glad to see you had a very positive experience.

I agree that shopping (treasure hunting) and walks often don't mix. Save it for next time.

And your right about the 7th - I failed to see a McDonald's either (and you know I was looking hard).

Hi Donna,

Thanks for such a lovely posting. I'm glad your first visit to Paris was so wonderful. Sounds like the weather was great if you could picnic. I agree about the Seine boats - they're fun. I've taken them even on my sixth trip to Paris.

<< I saw no one relieving themselves on the streets, there were plenty of trees everywhere>>

I never saw anyone relieving themselves on the streets either, but I never thought to look behind the trees. I'll know better next visit.

Thanks for the post, Donna! Sounds like your trip was wonderful! My first time in Paris will be at the end of December for just a few days, staying in the 7th at Hotel Valadon (selected based on recommendations on this board!) and I'm really excited to see this charming neighborhood you've described.

Hi Donna,

Glad you enjoyed the 7th. It is my favorite place to stay. Great restautants and shops, and i really enjoy the Rue Cler, too, especially in the early morning. The 7th's advantage to me is I can always go to another part of Paris for the evening where the crowds are heavy and loud, and then hop the Metro and go to sleep where it is quiet.

And Donna, we would, of course, like to hear more about some of your favorite Paris places, restaurants and experiences. Welcome back.
((H))

Great to hear about your trip, Donna. The 7me has long been my favorite area of Paris as well, for exactly the reasons you and MaiTaiTom mention. Also all the lovely little shops and restaurants on the rue Ste-Dominique.

Glad it was such a positive experience for you.

Swalter518: The shop has Provencal pottery and is at Le Maison Ivre (38 Rue Jacob, near the church of Ste Germaine) -- another poster gave me the information and I am very grateful. I will definitely go back. Also, do a search on "pottery" and you will get some other great ideas.
Ron: Those were two separate ideas, but I love the humor- I never thought to look behind the trees either:-)
maitaitom: I was amazed at the number of restaurants in Paris. Rick Steves says there are over 12,000 cafes in Paris, and he must be right because they are everywhere! Whenever we got hungry, we would look down the small side streets - there are cozy little restaurants serving all types of food. Because I am picky about my meat being well done, we ate Italian several times and it was wonderful. The cafes on almost every corner serve a variety of food. There is Chinese and even Pizza. The sandwiches are also great for lunch or a light dinner. We did not get a bad meal anywhere. We read the posted menu - you can't go wrong. Also, order the table wines in a carafe. Less expensive and always good.
Oh and I forgot to mention that the the roof of the Samartine department store
is open - I think I read an earlier post that it was closed, but the day we were there it was open - the weather was too bad to stay long, but the view was great. Also, Samartine is a great place to get gifts. We bought several things there and then walked over the bridge to Notre Dame.
I can't wait to go back - but I am off to Barcelona in May, so I have to switch gears soon and get busy planning the new trip. I love to travel!

Hi Donna,

Glad you enjoyed your visit. Thanks for sharing.

Donna, I'm back now a week. I am suffering serious "post travel let-down"! <GRIN> Lucky you... ready to plan your next trip

Hi Donna, you mentioned you took over 400 digital pics. Did you bring a few 256MB cards or did you download your pictures at a cybercafe? I am curious because we are considering our options for our trip to Italy. Thank you!

Pegg: No downloading necessary. We bought an extra stick with the expanded memory - only used that stick. We also, I believe, did not use the highest resolution - not many faces, but tons of street scenes, monuments, etc. My husband knows the more technical aspects of the camera so that is why I am so vague:-) We took pictures all day and in the evening I would review the shots, keep the best ones, and delete the others. Then we were ready for the next day. The memory stick was almost full when we returned. Check to see what expanded memory is available and get the most for your money. It is well worth it.

Pegg,
my 2.2 megaapix camera gets almost 1500 pictures on a 256 card, at good resolution and I think 550 at high resolution.

We just got back from Paris a couple weeks ago. I took nearly 400 pictures a day! Each evening I downloaded them onto my laptop and then saved them onto a CD I took for that purpose. The laptop fit right behind my legs under the airplane seat and was not a problem.

If you don't want to take your computer, there are lots of cybercafes all over town and many hotels now have Internet access either in rooms on in the lounge or lobby.

We're inveterate Latin Quarter lovers but the 7th is beautiful. Unfortunately, I think I was born without a shopping gene . . . seriously deficient!!

Glad you enjoyed your trip. Sounds terrific.

Re: &quot;<i>just a lovely city that I can't wait to return to.</i>&quot;

Hi Donna. Glad to hear that's your impression and feeling after your first-time visit!

...and the best part about your post...no mention of dog droppings or men urinating.....I'm so tired of that banter. Thanks Donna for a great post with some good ideas for my next trip....I need to find that pottery shop!!!

In the mean time - for your shopping pleasure:

http://www.emosaique.com/html/arts_ceramics.asp

La Maison Ivre is a wonderful shop. I have been there on every trip to Paris and now have this pottery all over my kitchen. Makes me want to go back just to get more (well maybe also to have some nice restaurant meals and watch the sunlight through the windows at Sainte Chapelle and get back to the flea market and explore some new neighborhoods and...)

Seafox, thanks for the interesting website, I hadn't seen that one before.

Thanks for your report Donna. We stayed in the 7th (Ave. Rapp &amp; St. Dom.) this past October and tried to post our report here but had system difficulties. You can find it on bparis.com under Trip Reports/Parisperfect.... Check it out if you consider renting an appartment in Paris. JP

I had never seen a mention here of La Maison Ivre, my favorite little shop in Paris. I can't get enough of that stuff!

Nice report.