PARIS RENDEVOUS July-August 2010. My Trip Report.
Sep 9th, 2010, 08:34 PM
#43
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Hiya Leely! I have lovely thoughts of you all at the GTG which seems so long ago now. Yes, I see you went to Rwanda (I think) and if that doesn't take wanderlust I don't know what does! Keep well and keep reading, Tod.
cfweeb - Sometimes 1 hour, but now I am sure we are on the same time. Only when daylight savings comes into effect in the UK we sometimes go 2 hours diff. between us & UK.
If I got that wrong I hope someone has the correct answer!
cfweeb - Sometimes 1 hour, but now I am sure we are on the same time. Only when daylight savings comes into effect in the UK we sometimes go 2 hours diff. between us & UK.
If I got that wrong I hope someone has the correct answer!
Sep 10th, 2010, 03:42 AM
#44
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One further link to the Ile de la Jatte some may find informative. It also has a map of the whole island but is 2 years out of date.
http://tinyurl.com/3xgdsqo
Wednesday 28th July.
After another delicious breakfast we check out of the hotel but not before noticing we have been charged for the breakfasts. Delving into our trusty 'file' I find the print-out of the reservation. There it is in black & white, 'Breakfast included'. So it's back to the receptionist who had to give us a refund of 50euros (4 breakfasts).
So folks, take that copy with you and check your bill details thoroughly. I sometimes think they slip-up on purpose.......
I must also correct the fact I said we received towelling slippers, had a minibar fridge etc. Sorry!, that was at the Hotel Relaise Bosquet, where we are now about to check in!
We took the bus & did the taxi thing so were able to leave our luggage at the Relaise Bosquet in rue Champs de Mars (under the breakfast serving table) and head out for the day.
Then it was time to hop on the metro to Chatelet for our first adventure. This was simply to follow up on something I had read about 17th century vaults which could be viewed from the platform, line 7 to Courneuve, exit rue Saint-Martin.
They are slightly higher than the tunnel. The fact that they date back to the 17thC makes them the oldest architectural element of the entire Paris Metro!
In 1921 engineers discovered the old vaults on the edge of the Seine while working on the site of the Ivry-Villette Metro line. The rubble, piping and sewer outlets obstructing them were carefully cleared out, and, at the request of the experts on the city Committee for Old Paris, the vaults were preserved.
They are still there today, and the best view of them is from the footbridge between the two platforms.
Well, I did my best to try and see what I was supposed to be looking at but quite frankly I am still not sure if I saw the correct thing - It's pretty dark in there!
Later, taking a wander around in the area of Place Opportune, past Fontaine des Innocents and the gardens at Forum les Halles, we pass by the Bourse with it's semi-circular building. DH stops to take a photo of the Colonne Medicis, also known as The Astrologer's Tower, in rue de Viarmes.
It is one of the monuments of Paris most surrounded by mystery. At the base, an inscription in Latin states that it is the sole relic of the manor house built in 1572 by Catherine de Medicis on the sight of one of Louis d'Orleans residences.
Apparantly she had the tower built for her astrologer, Cosimo Ruggieri, who had considerable influence over her.
In legends the tower appears to be protected by some sort of magic spell, and a tall black silhouette appears in the metal cage at the top on stormy nights when lightning flashes across the sky........... I can see the tourists queueing up for that one!
We stop and take a breather at a delightful little cafe called Le Victoria. It is very hot today and my trusty Leffe does wonders. Sauntering on amid the little streets we arrive at 14 rue Coquilliere and the restaurant Assiette Aveyronaise. Their speciality, l'Aligot Saucisse is tempting and I have heard so much about l'aligot.
It's 2pm by now and apart from one other table we are the only ones there.
The waitress brings the big copper pot to the table. She stirs the mashed potatoes and Comte` cheese mixture by lifting the 'goo' with a large wooden spoon high above the pot several times before putting a helping onto our plates. The sausage is in a slight gravy sauce.
I like the sausage but when it came to the l'aligot, after several mouthfuls I was done. Just too cheesy, and I found the texture somewhat similar to bubblegum.
Still a small space for the desert we share their famous millefeuilles. It's a huge chunk and although delicious, could not be conquered! Bill:40.70 with beer & coke.
Here's the link: http://tinyurl.com/394w2p3
Just before leaving a couple with a small child called over and asked us if we would like free Batobus tickets. They could not use them for one reason or another so were very happy when we said we would LOVE them! Worth around 13 euros each we decided to go off immediately in search of a Batobus stop.
Cruising down the river....
And don't so many of us just love those Seine cruises!
Hopping aboard at the Batobus stop St Germain we merrily sail past all the most recognised buildings.
I am able to see how big my little willow tree has grown since last year - it's at the end of Square du Vert-Galant with a smaller tree immediately behind it.
After a tremendous storm in about 2002/2003 the original 100 year old willow so well known to lovers of Paris, had to be chopped down as it was unsteady. A great shame, and a shock when I arrived one day and saw NOTHING there! Upon each visit it was my habit of going to sit & lean up against the trunk, and let the world go by.
Please forgive me when I refer to something as 'MY' this and 'My' that! I have, in my insane love of this city unashamedley claimed several parts of it!
When I saw the old tree gone and the new little sapling, it became 'my baby willow tree' - When I saw the young vineyard planted high ontop of the metro station, it automatically became 'my' vineyard as none of you knew a thing about it! Ha Ha!
Stepping ashore at the Eiffel Tower we stay and watch the antics of the entertainers - I mainly watch to see whose being pick-pockted.
By now I really am feeling the heat, so make it back to the hotel for a shower and change.
Later after a rest we set off once again in the cooler evening in search of dinner but we are not all that hungry.
Walking down rue Cler we stop for a sundowner at Cafe du Marche before continuing down rue Saint Dominique. Getting as far as Cafe Constant ( which was packed) then carried on to Au Bon Accueil in rue de Monttessuy. The menu didn't appeal so in desperation we sat outside at Chez Ming, 6 rue de Monttessuy.
They had a set menu which was very reasonable. With wine & a beer we were handed a bill for 38.40euros. The food was OK but we have been spoilt now by the delicious meal at Chez Yau!
A nice slow relaxing walk back, DH takes time to photograph the Eiffel Tower but it's difficult as we are so close and the trees are getting in the way.
Down our street, rue Champ de Mars, there is a very ornate building with a lovely door. It looks particularly pretty in the lamplight.
Time to turn in......
Photos: S O O N!
http://tinyurl.com/3xgdsqo
Wednesday 28th July.
After another delicious breakfast we check out of the hotel but not before noticing we have been charged for the breakfasts. Delving into our trusty 'file' I find the print-out of the reservation. There it is in black & white, 'Breakfast included'. So it's back to the receptionist who had to give us a refund of 50euros (4 breakfasts).
So folks, take that copy with you and check your bill details thoroughly. I sometimes think they slip-up on purpose.......
I must also correct the fact I said we received towelling slippers, had a minibar fridge etc. Sorry!, that was at the Hotel Relaise Bosquet, where we are now about to check in!
We took the bus & did the taxi thing so were able to leave our luggage at the Relaise Bosquet in rue Champs de Mars (under the breakfast serving table) and head out for the day.
Then it was time to hop on the metro to Chatelet for our first adventure. This was simply to follow up on something I had read about 17th century vaults which could be viewed from the platform, line 7 to Courneuve, exit rue Saint-Martin.
They are slightly higher than the tunnel. The fact that they date back to the 17thC makes them the oldest architectural element of the entire Paris Metro!
In 1921 engineers discovered the old vaults on the edge of the Seine while working on the site of the Ivry-Villette Metro line. The rubble, piping and sewer outlets obstructing them were carefully cleared out, and, at the request of the experts on the city Committee for Old Paris, the vaults were preserved.
They are still there today, and the best view of them is from the footbridge between the two platforms.
Well, I did my best to try and see what I was supposed to be looking at but quite frankly I am still not sure if I saw the correct thing - It's pretty dark in there!
Later, taking a wander around in the area of Place Opportune, past Fontaine des Innocents and the gardens at Forum les Halles, we pass by the Bourse with it's semi-circular building. DH stops to take a photo of the Colonne Medicis, also known as The Astrologer's Tower, in rue de Viarmes.
It is one of the monuments of Paris most surrounded by mystery. At the base, an inscription in Latin states that it is the sole relic of the manor house built in 1572 by Catherine de Medicis on the sight of one of Louis d'Orleans residences.
Apparantly she had the tower built for her astrologer, Cosimo Ruggieri, who had considerable influence over her.
In legends the tower appears to be protected by some sort of magic spell, and a tall black silhouette appears in the metal cage at the top on stormy nights when lightning flashes across the sky........... I can see the tourists queueing up for that one!
We stop and take a breather at a delightful little cafe called Le Victoria. It is very hot today and my trusty Leffe does wonders. Sauntering on amid the little streets we arrive at 14 rue Coquilliere and the restaurant Assiette Aveyronaise. Their speciality, l'Aligot Saucisse is tempting and I have heard so much about l'aligot.
It's 2pm by now and apart from one other table we are the only ones there.
The waitress brings the big copper pot to the table. She stirs the mashed potatoes and Comte` cheese mixture by lifting the 'goo' with a large wooden spoon high above the pot several times before putting a helping onto our plates. The sausage is in a slight gravy sauce.
I like the sausage but when it came to the l'aligot, after several mouthfuls I was done. Just too cheesy, and I found the texture somewhat similar to bubblegum.
Still a small space for the desert we share their famous millefeuilles. It's a huge chunk and although delicious, could not be conquered! Bill:40.70 with beer & coke.
Here's the link: http://tinyurl.com/394w2p3
Just before leaving a couple with a small child called over and asked us if we would like free Batobus tickets. They could not use them for one reason or another so were very happy when we said we would LOVE them! Worth around 13 euros each we decided to go off immediately in search of a Batobus stop.
Cruising down the river....
And don't so many of us just love those Seine cruises!
Hopping aboard at the Batobus stop St Germain we merrily sail past all the most recognised buildings.
I am able to see how big my little willow tree has grown since last year - it's at the end of Square du Vert-Galant with a smaller tree immediately behind it.
After a tremendous storm in about 2002/2003 the original 100 year old willow so well known to lovers of Paris, had to be chopped down as it was unsteady. A great shame, and a shock when I arrived one day and saw NOTHING there! Upon each visit it was my habit of going to sit & lean up against the trunk, and let the world go by.
Please forgive me when I refer to something as 'MY' this and 'My' that! I have, in my insane love of this city unashamedley claimed several parts of it!
When I saw the old tree gone and the new little sapling, it became 'my baby willow tree' - When I saw the young vineyard planted high ontop of the metro station, it automatically became 'my' vineyard as none of you knew a thing about it! Ha Ha!
Stepping ashore at the Eiffel Tower we stay and watch the antics of the entertainers - I mainly watch to see whose being pick-pockted.
By now I really am feeling the heat, so make it back to the hotel for a shower and change.
Later after a rest we set off once again in the cooler evening in search of dinner but we are not all that hungry.
Walking down rue Cler we stop for a sundowner at Cafe du Marche before continuing down rue Saint Dominique. Getting as far as Cafe Constant ( which was packed) then carried on to Au Bon Accueil in rue de Monttessuy. The menu didn't appeal so in desperation we sat outside at Chez Ming, 6 rue de Monttessuy.
They had a set menu which was very reasonable. With wine & a beer we were handed a bill for 38.40euros. The food was OK but we have been spoilt now by the delicious meal at Chez Yau!
A nice slow relaxing walk back, DH takes time to photograph the Eiffel Tower but it's difficult as we are so close and the trees are getting in the way.
Down our street, rue Champ de Mars, there is a very ornate building with a lovely door. It looks particularly pretty in the lamplight.
Time to turn in......
Photos: S O O N!
Sep 10th, 2010, 09:31 AM
#45
hi tod,
loving the report - you write so vividly.
So folks, take that copy with you and check your bill details thoroughly. I sometimes think they slip-up on purpose.......>>
this cropped up on another current thread. I ALWAYS check for the rogue orange juice [funny how often they occur on the bill] and the item you ordered but which never made it to the table.
I find it pays to behave as if I believe it to have been an innocent mistake.
looking forward to more!
loving the report - you write so vividly.
So folks, take that copy with you and check your bill details thoroughly. I sometimes think they slip-up on purpose.......>>
this cropped up on another current thread. I ALWAYS check for the rogue orange juice [funny how often they occur on the bill] and the item you ordered but which never made it to the table.
I find it pays to behave as if I believe it to have been an innocent mistake.
looking forward to more!
Sep 10th, 2010, 09:53 AM
#46
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To Continue......
We walk along looking down on the Paris Plaqe. It looks so lovely & Meditteranean They are certainly going to feel sunburned tonight!
While we were on the Place Pont Neuf looking down at Square Vert Galant I remembered something significant about that Henry IV statue sitting astride his horse.
I only wish I could remember which book in this collection of books I have on Paris, the information came from, so it could be related word for word and correctly!
I am hoping someone will set me straight if I falter.
It's HOT - did I mention that? There is an artist brushing away painstakingly at his canvas. I go over an take a peek.
'Oh, that's beautiful' I tell him. 'Thank you. I'm just adding the sunlight to the stonework on the bridge - yesterday when I painted it, it was dull and overcast'.
I have to finish it today as I'm on the last Eurostar to London tonight, then flying to New York for an exhibition'.
I'm impressed - Gosh, he is probably someone very famous and I don't recognise him.
Eventually, I say "Do you know what's special about that George IV statue"? Reply: No, what?
"Well, oneday when they were renovating it they discovered a smaller statue in the horses belly"
"Really, how fascinating"
"Yes, isn't it - If you want to see where they took it out look over here - there's the scar" I point to a distinct join underneath the horse.
"Well, well, so there is"!
I leave him adding brush stroke after brush stroke before I spy another person peering over his shoulder......
Photos: http://tinyurl.com/3848odz
We walk along looking down on the Paris Plaqe. It looks so lovely & Meditteranean They are certainly going to feel sunburned tonight!
While we were on the Place Pont Neuf looking down at Square Vert Galant I remembered something significant about that Henry IV statue sitting astride his horse.
I only wish I could remember which book in this collection of books I have on Paris, the information came from, so it could be related word for word and correctly!
I am hoping someone will set me straight if I falter.
It's HOT - did I mention that? There is an artist brushing away painstakingly at his canvas. I go over an take a peek.
'Oh, that's beautiful' I tell him. 'Thank you. I'm just adding the sunlight to the stonework on the bridge - yesterday when I painted it, it was dull and overcast'.
I have to finish it today as I'm on the last Eurostar to London tonight, then flying to New York for an exhibition'.
I'm impressed - Gosh, he is probably someone very famous and I don't recognise him.
Eventually, I say "Do you know what's special about that George IV statue"? Reply: No, what?
"Well, oneday when they were renovating it they discovered a smaller statue in the horses belly"
"Really, how fascinating"
"Yes, isn't it - If you want to see where they took it out look over here - there's the scar" I point to a distinct join underneath the horse.
"Well, well, so there is"!
I leave him adding brush stroke after brush stroke before I spy another person peering over his shoulder......
Photos: http://tinyurl.com/3848odz
Sep 10th, 2010, 10:03 AM
#47
I kind of think it's a shame, tod, but all of those trellises that you photographed at Les Halles are being ripped down. The garden is going to be completely redone, and most of what is currently there will not be part of the future, although the big stone head at Place René Cassin has been saved by popular outcry.
Sep 11th, 2010, 01:57 AM
#48
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Kerouac - Let's hope whatever they have in mind supersedes the already very attractive area. Although we have taken many photos of this garden over the years. I am glad we took a few more just for 'oldtimes sake'.
Our Last day in Paris before Canada:
Thursday 29th July.
Making good use of the tea and coffe making fascilities in our room we have the little cakes and biscuits as a breakfast
before starting out on this last day before catching our Airtransat flight to Calgary. At this point I am blissfully unaware of the possible predicament we are headed for.
Explorations in the 15th...
Jumping on a bus around the corner we then change to the number 42 bus headed to Charles Michels.
We were intending to have lunch in the area but long before that hour arrived I wantd to see a little of the 15th arr.
We got off the bus and headed to the large Monoprix. Maybe they would have the hair product I have so far unsuccessfully not been able to find.
I don't, but their fish counter looks good!
After looking around observing the locals at their daily lives, it's time for a cofee at Bistrot Linois before walking some more.
We make our way down Rue Lourmel towards 13 Rue Beatrix Dussane/ 16 Rue Lourmel, to the restaurant 'Le Volant'.
All on it's own in a quite street, this locals only hideaway is as French as you can get. The theme of the decor is a sporting one but far from a Sports Bar/Cafe found today.
Old photograhs of Georges JoJo Houel a past racing car driver, hug the walls. An attempt has been made to add a modern touch probably since Georges passed away in 2008. A few team jerseys, a flag or two and of all things, a vuvuzella! That really surprised me, but I guess the recent World Cup snuck in here in quite a big way.
We do not have a reservation but that's no problem and we are guided to a delightful spot in a corner.
The menu is quite extensive but I have one thing on my mind and it's Boeuf Bourguignon. This is the house speciality and I'm here to see if it can beat the one I had some years back at a teeny place in rue Francs Bourgeois quite near the Musee Carnavalet.
Well, it doesn't disappoint and is served with three accompaniments. One pot of mashed potatoe, one of rice, and one of a creamy sort of couscous/grits - I hope someone can jolt my memory as to what it could have been. It's OK, but I think an acquired taste. But what can a person say about French mash except it's divine!
So was the beef. Dark rich chunks just falling apart at the touch. In the sauce little button mushrooms - and on top of the portion, some crispy bacon.
Oh wow! That was a lunch and a half! Far too much food ( maybe not for some of the well proportioned gentlemen at other tables) one of which was quite an important person the waiter confided as we left - the boss of some important sporting organisation in Paris, but I am not sure.
The bourguignon was 16 euros each, my house wine 7.50 & a coke 3.50. Total bill: 41 euros.
Time to go back to the hotel, sort out some laundry and get packed. We pass a bakery and can't resist taking home a little tarte au citron and a millefeuille for later.
While we wait for the bus we notice a young man acting very strangely. He has lots of luggage and is wearing a hospital mask. He pretends to read a newspaper, then goes into the phone booth and picks up the directory but all the time he is looking around over the pages. We think he must have some terrible mental problem poor thing.
Back in the 7th we find our room only half cleaned and the bed still unmade so grab the laundry....can't arrive in Canada with hardly any clean clothes.
I have not been in this area since 2006 when I stayed at the Hotel Duquesne. My DH has never seen Rue Cler so off we go. It's not long before we spot the Lavarie and whilst that task is in progress I walk back to Cafe du Marche` and write some postcards.......yes, I do still post off a few to far flung friends around the world, though I think the practice is not so popular in recent years.
Armed with a few more souvenirs and the cards I go up to the very large post office on the corner of rue Cler and de La Motte-Picquet.
Its 6pm before we get back to the room which is now sorted.
We do a final packing of cases and don't go too far in search of dinner. Across the road from rue Champs de Mars is Le Bosquet, 46 Ave., Bosquet. It looks bright and welcoming and we are seated on the terrace.
I decide on the grilled seabass which comes whole with vegetables and DH has the roast chicken. With a 1664 & 2 Grimbergen the bill totals exactly 50euros.
When we get back to the hotel we do a final check on our flight time.......O holy cow, it's not an afternoon flight at 4pm - that's the return flight! We are due at CDG by check-in time 7.30am!
DH goes down to the desk and asks the gentleman's advice.
"Why have you waited so late!" he asks. "Well, we've made a blue about the flight time, so can we get a taxi?"
In minutes it's all fixed up with definite assurances the taxi will show. I am soooooo relieved!
Friday morning 30th July.
We reluctantly drag ourselves out of bed at 5.30am when the alarm goes off. Aren't cellphones marvellous with all their functions!
While waiting for the taxi in the cool morning air I watch the baker next door putting the baguettes into the oven. He has the sidedoor open and the fresh bread smells good.
Will be 3 weeks before we get to grips with another one of those marvellous long missiles!
Taxi arrives bang on time, and because it is early we reach terminal 3 in just 35min.
Now the long wait before they call our flight at 9.30am - it will be strange to leave Paris on this Friday and get to Canada the same day.
I don't feel sad to go. We have an apartment waiting for us when we get back and thats going to be a whole new adventure in Paris!
Photos:http://tinyurl.com/2v2hpzf
Our Last day in Paris before Canada:
Thursday 29th July.
Making good use of the tea and coffe making fascilities in our room we have the little cakes and biscuits as a breakfast
before starting out on this last day before catching our Airtransat flight to Calgary. At this point I am blissfully unaware of the possible predicament we are headed for.
Explorations in the 15th...
Jumping on a bus around the corner we then change to the number 42 bus headed to Charles Michels.
We were intending to have lunch in the area but long before that hour arrived I wantd to see a little of the 15th arr.
We got off the bus and headed to the large Monoprix. Maybe they would have the hair product I have so far unsuccessfully not been able to find.
I don't, but their fish counter looks good!
After looking around observing the locals at their daily lives, it's time for a cofee at Bistrot Linois before walking some more.
We make our way down Rue Lourmel towards 13 Rue Beatrix Dussane/ 16 Rue Lourmel, to the restaurant 'Le Volant'.
All on it's own in a quite street, this locals only hideaway is as French as you can get. The theme of the decor is a sporting one but far from a Sports Bar/Cafe found today.
Old photograhs of Georges JoJo Houel a past racing car driver, hug the walls. An attempt has been made to add a modern touch probably since Georges passed away in 2008. A few team jerseys, a flag or two and of all things, a vuvuzella! That really surprised me, but I guess the recent World Cup snuck in here in quite a big way.
We do not have a reservation but that's no problem and we are guided to a delightful spot in a corner.
The menu is quite extensive but I have one thing on my mind and it's Boeuf Bourguignon. This is the house speciality and I'm here to see if it can beat the one I had some years back at a teeny place in rue Francs Bourgeois quite near the Musee Carnavalet.
Well, it doesn't disappoint and is served with three accompaniments. One pot of mashed potatoe, one of rice, and one of a creamy sort of couscous/grits - I hope someone can jolt my memory as to what it could have been. It's OK, but I think an acquired taste. But what can a person say about French mash except it's divine!
So was the beef. Dark rich chunks just falling apart at the touch. In the sauce little button mushrooms - and on top of the portion, some crispy bacon.
Oh wow! That was a lunch and a half! Far too much food ( maybe not for some of the well proportioned gentlemen at other tables) one of which was quite an important person the waiter confided as we left - the boss of some important sporting organisation in Paris, but I am not sure.
The bourguignon was 16 euros each, my house wine 7.50 & a coke 3.50. Total bill: 41 euros.
Time to go back to the hotel, sort out some laundry and get packed. We pass a bakery and can't resist taking home a little tarte au citron and a millefeuille for later.
While we wait for the bus we notice a young man acting very strangely. He has lots of luggage and is wearing a hospital mask. He pretends to read a newspaper, then goes into the phone booth and picks up the directory but all the time he is looking around over the pages. We think he must have some terrible mental problem poor thing.
Back in the 7th we find our room only half cleaned and the bed still unmade so grab the laundry....can't arrive in Canada with hardly any clean clothes.
I have not been in this area since 2006 when I stayed at the Hotel Duquesne. My DH has never seen Rue Cler so off we go. It's not long before we spot the Lavarie and whilst that task is in progress I walk back to Cafe du Marche` and write some postcards.......yes, I do still post off a few to far flung friends around the world, though I think the practice is not so popular in recent years.
Armed with a few more souvenirs and the cards I go up to the very large post office on the corner of rue Cler and de La Motte-Picquet.
Its 6pm before we get back to the room which is now sorted.
We do a final packing of cases and don't go too far in search of dinner. Across the road from rue Champs de Mars is Le Bosquet, 46 Ave., Bosquet. It looks bright and welcoming and we are seated on the terrace.
I decide on the grilled seabass which comes whole with vegetables and DH has the roast chicken. With a 1664 & 2 Grimbergen the bill totals exactly 50euros.
When we get back to the hotel we do a final check on our flight time.......O holy cow, it's not an afternoon flight at 4pm - that's the return flight! We are due at CDG by check-in time 7.30am!
DH goes down to the desk and asks the gentleman's advice.
"Why have you waited so late!" he asks. "Well, we've made a blue about the flight time, so can we get a taxi?"
In minutes it's all fixed up with definite assurances the taxi will show. I am soooooo relieved!
Friday morning 30th July.
We reluctantly drag ourselves out of bed at 5.30am when the alarm goes off. Aren't cellphones marvellous with all their functions!
While waiting for the taxi in the cool morning air I watch the baker next door putting the baguettes into the oven. He has the sidedoor open and the fresh bread smells good.
Will be 3 weeks before we get to grips with another one of those marvellous long missiles!
Taxi arrives bang on time, and because it is early we reach terminal 3 in just 35min.
Now the long wait before they call our flight at 9.30am - it will be strange to leave Paris on this Friday and get to Canada the same day.
I don't feel sad to go. We have an apartment waiting for us when we get back and thats going to be a whole new adventure in Paris!
Photos:http://tinyurl.com/2v2hpzf
Sep 11th, 2010, 09:12 AM
#51
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Have thoroughly enjoyed your trip report tod! Makes me want to plan my next Paris trip RIGHT NOW!
I hope there will be more. And I hope you enjoyed your time in Canada...will there be a report on that as well?
You write very well indeed.
I hope there will be more. And I hope you enjoyed your time in Canada...will there be a report on that as well?
You write very well indeed.
Sep 11th, 2010, 09:29 AM
#52
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Hi raincitygirl,
Thank you for the kind words which are always appreciated -No trip report on Canada as it was expertly organised by my cousin in Alberta and virtually no planning on my part was necessary. Also, we were in motorhomes travelling through the beautiful National Parks which I am sure are very familiar to all.
There will however be more posts on Paris in a few days.
I think it will be best to carry on here and not start a whole new post.
Stay tuned!
Thank you for the kind words which are always appreciated -No trip report on Canada as it was expertly organised by my cousin in Alberta and virtually no planning on my part was necessary. Also, we were in motorhomes travelling through the beautiful National Parks which I am sure are very familiar to all.
There will however be more posts on Paris in a few days.
I think it will be best to carry on here and not start a whole new post.
Stay tuned!
Sep 11th, 2010, 08:26 PM
#54
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Count me as one following your report with enjoyment and interest - and very possibly with the intention of replicating many of your experiences. Everyone tells me I'm mad to hope to be in Paris for the end of le tour. Was it dreadfully hot and crowded?
I too like to get off the beaten track. But how to do that AND cover all the must-sees and must-dos and all the 'hidden gems' we learn about in our research, with limited time and budget, I have yet to discover.
I too like to get off the beaten track. But how to do that AND cover all the must-sees and must-dos and all the 'hidden gems' we learn about in our research, with limited time and budget, I have yet to discover.
Sep 11th, 2010, 11:20 PM
#55
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Yes, dreadfully hot but fantastic weather for the riders and onlookers! I can't imagine the same hype in wet dreary conditions.
eigasuki - it is a great compliment to have someone acrually take note and want to follow some of my wanderings! Thanks, you won't be disappointed.
My suggestion for wanting to discover 'hidden gems' is to make your own personal 'tour guide book'. I took a year to compile mine with photos and photo-copies from the pages of books on Paris that divulge that secret place. Include enough information to last at least 3 trips to Paris. This gives you an excellent base and wide choice when you get there. I also had a detailed map which is marked with restaurant suggestions - so if in that area I can go directly there.
AND - my book is light and very portable. (More info if you want.)
eigasuki - it is a great compliment to have someone acrually take note and want to follow some of my wanderings! Thanks, you won't be disappointed.
My suggestion for wanting to discover 'hidden gems' is to make your own personal 'tour guide book'. I took a year to compile mine with photos and photo-copies from the pages of books on Paris that divulge that secret place. Include enough information to last at least 3 trips to Paris. This gives you an excellent base and wide choice when you get there. I also had a detailed map which is marked with restaurant suggestions - so if in that area I can go directly there.
AND - my book is light and very portable. (More info if you want.)
Sep 12th, 2010, 04:08 AM
#56
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Hey K,
>I am so tired of reading about a lunch at the Café de Flore in Saint Germain, a trip to Ladurée, or breakfast at the Paul industrial fast food factory. You do the fringes of Paris that the others don't do, and that's fantastic.<
Oh dear, so young and yet so jaded.
Shall I tell you about the time my Lady Wife and i walked all of the way to the water treatment plant?
How abut getting lost at the truck terminal?
Then there was the tme we got off at the wrong spot and had to wait for 20 min in an industrial zone in the cold, rainy wind.
As I tell my wife, "I take you to places that the casual tourist never sees".
>I am so tired of reading about a lunch at the Café de Flore in Saint Germain, a trip to Ladurée, or breakfast at the Paul industrial fast food factory. You do the fringes of Paris that the others don't do, and that's fantastic.<
Oh dear, so young and yet so jaded.
Shall I tell you about the time my Lady Wife and i walked all of the way to the water treatment plant?
How abut getting lost at the truck terminal?
Then there was the tme we got off at the wrong spot and had to wait for 20 min in an industrial zone in the cold, rainy wind.
As I tell my wife, "I take you to places that the casual tourist never sees".
Sep 12th, 2010, 05:36 AM
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Hey ira,
K isn't young - he's about my age ( 65 in the shade but not ready for Shady Pines). Jaded? Mmmmmm, me thinks not.
Just ready to read something new I guess.
And yes, Do tell us about your wanderings in Paris I for one would be interested.
K isn't young - he's about my age ( 65 in the shade but not ready for Shady Pines). Jaded? Mmmmmm, me thinks not.
Just ready to read something new I guess.
And yes, Do tell us about your wanderings in Paris I for one would be interested.
Sep 12th, 2010, 01:06 PM
#58
Then there was the tme we got off at the wrong spot and had to wait for 20 min in an industrial zone in the cold, rainy wind.>>
Ira - I thought that it was only us who did those sorts of things. like the time we were looking for the road to Granada out of Malaga, and ended up round the back of an industrial estate nervously asking for directions from some locals who turned out to be irish.
Ira - I thought that it was only us who did those sorts of things. like the time we were looking for the road to Granada out of Malaga, and ended up round the back of an industrial estate nervously asking for directions from some locals who turned out to be irish.
Sep 13th, 2010, 01:03 AM
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PARIS RENDEVOUS PART II:
Three weeks later........
Friday 20th August
Returning from a hot Alberta Canada we take the RER from CDG to Gare de Nord. Joining the swiftly moving taxi queue it's not long before we are pulling up in from of our new home in Rue Petion, Bastille, 11 arr., just on 11am.
As first time apartment renters I have high expectations of living the life of a local Parisian. We are certainly in the right arrondisement for that!
Place Leon Blum with it's surrounding cafe`s, supermarkets and boulangerie's has a village feel to it and we could not be happier.
This is it: http://www.vrbo.com/103254
We are met by a charming young lady, Vanessa, and she quickly and expertly showed these two 'green horns' the ropes.
There is a small bottle of champagne in the fridge plus water. Already for our use are things like sugar, tea, detergent for the washing machine etc.
Within the hour we are showered and changed and on the lookout for lunch.
There are a number of choices but we settle on Au Cadran which has nice tables on the terrace. We order the lunch special of roast beef @ 11.90 - with drinks, bill = 35.30E. Everything was delicious.
On the way back to the apartment we call in at the Franprix for a few groceries and head home. It has been many years since we last flew West to East and we feel a bit jet-lagged.
I am also not feeling 100% with a tickle in my chest which causes me to cough.
Deciding to just chill in the apartment we sleep until the next morning! This is all so strange - I have never ever slept during the day in Paris!
Photos:http://tinyurl.com/35gzd6h
Saturday 21st August
The morning is bright and sunny as we fling open the wooden shutters leading out into the garden. There is no other sound except birds twittering in the trees and shrubs.
What better place to have breakfast! It's heavenly.
Today we are off to The Palace of Versailles! Having bought tickets in advance for the Grandes Eaux Nocturnes we set off for the day.
I have been to the palace before in 2000 with my mum but this was a first time for DH, so we had planned on spending the entire day there.
A good idea it seemed at the time, but in hindsight it was a bit too ambitious.
By the time we got there the whole world and his brother had also arrived. Joining the throngs we pushed our way through the various apartments. It was terribly hot and I had to find an open window at each room to get some air.
Eventually DH turned to me and said he wasn't enjoying this at all. After the Hall of Mirrors we made for the gardens.
We did the usual wander around and found ourselves at one of the lovely little cafe`s hidden amongst the tall tree hedges. This was perfect for lunch and we thoroughly enjoyed sitting in the shade for over an hour.
I ordered the duck confit and DH decided on spaghetti bolognaise. The waitering was slow which gave us time to have another cold beer and boy did we need it!
During the afternoon we found ourselves down at the Grand Canal. I was wanting to take the little train ride to the Petit and Grand Trianon's but tickets had to be obtained up at the palace and we weren't going to walk all that way back.
Instead we found a shady bench opposite the icecream shop and
people watched. Dozens rode past on bikes negotiating the line in front of the icecream counter. Hygiene wasn't the vendors strongpoint here as icream cones and money changed hands - all with the same hand.
With hours still to go until the evening spectacle we ended up lying on the grass under the trees and I fell fast asleep.
I felt much better after my little siesta and we went and had tea at the nearby restaurant. It was the same one mum and I had had lunch at when we came on the Parisvision tour, so lovely memories came flooding back of that wonderful day.
We then heard the announcements to leave the gardens. It was 5.30pm and the organisers wanted to prepare for the evening show.
Well we found ourselves booted right out of the grounds surrounding the palace as well. Where on earth were we supposed to go?!
I'll tell you. We ended up sitting in the courtyard near the entrance for 3 hours. There are no benches so everyone sat wherever they could find a ledge or steps.
Fortunately the coffee shop was open and we bought some ham & cheese baguettes and drinks before being allowed back into the gardens.
The setting sun bathed the palace in a glorious gold which reflected on the Grand Canal.
As dusk decended we found seats on the steps facing the canal and ate our supper. The crowd grew larger and the 'officials' had a hard time keeping people from clamboring onto vantage points behind the cordonned off areas.
At last the music started and thousands of bubbles were released into the crowd. The children had a wonderful time running around trying to catch them!
The fountains were beautifully lit up but you were required to walk from garden to garden in order to see them. There was no way I could get up the energy to go through them all again. We stuck to our position on the steps and watched the flames fly in sequence up and down the strip of lawn. This specatcle was greatly apprecaited by the crowd and drew much applause!
Not waiting until the very end we made our way back to the metro and home. It had been a VERY long day.
Photos:http://tinyurl.com/39xnmh4
Sunday 22nd August
Time to experience going to the market and actually BUYING produce! In the past we have always just meandered through, either picking up a packet of fresh cherries or a hot griddled pancake to eat on the hoof. This time however, I am a little 'French housewife' going to do her daily shop!
Vanessa had told us to take the number 61 Bus and get off for Marche Aligre. This market is just over the border in the 12th Arr. but the easiest transport-wise than Richard Lenoir market.
Marche Aligre extends along two streets, spreading from the central Place d'Aligre. It is the only market in Paris that combines a covered market, an open-air market, and a flea market.
Along this crowded stretch there are about 40 stands selling fruit & vegetables, but before that, we go inside the covered market and seek out the fish counter where I am so totally overwhelmed with choice I dither somewhat. Firstly I don't recognise any of the fish except a few sardines, trout, and the crustaceans. Finally I go for what looks most familiar to me and buy two fillets de Rascasse ( not sure if that is right name) at 18.80 a kg.
Then it's off to the stall opposite where I see 4 nice lamb chops. My next delightful purchase is the one that takes the longest - It's at the Fromager!
Proudly hauling out my list of cheeses I have researched, I request a small piece of the following:
Le Brin - a mild oozy and very creamy cheese.
Ossau d'Iraty - AOC Ossau-Iraty cheese:
A cheese made from sheep milk, strictly respectful of the AOC specifications. It's made from raw milk which explains the finess of its taste that is been developped during its maturing. This cheese is being refined in cellars for almost 4 months and weights between 2 and 3 kgs.
http://tinyurl.com/2drhtpt
Neufchatel - with it's distinctive heart shape. http://tinyurl.com/33f2zqb
Lastly, 3 different little goats cheese for putting under the grill.
Time to step outside and heed the shouts of the stallholders.
I get two 'picked today' lettuces, a bunch of gorgeous radishes, four potatoes (which when cooked were yellow, nutty and scumptious), a few blood red vine-ripened tomatoes still attached to the stalk, a red onion and some garlic.
Last port-of-call as we pass the bakery 'Le Pain au Naturel'
is the very necessary baguette.
It's back on the bus with our wonderful purchases!
As we pass Nicolas we find the wine store open! Great.
I choose three small bottles of different wines and also a jar of green olives.
More soon.
Three weeks later........
Friday 20th August
Returning from a hot Alberta Canada we take the RER from CDG to Gare de Nord. Joining the swiftly moving taxi queue it's not long before we are pulling up in from of our new home in Rue Petion, Bastille, 11 arr., just on 11am.
As first time apartment renters I have high expectations of living the life of a local Parisian. We are certainly in the right arrondisement for that!
Place Leon Blum with it's surrounding cafe`s, supermarkets and boulangerie's has a village feel to it and we could not be happier.
This is it: http://www.vrbo.com/103254
We are met by a charming young lady, Vanessa, and she quickly and expertly showed these two 'green horns' the ropes.
There is a small bottle of champagne in the fridge plus water. Already for our use are things like sugar, tea, detergent for the washing machine etc.
Within the hour we are showered and changed and on the lookout for lunch.
There are a number of choices but we settle on Au Cadran which has nice tables on the terrace. We order the lunch special of roast beef @ 11.90 - with drinks, bill = 35.30E. Everything was delicious.
On the way back to the apartment we call in at the Franprix for a few groceries and head home. It has been many years since we last flew West to East and we feel a bit jet-lagged.
I am also not feeling 100% with a tickle in my chest which causes me to cough.
Deciding to just chill in the apartment we sleep until the next morning! This is all so strange - I have never ever slept during the day in Paris!
Photos:http://tinyurl.com/35gzd6h
Saturday 21st August
The morning is bright and sunny as we fling open the wooden shutters leading out into the garden. There is no other sound except birds twittering in the trees and shrubs.
What better place to have breakfast! It's heavenly.
Today we are off to The Palace of Versailles! Having bought tickets in advance for the Grandes Eaux Nocturnes we set off for the day.
I have been to the palace before in 2000 with my mum but this was a first time for DH, so we had planned on spending the entire day there.
A good idea it seemed at the time, but in hindsight it was a bit too ambitious.
By the time we got there the whole world and his brother had also arrived. Joining the throngs we pushed our way through the various apartments. It was terribly hot and I had to find an open window at each room to get some air.
Eventually DH turned to me and said he wasn't enjoying this at all. After the Hall of Mirrors we made for the gardens.
We did the usual wander around and found ourselves at one of the lovely little cafe`s hidden amongst the tall tree hedges. This was perfect for lunch and we thoroughly enjoyed sitting in the shade for over an hour.
I ordered the duck confit and DH decided on spaghetti bolognaise. The waitering was slow which gave us time to have another cold beer and boy did we need it!
During the afternoon we found ourselves down at the Grand Canal. I was wanting to take the little train ride to the Petit and Grand Trianon's but tickets had to be obtained up at the palace and we weren't going to walk all that way back.
Instead we found a shady bench opposite the icecream shop and
people watched. Dozens rode past on bikes negotiating the line in front of the icecream counter. Hygiene wasn't the vendors strongpoint here as icream cones and money changed hands - all with the same hand.
With hours still to go until the evening spectacle we ended up lying on the grass under the trees and I fell fast asleep.
I felt much better after my little siesta and we went and had tea at the nearby restaurant. It was the same one mum and I had had lunch at when we came on the Parisvision tour, so lovely memories came flooding back of that wonderful day.
We then heard the announcements to leave the gardens. It was 5.30pm and the organisers wanted to prepare for the evening show.
Well we found ourselves booted right out of the grounds surrounding the palace as well. Where on earth were we supposed to go?!
I'll tell you. We ended up sitting in the courtyard near the entrance for 3 hours. There are no benches so everyone sat wherever they could find a ledge or steps.
Fortunately the coffee shop was open and we bought some ham & cheese baguettes and drinks before being allowed back into the gardens.
The setting sun bathed the palace in a glorious gold which reflected on the Grand Canal.
As dusk decended we found seats on the steps facing the canal and ate our supper. The crowd grew larger and the 'officials' had a hard time keeping people from clamboring onto vantage points behind the cordonned off areas.
At last the music started and thousands of bubbles were released into the crowd. The children had a wonderful time running around trying to catch them!
The fountains were beautifully lit up but you were required to walk from garden to garden in order to see them. There was no way I could get up the energy to go through them all again. We stuck to our position on the steps and watched the flames fly in sequence up and down the strip of lawn. This specatcle was greatly apprecaited by the crowd and drew much applause!
Not waiting until the very end we made our way back to the metro and home. It had been a VERY long day.
Photos:http://tinyurl.com/39xnmh4
Sunday 22nd August
Time to experience going to the market and actually BUYING produce! In the past we have always just meandered through, either picking up a packet of fresh cherries or a hot griddled pancake to eat on the hoof. This time however, I am a little 'French housewife' going to do her daily shop!
Vanessa had told us to take the number 61 Bus and get off for Marche Aligre. This market is just over the border in the 12th Arr. but the easiest transport-wise than Richard Lenoir market.
Marche Aligre extends along two streets, spreading from the central Place d'Aligre. It is the only market in Paris that combines a covered market, an open-air market, and a flea market.
Along this crowded stretch there are about 40 stands selling fruit & vegetables, but before that, we go inside the covered market and seek out the fish counter where I am so totally overwhelmed with choice I dither somewhat. Firstly I don't recognise any of the fish except a few sardines, trout, and the crustaceans. Finally I go for what looks most familiar to me and buy two fillets de Rascasse ( not sure if that is right name) at 18.80 a kg.
Then it's off to the stall opposite where I see 4 nice lamb chops. My next delightful purchase is the one that takes the longest - It's at the Fromager!
Proudly hauling out my list of cheeses I have researched, I request a small piece of the following:
Le Brin - a mild oozy and very creamy cheese.
Ossau d'Iraty - AOC Ossau-Iraty cheese:
A cheese made from sheep milk, strictly respectful of the AOC specifications. It's made from raw milk which explains the finess of its taste that is been developped during its maturing. This cheese is being refined in cellars for almost 4 months and weights between 2 and 3 kgs.
http://tinyurl.com/2drhtpt
Neufchatel - with it's distinctive heart shape. http://tinyurl.com/33f2zqb
Lastly, 3 different little goats cheese for putting under the grill.
Time to step outside and heed the shouts of the stallholders.
I get two 'picked today' lettuces, a bunch of gorgeous radishes, four potatoes (which when cooked were yellow, nutty and scumptious), a few blood red vine-ripened tomatoes still attached to the stalk, a red onion and some garlic.
Last port-of-call as we pass the bakery 'Le Pain au Naturel'
is the very necessary baguette.
It's back on the bus with our wonderful purchases!
As we pass Nicolas we find the wine store open! Great.
I choose three small bottles of different wines and also a jar of green olives.
More soon.
