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-   -   Paris Off the Tourist Path (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/paris-off-the-tourist-path-979728/)

PalenQ May 30th, 2013 06:59 AM

Paris Off the Tourist Path
 
I've been going to Paris about annually or more since 1969! And after seeing all the major blockbuster sites I now find myself drawn to lesser sites off the usual tourist radar - so in this collective trip report of my many sojourns in Paris on this thread I will tell about some of my off-the-path Parisian promenades.

Anyone who has visited these places should feel free to opine about their experiences!

PARC DE SAINT-CLOUD

One of my all-time delightful surprises was trekking up to the Parc de Saint-Cloud, located on a hill on Paris' far-western periphery that yields a marvelous view all over a Paris laid out far below like a relief map (even though Paris' obnoxious smog at times can obscure fine details!).

You can get to the park various ways but the easiest is to take the Tram from the vicinity of the Eiffel Toiwer right to the lower part of the park - then hoof it uphill to take in the marvelous views - bring a picnic!

The park has an intriguing history and several old monuments and fountains and a largely ruined chateau. And it is a huge park extending far to the west.


https://www.google.com/search?q=parc...=1600&bih=1075

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parc_de_Saint-Cloud

And there are some interesting places near the park such as the Sevres Ceramics Museum, housed in the former Sevres National Ceramics factory buildings with one of the world's most important ceramic collections.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/S%C3%A8...c%C3%A9ramique

http://www.amisdesevres.com/en/sevre...ique/le-musee/

The Ceramics museum is located really close the tram stop if just wanting to visit that.

anyway for a nice day out check out the Parc de Saint-cloud and Sevres Ceramics museum!

NEXT SURESNES -A natural component to the St Cloud Park!

lrock5 May 30th, 2013 07:06 AM

Thank you so much. We are planning another trip in February and are always looking for something new to see.

FrenchMystiqueTours May 30th, 2013 07:45 AM

A wonderful park that attracts so few visitors. Most people don't know there is paved road/trail you can take through the park to Versailles if you have a bike. From the park probably not more than a 40 minute bike ride.

Blaise22 May 30th, 2013 09:26 AM

PalenQ, I am excited to see what all you post in this thread. I've been to Paris three times and I've never been to Parc de Saint-Cloud, but after looking at the photos you posted, I will definitely go next time. I see on the map it's near two train stations. From which one is it most accessible?

kerouac May 30th, 2013 09:38 AM

The Parc de Saint Cloud and the ceramics museum are indeed worth a visit. All you have to do to go there is take the metro and walk across the bridge, or else take the T2 tramway line from Porte de Versailles or La Défense.

PalenQ May 31st, 2013 06:58 AM

. I see on the map it's near two train stations. From which one is it most accessible?>

Like kerouac says the best way is via the RATP - either metro or tram - this takes you to the lower part of the park - I took a train from Saint-Lazare via La Defense to Suresnes and walked about a few kilometers thru this sedate town to the park, crossing an obnoxiously loud autoroute to access it.

SURESNES
One reason I wanted to go first to Suresnes is because years ago I remember taking the train here and having a picnic on a bench near the station that provided a vast overview of Paris all laid out down below, similar to the one St Cloud Park yields - then I walked from the upper park, where most of the main attractions are, down to the lower level and the Sevres Ceramics Museum and tram back to central Paris.

So if you want to see a pleasant rather upscale suburban town of Suresnes - nice cafes, etc. and then you can walk to and down thru the park.

Magster2005 May 31st, 2013 11:08 AM

This is great -- can't wait to see what else you have for us!

PalenQ Jun 1st, 2013 08:39 AM

- can't wait to see what else you have for us!>

thanks for the nice comment - things on my list are Conflans-St-Honore, Joinville-le-Pont; the Dog and Cat cemetery at Asnieres; La Villette and the Canal St-Martin; the Statue of Liberty model; The Cite University; China Town; Arts-et-Metiers museum and Park des Buttes-Chaumont.

FrenchMystiqueTours Jun 1st, 2013 10:02 AM

I've biked through Suresnes on my way to Rueil-Malmaison and it is a lovely suburb, although there's a killer of a hill to climb up the banks of the Seine leaving Paris. Joinville is adjacent to my town and I bike on the banks of the Marne here all the time. Another beautiful off the beaten path visit. Drop me a line when you come out here and I'll take you on a bike ride Pal. ;)

kerouac Jun 1st, 2013 11:50 AM

I believe you mean Conflans-Sainte Honorine rather than Conflans St-Honoré if you are talking about the boat capital of Ile de France.

As for the pet cemetery in Asnières, you must absolutely go there. I made this report about it: http://tinyurl.com/asnieres

PalenQ Jun 2nd, 2013 01:09 PM

kerouac - thanks for the correction in Conflans-Sainte-Honore - yes I mean the barge and boat capital of France if not Europe. Thanks for the great reort on the Dog and Cat Cemetery! The tombstone of the most famous dog in the world - rin Tin tin - amazing story about how he got here via WW1 and Hollywood!

FMTours - I may take you up on that!

kerouac Jun 2nd, 2013 01:17 PM

I have actually just started a report about Conflans-Sainte-Honorine. I'll post a link when the report is complete.

frenchfrenchie Jun 2nd, 2013 02:20 PM

Oh, PalenQ! You might enjoy reading this. I just discovered it today browsing on the web.

http://www.gadling.com/2013/04/24/ap...the-bagatelle/

spaarne Jun 2nd, 2013 03:28 PM

Parc-de-Saint-Cloud does have a magnificent view over Paris. I've mentioned it here a couple of times. Since it is WSW of the center of the city an afternoon visit provides the best light. The haze can be dense so try to go on a Sunday or after a good windy rain. I went right up to the fence on the edge of the cliff and got some very good panorama photos of Paris.

I took the SNCF from Gare St. Lazare all the way to gare Saint Cloud. From there it is an easy stroll to the park. The train schedule is the one to Versailles on the URL http://tinyurl.com/lpmyhes. I didn't know about Suresnes though my train made a stop there. I'll have a look next time. Thanks for the posting Pal.

taconictraveler Jun 2nd, 2013 04:18 PM

I guess there is always something new and different in Paris. You seem to be finding places that all Paris lovers hope to get to some day.

Thanks for your curiosity. And thanks, Kerouac, for the most unusual cemetery in the world, as far as I know!!

giro Jun 2nd, 2013 08:01 PM

Just back from a 2 month stay in the 10th near gare du nord. I walked the canal st Martin area often between March and May and found it fascinating how it changed with the seasons. Visited parc Buttes -Chaumont on a warm Sunday and, unlike central park in NY saw mostly Parisians and not tourists. I followed up on some threads by Kerouac and visited various passages throughout the city and spent time exploring the Indian neighborhood on F. St. Denis.
Great opportunity to explore this wonderful city with virtually no prescribed time table.. Looking forward to reading about the places I missed!

celestee Jun 2nd, 2013 09:32 PM

Love this thread and looking forward to exploring Paris as Parisians do.

kerouac Jun 2nd, 2013 10:35 PM

Okay, here is my little report about Conflans-Sainte-Honorine: http://tinyurl.com/conflans

PalenQ Jun 3rd, 2013 11:40 AM

Thanks everyone for the great inputs! And kerouac's posting proves a 1,000 pictures can be better than any words - about Conflans-Ste-Honorine in this case - kind of a gritty town as befitting a port town it seems but very different from most French towns - and the two-level RER/SNCf train station - I love that.

Conflans is just a short RER train ride from Paris but in other ways so so far from it.

Thanks kerouac for posting!

Blaise22 Jun 3rd, 2013 02:10 PM

I googled pictures of all of the places you listed and I was particularly impressed with Joinville-le-Pont and Parc des Buttes-Chaumont. I am definitely adding both of those on my list of places to see on my next trip. I love Parc Monceau as well, which I think would fit on this thread. I ordered a ham, egg and cheese crepe there a few years ago that was just amazing. The ham was superb and the cheese tasted like a good Comte or Cantal. This last year I had another ham, egg and cheese crepe at the place across the street from the Eiffel Tower and it was HORRIBLE. They used deli ham and bagged shredded cheese like we get at a supermarket in the US. My wife got one with strawberries and nutella and I still regret I didn't do the same!


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