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-   -   Paris - Nov 3 - Dec 14 (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/paris-nov-3-dec-14-a-812266/)

elsiejune Nov 13th, 2009 04:15 AM

Yes, Joan, that's the way to cook, Paris-style! So easy to do at that end of rue St. Dominique. I see you took a photo of the butcher shop downstairs. This is the place I told you about last year. In addition to the usual roasted chicken, they have some delicious prepared foods. If you like cauliflower, their souffle is not to be missed. Enjoy, EJ

TDudette Nov 13th, 2009 04:58 AM

Still with you spirit! The plum tart looked pretty special.

FYI, Had lunch in local hospital cafeteria (Glen Burnie Md) and believe it or not, they served a roast chicken that tasted similar to those in Paris. DH had soup and the whole thing was less than $10. There is hope yet!

gracejoan3 Nov 13th, 2009 05:06 AM

elsiejune,

The butcher shop always has a long line of people outside..good sign!

What great looking stuff at Davoli every day! Can't buy any for a few days at least.

Sue, from Green Bay area, is coming by tonight and we have 8:30 reservations for Violon. She has never been to a Constant restaurant. She also wants to see a PP apt. and thinks that is what she wants to do next trip.

Tomorrow Florent and Michel will be coming by and we will then go out to dinner, a place of their choice.

Sunday Sue will be joining me at l'Obe (Crillon) and then plan on walking over to Bar Vendome in the Ritz.

Davoli is closed on Mon. Will have to look at the butcher shop downstairs and see what kind of goodies there. Will get to Davoli, too.

Will take pics tonight for all and for Sue to take home to show family and friends.

The Cabernet is comfortable. Practically same view as Fleurie. Fleurie is in bldg. next door with entrance on Rapp. I really do like the Fleurie..so spacious!

I think I may be substituting the Montrachet for the St. Julien. I think the Montrachet is right next door to where I am now. However it works out, is fine with me. Fun to see so many of them.

a bientot...

Joan

GraceCO Nov 13th, 2009 07:14 AM

Hi Joan,

Yes, I have our luncheon on my calendar -- I wouldn't miss it! Thank you for making the reservations. Looking forward to it.

That's a great idea about Nathan. I'll be talking to Lauren today and will mention it. She arrives on Thursday evening.

I just made my reservations by email with inter-shuttle. They confirmed almost immediately. (For anyone considering transportation in Paris, I used this service, at Joan's recommendation, last August and they were great--on time, roomy Mercedes, friendly & competent driver, no hassles.)

I'll email you, Joan...

Have a wonderful evening.

a bientot
Grace

gracejoan3 Nov 13th, 2009 07:55 AM

Hi Grace,

I will make our l'Obe reservations when there on Sunday.

If Lauren needs Nathan's email address I have it. He might introduce them to places we wouldn't know about. If Lauren is planning to return to Paris it won't hurt to know someone here. I know Nathan plans to stay here. I should go to Les Cocottes tomorrow and see if he shows up...

I used inter-shuttle and he was right there. I am always so grateful, after that not fun trip! Sue was pleased, too. Her flight was half empty. I thought she would go via Chicago. She took a flight from Appleton to Detroit and to CDG. She had a long layover in Detroit. My inter-shuttles have usually been large vans.

a bientot...

Joan

LikToTravel Nov 13th, 2009 08:10 AM

Joan, love the photos of the food/butcher and speciality stores. I am looking forward to seeing for myself come Christmas. In relation to the Cotes du Rhone apartment are the stores close?

Joan & Grace, I also have confirmation with inter-shuttle for roundtrip service. However, I have checked the website and see nothing in relation to tipping. Is it appropriate and if so what is customary?

Thank you and continue having a wonderful time.

gracejoan3 Nov 13th, 2009 08:26 AM

liktotravel,

The Cotes du Rhone apt. is on the corner of Bourdonnais and Monttessuy. Your neighbor across the street is Princess Caroline of Monaco. The Royal Apartments have the Monaco crest on each balcony section. Always light on, think she is rarely there. Your corner window has the ET view. Monttessuy has Au Bon Accueil restaurant..very good. You have an excellent boulangerie right on corner across from you..they serve meals, too. You are two blocks from St. Dominique, one block from parc Champs du Mars and ET, a couple blocks to the Seine. All 4 Christian Constant restaurants are a block away from Bourdonnais on St. Dominique. Buses to anyplace in Paris on the corner of St. Dom/Bourdonnais. The 42 bus right outside for you..will take you across Seine, Montaigne with high fashion shops, Rond Point and up to Pl de la Concorde for Tuileries, Rivoli and then on to Madeleine, Opera and Galeries Lafayette area.

When here to see the Christmas decorations, walk across the Seine at Pont Alma(Princess Diana) and up Montaigne and to Rond Point..take your camera. lots to see..and lots of people doing the same thing!!

Pull up a Mappy and take a look..add restaurants etc. to it...do google earth and take a tour of the area....

Pictures from dinner later....

a bientot...
Joan

JeanneB Nov 13th, 2009 12:00 PM

Joan:

Could you please post a list of all the apartments you've now stayed in?

Also, I'm sure you've explained in the past what your relationship is with PP and how it developed. But I'd love to hear about it.

Thanks,
Jeanne

gracejoan3 Nov 13th, 2009 01:08 PM

Jeanne, Try to think of all the pp's that I have stayed in or been in..I will include the ones that I will have been in by end of this trip. Some apts. I have stayed in more than once previously.

My relationship is a very good one, as I most certainly have a fondness for their apartments. After staying in just one of them, I decided that was the way to go, for me. It only took one stay..not something over a period of time. I'm sure they consider me a good guest, too. Not much more to be said about that. Now, you asked about apartments: Grenache, Kir, Meursault, Cotes du Rhone, Pomerol, Richebourg, Cabernet, Champagne, Montrachet, Chardonnay, Chateau LaTour,Chateauneuf and probably some that I have missed. I have seen the Pastis and I will be seeing the Cotes de Provence, for some others.

I will post pics in the morning re an excellent dinner at Violon d'Ingres this evening.

a bientot...

Joan

CarrboroGirl Nov 13th, 2009 01:08 PM

Thanks, all, for the suggestions regarding accommodations in the 7th! Hoping to get something nailed down soon. Appreciate very much the input!

Audrey

gracejoan3 Nov 13th, 2009 01:14 PM

Jeanne,

I did forget the Fleurie and I have a great fondness for the Fleurie, too. Must have forgotten others...

Joan

sueb08 Nov 13th, 2009 01:20 PM

Joan
I returned to my hotel safely. I forgot that boissy is closed to traffic this week,so it was good to get off at the Crillon.
Thank you for the great company tonite at the Violin,,,The food was DELICIOUS!!
I better have a late breakfast as it will be awhile before i am hungry.

more later












t

elsiejune Nov 13th, 2009 01:27 PM

Joan,
Does Fleurie have a balcony? I think this might be the main difference (for me) between it and Cabernet. Sounds like you'll be having some delicious meals in the days ahead - Bon apetit! EJ ((#))

RobynFrance Nov 13th, 2009 04:07 PM

Hi Joan--Al and I are enjoying your trip. I loved the picture of your breakfast the other day so much that I did a little watercolor and it is dedicated to u--Joan's Paris breakfast--hope you enjoy it,maybe not as much as the real thing.
http://picasaweb.google.com/RobynFra...56693568743554

cristeen Nov 13th, 2009 04:46 PM

RobynFrance- What a wonderful watercolor! Very beautiful work.

RobertaL Nov 13th, 2009 05:23 PM

wow, RobynFrance, that is fantastique!!! Joan is going to love it...

RobynFrance Nov 13th, 2009 05:31 PM

Merci Roberta and Cristeen--so glad you like it.

gracejoan3 Nov 13th, 2009 09:34 PM

Robyn,

How absolutely wonderful!! Thank you so much! I am overwhelmed!

Fondly,

Joan

gracejoan3 Nov 13th, 2009 10:20 PM

I just took care of the photos from last night at Violon.

Sue called when she was leaving her hotel. I went downstairs and waited outside for her..not long before her taxi pulled up. We came up to my apartment. I showed her around and she did enjoy my ET view!

We then walked the short way down to Violon. I showed her both Cafe Constant and Les Cocottes as we passed by them. Alexandre greeted us and seated us. We had a glass of champagne to start things off! We did have an excellent meal. Violon is really a great bargain, for the price. It was busy.

Something I will note, from times past. Yes, they have changed from the very formal atmosphere to a more relaxed one. The casualness of some guests is what I find disturbing..for instance, a fellow in rather worn faded jeans with a short sleeve faded gold tee. It was the tee, not the jeans that really looked bad! Do the bargain prices go along with over casual dress? To me, I think going to a nice restaurant also includes dressing nicely. Maybe that is not what the world wants?

It is wet out. I was thinking of the market today..but not in the rain. It may clear later. Will play it by ear.

Florent and Michel will be over later and we will be going to dinner together..an area place of their choosing.

ElsieJune,

Fleurie does not have a balcony. The two apartments are totally different from one another, though. Fleurie is very spacious. The kitchen does not have the granite/marble countertops. If visiting when weather is for balcony sitting it might make the difference.

Here are the pictures from last night:

http://s271.photobucket.com/albums/j...t=abf39643.pbw

a bientot...

Joan

LikToTravel Nov 13th, 2009 10:22 PM

Joan,

Thank you for the wealth of information.

From here on in, I will continue to look to you for the weather reports. Coming from Los Angeles anything under 60 is COLD for us. Two years ago we were there in March and it was uncharacteristically cold (the low 30's) and we FROZE no matter how much we layered with heavy clothes. Honestly, I think it was more psychological than anything else, but as you can see, it did not scare us away.

Therefore, off to the mall tomorrow to acquire more warm clothing.

gracejoan3 Nov 13th, 2009 11:00 PM

liktotravel,
You are going to find it COLD! A good wool sweater is great. Also you want a good scarf to wrap around your neck and can pull over your face..gloves, too!

The wind can really make the difference to how it feels.

Enjoy..

Joan

sueb08 Nov 13th, 2009 11:37 PM

joan

the pictures from last nite are great. you really are good at gettng hem out.
i just had a breakfast.I am contemplating going out in the rain. I need to wear aff a few calories.
I am ready to move to hotel buci on the left.
more later

gracejoan3 Nov 14th, 2009 12:58 AM

liktotravel,

I think you should go to a store that sells ski clothing and purchase some silk thermal underwear..both tops and bottoms. They take up no space and you would be surprised at the difference they can make. I brought my silk bottms with me for this trip. I may be glad to have them.

a bientot...

Joan

tod Nov 14th, 2009 01:35 AM

Hi Joan,
For me, those were definitely the best 'foodie' photos yet! The dishes looked delightful - Please, may I ask how much the meal totted up to including wine? (For budgeting purposes) It all looked very expensive I must say!
And, was it a three or two course dinner?
My husband wants to see you all smiling at the camera!?How about it at the GTG?

gracejoan3 Nov 14th, 2009 02:01 AM

tod,

Violon has a 49 euro menu...starter, plat and dessert. Hard to beat for the quality received. We had a glass of champagne,a glass of wine and a bottle of water. 78 euros each.

I will do my best for our GTG. We will gather first at my apartment and then on to Petite Sud Ouest. I will get all to say cheese!!

** For those who will be in Paris for Christmas**

I just talked with the Ritz Bar Vendome. They will be serving both Xmas Eve and Xmas Day. I do enjoy the Bar Vendome. A cozy atmosphere. I would go there if I were here! They are to send me the menu..it should have prices for you..I will also be there tomorrow and can find out more if necessary. I will post the information when I receive it!!

a bientot...

Joan

gracejoan3 Nov 14th, 2009 04:02 AM

** Here is the Ritz Bar Vendome for Christmas Eve **

Le Ritz Paris
vous souhaite un Joyeux Noël
The Ritz Paris wishes you
a Happy Christmas
Menu
Foie gras aux saveurs de Noël cuit dans un vin chaud,
marmelade d’agrumes
Christmas foie gras prepared in a mulled wine,
citrus fruit marmalade
55 €

Dinde contisée à la truffe
légumes d’hiver cuits au jus, cuisse à la feuille d’or
Turkey with truffle,
winter vegetables stew and gold leaves
78 €

Poire pochée à la cardamome,
crème légère au chocolat et glace caramel
Poached pears with cardamom,
chocolat lightly mousse and toffee ice cream
23 €
Prix nets – Net prices
Décembre 2009

RESERVATIONS STRONGLY RECOMMENDED

Joan

gracejoan3 Nov 14th, 2009 04:20 AM

The weather..it is breezy out, but the overnight/early morning rain ended. It is decent temperature wise,which is good, with the wind. It seems to be clouding up, so maybe more rain coming.

I went over to Les Cocottes for lunch..here are the pictures:

http://s271.photobucket.com/albums/j...t=92104bcb.pbw

TDudette Nov 14th, 2009 05:25 AM

How does one say "too rich for my blood" in French! The menu looks scrumptious though!

ParisJo Nov 14th, 2009 06:00 PM

Hi Joan,

I've been remiss in not posting yet, but just wanted to say I am really enjoying this thread. Thank you for taking the time to share your days and your meals with us, it's so generous of you to take the time out of your trip to feed our Paris obsessions! So many of us are living vicariously through you with this thread, you should probably be charging us a commission, LOL.

Looking forward to the many instatllments to come.

Jo (who just booked her apartment and flight for next September!! Daniel Rose better be up and running in his new place in the 1st by then, lol!)

ParisJo Nov 14th, 2009 06:01 PM

of course, I meant installments. Have to stop typing so fast and checking my posts before hitting enter!

Jo

europeannovice Nov 14th, 2009 08:00 PM

Gracejoan3,

Enjoying your trip report. We will be traveling for the first time to Paris arriving on a Friday in June and I posted another thread asking about itineraries for the first day of arrival. We will be staying near the Louvre area. Do you recommend a walking tour of the Marais, or is it advisable to go to the Louvre or Orsay on that first day? Most people suggest not going to a major museum due to jet lag. We arrive in the morning and not sure how long it will take to clear customs, get luggage and arrive at hotel nor how tired we will feel. I welcome more suggestions and recommendations. Thanks.

gracejoan3 Nov 14th, 2009 10:21 PM

What fun we had last night!

Florent and Michel rang my buzzer about 8:15. I showed them around the apartment. We visited over a glass of wine for some time and then were off.

They had done nothing about reservations. We looked in to Le Florimond and it looked like there might be a spot for us..since I had not been to the Auberge Bressane, we decided to check it out. They were full. We walked back to Le Florimond and it looked like someone had taken the spot. We went inside and Laurent said he just couldn't accommodate us. I said Pasco was just around the corner. It seemed that someone had cancelled and we were lucky and got 'their' nice round table near the window. This place has generous spacing with their tables...not these jammed right up to the next table! Florent pointed out, that you pay for that. He also noted that they were all locals and he noted "7th" locals!

Florent and Michel have been acquiring finer tastes in wine and are now enjoying some of the 'better' bordeaux wines..also more expensive! They ordered a lovely bottle of wine and we then began looking at the menu. They did not prefer the set menu...not enough choices for them...we selected from the a la carte menu..Florent and I had the same thoughts and Michel had some great looking items. What appears to be a soup, was foie gras, chinese mushrooms and various items..excellent...our main does not look that great in the picture, but was really special...we also had the same dessert..Michel had some ice cream and a big chocolate something! We were the last to leave. We walked down to where Florent's car was parked, near his Flirt The and the dropped me off at my apt. I arrived home a few strokes before midnight! They are two very charming people. We had a great evening. They will be joining me at Violon before I leave. They have not dined there.

Here are the photos:
http://s271.photobucket.com/albums/j...t=0685cd52.pbw

gracejoan3 Nov 14th, 2009 10:37 PM

ParisJo,

Now you can begin the rest of your trip planning. Have fun with it.

europeannovice,

Everyone seems to handle arrival day differently. It is just whatever seems to work best for each.

Fo me, I make it an easy day. I arrive in the morning after an overnight flight, delighted to see my driver with my name on the sign. Arrive at my apt. and get settled with greeter, and depending the time..either do some unpacking or if short on time I just head over to Les Cocottes for lunch. I have a simple afternoon unpacking, doing some local shopping in the neaarby spots. I have an early dinner, glass of wine and turn in early. Next morning I am on Paris time!

I, personally, would not plan the Louvre for arrival day. Wander about your area, do some local shopping, find a good spot for dinner and go from there. Enjoy your planning!

I am meeting Sue in lobby of the Crillon at 11:25. I already know that it will be a great day. I hope that Sue enjoys it too!

It looks a bit wet outside. Not raining now. No wind. Partial clouds..too early to know what it is going to do....

a bientot....

Joan

JeanneB Nov 15th, 2009 06:17 AM

europenovice:
I second joan's advice. Do not plan to do any museums that first day. You want to be outside (helps jet lag). Walking is a great way to get your land legs back.

Spend that day getting your bearings. Walk over to the river, get to know "your" neighborhood, get in your head where landmarks are in relation to your place. Grab a sidewalk crepe at the first opportunity!

Plan an early dinner. Nothing too heavy or fancy. Keep everything kind of low key and spontaneous. No fixed schedule or rushing to meet a "deadline". That's what works for me to get me relaxed, tired, and ready for a good night's sleep.

RobertaL Nov 15th, 2009 06:32 AM

europenovice,

I agree as well. Explore the area, spend alot of time outdoors. Usually on my first day, I pick up a bunch of food/desserts and have a picnic under the Eiffel Tower. It allows me to settle in and plan my day...

Joan, sounds like you had a wonderful evening! Can't wait to hear about your brunch today, that is always a highlight. I wonder if that gentleman will still be there...

-Roberta

gracejoan3 Nov 15th, 2009 08:24 AM

A nice day. I walked across the street to take the 42 bus and found out that some buses were not running for part of the day. I walked down to Ecole Militaire and took the Metro to Concorde and the Crillon. I looked in the boutique and then sat down to wait for Sue. She arrived a few minutes later. We sat and chatted about what we had done the night before. We then walked down to the l'Obe and were nicely greeted by Frederic and seated at my 'regular' table.

We began with a glass of Champagne and then I ordered the special for the day and Sue ordered a la carte. We had a long and most enjoyable lunch. I think Sue did enjoy her first experience at l'Obe. We then leisurely walked down Rivoli and up Castiglione to the Ritz Hotel and the Bar Vendome. We had a nice table and and ordered drinks and had a nice long visit, solving all the problems of the world! Think it will take longer than that!

We then walked back to Rivoli and she went in one direction and I in the other. I took the 42 bus 'home' and got here just before dark.

A nice day and a nice visit with a new travel friend!

Here are some pictures of our afternoon:

http://s271.photobucket.com/albums/j...t=64363351.pbw

a bientot...

Joan

tod Nov 15th, 2009 09:10 AM

Hi Joan,
Thank you once again for those absolutely wonderful photos of your special lunch! And thank you for sending such a lovely photo of you two gals! I called my DH to come and take a peek at the lady who has such tremendous fun in Paris not once, but twice a year!
I appreciate you giving me the cost of your meal the other night at Violon.

sueb08 Nov 15th, 2009 12:22 PM

JOAN

YOUR PICTURES TURNED OUT GREAT. THAT FOOD LOOKS AS GOOD AS IT TASTES!!
I STOPPED ON THE WAY HOME TO GET SOME WATER AND ACOKE LIGHT. I WALKED ACROSS THE STREET FORM MY HOTEL AND PICKED UP A BOTTLE OF 2005 BORDEAUX FROM THE PAULIC[SP?] REGION. HE SAID THAT WAS THE TOP REGION. I TOLD HIM MY FRIEND HAD TOLD ME THAT TODAY. I WILL TAKE IT HOME FOR HUSBAND. I ,THEN, WALKED OVER TO AMORINA FOR A CAFE ICE CREAM. IT WAS THE PETIT CUP. WHAT A HIGH CALORIE DAY. FUN ONCE IN AWHILE. ALSO, I STOPPED AND GOT A METRO MAP AND A BUS MAP. ALSO BOUGHT THE SAME PARIS 3 PLAN BOOK. THANK U FOR THE GREAT COMPANY TODAY. IT WAS GREAT TO BREAK BREAD WIH YOU.
TOMORROW IS MY LAST DAY SO AM PLANNING HOW TO USE MY TIME WISELY.
THANKS FOR ALL THE GREAT ADVICE. IT WAS A GREAT DAY OF VISITING AND SOLVING THE WORLD PROBLEMS.

SUE

yestravel Nov 15th, 2009 12:48 PM

Just checking in to get my weekly Paris fix -- what wonderful pictures! So enjoying following along on your visit to Paris, Joan.

grandmere Nov 15th, 2009 03:20 PM

it looks like a wonderful time in Paris for Joan and Sue!


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