Paris Never Disappoints
 

My daughter and I are back from a recent trip to Paris. She is not like other cities. She is living, breathing, vital and gorgeous. Her architechure is astounding. Her people are gracious, helpful and I can't wait to go back. This was my second visit (with 2 different daughters). I have one more daughter and will go again. If I had known I was going to go to Paris separately with my daughters, I'd have had more daughters. We stayed at a small, one star hotel on 28, place Denfert-Rochereau called Hotel Floridor. This was not the hotel we had planned on, but they cancelled us. When we saw this little hotel our hearts sunk but we ended up loving it. It was spotless, had a private bath with shower, an elevator, tv, phone, was convenient to the Metro and safe. It also had a charming neighborhood in back of the hotel, rue Daguerre. This was a wonderful area and one of our favorite restaurants was there. La Forchetta is an Italian restaurant with wonderful chefs and the manager is friendly and quipped that "the wine is good" as he filled our glasses. There are 2 antique shops and several open air markets. It is a non-tourist area and we loved it. Our other favorite area is St Germain des Pres. Le Petit Zinc is in this area and the food, wine and service is wonderful. We did the museums and by all means buy a museum pass. You're sure to get your money's worth but better still - you walk right in - no standing in line. We did all the touristy things and even shopped a little. We went to the Opera Garnier and saw La Clemenza di Tito by Mozart. Everything was wonderful. But my favorite thing to do is to sit at a sidewalk cafe - have a salad and a glass of wine - and enjoy the atmosphere of Paris with my daughter. What a lucky lady I am. I have 3 daughters who want to see Paris with their Mom. If anyone has any questions please feel free to e-mail me. I'll help all I can. Mary

Though it's chic to love Paris, I still view it as being somewhat like New York with a much advanced metro system. What I found best about Paris (other than the Louvre) is its closeness to Brugge, Strasbourg, and Switzerland. <BR>

Mary, I loved reading your account of Paris.She sounds just like me living,breathing,vital,and gorgeous.On a good day that is. <BR>Seriously,you captured some of the essense of paris and gave me vicarious pleasure. <BR>Can you remember the prices at the Italian restaurant ?

Paris is an "it" not a "she." <BR>

Hey miss smartie pants,Paris can be a she.London,Munich and Berlin are he. <BR>Paris,Prague Venice and Vienna are she.

Mary: <BR> <BR>I enjoy your characterization of Paris and appreciate your sharing what was obviously such a wonderful vacation. <BR>And as for having more daughters, I suspect there's several women on the forum who'd willingly be adopted to partake of your mother/daugher visits to the City of Lights. <BR> <BR>I'd like to hear more about your night at the opera. Did read your posting in the "Opera" topic in which you mentioned your seats cost 750 francs? I'm hoping that was the cost for best seats in the house and perhaps, they offer a few cheaper chairs? <BR>

Mary: <BR> <BR>I enjoy your characterization of Paris and appreciate your sharing what was obviously such a wonderful vacation. <BR>And as for having more daughters, I suspect there's several women on the forum who'd willingly be adopted to partake of your mother/daugher visits to the City of Lights. <BR> <BR>I'd like to hear more about your night at the opera. Did read your posting in the "Opera" topic in which you mentioned your seats cost 750 francs? I'm hoping that was the cost for best seats in the house and perhaps, they offer a few cheaper chairs? <BR> <BR>

Thanks, everyone for your input. <BR>Catherine - I remember the wonderful food at La Forchetta (tomato-basil-mozzerella salad, gnocci with egg plant and the bread!!! Impossible to get bad bread in Paris) but I don't remember the cost. I'll ask my daughter and get back to you. <BR>Robin - when I bought the tickets to the opera I had said I wanted to spend $65usd but the median tickets were gone. All that was left were the cheapest (folding chairs) or the best. I opted for the best and while we were seated in a wonderful area for the view, they were the fold-down type at the end of the row of plushy, comfortable seats. We were very displeased with that but the opera was magnificent. <BR>My daughter, Elizabeth, told me she got a kick out of me because I obviously love Paris (chic or not) and that my enthusiasm was contagious. My face was an open book for all to see and I was almost always greeted warmly. My French is limited but I was quite surprised that I got along as well as I did - better than the last time. I was also patiently and politely coached to improve my French. Oh yes, I do love Paris.

Hi--I'm the daughter! And I second everything Mom said. We had so much fun! Unfortunately, I don't remember exactly how much the dinner at LaForchetta cost, but I believe it was moderately priced. Regarding the Opera, I think the tickets may have been cheaper if purchased directly through the Garnier, and not through the booking agency. Whatever you do in Paris, its best when shared with someone you love. Some of the best memories I have of Paris are the fun times talking with Mom at an outdoor table of a brasserie. What lucky girls we are to have a Mom who is cool! :)

Can I borrow one of your daughters? Sounds like great travel partners! <BR>

Mary & Elizabeth~Your trip sounds wonderful. I am taking my Mother to Paris in 1 1/2 weeks as a present to her for her 80th birthday. It will be her first trip to Europe. Where did you buy your museum passes and did you have to stand in a long line at the museum to buy the pass? Did you take a cruise on the Seine? Go to <BR>Versailles? Thank you! <BR>

Isn't this forum great? I love checking in and finding more input. Thanks. <BR>Donna: I'm now making plans for a return trip to Paris with my daughter, Donna. <BR>Susie: We purchased our museum passes at L'Arch De Triomphe. No, there was no line to buy and it certainly saved a tremendous amount of time at other museums. We weren't able to take the cruise on the Seine. There had been too much rain previous to our trip and they weren't running the boats until the last couple days we were there. (I did do it on my first trip with my daughter, Sheila. We took the bateau mouche (am I remembering correctly?) for a dinner with a show and the lights of Paris. Outstanding. We did go to Versailles. Elizabeth and I took the metro and made the connection with the RER to Versailles. I recommend doing this over taking a tour which I did the first time around. I prefer to stay as long as I like without having to watch the time to catch a bus. The metro system is fantastic. Just be aware that it does stop running at 11p.m. We were caught after the opera without metro transportation so we had to take a taxi. Enjoy your trip.

Hello Mary and Elizabeth, <BR> <BR>Where is this Italian restaurant, La Forchetta? I can't tell by your message which arrondessiment (sp) it's located in. Do you have an address? It sounds like a great restaurant! <BR> <BR>I have traveled with my Mother 3 times (twice to Spain (1994, 1996) and once to France (1997)) and we really enjoyed our trips together. Spain was special because I was born there and we went back for the first time in 30 years! We even went to the church at El Pardo (near Madrid) where I was baptized. And we met the Father that baptized me! What an awesome experience that was for us. <BR>

Monica, if you like italian restaurants, try this one ..... <BR>... Il Barone (italian) on Rue Robert Leopold (just off Bd du Montparnasse) (great italian food ... authentic) <BR>

Hi Monica La Forchetta is in the 14th Arrondisement. Address: 85 rue Daguerre if you wish to make reservations their phone is: 01 43 22 06 14. Enjoy

Mary: <BR> <BR>Although I appreciate your enthusiasm for a good restaurant such as La Forchetta, I would like to know if you experienced any good FRENCH restaurants. It is just odd to go to France and recommend an Italian restaurant. <BR> <BR>Daniel Lee

Mary: It was a delight to read your posting about your trip to Paris with your daughter. I too love Paris thanks to early exposure to Europe from my parents. I am taking my 15 yr.old daughter and my 70ish mother to Paris at the end of April. We are all very excited and I can't wait to experience Paris through my daughter's eyes.My mother is also anticipating her grandaughter's opinion of the city. We are staying near the Le Petit Zinc and shall try it. It is fascinating that Paris seems to lure mothers and daughters with its siren song. I am very hopeful that my daughter will fall in love with Paris as her grandmother and I have. <BR>

To Daniel Lee: We enjoyed a wonderful meal at Le Petit Zinc on 11 rue Benoit, one street behind Place St-Germain-Des Pres. It was a prix fixe menu at 168ff. I had potage of mussels and scallops, confit de canard and a heavenly chocolate dessert. The duck was fabulous - I had ordered medium but a diner at another table recommended rare. We ordered a bottle of Medoc, vittel and coffees. The total bill was 544ff. Not only is it an esthetically pleasing restaurant but the food was sinfully good. <BR>To J. Cabral: Enjoy your trip to Paris. How wonderful that 3 generations will enjoy her together. You will love Le Petit Zinc and St Germain Des Pres is a beautiful area. You'll love just walking around this neighborhood. <BR>To All: Please don't misunderstand me. I love French food and appreciate the restaurants. We had several delicious meals at brasseries. One was Low Rider but I don't remember which area we were in at the time. I had a salad (crab, avocado, grapefruit, greens, etc) which was heaven and the Muscadet wasn't bad either. Perhaps it was that La Forchetta was totally unexpected. Of course, my Italian friends here only heard that the Italian restaurant was wonderful and tales of the French restaurants went unheard.

My best friend and I are leaving the husbands at home and doing a "Girls Only" week in Paris - the first time for both of us. I'd be curious to know when tourist season begins, as we're planning a June trip and I suspect it may be very crowded then. Also, are there other suggestions for budget accommodations (the Hotel Floridor sounds great!)? We're not big on organized tours and prefer to just meander - aside from buying a museum pass ahead of time, is there anything else we should consider booking in advance? Bring on the brie! <BR>

Claudette, you picked the right month : in June, weather should be perfect, and the crowds haven't settled in yet. One small problem only : the Parisians are coming at the end of their working year and, deprived of vacation, can become a little nasty. Otherwise, I think Mary's choice (hôtel Floridor) is great ; I used to live in this neighborhood, and it is charming, utterly Parisian, with great metro access on 3 major lines. Booking is not necessary either, unless you want to go to a specific restaurant on a week-end night. If you don't want to reserve in a restaurant, just one tip : remember your US dining habits, and arrive at the restaurant around 8 PM : in the summer-time, people don't really get in before 8h30/9 PM.

Claudette: Two girls travelling together will have so much fun. If you like to cook, check out Dehillerin at 18-20, rue Coquilliere in the 1st arrondissement. The department stores have great stuff in their housewares/glassware departments; they also have 'supermarkets' for fun stuff to take home. The Rodin Museum is wonderful; the man loved women, and it shows in his sculptures. The Balzac house in the 16th is a haven in the noise of the city. The Marmottan Museum in the 16th has Monet's Waterlilies (although I think they're on tour now); the Hotel Carnavalet has all sorts of stuff about the history of France; the flea market in Clignancourt has incredible antique; so does the Louvre des Antiquaires across the street from the Louvre. Rue Mouffetard has a great street market (food); the flea market at Vanves has really tacky stuff as well as fun bargains. Women dining without male companions is very common, and considered a non-event to restaurants (theory is that, after WWII, there were so many widows who'd lost their husbands during the war that women alone became commonplace). Oftentimes, you'll be placed near the window or closest to the sidewalk (theory is that it's a recommendation to passing people that this is a good restaurant). There's been a thread about the snottiness of Parisians, which is true...part of it is the difference between American 'service' and Parisian 'service'. No Parisian waiter will ever come up to you and say "hi my name is Pierre and I'll be your waiter this evening"...nor will they stop by every few minutes "is everything ok?". One, they DON'T want to be your friend; they get paid to serve you. Two, they don't need to ask if everything is ok...because they know it is. If you need something, you just turn around, and they see you and come on over... <BR>Have fun... <BR>

Vincent, you must be jesting about the "vacation deprived" french worker. <BR> <BR>Elvira, don't you wish more french waiters would emigrate to the US? I do miss their professionalism. <BR> <BR>I also like the waiters in Italy. Often, they are more animated.

John: I would love it if French waiters emigrated here...but I think we'd have to reconsider how we look at the profession. In France (and I think it's throughout most of Europe), waiting on tables is considered a profession, and the waiters are in it for life (more or less). Here in the States, waiting tables is what you do in the summer to earn spending money for college...or while you're waiting for your break on Broadway. <BR>And yes, I like Italian waiters for their animation...things do seem to get done with a flourish. <BR>My favourite waiter story: by myself, in Tours, first one in a seafood restaurant for dinner. They sit me in the window, I order trout. As my waiter brings me my food, the gaggle of waiters huddle behind the serving bar and stare, whispering amongst themselves. I knew what was afoot, Watson...the fish came with head and tail, and they were all waiting for me to either 1)gasp or 2) puke. Foiled the little wiseguys; I had learned how to de-head, -tail, and -bone a fish from a waiter in Italy. Never saw so many crestfallen faces in all my life...but I think I won their grudging admiration because they all started coming to talk to me (practicing their English). I still giggle everytime I get served fish with all its part...

My family of 6 are traveling to Spain and then to Paris in May, 1999. I have written down your hotel and restaurant ideas and hope to be able to find/use them when we get there. Would like to find somewhere to stay maybe in Versailles which is just outside of Paris I think so if you have any ideas about hotels in Versailles would appreciate it. Really look forward to experienceing/living Paris!!! Will be with husband, son, daughter-in-law, daughter and son-in-law. Look forward to a wonderful holiday with my family. Any special sites to not miss or other hotel/restaurant ideas, please let me know. Thanks.

<BR>Mary, after reading about your wonderful trip to Paris, I dropped everything, gathered the whole family and before you knew it we were in beautiful Gay Paris. Well I don't know were to start to tell you what a wonderful, fabulous time we did have. We stayed in the hotel you recomended, it was as absolutely spotless as you said! You should be a restaurant critic, you're right on the mark (merci, merci, merci). My Mother who just turned ninety-one had the best time of her life, she just loved the Eiffel Tower and that fantastic boat cruise you went on with your first daughter. Unfortunately, all good things must come to an end - Mother slipped and fell at Versailles and banged herself up pretty badly! We had her air-lifted back to the states. After we got Mother off, we went on to Disneyland, Thanks so much for your recomendations - au Reviour

Thanks Mary and John for the restaurant information. Yes, I do like Italian food! I'm married to an Italian. :)