<Don't even give those restaurants a second glace!>

What I meant to say was glance. But by all means, have a second creme glace!

hanl: we saw people wondering around eating those beautiful ice-creams, but never found out where they were coming from. Do you have the name of the shop?

I just re-read LynnP's post and I hate to say it but I actually think that was the name of the restaurant where we had the bad meal. I knew began with a "V". Is it decorated inside with fairy lights? Maybe we were there on an "off" night, but our waiter was horrible, he forgot about us several times, and our food came stone cold. Canned vegetables, I swear. A couple of days later we were back at the market and saw our waiter smoking outside the restaurant, cat-calling American teenaged girls as they walked by!

There are some very cheap touristy restaurants in that area, but you weren't planning to eat around there anyway that I see, especially dinner. There are good restaurants, also, it is fairly predictable by the prices and general look of the place.

The Piano Muet is good, for example, on rue Mouffetard, and the Volcan is also good (which I think is at the corner of rue St Medard or Lacepede).

As for a good cafe for a coffee break, there are several around place Contrescarpe and I'd just pick the one that has the ambience that appeals to you the best as for coffee it won't matter that much. There is a good patisserie/boulangerie right on that place at the west side if you want to pick up something. I think the cafe to the north of the place seems a little "nicer" than the one to the south, but you won't have to hunt for one. Actually, my favorite cafe in that area is down in front of the Church, St Medard (called Cafe St Medard or something obvious).

Kay, I wasn't sure of the name of the ice cream place so I just did a quick Google - apparently it's Gelati d'Alberto at 45 rue Mouffetard.

Thanks hanl :)

hanl, you are going to blow my every monday diet with all this ice cream talk! That place is on my list now.

Can anyone make any lunch, dinner or cafe recommendations near the Cluny or even a little further north?

One more vote for Perraudin - we were taken there by locals our first time in Paris - we loved it! We went back again the last time we were there - still just as wonderful! (hoping to eat there next trip in 2004!)

Anybody been to Arenes de Lutece? Its a 1C amphitheatre and second most important Gallo-Roman site in Paris.

Thinking of adding to this walk, but afraid its too packed already.

Degas, we did see an amphitheater in Paris and I think it was in the Latin Quarter, but I'm not sure if that was the one you are asking about. The most interesting aspect of the one we saw was that from the outside of the building, you'd never guess that there was an amphitheater within the walls. Fortunately, we were able to understand enough French on the outside sign to want to go in. Once inside, it was interesting to watch people--adults and children--participating in a number of activities within the amphitheater.
As I say, however, I'm not sure if it's the same one you are talking about, as I don't remember its name.

The arenes de Lutece is the one that Howard is referring to. It is worth going into.Like Howard said, one way to enter is by going through what looks like a store front. (Can you say twilight zone!!)
Hemingway's apt. is across from the hotel and up the street. It is clearly marked. I would suggest reading Hemingway's "A Movable Feast". Not only does he talk about the area he gives addresses and makes it easy to take note of sights as you walk around. It is a great area with so much to see.

Okay, sounds good. I better have some good walking shoes for this one. I do have an old copy of Hemingway's "A Movable Feast" somewhere around the house and will dust it off soon.

giro, "twilight zone" is a great description. We were truly startled when we walked through the doors and short alley/portal (I think) and there was this vision of the past.

Forgot to mention another wonderful restaurant in the 5th--Toutoune at 5 rue de Pontoise. We chose it for our final meal in Paris and were not disappointed. If you go, make sure you order one of its special aperitifs.

degas, if you veer a little to the northeast, you might find this one to your liking:

Place Maubert, 5e, is transformed into a lively food market three mornings a week. Food shops are also found here, including the fromagerie Crémerie des Carmes (tel 01 43 54 50 93, 47 ter blvd Saint Germain, 5e, metro Maubert Mutualité).

I think there is also a cute little fountain around there.

Degas, one other thing to notice on your Latin Quarter adventure: Down the street from the Hemingway apartment on rue du Cardinal Lemoine, you'll see a remnant of the old wall at the first corner. I believe it dates back from medieval times.

Thanks for the additional info - a tad more fine-tuning, and this litle puppy is ready to be put to bed.

Will move east a bit and check out some things.

Another vote for Howards suggestion of Chez Toutounne on the Rue Pontoise. Excellent food, and a charming owner.

bookmarking

The fact that this 4 year old thread would be resurrected simply for bookmarking purposes is unbelievable. Having said that it does underline the need to re-ask questions as information and recommendations do change.
Perraudin IMO is now one of the most touristy restaurant that we have been in. We have encountered few locals - English was the predominant language. It was also the only retaurant that we have been in where they were actively trying to turn tables. We were fed and billed within an hour, our main course arrived wihile we were still enjoying our appetizers.
Secondly, there are several excellent restaurants in the upper Mouufetard area (slammed within this thread). Le Vigneron and La Truffiere are two, plus there are a number of superb couscouseries.

Hemingway supposedly took a room at the La Maison de Verlaine so that he could write undisturbed. It's here and you can just make out a sing on the wall to that effect...

http://babette.smugmug.com/photos/22422883-L-1.jpg

He first lived at 74 rue du Cardinal Lemoine. The question is what floor since the first floor is not called that in France.

Pjk