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Paris Holiday with daughter - dreamed of for years by mother

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Paris Holiday with daughter - dreamed of for years by mother

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Old Apr 25th, 2009, 07:59 PM
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Paris Holiday with daughter - dreamed of for years by mother

I had dreamed of going to Paris for DD's 16th birthday ever since she was 5 years old.

Although I call this my first trip to Paris it is not quite the truth.
I fell in love with Paris 23 years ago.
I was in Paris for 3 days during an exhaustive month long European trip with a friend who wanted more than friendship.
It ended up being quite unpleasant and I was eager to see Paris again with fresh eyes.

I was determined to make this trip memorable.
This would be the first time that DD and I were going on vacation without DH and I was a little nervous.
I started reading books and travel forums and discovered Fodor’s.
What a godsend!
After reading many trip reports I mustered up the courage to post for advice. I was quite unprepared and overwhelmed by the incredible response I received from the community.
Thank you thank you thank you.

After a lot of discussion I ultimately chose to stay in an apartment for 8 days.
Apartment #122 from Vacation in Paris situated in the 6th seemed perfect for us in terms of the size and the location.
Thanks Guenmai.
Also, with the uncertainty of the euro, I was glad to pay for it in dollars.

March 31.

We arrived at CDG around 9:30 a.m. and were met by Intershuttle to whisk us off to our apartment.
After an exhausting overnight trip from S.F. it was wonderful to be met by our driver and escorted to a waiting car.
Thanks GraceJoan,
We had a little bit of difficulty getting into the apartment. – the key takes a certain amount of jiggling.
We unpacked, freshened up and decided to explore a little.
By now our stomachs were growling so we had our 1st French lunch at a café around the corner. I think it was called Fenalon. The salad nicoise and the croque monsieur (without ham) were heavenly. We were so excited to finally be in Paris that you could have served us doggy doo doo and we would have been thrilled.

It was a gorgeous day and we enjoyed walking around the neighbourhood. The apartment really was in a great location. Cafes and shops and lots of young people with lots of great energy surrounded us.
Although we had not planned on a nap, our bodies and eyes told us differently. We decided to waste no more than 2 hours sleeping.
After our nap, refreshed and ready we walked along the Seine enjoying the Parisian air. We made our way to Pont-Neuf to take the Vedettes cruise. It was the perfect low-key thing to do on our 1st day introducing us to the monuments along the Seine. I took the advice of Fodorites and planned it so we could see the sunset as we were coming back to Pont Neuf. The beauty of the sun shimmering on the water was simply spectacular.
After the cruise we continued our exploration on Rue Mazarine checking out the cool stores and restaurants. Sadly, all the stores close at 7 p.m. We ended up on the convergence of Rue Mazarine, Rue Dauphine, Rue Buci and Rue Seine.
It seemed that all of the 6th was out and about at this time. The cafes were bustling and DD and I wanted to be a part of it. We found a sidewalk table at Bistro Buci, enjoyed our Cote du Rhone and fromage plat. By 8 p.m. we were ready to call it a night.
But it wasn’t over yet. Walking to our apartment we came upon Amarino.
Thanks Thin.
This is truly heaven on earth. (I will be saying that a lot about a lot of places in Paris).
I chose the nougat and the stracciatella gelato, which was presented to me in the shape of a beautiful flower. Being lactose intolerant, DD chose to share my cone.
Sleep came to us easily that night.

4/1
We woke up early raring to go. We arrived at the Eiffel tower by 9:15 a.m. and joined the small crowd waiting for it to open at 9:30 a.m. Soon we were up on the 2nd floor looking down at some breathtaking views through the fog that surrounded the tower. It was pretty cold and windy and we did not stay up very long.
By the time we came down, the crowds were humongous. I am so glad we did this early and not in the afternoon as I had originally planned.
We wandered around and waited to take the Fat Bike tour at 11 a.m.
Through the throngs of people DD spotted a couple of school friends waiting to get up the tower. What are the odds of something like that?
We selected our bikes at the office of Fat Bike tours that is about 10 min away from the tower. I was actually quite nervous, as I had not been on a bike for several years but it ended up being quite easy. Well, except for the old woman I ran over and the suits that I bumped into – almost.
We rode on bike paths, sidewalks and streets sometimes blocking traffic and receiving a lot of birds. We were not fazed.
After lunch at the Tuileries, we rode back to drop off the bikes. It had been the most fun 4 hours.
DD and I then walked to Place Invalides and Dome Church where I bought a 6-day museum pass. DD is free as she is under 18.
We visited the Rodin museum and gardens and enjoyed some wine and cheese at the café Rodin.
By now it was almost 6 p.m. and we had to rush back to our apartment as we were meeting P (our housekeeper) who was very curious about seeing our place.
As expected, P had already arrived and was waiting for us surveying the scene. Having lived in Paris for a few years and then visiting friends annually she was quite familiar with the area. She had brought us some wonderful pastries from this very famous patisserie whose name I cannot recall.
We set off for drinks to Bar Marche, which like most other cafes, was heavily populated, loud and fun.
Have you noticed how animated the French are especially at cafes and especially when drinking?
We had frites and legume brioche (fried zucchini) with our drinks.
I had wanted to take P out to dinner but she had commitments with friends and needed to return by 9:30 p.m.
We walked her to the Metro Mabillon taking the long way, window-shopping as we went.
By now, DD was starting to stress. This was the day that the college decisions were to come out. She had many internal debates whether or not to check her e-mails and finally decided that she would.
DD did not get into the college of her choice – the only one she had focused on.
She was devastated and inconsolable. The fact that she did get into some other great schools was of no consolation. We had a terrible sleepless night.
Our plans of visiting Giverny the next day flew out the window.

to be continued....
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Old Apr 25th, 2009, 08:07 PM
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Loving your trip report, but could you use paragraphs to make it easier for these old eyes?

Thanks,

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Old Apr 25th, 2009, 08:09 PM
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Yours is a wonderful report, and it brings back the feelings of our first trip to Paris. We have now been there 6 times and can't wait for the 7th.

There is something about that city, and you have captured it perfectly.

Please continue.
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Old Apr 25th, 2009, 08:12 PM
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abranz - I have been waiting with baited breath for your report! When you mentioned Amarino, I had such wonderful memories - - I loved Amarino's. We went there twice - heavenly. I'm so sorry to hear about DD heartbreak. I hope things improved!! Patti
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Old Apr 25th, 2009, 09:58 PM
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nukesafe,
My apologies. I will try to do better with the paragraphs.
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Old Apr 25th, 2009, 10:02 PM
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patti,
i thought of you the entire time we were in paris especially at amorino and when we took the bus to the trocadero to see tour eiffel.

you were staying around the corner from us weren't you?

it has taken a while to get the trip report going as right after our return home, we took off for the east coast to re-visit the schools that dd had been accepted to.
she needs to make a decision by may 1st and she is still weighing 3 schools.
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Old Apr 25th, 2009, 10:15 PM
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4/2

Woke up quite late today. Last night seemed surreal. Was it April Fools?

Left apartment around 11 a.m. looking for food. DD and I shared a couple of crepes – chicken, cheese & tomato and chocolate.

Now that my carefully planned itinerary was blown, I had to re-plan.
We decided to take the metro to Montmartre. What a completely different kind of Paris this was.

The walk from the metro to the base of Sacre Couer showed a slightly seamy side of Paris. But then after wading through streets of cheap touristy shops we came upon the glorious sight of Sacre Couer.

We wanted to take advantage of the funicular to go to the top. The climb up looked arduous and we were not willing to take the challenge.

While waiting at the funicular we were amused to witness one of the scams I had read about. This quite attractive olive skinned man was intent on chatting up and making a bracelet on the wrist of a young blond guy who looked friendly but quite bewildered. I guess no one had warned him.
DD and I were very curious to see how this would turn out but the arrival of the funicular conflicted with our interest.

The views from the top at Sacre Couer are beyond spectacular. It was a hot day so DD and I got a couple of drinks and sat on the steps admiring the view and people watching.

DD wanted to talk about the events of last night and how she had resolved to handle her disappointment. I was so proud of her then. She was taking a very pragmatic and adult approach to the rejection and making plans to move forward.

Although I am not a Christian, there is something about churches that calls out to me. There is a feeling that overwhelms me that I do not understand and certainly cannot explain.
The mosaic inside the church was breathtaking. We sat in the pews taking in the simplicity and the beauty surrounding us, so grateful to be a part of it.

Feeling very peaceful, we walked to the charming village of Montmartre. The square was teeming with artists many of whom wanted to draw us or any other tourist willing to part with some euros.

DD and I were not playing and chose to sit at a café, take in the scene and have some cold beer. We walked around looking for signs of where some of our favourite artists had lived and worked.
As we wandered through the shops DD found some cool postcards to send back home.

We then returned to St. Michel walked to Saint Severin admiring the architecture and the spectacular stained glass windows.

It had been a long emotional day for us.
We wandered through the streets around Rue Buci and dined on moules frites and a goat cheese salad.

The night could not end without Amorino for me. DD just took a few licks.

4/3

We could not start our day without our daily fix of crepes. Today, we chose simple but delicious sugar crepes.

We took the bus to the Louvre and signed up for a guided tour. We had some time to kill before the tour so we wandered around on our own in awe of the amazing art around us.
The tour lasted 1 ½ hour and basically took us through the highlights – Mona Lisa, Venus de Milo and the Winged Victory.

After being on our feet all morning we needed some nourishment and sought Angelina’s on Rue Rivoli.
Luckily there was no wait and we were seated promptly. We were drooling as we watched people around us slurping on chocolate and licking the cream.

We decided to be good and started with the smoked salmon salad and broccoli quiche. The quiche was unlike any we have ever tasted and we could have had seconds or even thirds. But we had to save ourselves for the dessert.

We finished with the Chocolat Africain with a mountain of whipped cream and a couple of decadent very high caloric desserts. Another heaven on earth moment.

We had reservations for a fashion show at the Galaries Lafayette that afternoon and wanted to take in some shopping as well.

On our way, we admired the architecture of the Opera Garnier. We had not left enough time until the fashion show and unfortunately did not go inside.

The Galeries Lafayette building is breathtaking.
Is there any building in Paris that isn’t?
It did not look at all like a department store and we spent a few moments in awe admiring the dome with our mouths hanging open.

The shopping was disappointing. Most of the product on the floor was stuff we had seen in the U.S. We hoped the fashion show would give us some thing to get excited over.

The crowd awaiting the show was large and consisted of some obnoxious pushy Americans. This is when I was embarrassed for us. What gives us - Americans the right to criticize the way the Parisians conduct business when we are in their country?

If we were expecting more from the fashion show, we were sadly disappointed. They featured Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren and FCUK – all of which are abundantly available in the U.S.

We continued with our shopping in some of the surrounding boutiques and ended up thirsty and tired at Le Printemps.
We made our way to the top floor café to sit back and admire yet another gorgeous stained glass dome.
This was such an interesting juxtaposition of antique stained glass with modern furnishings and décor. ( We later found out that this restaurant and Angelina's were run by the same corporation)
Once again we had wine and cheese. This time it was a delicious perfectly chilled Burgundy.

Fortified after our short break we returned to St. Michel and spent some time at a sidewalk table enjoying raspberry mojitos.

At this point we were getting a little tired of the wine, baguette and cheese. Really!!!!!
We remembered some Indian and Japanese restaurants we had walked by on Rue Mazarine. We ended up having Indian food in Paris! It was surprisingly quite good.

We wanted to stay up late but needed to get up early in the a.m. for Giverny.
Went to bed at midnight.

to be continued......
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Old Apr 26th, 2009, 06:16 AM
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I am really enjoying your report; can't wait for more.

The bracelet guys got my DS when we were there. They are very smooth.
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Old Apr 26th, 2009, 06:33 AM
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I'm really enjoying your report. I stayed in the same apartment last September--great location. We finally managed the key by only singly locking the door. In one week I had a least three ice creams from Amarino!

But, food aside, I like your recount of a mom and daughter traveling together. Seems you have wonderful rapport.

Thanks.
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Old Apr 26th, 2009, 07:00 AM
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Love this...

My grandmother took my mother to Paris when she turned 16, and since learning of this, I've been wishing to take my DD there when she turns 16... she just turned 4 ! I guess I'll have a long time to plan! Do you think 16 is a good age, or would 18 be better? I can't even imagine my girl being 16 some day!

Looking forward to reading more!
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Old Apr 26th, 2009, 08:08 AM
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gundy,
sorry to hear your son got scammed. i bet he had no idea what hit him.
knowing what we knew it was fascinating to see how slick the operation was.

cathie,
i remember reading about your problem as well with the key to the apt.
i just wish i had remembered your trick. we took turns jiggling it till it finally clicked.
it was sort of funny when we started challenging each other to see who could open it faster.

maxmox,
you have sooooo many years to plan this trip.
except for the blip about college, it was everything i had imagined it to be.
16 is a great age.
dd is mature enough and i am immature enough that we have a great time together.
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Old Apr 26th, 2009, 08:20 AM
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did your dd have the wine and beer with you? we are considering letting ds ( 16 ) have some one night at a big dinner. Guess the "legal" age is much younger?
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Old Apr 26th, 2009, 08:26 AM
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4/4

We could not rouse ourselves out of bed this morning. Our bodies and feet were aching and swollen.
Thanks to Patti’s (yellowrose) advice we had soaked our feet in ice cold water and taken a ton of ibuprofen every night.
I’m sure doing so was an improvement of what could have been.
We managed to make our way out of the apartment bleary eyed and fuzzy brained.


Today we were to visit Giverny.

DD had discovered Monet when she was 7 years old and had planned a trip to Giverny by following Linnea in Monet’s garden. Finally her trip was coming through.

We had looked up all the travel information to go to Giverny but some how this morning we could not get our act together.

We were unable to find the bus stop to catch the bus to Gare S.Lazare. After a lot of frustrated wandering, we took the metro and ended up being completely overwhelmed and lost upon arriving at Gare St. Lazare.
We eventually realized that we needed to get out of the metro station and go to the train station that was at street level.

We arrived; as the train to Giverny was due to depart in 15 minutes. How fortuitous!

Now, we just had to buy the tickets and we would be on our way.
Not so easy…..
None of the automated machines accepted my credit cards or cash and the line for the ticket counter was a mile long. So yes, we missed the train and had to hang around for another 1 ½ hour for the next one.

In our rush, we had not eaten that morning and now that we had time to kill we went to a restaurant right outside the station and had more bread and cheese.

Thankfully we made it back on time for the train.

Upon arriving at Vernon we took the local bus to Giverny.
Monet’s house and garden was a short walk from the bus stop.

Although the water lilies were not in bloom, the rest of the garden was very vibrant and colourful. We took our time to absorb everything.
It was really cool to wander through the house and gardens until we realized that in our joy of being there we had missed the bus that would take us back to the train station at Vernon.

By now we were quite cold so we settled for Irish coffee and a coffee with Calvados to warm us up.

Based on the train schedule we were given when purchasing our tickets we were quite excited to take the bus back to Vernon 'only' an hour later to take the 4:53 train back to Paris.
We had hopes of salvaging some of the day.

So we waited patiently and as 4:53 came and went with no signs of the train or other passengers we suspected there was problem.
Sure enough there was a problem. We had been given incorrect train information.
The train to Paris was not to arrive until 5:53!

We walked to the small town of Vernon, which had been described as charming.
By now we were frozen, tired and very crabby and in this state there was nothing that seemed charming or appealing.
We ended up returning to the train station and hung out at a bar/café right outside.
We had tea and the absolute worst baguette cheese sandwich prepared very enthusiastically and proudly by the proprietor.

We finally made our way back to Paris at 7 p.m.

Our plans to go to the l’Orangerie to see Monet’s original water lilies were dashed.
We settled for a Japanese dinner and bedtime around 10:30.

All in all a very frustrating day. But, we were in Paris!!!

to be continued.....
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Old Apr 26th, 2009, 08:27 AM
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abranz--I am thoroughly enjoying reading about your trip! We had been as a family 7 years ago, but then 2 years ago DD and I went when she was 16. We took my mom along, so it was just the 3 of us girls. It really is different dynamics isn't it? I am taking DD again in about six weeks and I can't wait! She will be 18 and will leave for college in the fall. We too are using VIP, but staying in the 1st.
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Old Apr 26th, 2009, 08:38 AM
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4ddaw,

some people are horrified that i permit dd to drink.

i was raised with a small glass of wine at special meals and i have raised dd the same way. she has no fascination with the drinking and drunkenness that takes place at teen parties

the drinking age in europe is also much younger - 16 i think and no one batted an eye when she placed her order.

sometimes i think the restrictions make us more enamoured of what is taboo.
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Old Apr 26th, 2009, 08:41 AM
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mms,
i am jealous. i want to be back right now.
the dynamic does change when you have 3 generations.
we did that with my mom for dd's 13th when we went to n.y. and it was much slower paced.
it was wonderful for my mom though and in a different way it was wonderful for us too.
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Old Apr 26th, 2009, 09:33 AM
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abranz--We had the same experience with drinking. DD doesn't have any desire here, but has had drinks with us on trips to Europe. Normally I would be counting down the days til we go, but I am too busy with kids sports and upcoming graduation. The problem with that is I won't be as prepared as other times!
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Old Apr 26th, 2009, 09:57 AM
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I'm happy to see your trip report. I think you will remember for a long time your discussion on the steps of Montmartre about your daughter's college decision.
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Old Apr 26th, 2009, 01:56 PM
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I enjoy all trip reports, and in particular (as a mother of 2 boys) like to be brought along on mother daughter trips Thanks for submitting, and I look forward to the next installment!
V
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Old Apr 26th, 2009, 02:51 PM
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Abranz!!!

Wonderful report! You are feeding two hungers for me - SO and I leave arrive in Paris two weeks from today, and I am determined to plan a Paris trip for DD when she is 16 (she just turned 14). I think 16 or 17 is the perfect age. Much older and they would rather be with their friends; younger and they just won't get it. Is your DD a junior? If I take DD at 16, it will be between her Sophomore and Junior year of HS. I wonder if one more year would be better...

And I do agree on your "drinking" philosophy. It is one I share, or would have, if my boys hadn't chosen to experiment on their own first. I'm hoping DD will be wiser!

Eagerly waiting for your next installment...
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