Paris Bistros & Brassieres
 

For as many times we we've been to Paris (yes, more than 10 times), we've had terrible luck when choosing restaurants!

My better half and I will be in Paris for 3 nights in October during Fashion Week so I think we may want to book reservations ahead of time just to make sure we don't get stuck at Planet Hollywood! :) It doesn't really matter which arrondisment--we're just a metro or taxi ride away. We're actually staying at the Lancaster and I'm curious if anyone has anyone eaten in their restaurant?

I'd love to hear about some of your favorites. We're not picky, we like fish & shellfish, beef, poultry, Italian, etc. Something less than $100 for two would be great.

Merci!

L'Avant Gout in the 13th on rue Bobillot (sp?). Metro to Place d'Italie.

Gets mixed reviews here, but I really enjoyed it. Should be less than $100 for two if you go easy on the wine. Definitely not Planet Hollywood.

Our two favorite bistros: Au Petit Marguery, in the 13th, and Le Bistro de Breteuil, in the 7th.

I really like Allard, a quintessential bistro in the 6th--corner of rue St. Andre des Arts and rue de l'Eperon. Their first course salad of mache and beets is wonderful. Try the duck with olives if you like olives; truly smothered in olives.

Also just discovered Le Coupe Chou, in the fifth, 9 & 11 rue Lanneau and thought it was great, too. www.lecoupechou.com
The Poelon d'Aubergines was marvelous as a first course.

Happy trip and happy eating!

Astier, located at 44 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, Phone: 01-43-57-16-35 (Metro: Republique). They have a fabulous fixed price menu and a cheese board to die for!

a word about Allard: we were in Paris for 10 days/nights in July, and had really looked forward to Allard from reading about it here, and from a friend elsewhere -- while the food was great (loved the duck w/olives! very different!) and the service and decor quite "French", every single table was occupied by Americans (one table may have been Brits). This was the only night that this happened to us, and the couple next to us from Boston area chatted us up, nice people, but I would say that if you do go there, know to expect lots of tourists. I think it's just been written up way too much. (really, it was the only night this happened!)
I had gone over there with a long list of spots from this board and from other collected info, and stumbled onto our own places 1/2 the time, followed

oops - I'm on business travel, using a laptop from a cruddy desk chair that has me sitting about 10 inches too low: hit a wrong button ---
wanted to say: just wandering around, we found our own spots 1/2 the time, but used this board the other half. I'd say this board is a huge help; I generally just search prior (fairly recent) posts here (restaurants Paris), and just copy & paste to build a list. Takes a bit of searching, but gets me in the mood, also!
In my 6 trips to Paris, my biggest disappointment was Le Grand Vefour, and I've just learned that, although I may love the fancy spots here at home, I seem to prefer the smaller, less stuffy spots over in Paris. Is that perhaps the reason you've had terrible luck? Maybe it's the spots you're hitting - search here and I can't believe you won't be delighted!

I second the recommendation of Le Coupe Chou. It's got a handy Latin Quarter location (across from the College du France), atmosphere (candlelight, huge fireplace, an ancient building), and the boeuf bourgignon was very good.

I loved your typo because linking brassieres to Paris would be quite easy in my mind. Anyway, on a more serious note, I loved Le Petit Zinc in the 7th. Good luck.

Seconding the Astier (very good restaurant sleuthing, mnapoli!). And if you enjoy it, you may also want to check out the nearby Villaret, at 13 rue Ternaux, which has the highest GaultMillau rating of any restaurant in the 11th arrondissement, and the same owner/chef.

I really don't care if my table companions are American, Brits or Yugoslaves..Allard has wonderful food. We really like Chez Fernand on rue Christine and Le Coupe Choux is on our list for next month..along with Le Petit Prince, Le telegraphe, Bistroit de Paris, Bistroit de Breuteuil.

ALways good spots ..Rotisserie d'un face, Bookinisteries, Chez Julian, espadon Bleu, chez Christine, Reminet.

One place i no longer enjoy ..after 25 or more trips to Paris..is Chez Maitre Paul. We loved it when we first went there 20 or more years ago..when Maitre Paul was in the open kitchen. Now it has been "touristized" and Paul and Madame are long gone!

just spent 3 weeks in Paris--best restaurants: La Marine, Relais Gascon, Cafe Beaubourg, Au Pied Cochon (onion soup), Amorino's (ice cream), La Coupole, L'Ambassade Auvenrgne
bon appétit

Jody, I'll be interested in hearing your opinion of Bistro de Breteuil; I was disappointed with the food and service there in May. I had had a very good meal there several years ago.

Maybe July had something to do with all the Americans in Allard; my three times there were in March and May, and I did not have that experience at all.

Wayne...thank you for noticing! Actually I typo'd brasserie incorrectly to create attention.

I figured restaurant questions are asked so frequently that people are bored by them. I was trying to think of something different in my title that would create interest so people would be inspired to open the thread.
Now that I think of it, I should have just titled the thread, "Help me find a brassiere in Paris" :)


Thanks the suggestions!! Anything on the Ile St Louis? I've never eaten there and would love to try someplace great!

If you really want brassieres, you can see a wall full of them at Les Fetes Galantes, on rue de l'Ecole Polytechnique near the Pantheon. This is a tiny and very good restaurant. The chef explained the wall of bras to my husband and me as follows:

A woman attorney was dining there and the chef told her he thought she would become a judge. The woman said no, but if she was made a judge, she would take off her panties. Well, she was, of course, and she did.

But the chef said the panties were "pas si jolie" and so she took off her bra. That apparently was prettier, so he hung it on the wall.

At least that's how I understood the story, which was told in French, so my understanding might have been imperfect. In any event, women have been, uh, following suit ever since. In fact if you comment on it, the chef or the teenage waiter whom I imagine is his son will ask if you want to leave yours as well.

DH and I just returned from Paris and ate at a wonderful restaurant in the 19th called Le Cave Gourmand - Restaurant Mark Singer. Click on my name and you'll find our review.

If you are ok with casual, Bistrot Baracane is very very good. I'm glad someone else likes Cafe Beauborg; I do. Seating is a little uncomfortable but the food is good and the clientele are tres cool.

I used to love L'Auberge de la Reine Blanche on the Ile St. Louis; haven't been there since 2002. Anyone been there recently?

Two restaurants in the Marais we like are:

Le Pamphlet
Dome du Marais.

May be a bit over your budget but not by too much. Reservations a must. For Fashion Week I would have your hotel make reservations now.

Anthony

In the 2nd, the brasserie Le Vaudeville, on rue Vivienne across the plaza from the Bourse [Bourse Metro]. Great meals, service, decor and atmosphere. Opens to the street during periods of warm weather. Lunch and dinner.

Here's a covered passage walk a stop for lunch.

Metro to Le Peletier, westerly to the corner and right down rue du Faubourg Monmartre. Right into Passage Verdeau and then straight into Passage Jouffroy, home to the Musee Grevin. Then directly across the steet int the Passage des Panoramas, exiting to the right on rue Vivienne. After lunch, keep going down Vivienne on the left side and into Galleries Vivienne and Colbert, which run parallel to each other. Exiting these, there is a little passage across the street which leads into the Palais Royale.

I 2nd Le Vaudville, the food is great, and it just feels like everything you've ever dreamed of about dining at a French brasserie. We also had a great meal at Willi's Wine Bar. Delicious food, lovely staff, and, of course, great wine.

Hi Just returned from Paris, and we had a fabulous meal at Le Caveau de l'Isle on Isle St. Louise. 36 rue Saint-Louis en l'Isle. Probably the best "whole" meal we had. ie each course was good.

See my recent report for other restaurants we went to, press on my name.

I must admit we got a little fed up with so many of the restaurants being full of tourists. The majority being American, I have to be diplomatic here so as not hurt anyone's feelings, but gee they speak so loudly and as for eating with the baseball hats on, don't get me started. grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.

tagging for future reference

Grandmere,
I'll let you know what we think about Bistro d' Breuteil next month. It's near a friend's apartment and we'll probably collapse there after a day with Michael Osman!

L'Auberge de la Reine Blanche has changed hands but the food was still excellent last fall. It was closed for some renovations when we were in Paris in Feb but was due to reopen shortly. I'll let you know about that too since we are fond of it also.

If you don't want to eat in restaurants full of tourists, then don't go to touristy restaurants in touristy neighborhoods!
We usually stay in the 16th arrond and most restaurants in that area are decidely untouristy (except around La Muette). You may hear some English spoken, but those diners are for the most part expats. No baseball caps, just dogs under the tables.
Our favorite casual restaurant is Bar des Theatres on the Ave. Montaigne across the street from the Plaza Athenee Hotel. Its customers are mostly staff from the designer boutiques along the avenue, chauffeurs for the fashionistas/celebs staying at the PA, eccentric locals, and some fashion mag editors taking a break from the more chic dining spots. Good food, friendly service, inexpensive, great for hearing juicy gossip, and the restaurant is reputed to make some of the best steak tartare in town (I don't eat it, so can't say).

try this restaurant:Chez Lena and Mimile at 32, Rue Tournefort

Our cooking class teacher recommended it and it was very nice. 35 euros for the complete menu: a kir royale, amuse bouche, first course, second course, dessert, coffee and a bottle of wine, gratuity included. And it is a lovely setting.

L'Avant Gout near Place d'Italie - excellent locals place and a great find for us when we were there early this year.

Here are my recommendations, they should be within your budget. Go to the link of my site and click on "Paris - EAT" on the left hand column.

http://richardab.typepad.com/iheartparis/

Personally, my favorite is L'Endroit which is located on the edge of the Marais near the Bastille.

Chartier's is great for both food and atmosphere... Just had a wee search and they have a website.

http://www.restaurant-chartier.com/www/

Just had a quick read through the other posts and I dont think anyone answered your question about eating at the Lancaster.

We stayed there for several nights and ate there often. We found it a little oasis walking in off the busy streets. Thoroughly enjoyed the food there too.

We had a delicious lunch at Willi's Wine bar in mid Sept. Also enjoyed La Tour de Montlhery [Chez Denise] and La Fontaine de Mars. We found all of these in the Michelin guide but Willi's is not listed as a bistro.

If you want an out of the way place, go to L'Os a Moelle, 15th Arr. - This is a great place that's worth finding (only a block away from the Felix Fauvre Metro stop). The chef is a former student of Christian Constant, who has inspired a generation of followers in Paris with a philosophy of preparing simple meals perfectly and charging a reasonable price. We had a SIX-COURSE tasting menu for only 38 euros each. In addition to soup, cheese, and dessert, the meal included fois gras, rabbit, and monkfish. Our only complaint is that they gave the best seats to locals and put us in a "American table" back by the kitchen door where it got very warm. But I'd go back again in a heartbeat!

Les Bookinistes - this is Guy Savoy's "baby bistro" down by the Seine where two people can eat from a wondefully imaginative menue for under 100 euros. Reservations required.

One of our personal favorites in Paris (although it does attract a few Americans because of its location near the Eiffel Tower and the American University in Paris) is Au Bon Accueil on the Rue de Montessuy in the 7th Arrondissement. They serve a fixed menu at about 30 euros per person, and the chef goes down to the market at 4:30 each morning to pick foods for the evening's menu, which he bases upon the best things he finds at the market. A small, warm, inviting place with excellent service. Inside is warm and cozy, while eating outside gives you a wonderful view of the tower.

Richardab

I really enjoyed your recommendations, particularly the asides. I'm cutting and pasting it for reference.

Julien, on faubourg st denis is very good (metro strasbourg/st denis).

On Ile St Louis, rue de Deux Ponts, the 2nd restaurant on the right (while going south) opened in the last 6 months and is very nice (cold green pea soup was excellent) sorry I don't remember the name.

The Chartier has gone down hill in the past few years; it is interesting for the decor and simple food but do not expect a "dining" experience.

Question re: Au Pied Cochon.

I've read several places that the onion soup is terrific. Is this a place one can go for lunch and order ONLY the soup?

Yes. We stopped there for a snack and just ordered the soup--fantastic!

ttt

IT IS!!
The best onion soup I have tasted at Au Pied Cochon, and hope to go back to Chez Denise, one of my best and most fun lunches.

Au General Lafayette
52 Rue Lafayette (9th arr., metro: Peletier). Brasserie, Auvergne food specialities, Restaurant Gourmand, as they put it.

Au Chien qui fume
33 Rue du Pont Neuf (1st arr., metro: Chatelet - Les Halles) Restaurant, specializing in fresh oysters and seeafood, restauration classique, as they put it.

tagging for future reference