maldonado

I was in Barcelona last May. By all means, stay @ a hotel on the Gran Via. It puts you pretty central to the sights. Remember, Barcelona is a university town. So it can be very lively at night when the students are out and about. We stayed at the Caledonian hotel for about $130/nite US. Found it on expedia.com. The hop on/off bus was great for getting oriented and getting you around. You can pick up tickets at the end of Las Ramblas near the water's edge. I also understand some of the better and less expensive restaurants are in the Barcelonetta area (near the beach). We ran out of time to try it. We absolutely loved it and plan on returning.

Cokie1

Wow! Thank you Fodorites! We've been busy searching this sight for other advice . . . particularly liked the Italy vs. Spain questions - since we loved those hill towns in Tuscany. I'm curious whether you think that San Sebastian is worth a stop if we spend a week in Barcelona. Is it too far to drive to? If we can't fly direct from Chicago to Barcelona, should we head toward Madrid for the last couple days? I really appreciate all your advice. Once we figure out the flights, I'll be poring over these posts for hotel and restaurant recs.
Thanks again.
-Helene

wco81

Just how bad are the pickpockets?

Do they try to do it with stealth or is it more like a mugging?

emnyc, did that pickpocket try to take the backpack while your bf was still wearing it or did he have it sitting on the ground next to him?

Oh and Raval is not safe to leave your belongings if your heading out for the day?

artlover

If you can fly directly from Madrid to Chicago, it might be worth your while to fly out of there and stay a few nights and make daytrips to Segovia and Toledo--both are great. If you love art make sure you get to the Prado and Sofia in Madrid.

laclaire

wco81-

pickpockets: they are amazing at what they do. I have been picked thrice: once stealthily in the towers of la Sagrada Familia, once sort of violently (he ripped my purse off my arm and ran away in broad daylight. . . I chased and he still got away), and my cell phone was stolen totally due to stupidity on my part. When I am speaking Spanish or Catalan, I never have problems, but the minute I break out English, sketchy things start to happen. My advice is to not carry anything. Have minimal cash, keep your camera under strict watch, and break out maps only in very public areas. I don't walk down any streets that are deserted or that don't have women and children (just men means don't go there, especially for a female).

I do walk around the Raval at night, often times after having gone out drinking, and I live in the neighborhood, but it is certainly a high-crime place.

The thing with pickpockets is that they are everywhere in Barcelona, and it is a foreign concept to always be on guard. I have to take so many more precautions than I do when I am at home in Dallas, and I practice what I preach.

Tips:
Carry very little cash.
If you care about it, leave it at home.
Don't be flashy.
When on the metro, keep pressure on whatever it is you don't want to lose (press back pants pockets up to a wall, press hand to camera, etc)
When exiting the metro, no matter how tired you are, take the stairs or walk up the escalators. Most thefts happen to those stopped on the escalators, so don't do it.

Claire

wco81

So you think they would try to rip a bag from a guy?

Or try to come at him in a pack?

Yeah that's the thing, you want to take the camera, iPod and phone. All representing a lot of money.

I can deal with pickpockets but I wonder about violent confrontations. In Rome, some old couple was saying they were knocked down in Naples, right near a train station or something.

laclaire

Leave your iPod at home when traveling. It is just an extra hassle and a big ticket item. Besides, you want to hear what is going on and headphones impede that.

Confrontations are not generally violent unless they know that the prize is worth it (ie your iPod or rockin camera). Depending on where you stay, you should leave things in your room or in a safe.

Frankly, if this is your biggest worry then you are doing well.

emnyc

In answer to your question about what happened to us, we were sitting on a bench and the backpack was sitting next to my friend, but was not over his arm. A guy sat on down one side of us and kept asking us for a light and we kept telling him no, and meanwhile his friend came up from the other side and tried to carry off the bag while we were distracted. We saw it happen, my friend grabbed the bag back and yelled, "hey," and the two guys melted into the crowd. Obnoxious, disturbing, but not violent at all. They obviously wanted to avoid confrontation. I confess, the first nonsupportive thing out of my mouth after this moment was, "See, I told you so," as I had nagged him that he should be more careful about pickpockets in Barcelona thank in other places and he hadn't really believed me. I don't know if it would have happened he had kept his hand on his bag, fwiw.

otto

i second that. i live in n.y, and have seen plenty of places. i had an overwhelming feeling, almost obvious about pick pockets in barcelona. the feeling that week was no one will do you harm, but they will grab your camera!! you actually see thier eyes checking you out. this is only walking around on the main streets, certainly not in the hotel, stores, cabs, restaurants, etc...yes, by all means....keep sensitive items in your hotel room!

laclaire

I work for the MACBA, which is in the heart of the Raval, and when I was in the office, I had a window that looked directly onto the plaza. When I started there my boss told me that I could park my bike inside the office, as they literally fly off the bike rack. And she was right. I could see the racks from my window and there were guys there with tools all the time. People of all ages sit around there smoking hash and some go behind the wall to shoot heroine (which I can see on the way to our bathroom).

As for theft, once summer started, not a day went by that I didn't either hear someone yelling "No no no!" while someone ran off with their camera/wallet/bag, or I saw some poor tourist sitting and crying because their things had been stolen. However, I have never once seen anything come to blows, nor have I ever seen anyone knocked down.

Claire

isabel

Ok, just have to wonder why so many people are mentioning the theft of cameras. And suggesting that if you don't want something stolen leave it in the hotel room. Well, obviously you can't do that with your camera. The whole point of bringing a camera is to take pictures which you can't do if it's sitting in your hotel. Obviously only a fool carries credit cards, money, passports, etc in a purse/backpack or back pocket. But what do you suggest for cameras?

hax

We loved Barcelona. The architecture is amazing. See everything Gaudi that you can--so interesting!
Even if you don't like museums The food is terrific, too, though we were there with teens, so we didn't do the high-end places, and there are a lot of them. The restaurant El Bulli (sp?) is not too far away-- the chef is world famous and the inspiration for Alinea in Chicago. But our favorite was a casual little spot near the Picasso museum called Cal Pep. It is small, so you have to get there when it opens (I think 1:30 for lunch and 8:00 or so for dinner) or you'll wait. You just take a seat at the counter, and the owner starts putting all this amazing fresh seafood in front of you--tiny squid, shrimp, so good! Plus they have the best dessert-a sampler of creme brulees. We went for lunch. LOVED it.
Did not like la Rambla. Very touristy. We had no problem with pickpockets, but we took cabs or walked everywhere (no trains) because we went the week after the Madrid bombings. Have fun!

Jaume

Hi. Barcelona is a great choice for you. I lived in Barcelona for a few months and I love it. Barcelona's nightlife is amazing. The whole city center is full of great night clubs, bars and pubs. You are a fan of food and wine? Try Catalan delicacies and wine. Go to eat a Paella... yummy! I can recommend a free city guide, which you can find under http://www.barcelonapoint.com with useful information about restaurants, festivals, sightseeings and more. Besides, you can find accommodation offers at discount prices. I'm sure you will like the city, situated near the mountains and the coast. You'll have a great time!

laclaire

Eating paella in Barcelona is a questionable idea. If you want the really good stuff, it is in Valencia and Alicante. I am always surprised by people who say they hated the paella, but then I find out that they ate it someplace outside of where it comes from. Those frozen paellas that they advertize on stand-up boards are horrible! However, there is a paella place (very expensive) up the Rambla de Catalunya (up from Plaza Catalunya, parallel to Pg de Gracia) called (I think) La Comarca (on the corner of Provenza) that is good.

Claire

wco81

So what are some signature Catalan dishes?

Tapas isn't Catalan is it?

I know cava is the local sparkling wine. Taken with anchovies (no thanks).

laclaire

Who eats anchovies with Cava? Not me! I prefer little sandwiches at the Champanyeria in the Barceloneta.

Catalan dishes: now until mid-April they have calcots (little roasted onions dipped in romesco sauce. . . I could eat them every day and when they are in season, I do).

pa amb tomaquet (bread with tomato) is the most typical.

Butifarra is a delicious white sausage.

Crema Catalana is like Creme Brulee, but more pudding-like. It is also a liquor that will knock you out in a very silky and delicious way.

Escudella is a typical soup that is wonderful, depending on who makes it.

Though not typically Catalan, sobrasada (a red, chorizo-like spread) menorquina is amazing and you can get good stuff there.

Bombas (like croquetas, but larger and with potato) are really good, and usually have brava sauce on them to spice it up.

Claire

Cokie1

Such interesting tangents this conversation has taken! Thanks again to everyone for their input. Noone has comments on the San Sebastion side trip yet. How long does it take to drive? Is it dangerous in the Basque region in the summer? I may start a new thread on that. Thanks again.
-Helene

artlover

I believe there's been much said in this forum re. paella. The best I've had so far was in a tiny town near the Hyatt in La Manga at a restaurant called Maribels and it had to be ordered 24 hours in advance. Any "ready made" paella probably won't make the grade.