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joannyc Sep 10th, 2009 11:58 PM

Padua - To See or Not to See? Or cut time in Venice?
 
Hi,

I'll be arriving in Venice on Sept 26 mid-afternoon (staying at the Marriott Courtyard by the airport so will be taking bus into Venice, will take boat once or twice for the 'experience'). Leaving for Florence on Sept. 30 sometime in the morning by rental car (please, no comments necessary on VCE rental car).

I'd love to go to Padua to see the Scrovegni Chapel and St. Anthony's Basilica .

But, it seems that I have found tooooooo many things to see in Venice.

Would you go to Padua? Since my Venice hotel is by the airport, I'd take the bus to Padua and then take the train back in the evening so I can have dinner in Venice before making my way back to the hotel.

If so, what would you cut out below?

Please don't tell me that the below agenda is too aggressive even if I don't go to Padua.... I know there will be things that I will cut and, maybe, I travel faster than you, ;-)

Accademia - IS THIS A MUST SEE? I will be seeing many museums during my trip and can get "museum'd out " after too many. Heading south from Venice to Florence (big museum seeing there), San G. (few hours stop), Siena (2 nights), Assisi (1 night), Orvieto (few hours stop), Sorretto (5 nights w/ day trips to Pompeii, Almalfi, Positano, Capri) and Rome (5 nights)


* Piazza San Marco
* Campanielle Bell Tower - Elevator to top
* Clock Tower (Torre dell 'Orologio)
* Doge's Palace (Palazzo Ducale - Secret Itineraries Tour and do halls on own after (halls included in SI admission)
* St. Mark's Basilica (Basilico di San Marco) - Also see Treasury (Tesoro), Golden Altarpiece (Pala d'Oro) and San Marco Museum and Galleria (for best view of basilica's interior)
* Bridge of Sighs and Prisons - see from SI Tour and from outside
* Grand Canal Cruise - Take #1 boat from Piazzale Roma San Marco via * Rialto boat, do around 4:30pm for best light, free with the transit pass
* Rialto Bridge - Shops and Market (fish and produce)
* Accademia - Go early or late to miss crowds, best art in first rooms so can leave whenever
* La Salute Church (Santa Maria della Salute)-Built by plague survivors
* Punta della Dogana, Dorsoduro
* San Giorgo Maggiore Church - Best view from it's tower- Elevator to top, no lines
The Last Supper and the Gathering of Manna, two of Tintoretto's later works, line the chancel. To the right of the entrance hangs The Adoration of the Shepherds . The monks are happy to show Carpaccio's St. George and the Dragon, hanging in a private room, if they have time" Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore
* Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari (Frari Church) - "Works by Donatello, Bellini and Titian
Also see Titian's grave, Chiase dei Frari"
* Campo dei Frari, San Polo
* Scuola Grande di San Rocco - Tintoretto's Sistene Chapel, best art is upstairs Next to Frari Church
* Church of San Zaccaria - Bellini altarpiece, eerie crypt of John the Baptist's father
* Jewish ghetto
* Ca' d'Oro House of gold, free peek thru hole in door of courtyard one of the most beautiful palazzi on the Grand Canal
* Burano Lace making island
* Le Fenice Opera House 45-min audioguide, 7 euros, 10am-5pm daily
* Diocesan Museum Cloister and museum
* C a' Rezzonico (Museo de Venice) Museum of 18c Venice, grand palazzzo (Dorsoduro), last home of Robt. Browning
* Torcello Island
* Wander thru Dorsoduro sestiere
* Santa Maria dei Miracoli - one of the most attractive religious buildings in Europe


Thanks!

kleeblatt Sep 11th, 2009 12:56 AM

I think Padua would make a nice day trip. It's not that far from Venice.

Saraho Sep 11th, 2009 01:23 AM

We did go to Padua and found that it took a frustrating amount of time. And the chapel was under restoration so part of it was blocked from viewing. There was also a time limit on viewing the chapel- maybe half an hour. So if you do decide to go, check to see how long you can actually see the chapel and whether it is still under restoration. I wouldn't go to Padua just to see St. Anthony's. There are so many great things to see in Venice that I probably would not spend a day outside of Venice on such a short trip there.

caroline_edinburgh Sep 11th, 2009 03:36 AM

We visited the Scrovegni Chapel last year and it was one of the highlights of our trip. *However*, that was as part of a 4 week trip, part of which included the 4th full week we've spent in Venice, and our 18th visit to Italy. With only 3 full days for your first visit to Venice (well, not even in Venice so you'll lose part of each day to travelling), I would not give up part of that time to visit Padua.

caroline_edinburgh Sep 11th, 2009 03:40 AM

Whoops, finger trouble. I was about to add that if you do decide the Scrovegni Chapel is worth missing at least part of a day in Venice for, the normal visit time is 20 minutes but you can book a double length slot in the evening (as we did). None of it was under restoration or blocked for viewing (this was the end of June 2009), although the usual chapel containing St Antony's tomb in the Basilica was in restauro so the tomb had been moved to a different chapel so it was still accessible.

isabel Sep 11th, 2009 04:06 AM

If you are driving to Florence when you leave Venice you could stop there for half a day on the way. You don't say how many nights you have in Florence.

I loved Padua, spent a whole week there a couple years ago, BUT I had already been to Venice twice before when I stayed IN Venice itself.

TDudette Sep 11th, 2009 05:27 AM

Double check about the need for reservations at Scrovegni-with the things you have on your list, your time in Venice will be packed. DH and I went to Padua a few years ago in March as a day trip from Venice (3/4 hour on train if memory serves) and were told Scrovegni was booked for weeks! Would it take you out of your way to book on the day you leave and just drive over? Otherwise the evening visit makes sense.

We have yet to go to Accademia because we always put it in the "visit if the weather sucks" category and have always had good weather! Just remember that churches especially will be closed during siesta hours.

Have a great trip!

adrienne Sep 11th, 2009 05:35 AM

The Scrovegni Chapel is magnificent. I went before it was restored when you could walk in w/o reservations. The timed tickets are for 15 minutes but you have to be there about 1/2 hour ahead to sit in an antichamber. The details are on the web site. Try to fit this in. Good idea to do it on the way out of Venice.

From your list I particularly enjoyed Ca' Rezzonico (better than Ca' d'Oro) and Santa Maria dei Miracoli. I thought San Rocco was dark and hard to see the paintings.

Burano and Torcello will take most of a day to get there and back and wander around so you might want to put these islands at the end of your priority list.

Of course the things around St. Mark's are a must see as is the Vaporetto ride on the grand canal (I would also do it at night to see the lights).

Paul1950 Sep 11th, 2009 06:13 AM

Not enough time in Venice as it is. Make Padua another time, or see it on the day you go to Florence.

sacc Sep 11th, 2009 10:28 AM

How much do you love art?

If it's truly important to you, the Srovegni Chapel is absolutely breath-taking. The "double-turn" ticket available in the evenings, after 7 p.m., is a fantastic way to see the chapel. You get a full 40 minutes in the chapel which is packed with Giotto's magnificent frescos. It's also only a few minutes' walk from the train station. I was there in June and it was a highlight of my trip. There is also a great audio-visual centre with some wonderful information on the history of the chapel and of Giotto's works.

And the Baptistery, in the centre of the city near the Duomo, also has some gorgeous Giotto frescos.

Still, unless you really, really love art, Padova might be one item too many on your already packed agenda. If you really do want to go, it might make sense to book the evening double-turn ticket and stay in Venice until late afternoon, then go to Padua.

tarquin Sep 11th, 2009 11:32 AM

The Scrovegni Chapel is fabulous, as are the food market area and the Caffe Pedrocchi, but with your very inconvenient hotel location, you will already be wasting valuable Venice time in transit everyday.

mes2525 Sep 11th, 2009 12:39 PM

I like the church of San Antonio of Padua very much but with only 3-1/2 days and with all the sights to see in Venice, I'm not sure if the investment of time in seeing the Scrovegni and the church are in the time frame Another great day trip from Venice is Vicenza which has wonderful Palladio architecture.

yestravel Sep 11th, 2009 01:32 PM

The Scrovegni Chapel is incredible. One of the highlights of my many trips to Italy. We did the double turn in the evening and it was great esp during the time the groups turn over and u are in the chapel all by yourself. If u decide to go to the Chapel defintiely make reservations. We had reservations and wanted to adjust our time, so went out there that day and everything was solidly booked. This was in April.
I did not think St Anthony's would be worth a special trip to Padua.

All that said, there is so much to see in Venice and some of the fun is sitting in cafes, wandering the canals and getting lost which we do whether we intend to or not. I also love the Peggy Guggenheim Museum in Venice and would add that. You have only 3 days in Venice and if you're coming from the States you'll be jetlagged the first day no doubt. Given that I would not take time away from your very limited time in Venice. Just go back to Italy another time

joannyc Sep 11th, 2009 09:08 PM

Thank you all for your replies!

While my hotel is out at the airport area, from what I read, there are 2 buses per hour and it only takes 20 min. to get to P. Roma where the vaporetta is close by.... am I missing something? Why do you think that I am located in an 'inconvenient' area? I don't go back to my hotel during the day or evening... I leave in the morning and go back at night to go to bed. Seems to me that a free hotel (using points) is worth a 20 min. bus ride!

Anyway, back to the main point of my posting... I do like 2 of the options mentioned:

* Stopping at Padua on my way to Florence. I can change the pickup time of the car to an earlier time by an hour or two which will give me time to see the Scrovegni Chapel and St. Anthony's, Oratory of St. George while skipping the rest of Padua. Would like to see the rest but Florence beckons too!

* Also like the idea of going to Padua in late afternoon, can still see St. Anthony's, Oratory of St. George, and the Scrovegni Chapel. Markets will be closed but that's the way life goes...I've seen many markets in many countries.

I don't plan to return to Italy any time soon, if at all. I try to do the areas that interest me during a 3 week stay unless the country is too large then I'll make multiple trips. IMO, there are too many countries that I want to see and I'm not getting any younger... next year may be central Spain, or Northern Spain, or the south of France, or Russia and the Ukraine, or China, or this could go on and on and on!

Andrew Sep 11th, 2009 09:51 PM

joannyc: <i>While my hotel is out at the airport area, from what I read, there are 2 buses per hour and it only takes 20 min. to get to P. Roma where the vaporetta is close by.... am I missing something? Why do you think that I am located in an 'inconvenient' area? I don't go back to my hotel during the day or evening... I leave in the morning and go back at night to go to bed. Seems to me that a free hotel (using points) is worth a 20 min. bus ride!</i>

Why would you want to stay on Venice rather than take a bus to/from a hotel on the mainland? Because the BEST part of Venice, in my opinion, is walking around in the evening or early in the morning, after the hordes of tour groups have gone home. While Venice is an amazing place to visit, during the day it's horribly overcrowded.

It's really hard to do that spontaneous early morning stroll along the canals before breakfast if your hotel is 20+ minutes away. You won't do it. And when you're walking around late at night on Venice, you'll be wondering how late the buses run, if you hustle you can catch the next bus or there won't be one for another hour...so you won't stay as late. And you'll miss what I consider my favorite memories of my first trip to Venice.

Yes, some people don't need to go back to the hotel during the day. Me? I walk far and fast, and I'm often carrying a heavy camera and perhaps a tripod. And you do a ton of walking in Venice. I think this is one place where it's really nice to be near enough to your lodgings that you can go back during the day.

FYI, I'll be visiting Venice the same time you will be but only for a few days. I've got a small apartment in Cannaregio (stayed there once before) for about $100US per night. I probably wouldn't go back to Venice unless I could stay on Venice itself, because during the day it's not so fun wandering around.

(I'm using my hotel points in Zagreb...)

Andrew Sep 11th, 2009 09:54 PM

As for Padua...I too did a day trip there. It was worth seeing for sure, but unless the Scrovegni Chapel is of great interest to you, I'd first make sure I visited all the things on my Venice list before diverting to Padua. And maybe you can stop on the way to Florence for a few hours anyway...

joannyc Sep 11th, 2009 10:27 PM

Andrew,

I'm not a person that will be up and roaming the streets at 6am! Heck, I probably won't get out of bed until 7 or 8am! This is vacation and I'm getting up early. So, you won't find me on the streets in the early morning! You can enjoy them on your own! :-)

I will still be in 'Venice' in the evenings and night. And, I really think that by 10pm or so... I'll be ready to go back to the hotel.

I don't carry anything heavy that I need to drop at the hotel.

And, I use points on all my vacations... this year I will only pay for 3 nights (Siena and Assisi) out of 21 nights in Italy with free airfare.

Paul1950 Sep 12th, 2009 03:32 AM

Do keep in mind that a 20-minute bus ride does not mean that you'll get from your hotel into historic Venice in just 20 minutes. You have to get to the bus stop, wait for the bus, then take the 20 minute ride, then walk from the bus stop into Venice. That's at least an hour out of your waking hours each day--probably a bit more.

That said, if you can't afford to pay for a hotel in Venice proper and the airport hotel doesn't cost you anything, then it's better than not being able to visit Venice at all.

For me, my time is vastly more important than any money I might save, but for others who don't have much money, using free hotel points in a less convenient location could be the only way they can afford to visit Venice.

caroline_edinburgh Sep 12th, 2009 03:54 AM

"I'd first make sure I visited all the things on my Venice list before diverting to Padua" LOL ! We've so far spent 4 full weeks in Venice and haven't yet done all the things on the OP's list :-)

jjkbrook Sep 12th, 2009 07:07 PM

My feeling is that if you care about art or are a Christian,the Scrovegni chapel frescos are a tremendous thrill to see, as human expression creeps back into the faces, and postures of the figures after centuries of the byzantine freeze. There is a little Giotto in Santa Croce in Florence, but its heavily damaged, and the Giottos in Assisi are disappointing. Do book ahead or you will be out of luck. We drove to Padua along the Brenta one year on our way out of Venice and visited one of the villas along the way, which was charming, but the drive itself was not. I dont know how long your bus is scheduled to take, but the train is quick, Id definitely take it back.

As I recall its a fair walk along a busy street to the St. Anthony Basilica. We particularly noticed this after the peace and carlessness of Venice. It is impressive and the equestrian statue outside is a great one.

I can understand why you are not staying in Venice, but staying in Venice makes it less like a theme park to visit and more like a place where you are experiencing the daily life. I really enjoyed that latter aspect - you will too, but it will be less intense. Remember that Venetians walk more than they take vaporetti so sometimes walk from Piazzale Roma into the city to see different area each morning. For example walk to the Accademia one morning through Dorsoduro and Campo Sta Margherita . You can then easily see the Salute, etc.

Or head toward the Rialto and check out the Frari/Piazza San Polo on the way. Stop at Tonolos for a pastry and coffee to perk you up.

Re the Lagoon islands, it depends on your interest. You can satisfy a desire for boat rides by visiting San Giorgio or taking the fast vaporetti that go down the Giudecca canal, rather than around the grand canal. We liked the feeling of Torcello very much, and the ancient church, but there is literally nothing else there. There is a old church with interesting architecture on Murano as well, and we liked walking the island (the glass factories did not attract), but end the end its a lesser version of Venice, and Burano is also lesser, a longish boat ride for not much.


the accademia is a relatively small museum with a couple of must-see rooms. I would recommend it over San Rocco for sure Titian and Bellini beat Tintoretto every time.

Some of your sights will take literally 5 minutes to see, the Miracoli (beautiful but empty) for example, the Punta Dogana, passing by on the boat is enuf. I dont think you have too much on your itinerary at all, but would just lay back a little.
Id recommend walking around Venice and stopping into churches that are NOT on your list over some of the minor items, like the treasure in the Duomo which is not worth the bucks.

Good luck, and enjoy the Italian visit.
I cant resist on the Venice car pickup - unless you have plans to stop en route, the train to Florence is quicker, and you could delay your car pickup and related expense by several days if you waited. There ive said it.


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