Packed our bags today preflight; Rocket salad-ing thru Florence,Rome&Paris
Nov 1st, 2011, 07:43 AM
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This past Wednesday was our first full day in Florence. After our wonderful sunrise, we came back and showered in our apartment. Last time in Italy I wrote a report about how many ways you could flush Italian toilets and the shower arrangements are just as varied. Ours is a full bathtub and a couple of louvered glass doors that enclose around you to make a shower designed to fit one toddler or two Olsen twins. I'm thinking about taking out a patent on some sort of shower tool belt to hold your shampoo, razor, soap, etc. because there is no place inside that enclosure to put anything. Shower sash? Tubby tool? Thoughts? God forbid you drop something - the bathroom itself then becomes the whole shower. All the more reason for really great baths everyday instead!
First stop of our rainy day in Florence was the Uffizi. We had been there in the summer a few years back and I swear in some of the more popular rooms, if you passed out, you wouldn't hit the floor as you are shoulder to shoulder with a million people. We were looking forward to less crowds. Before we left LA, we did two things - we found the Friends of the Uffizi website, joined at 50 euros a piece and got really artsy credit card-like passes in the mail that allowed us to visit not only the Uffizi but the Accademia, Palazzo Pitti, Bargello and about 10 other places for a whole year. You get to bypass all the lines and they have a welcome office at door #2 for any questions you might have. You also get a discount on performances at Teatro Comunale and Teatro Verdi. It is different than the Firenze pass so one might work better for you than the other. http://www.amicidegliuffizi.it/en_home.aspx
We also found a really cool iphone app called Uffizi Touch. It allows you to access all of the masterpieces in high resolution, tells you what room they are in and then gives you information on each piece as you find them. I believe it costs around $11.00.
So much has been written about the Uffizi not only by Fodorites but other guidebooks and sites so I won't go into too much detail other that to say how stunning it is and to walk slowly down the giant halls before you go into each room as there is so much to see there as well. Among my favorites is Caravaggio's Medusa - truly one scary ass pissed off snaked headed Gorgon who realizes her head was just chopped off by the Macguyver of his time, Perseus. If you feel weary, head to the cafe for a glass of wine or Acqua Frizzante. My husband's favorite is the ice cream accompanied by a small pitcher of whiskey - takes the edge off of your tired feet every time.
After the Uffizi, we headed back to the 'hood for lunch at Trattoria Marione. Old time Italian hang where on day number two and still struggling with jet lag, we stupidly thought we could easily have a bottle of wine at lunch and remain upright. Our wine was accompanied by Ribollita soup which is really much more like salty cheesy bread pudding and on a rainy day, delicious. We followed with rocket salad number two with beef carpacchio instead of Bresaola. Giovanni still has the edge. Marione's was a little too spicy and tough. Trattoria Marione Via Della Spada #27.
After a nap that felt like we were administered propofol (too soon?), we downed a couple of Coca Lights and headed to a cooking class. Italy Perfect had it as a recommendation and although I did some research back in the States and reached out to a couple of other choices, I never heard back from either so we went with In Tavola.
http://www.intavola.org/. It's across the Arno from the city center and down a small street. In Tavola boasts two kitchen areas - one as you just walk in that has four tables/cooking areas and then another one up some steps. We were with 23 other people in the lower kitchen. I fancy myself a pretty good cook and was looking forward to improving my skills with Italian food. Our little Iron chef group consisted of me, my husband, a mother and daughter from Ohio and a young girl from Hong Kong. All of whom admitted they don't really spend much time in the kitchen. No prob, I'm there it help it along if necessary. Our first task was to separate whites from yolks for some Tiramisu. Something I've done a million times and they never had. So of course, I humbly said I would show them. Of all the 23 people who had to separate eggs, the only one who made a debacle of it was me. Our chef Silvio looked at us with disappointed eyes and then decided his other little group warranted more of his time the rest of the evening. After our slow start we kicked ass with Vegetable Millefoglie (eggplant towers with potatoes, zucchini and parmesan), Crespelle (crepes) with veal, carrots and Marsala wine - the most fun of the evening as we all sucked at flipping them, Pollo alla Contadina (chicken fried with a balsamic glaze) and then our tiramisu. We took our food and ate in the wine cellar where we then had wine along with our food. It dawned on me that my cooking skills are better if I START with wine.
I am not sure what I was expecting. We had fun but 23 people are too many for just two chefs. It is always interesting to sit and chat with other travelers though. The daughter from Ohio is in Florence because her life long goal is to travel to every Hard Rock cafe around the world and collect their pins. The mother is here to recall the fond memories she shared with her recently departed husband and the young girl from Hong Kong had just quit her job and decided to travel alone for a month in Italy at the age of 23 speaking mainly only Chinese. Very brave of her. We all love to travel but it's fascinating to find out the many different reasons why. I give In Tavola a 3 out of 5 and would love to hear from the rest of you if you have a better cooking experience elsewhere.
Next: the long and winding road to Michelangelo Piazalle and rocket salad number 3 with Sting and Dustin Hoffman at Trattoria Quattro Leone....
First stop of our rainy day in Florence was the Uffizi. We had been there in the summer a few years back and I swear in some of the more popular rooms, if you passed out, you wouldn't hit the floor as you are shoulder to shoulder with a million people. We were looking forward to less crowds. Before we left LA, we did two things - we found the Friends of the Uffizi website, joined at 50 euros a piece and got really artsy credit card-like passes in the mail that allowed us to visit not only the Uffizi but the Accademia, Palazzo Pitti, Bargello and about 10 other places for a whole year. You get to bypass all the lines and they have a welcome office at door #2 for any questions you might have. You also get a discount on performances at Teatro Comunale and Teatro Verdi. It is different than the Firenze pass so one might work better for you than the other. http://www.amicidegliuffizi.it/en_home.aspx
We also found a really cool iphone app called Uffizi Touch. It allows you to access all of the masterpieces in high resolution, tells you what room they are in and then gives you information on each piece as you find them. I believe it costs around $11.00.
So much has been written about the Uffizi not only by Fodorites but other guidebooks and sites so I won't go into too much detail other that to say how stunning it is and to walk slowly down the giant halls before you go into each room as there is so much to see there as well. Among my favorites is Caravaggio's Medusa - truly one scary ass pissed off snaked headed Gorgon who realizes her head was just chopped off by the Macguyver of his time, Perseus. If you feel weary, head to the cafe for a glass of wine or Acqua Frizzante. My husband's favorite is the ice cream accompanied by a small pitcher of whiskey - takes the edge off of your tired feet every time.
After the Uffizi, we headed back to the 'hood for lunch at Trattoria Marione. Old time Italian hang where on day number two and still struggling with jet lag, we stupidly thought we could easily have a bottle of wine at lunch and remain upright. Our wine was accompanied by Ribollita soup which is really much more like salty cheesy bread pudding and on a rainy day, delicious. We followed with rocket salad number two with beef carpacchio instead of Bresaola. Giovanni still has the edge. Marione's was a little too spicy and tough. Trattoria Marione Via Della Spada #27.
After a nap that felt like we were administered propofol (too soon?), we downed a couple of Coca Lights and headed to a cooking class. Italy Perfect had it as a recommendation and although I did some research back in the States and reached out to a couple of other choices, I never heard back from either so we went with In Tavola.
http://www.intavola.org/. It's across the Arno from the city center and down a small street. In Tavola boasts two kitchen areas - one as you just walk in that has four tables/cooking areas and then another one up some steps. We were with 23 other people in the lower kitchen. I fancy myself a pretty good cook and was looking forward to improving my skills with Italian food. Our little Iron chef group consisted of me, my husband, a mother and daughter from Ohio and a young girl from Hong Kong. All of whom admitted they don't really spend much time in the kitchen. No prob, I'm there it help it along if necessary. Our first task was to separate whites from yolks for some Tiramisu. Something I've done a million times and they never had. So of course, I humbly said I would show them. Of all the 23 people who had to separate eggs, the only one who made a debacle of it was me. Our chef Silvio looked at us with disappointed eyes and then decided his other little group warranted more of his time the rest of the evening. After our slow start we kicked ass with Vegetable Millefoglie (eggplant towers with potatoes, zucchini and parmesan), Crespelle (crepes) with veal, carrots and Marsala wine - the most fun of the evening as we all sucked at flipping them, Pollo alla Contadina (chicken fried with a balsamic glaze) and then our tiramisu. We took our food and ate in the wine cellar where we then had wine along with our food. It dawned on me that my cooking skills are better if I START with wine.
I am not sure what I was expecting. We had fun but 23 people are too many for just two chefs. It is always interesting to sit and chat with other travelers though. The daughter from Ohio is in Florence because her life long goal is to travel to every Hard Rock cafe around the world and collect their pins. The mother is here to recall the fond memories she shared with her recently departed husband and the young girl from Hong Kong had just quit her job and decided to travel alone for a month in Italy at the age of 23 speaking mainly only Chinese. Very brave of her. We all love to travel but it's fascinating to find out the many different reasons why. I give In Tavola a 3 out of 5 and would love to hear from the rest of you if you have a better cooking experience elsewhere.
Next: the long and winding road to Michelangelo Piazalle and rocket salad number 3 with Sting and Dustin Hoffman at Trattoria Quattro Leone....
Nov 1st, 2011, 02:22 PM
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Oh my word, are you sure we are not best friends in real life? You remind me of the bloggess... and in my world, that is a huge compliment. 
I have only been to Italy once and really wanted to take a cooking class. Like you, I am better with a little wine... better at almost everything (except driving). (and not too early for the propofol comment either!)
I have only been to Italy once and really wanted to take a cooking class. Like you, I am better with a little wine... better at almost everything (except driving). (and not too early for the propofol comment either!)
Nov 9th, 2011, 07:20 AM
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When I start reading a trip report and end laughing, smiling and nodding my head in agreement, I know it's going to be a good one. Looking forward to reading more!
And...I'll be flying in the Air France Premier Voyager seats in a few weeks, it was nice to get a real preview! ;-)
And...I'll be flying in the Air France Premier Voyager seats in a few weeks, it was nice to get a real preview! ;-)
Nov 9th, 2011, 08:21 AM
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This might explain the "rocket salad" confusion.
In a Naples restaurant recently:
Neighbouring, Americophone, table, struggling over menu: "Do you speak English?"
Waitress: "Of course" (Bollocks. Few Italian waiters do, but...)
Table. "So what's insalata di rucola?"
Waitress. "Rocket salad"
Table, with incredulity: "You eat rockets?"
Us, helpfully "You call it arugula"
Table: "But she said she speaks English"
Mrs F, knowing I'm about to say "She does: you don't", ministers firm, admonitory, kick to right calf. I content myself with brief lecture to waitress, in Italian so as not to discomfort neighbouring table, on dialects.
In a Naples restaurant recently:
Neighbouring, Americophone, table, struggling over menu: "Do you speak English?"
Waitress: "Of course" (Bollocks. Few Italian waiters do, but...)
Table. "So what's insalata di rucola?"
Waitress. "Rocket salad"
Table, with incredulity: "You eat rockets?"
Us, helpfully "You call it arugula"
Table: "But she said she speaks English"
Mrs F, knowing I'm about to say "She does: you don't", ministers firm, admonitory, kick to right calf. I content myself with brief lecture to waitress, in Italian so as not to discomfort neighbouring table, on dialects.
Nov 15th, 2011, 01:19 PM
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Hi all -
Thanks for your patience and kind remarks. We just returned home from our amazing trip and in spite of my good intentions to write more while I was there, Chianti, Michelangelo and the Italian countryside pulled me away. Lots more to come!
Thanks for your patience and kind remarks. We just returned home from our amazing trip and in spite of my good intentions to write more while I was there, Chianti, Michelangelo and the Italian countryside pulled me away. Lots more to come!
Nov 29th, 2011, 03:36 PM
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Another day, another rocket salad! We once again got up early, took our half showers and stopped by the local bakery (Forno Top, 23 Via della Spada) for some bread, bought some eggs and salami and made our first breakfast at the apartment as the cacophony of delivery trucks argued below us. We were ready to hit the streets of Florence. Someone on this forum had mentioned a restaurant/market called ZEB so we decided to go in search of it. First down Tornabuoni and let me say this about Florentinians; no matter how many fancy ways I tie my scarves or bust out my knee hi boots and sling my cool purse over my shoulder, I will never ever look like anything but an American. (Not that there is any problem with that but when travelling, it’s sort of nice to blend in a little) The men, the women and yes, even the toddlers look liked they stepped off of an Armani or Dolce & Gabbana runway. The concept of layering had to have begun here. When I layer, I just look thick. They look stunning. Plaids with stripes, browns with blacks, purple socks and yellow ties. Even teenage boys wear uber cool scarves with not one hint of self-consciousness. My teenage son would have to be retracing the Amundsen- Scott trail to the South Pole before he wore a scarf.
Anyhow, across the Arno we go, head down Via S. Jacopo and 20 minutes later, we find ZEB. Sort of cool, but since we had just arrived, we were still in Florence - old school mode, not new. Maybe we will revisit. But we did see a sign for a panini shop just beyond a huge arched wall so we headed up the hill. And there it was, amongst the trees. A stairway that just went up and up, so we climbed not really knowing where we were going but it was such a beautiful day, we just kept climbing. Along one side of the stairs were wooden crosses- I’m sure they were some sort of stations of the cross but I believe they were strategically placed so that monks and priests could catch their breath on their way up. I told my husband I needed to “meditate” a little at each station. I don’t think he really bought it but it was better than the gasping sounds coming from behind him on the way up. We also stopped at Giardino di Rose halfway – a beautiful garden with sculptures by Belgian artist, Jean-Michel Folon. Finally we made it to the top and there we were – staring out at the panoramic scenes from “Room with a View” at the Piazalle Michelangelo overlooking the entire city of Florence. It is magnificent and really gives you the full scope of the city that you don’t really get from anywhere else. Yes, you can take a bus or car up there but it was truly wonderful to just discover it on our own. I really felt like we had arrived.
We hung out and then made our way down the hill in search of lunch. We settled on Trattoria Quattro Leone. The minute we walked in, we were taken to the back room of all English speakers even though my husband spoke to them in Italian when we walked in. I really didn’t care since we were pretty wiped for our unexpected hike and it was sort of peaceful. We ate an Insalata 4 Leone, which was a modified rocket salad that included avocado and pine nuts – quite tasty, and then we also had a trio of their most popular pastas, which included a fresh asparagus sauce, a pomodoro sauce and a type of arrabbiata sauce. Really delicious and we didn’t feel stuffed when we left. We sat under pictures of Sting and Dustin Hoffman who must have been shuttled back there as well for their lack of Italian language skills or maybe the pictures were there to somehow make us feel more comfortable with people we might recognize. I would like to think that as one Fodorite mentioned, it is just easier to have all of the English-speaking people in one place for the waiter who is fluent. This phenomenon is much more noticeable in Florence than in a big city like Rome and what are ya gonna do, insist in your broken Italian that there must be some mistake, you really do deserve a shot at the locals section of the restaurant? It’s the same good food – we ate and drank and had a great time. Trattoria Quattro Leone http://www.4leoni.com/index.php.
On the way down the hill from the Piazalle, we had spotted a grocery store that we headed back to at Via d’Bardi 45 near the Ponte Vecchio. It’s called Sapori & Dintorni by Conad (quite the mouthful when you throw Dove in front of it). It’s a an upscale supermarket with a great produce, cheese, bread and wine selection as well as staples you might need. A small tip here in case you didn’t already know: with produce, you must weigh and tag it before you get to the checkout counter. Believe me, it will save you lots of time and aggravation to remember it. The directions at the machine are pretty straightforward and it helps you add to your vocabulary when you see the pictures with the names of the fruits and veggies in Italian. We bought a little bit of everything, including some gorgeous flowers they sell right outside the door and headed back to the apartment for a 1 hour 3 hour nap. Our nightly serenade of accordion music awakened us outside our window and we spiffed up to meet some friends at dinner at Trattoria Cammillo. First BIG lesson learned in travel to Italy and France. DON’T ORDER COCKTAILS…EVER. Stick with wine. We met our friends at the Lungarno where they were staying and thought we’d have a quick martini before heading to the restaurant. Our quick martinis and gimlets cost us 100 Euros! Yes, we were at a high end hotel and yes, we asked for a premium vodka and yes, I know cocktails in the US have gone up quite a bit in the last few years. But seriously, 100 Euros for 4 drinks made me choke on my “free” potato chips. And quite frankly, unless you’re in a big city, most bartenders are cocktail challenged if you order something slightly tricky. I actually made my own vodka gimlets at a couple of bars we went to when I just couldn’t drink another glass of wine. I know to save my high end drinking for Coca Light when I need a caffeine fix.
Dinner was really good – pici pasta with shaved fresh artichoke, pepper steak and great wine all under 100 Euros! And our first gelato of the trip back over the river at Grom. Trattoria Cammillo – Borgo S. Jacopo 57 +39 055 212427 . Grom – Via Del Campanile. After Grom, we sat in the virtually empty piazza around the Duomo at midnight and it is just overwhelming to think of the time and effort that it took to complete this magnificent structure. Was Brunelleschi overseeing the firing of tiles on a chilly November midnight for the Dome back in the 1400’s? How many people since then have stared up at it in wonder like me?
Next: Pop quiz – Which took longer? The building of Ghiberti baptistry doors or me climbing 463 steps to the top of the Dome?? And Rocket salad with Florentine steak the size of a coffee table…
Anyhow, across the Arno we go, head down Via S. Jacopo and 20 minutes later, we find ZEB. Sort of cool, but since we had just arrived, we were still in Florence - old school mode, not new. Maybe we will revisit. But we did see a sign for a panini shop just beyond a huge arched wall so we headed up the hill. And there it was, amongst the trees. A stairway that just went up and up, so we climbed not really knowing where we were going but it was such a beautiful day, we just kept climbing. Along one side of the stairs were wooden crosses- I’m sure they were some sort of stations of the cross but I believe they were strategically placed so that monks and priests could catch their breath on their way up. I told my husband I needed to “meditate” a little at each station. I don’t think he really bought it but it was better than the gasping sounds coming from behind him on the way up. We also stopped at Giardino di Rose halfway – a beautiful garden with sculptures by Belgian artist, Jean-Michel Folon. Finally we made it to the top and there we were – staring out at the panoramic scenes from “Room with a View” at the Piazalle Michelangelo overlooking the entire city of Florence. It is magnificent and really gives you the full scope of the city that you don’t really get from anywhere else. Yes, you can take a bus or car up there but it was truly wonderful to just discover it on our own. I really felt like we had arrived.
We hung out and then made our way down the hill in search of lunch. We settled on Trattoria Quattro Leone. The minute we walked in, we were taken to the back room of all English speakers even though my husband spoke to them in Italian when we walked in. I really didn’t care since we were pretty wiped for our unexpected hike and it was sort of peaceful. We ate an Insalata 4 Leone, which was a modified rocket salad that included avocado and pine nuts – quite tasty, and then we also had a trio of their most popular pastas, which included a fresh asparagus sauce, a pomodoro sauce and a type of arrabbiata sauce. Really delicious and we didn’t feel stuffed when we left. We sat under pictures of Sting and Dustin Hoffman who must have been shuttled back there as well for their lack of Italian language skills or maybe the pictures were there to somehow make us feel more comfortable with people we might recognize. I would like to think that as one Fodorite mentioned, it is just easier to have all of the English-speaking people in one place for the waiter who is fluent. This phenomenon is much more noticeable in Florence than in a big city like Rome and what are ya gonna do, insist in your broken Italian that there must be some mistake, you really do deserve a shot at the locals section of the restaurant? It’s the same good food – we ate and drank and had a great time. Trattoria Quattro Leone http://www.4leoni.com/index.php.
On the way down the hill from the Piazalle, we had spotted a grocery store that we headed back to at Via d’Bardi 45 near the Ponte Vecchio. It’s called Sapori & Dintorni by Conad (quite the mouthful when you throw Dove in front of it). It’s a an upscale supermarket with a great produce, cheese, bread and wine selection as well as staples you might need. A small tip here in case you didn’t already know: with produce, you must weigh and tag it before you get to the checkout counter. Believe me, it will save you lots of time and aggravation to remember it. The directions at the machine are pretty straightforward and it helps you add to your vocabulary when you see the pictures with the names of the fruits and veggies in Italian. We bought a little bit of everything, including some gorgeous flowers they sell right outside the door and headed back to the apartment for a 1 hour 3 hour nap. Our nightly serenade of accordion music awakened us outside our window and we spiffed up to meet some friends at dinner at Trattoria Cammillo. First BIG lesson learned in travel to Italy and France. DON’T ORDER COCKTAILS…EVER. Stick with wine. We met our friends at the Lungarno where they were staying and thought we’d have a quick martini before heading to the restaurant. Our quick martinis and gimlets cost us 100 Euros! Yes, we were at a high end hotel and yes, we asked for a premium vodka and yes, I know cocktails in the US have gone up quite a bit in the last few years. But seriously, 100 Euros for 4 drinks made me choke on my “free” potato chips. And quite frankly, unless you’re in a big city, most bartenders are cocktail challenged if you order something slightly tricky. I actually made my own vodka gimlets at a couple of bars we went to when I just couldn’t drink another glass of wine. I know to save my high end drinking for Coca Light when I need a caffeine fix.
Dinner was really good – pici pasta with shaved fresh artichoke, pepper steak and great wine all under 100 Euros! And our first gelato of the trip back over the river at Grom. Trattoria Cammillo – Borgo S. Jacopo 57 +39 055 212427 . Grom – Via Del Campanile. After Grom, we sat in the virtually empty piazza around the Duomo at midnight and it is just overwhelming to think of the time and effort that it took to complete this magnificent structure. Was Brunelleschi overseeing the firing of tiles on a chilly November midnight for the Dome back in the 1400’s? How many people since then have stared up at it in wonder like me?
Next: Pop quiz – Which took longer? The building of Ghiberti baptistry doors or me climbing 463 steps to the top of the Dome?? And Rocket salad with Florentine steak the size of a coffee table…
Nov 29th, 2011, 05:15 PM
#39
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I think I mentioned ZEB. Definitely give it a try but I get your point about liking the older places when you first get there. Had to laugh about the cocktails - I had a 20 Euro scotch on the rocks in Milan once that made me stick to wine after that. Keep it coming!!! And I LOVE Grom - one of the best gelato places in Florence.
Nov 30th, 2011, 06:04 AM
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I agree about Grom gelato. For any New Yorkers reading this, there is a GROM in my neighorhood on the Upper West Side on Broadway between 76th and 77th St.It has become my go to place for really delicious gelato.
