Our unforgettable trip to Paris and Rome - Some questions answered and some lessons learned
Mar 29th, 2007, 04:59 PM
#22
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We were in Paris-Florence-Rome March 11-27. Lulled into complacency by the 8 days of glorious weather when we arrived. Then we hit that bad patch -- deafening hail-storm in Rome the day of our arrival (March 20), followed by wet, blustery weather for a fair bit.
That, as they say, totally sucked.
Redeemed in toto by the sun and warm weather that followed -- sorry to tell you but the days after your departure (March 25, 26, 27) were heavenly in Rome. Will post details on an already commenced trip report/ posting....
That, as they say, totally sucked.
Redeemed in toto by the sun and warm weather that followed -- sorry to tell you but the days after your departure (March 25, 26, 27) were heavenly in Rome. Will post details on an already commenced trip report/ posting....
Mar 29th, 2007, 05:32 PM
#23
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Day 4
After an early breakfast, we head downstairs to wait for our taxi. This was pre-arranged by our apartment owner for 45 euros, and his name is Jean-Jacques. I just love saying that name! We’re glad to have the car, as it’s freezing and rainy this morning, and it begins to snow on our way to the airport.
We really don’t have clothes for this weather, we’re from Florida! The boys have 1 long-sleeve shirt, the rest short sleeves, a hoodie and a light waterproof jacket. However, GS 1 didn’t try on his jacket before he left home and the sleeves are a little short, so he won’t wear it. No amount of threats or begging can convince him, so he just wears the hoodie and freezes. For the entire trip. Stubborn!
Our flight is delayed about 30 minutes by bad weather somewhere - Rome? We’re picked up at the airport by Romeshuttlelimousine.com for 35 euros. It’s a WILD ride into town - the boys can’t look, and GS 1 says he doesn’t “enjoy almost dying every 10 seconds.” Welcome to Roma.
Our apartment is on Via dei Cappellari, just off Campo di Fiori. We rented it through sleepinitaly.com. The market has closed for the day and there’s trash and debris all over the square, it’s cold and rainy and dark. And there’s BRUNO looming over the Campo like the Grim Reaper. A somber welcome, to be sure. As we walk down our tiny lane, the cobbles in the street appear grouted with cigarette butts. The boys seem a little dismayed, they don't know quite what to make of this.
At our apartment, we’re met by the owner’s husband, who has no idea how anything works, where anything is, he’s just there because the wife is ill. It’s a good-size place, with a living room in the front, a dining room beyond, with small antique kitchen on the side, an adequate bathroom off the dining room, and a huge bedroom in the back. The bedroom has a king-size bed and a sleeper sofa, plus a small round game table and 2 chairs. We decide to let the boys have the bedroom, and we’ll take the futon in the living room. Actually, once again, the beds are all very comfortable, and I find the place quite charming.
We put our things down and head off to the Despar grocery several blocks away. What an experience - the entire store is the size of two rooms in my house, practically. I have a hard time figuring out what anything is and send the boys searching for chips, cokes, crackers and such while we do the rest. Hey, red wine is only 1.60 euros here - FABULOUS! We get several frozen meals for dinners, lasagna and manicotti, and head out. It’s raining hard now and we’re soaked when we get home.
There’s no microwave and no conventional oven that I can find, but there’s this ancient-looking contraption on the counter that looks like it could be some sort of oven, or broiler, or something that heats up. So, I start the lasagna, as I’m sure it will take forever in this thing. It makes a terrible grinding sound the whole time, that’s weird. Meanwhile, we need some underwear and socks washed, and the kitchen actually has a washing machine. We read the directions and try to put a few things in. Swish, swish, stop. Swish, swish, stop. This could take awhile.
We all sit at the dining table and begin to play some cards, and suddenly we’re in the dark - the power has gone out. We have no flashlight, no candles, no matches, NO PHONE! OK, we’re not going to panic. I grab my trip itinerary with all the phone numbers and run down into the street, searching for someplace open that has a friendly-looking person inside with a telephone. (Note here that the lesson learned is NEVER RENT AN APARTMENT WITHOUT GETTING A CELL PHONE). A few doors down, I see a tiny artist’s shop/studio and a young woman painting a ceramic pitcher at a desk that has a PHONE. With extensive hand language and minimal Italian, I ask if I can use her phono. I call the agency, they call the owner and he comes over in 10 or 15 minutes. He lifts up a painting on a wall to reveal a circuit breaker, resets it, looks at us with more than a little disdain and begins to leave. We detain him just long enough to ask why we can get only one snowy station on the TV, and the rest is static. He fools around with it for a minute, then says he’ll have to have it fixed but it will be next week before anyone can come out.
I attempt to heat the lasagna in a skillet, and we have our first meal in Italy - yuck! It’s pouring rain now, but the boys are getting bored so we walk to the Pantheon. It’s closed, but we admire it from the outside, underneath our pitiful umbrellas, and get our first gelatos. Now those are a definite hit! We’re cold and soaked when we get home, play cards awhile then hit the sack. It’s been an eventful day. I just hope the weather improves tomorrow.
After an early breakfast, we head downstairs to wait for our taxi. This was pre-arranged by our apartment owner for 45 euros, and his name is Jean-Jacques. I just love saying that name! We’re glad to have the car, as it’s freezing and rainy this morning, and it begins to snow on our way to the airport.
We really don’t have clothes for this weather, we’re from Florida! The boys have 1 long-sleeve shirt, the rest short sleeves, a hoodie and a light waterproof jacket. However, GS 1 didn’t try on his jacket before he left home and the sleeves are a little short, so he won’t wear it. No amount of threats or begging can convince him, so he just wears the hoodie and freezes. For the entire trip. Stubborn!
Our flight is delayed about 30 minutes by bad weather somewhere - Rome? We’re picked up at the airport by Romeshuttlelimousine.com for 35 euros. It’s a WILD ride into town - the boys can’t look, and GS 1 says he doesn’t “enjoy almost dying every 10 seconds.” Welcome to Roma.
Our apartment is on Via dei Cappellari, just off Campo di Fiori. We rented it through sleepinitaly.com. The market has closed for the day and there’s trash and debris all over the square, it’s cold and rainy and dark. And there’s BRUNO looming over the Campo like the Grim Reaper. A somber welcome, to be sure. As we walk down our tiny lane, the cobbles in the street appear grouted with cigarette butts. The boys seem a little dismayed, they don't know quite what to make of this.
At our apartment, we’re met by the owner’s husband, who has no idea how anything works, where anything is, he’s just there because the wife is ill. It’s a good-size place, with a living room in the front, a dining room beyond, with small antique kitchen on the side, an adequate bathroom off the dining room, and a huge bedroom in the back. The bedroom has a king-size bed and a sleeper sofa, plus a small round game table and 2 chairs. We decide to let the boys have the bedroom, and we’ll take the futon in the living room. Actually, once again, the beds are all very comfortable, and I find the place quite charming.
We put our things down and head off to the Despar grocery several blocks away. What an experience - the entire store is the size of two rooms in my house, practically. I have a hard time figuring out what anything is and send the boys searching for chips, cokes, crackers and such while we do the rest. Hey, red wine is only 1.60 euros here - FABULOUS! We get several frozen meals for dinners, lasagna and manicotti, and head out. It’s raining hard now and we’re soaked when we get home.
There’s no microwave and no conventional oven that I can find, but there’s this ancient-looking contraption on the counter that looks like it could be some sort of oven, or broiler, or something that heats up. So, I start the lasagna, as I’m sure it will take forever in this thing. It makes a terrible grinding sound the whole time, that’s weird. Meanwhile, we need some underwear and socks washed, and the kitchen actually has a washing machine. We read the directions and try to put a few things in. Swish, swish, stop. Swish, swish, stop. This could take awhile.
We all sit at the dining table and begin to play some cards, and suddenly we’re in the dark - the power has gone out. We have no flashlight, no candles, no matches, NO PHONE! OK, we’re not going to panic. I grab my trip itinerary with all the phone numbers and run down into the street, searching for someplace open that has a friendly-looking person inside with a telephone. (Note here that the lesson learned is NEVER RENT AN APARTMENT WITHOUT GETTING A CELL PHONE). A few doors down, I see a tiny artist’s shop/studio and a young woman painting a ceramic pitcher at a desk that has a PHONE. With extensive hand language and minimal Italian, I ask if I can use her phono. I call the agency, they call the owner and he comes over in 10 or 15 minutes. He lifts up a painting on a wall to reveal a circuit breaker, resets it, looks at us with more than a little disdain and begins to leave. We detain him just long enough to ask why we can get only one snowy station on the TV, and the rest is static. He fools around with it for a minute, then says he’ll have to have it fixed but it will be next week before anyone can come out.
I attempt to heat the lasagna in a skillet, and we have our first meal in Italy - yuck! It’s pouring rain now, but the boys are getting bored so we walk to the Pantheon. It’s closed, but we admire it from the outside, underneath our pitiful umbrellas, and get our first gelatos. Now those are a definite hit! We’re cold and soaked when we get home, play cards awhile then hit the sack. It’s been an eventful day. I just hope the weather improves tomorrow.
Mar 29th, 2007, 05:35 PM
#24
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OK, Tedgale, I really didn't need to hear about the fabulous weather after we left. I've been pretending that it's been horrendous even to this day, that it wasn't merely bad timing but was a LOOOOOOONG stretch of foul weather that could not possibly be avoided. Thanks!
Mar 29th, 2007, 06:19 PM
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Day 5
DH and I are up at 9, the boys are still sound asleep. We get dressed, have coffee and bread with nutella and walk to the Campo market. Just before we leave, we awaken the boys and tell them to eat breakfast and get dressed. We stroll through the market, drool over the luscious flowers (we’ve never seen calla lillies that enormous), and eventually buy some cheeses, salami, olives, pasta and prepared Bolognese sauce for dinner tonight. We get back home, and GS 1 still hasn’t soaked his foot, then he has to put a dressing on it, so we didn’t leave until after 11:30. The night before, I went around the corner to the farmacia and bought a foot-bath product that he’s starting to use, we’ll see how it works.
It had been sunny and fairly mild, sort of a hopeful-looking morning while we were at the market, but now it’s cloudy and the winds are picking up. We buy one-day bus passes for four euros each and head out to find the bus stop. Our goal is to get to St. Peter’s, but we’re having a hard time figuring out this bus system. Not only do you have to know where to get ON the bus, but you also have to know when to get OFF. I’m sure we’ll figure this out.
We eventually make it to St. Peter’s, and it’s a freezing wind now. GS 1 looks bored, is ticked off because his camera won’t take good pictures inside the basilica, and is sulking a bit. Not exactly the expression we were hoping to see. We expected jaw-dropping looks of amazement from them, but this didn’t happen. Neither of them wants to climb the dome so we leave after a very short visit. And walk back out into the cold to find the bus stop. Our destination is Barberini for the Hard Rock Café on Via Veneto.
Now this next thing is entirely my fault - I had us get off too soon at the WRONG stop, we end up wandering a bit, got lost, still not familiar with where things are, can’t find the right bus stop again and it’s freezing, the wind is blowing right through us. We eventually make it to the Hard Rock on a bus, after a 40-minute delay! Let’s just say none of us are too happy about this.
It’s great to be sitting in a warm, comfortable place, and we’re in no rush at the Hard Rock. The boys enjoy their American-style lunches and do some shopping at the gift shop for their parents. I hate to leave - can’t we just sit in the warmth a few more hours?
We finally head out and it’s raining now (surprise) as we head to the Capuccin Crypt. We make it inside before we’re completely soaked and head into the crypt. We all agree it’s pretty amazing - creepy but amazing. We try to pick out all the bones and name them, sort of a grotesque thing to do, but the bones are used so artistically and with so much imagination, that you almost forget they’re bones. OK, that’s a hit, we’re two for three so far today.
We get to the exit of the church when we hear thunder and a loud noise - it’s hailing! We run outside and up the stairs into the church to wait it out. After a bit, we walk toward the Spanish Steps and the American Express office, as I want to try to buy tickets for the Alto Velocita train to Naples, so we can go to Pompeii. There’s a promotion for due per uno and we can just afford it if we can get those tickets. I tried online before we left but couldn’t get the site to work for me.
At the American Express office, the woman tries to tell me the Alto Velocita goes to the Terminal Centrale in Naples, and we want the one that goes to the station that begins with an “M” for transfer to Pompeii. I know she’s wrong, as I’ve read so many reports here that give directions from Centrale, but she’s insistent and now I’m second-guessing myself, so I don’t buy any tickets. Outside, we step into blowing rain and start to walk around looking for a bus stop. None of us can see one, but GS 1 spots a taxi stand so we grab one and head for home, miserably cold and wet. Taxi fare 6.40 euro and worth every cent.
Minutes after we get in, it starts to thunder and lightning, followed by heavy hail that lasts 10-20 minutes. It eventually hails on us 4 times today. The boys go out and gather up ice to make snowballs to toss at each other and at anything that looks remotely like a target. Back inside, they’re loud, I’m exhausted and DH’s knees are shot. I fix the pasta and sauce and afterward, I walk with the boys to get a gelato in the Campo. We then walk to Piazza Navona and it’s completely empty, dark and dead because of the continuing rain and cold
I’m so disappointed with the havoc this weather is causing. There’s really nothing much to do or see that’s inside in Rome, unless you’re really into churches, it’s an outdoor type of city. We get only 1 station on our TV and it’s in Italian, of course. We do watch a game show that’s on around 8 or 9 that the boys have named “Dealo or No Dealo”, similar to our Howie Mandell show here, and there’s almost always a gorgeous Italian girl as a contestant. We just hadn’t planned to have to stay in our place so much of the time. I head to the Internet Point with GS 1 and check on weather.com to see if there’s anyplace within a day’s trip from Rome that might have decent weather tomorrow. It looks like Orvieto has a lesser chance of rain and a few degrees warmer than Rome, so we decide to head there tomorrow.
DH and I are up at 9, the boys are still sound asleep. We get dressed, have coffee and bread with nutella and walk to the Campo market. Just before we leave, we awaken the boys and tell them to eat breakfast and get dressed. We stroll through the market, drool over the luscious flowers (we’ve never seen calla lillies that enormous), and eventually buy some cheeses, salami, olives, pasta and prepared Bolognese sauce for dinner tonight. We get back home, and GS 1 still hasn’t soaked his foot, then he has to put a dressing on it, so we didn’t leave until after 11:30. The night before, I went around the corner to the farmacia and bought a foot-bath product that he’s starting to use, we’ll see how it works.
It had been sunny and fairly mild, sort of a hopeful-looking morning while we were at the market, but now it’s cloudy and the winds are picking up. We buy one-day bus passes for four euros each and head out to find the bus stop. Our goal is to get to St. Peter’s, but we’re having a hard time figuring out this bus system. Not only do you have to know where to get ON the bus, but you also have to know when to get OFF. I’m sure we’ll figure this out.
We eventually make it to St. Peter’s, and it’s a freezing wind now. GS 1 looks bored, is ticked off because his camera won’t take good pictures inside the basilica, and is sulking a bit. Not exactly the expression we were hoping to see. We expected jaw-dropping looks of amazement from them, but this didn’t happen. Neither of them wants to climb the dome so we leave after a very short visit. And walk back out into the cold to find the bus stop. Our destination is Barberini for the Hard Rock Café on Via Veneto.
Now this next thing is entirely my fault - I had us get off too soon at the WRONG stop, we end up wandering a bit, got lost, still not familiar with where things are, can’t find the right bus stop again and it’s freezing, the wind is blowing right through us. We eventually make it to the Hard Rock on a bus, after a 40-minute delay! Let’s just say none of us are too happy about this.
It’s great to be sitting in a warm, comfortable place, and we’re in no rush at the Hard Rock. The boys enjoy their American-style lunches and do some shopping at the gift shop for their parents. I hate to leave - can’t we just sit in the warmth a few more hours?
We finally head out and it’s raining now (surprise) as we head to the Capuccin Crypt. We make it inside before we’re completely soaked and head into the crypt. We all agree it’s pretty amazing - creepy but amazing. We try to pick out all the bones and name them, sort of a grotesque thing to do, but the bones are used so artistically and with so much imagination, that you almost forget they’re bones. OK, that’s a hit, we’re two for three so far today.
We get to the exit of the church when we hear thunder and a loud noise - it’s hailing! We run outside and up the stairs into the church to wait it out. After a bit, we walk toward the Spanish Steps and the American Express office, as I want to try to buy tickets for the Alto Velocita train to Naples, so we can go to Pompeii. There’s a promotion for due per uno and we can just afford it if we can get those tickets. I tried online before we left but couldn’t get the site to work for me.
At the American Express office, the woman tries to tell me the Alto Velocita goes to the Terminal Centrale in Naples, and we want the one that goes to the station that begins with an “M” for transfer to Pompeii. I know she’s wrong, as I’ve read so many reports here that give directions from Centrale, but she’s insistent and now I’m second-guessing myself, so I don’t buy any tickets. Outside, we step into blowing rain and start to walk around looking for a bus stop. None of us can see one, but GS 1 spots a taxi stand so we grab one and head for home, miserably cold and wet. Taxi fare 6.40 euro and worth every cent.
Minutes after we get in, it starts to thunder and lightning, followed by heavy hail that lasts 10-20 minutes. It eventually hails on us 4 times today. The boys go out and gather up ice to make snowballs to toss at each other and at anything that looks remotely like a target. Back inside, they’re loud, I’m exhausted and DH’s knees are shot. I fix the pasta and sauce and afterward, I walk with the boys to get a gelato in the Campo. We then walk to Piazza Navona and it’s completely empty, dark and dead because of the continuing rain and cold
I’m so disappointed with the havoc this weather is causing. There’s really nothing much to do or see that’s inside in Rome, unless you’re really into churches, it’s an outdoor type of city. We get only 1 station on our TV and it’s in Italian, of course. We do watch a game show that’s on around 8 or 9 that the boys have named “Dealo or No Dealo”, similar to our Howie Mandell show here, and there’s almost always a gorgeous Italian girl as a contestant. We just hadn’t planned to have to stay in our place so much of the time. I head to the Internet Point with GS 1 and check on weather.com to see if there’s anyplace within a day’s trip from Rome that might have decent weather tomorrow. It looks like Orvieto has a lesser chance of rain and a few degrees warmer than Rome, so we decide to head there tomorrow.
Mar 29th, 2007, 07:01 PM
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Hagan wrote <<Not only do you have to know where to get ON the bus, but you also have to know when to get OFF. I’m sure we’ll figure this out.
>>
That is the best definition of travel and the need to do it that I've ever read.
>>
That is the best definition of travel and the need to do it that I've ever read.
Mar 30th, 2007, 07:55 AM
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Great report...you are terrific grandparents. What's a trip to Rome without a good hail story? (It hailed us when we were peddaling a surrey around the Borghese Gardens.)
I'm sorry it was so noisy for you on the via dei Cappellari. We stayed in a different flat on the same street and were never bothered by noise.
I'm sorry it was so noisy for you on the via dei Cappellari. We stayed in a different flat on the same street and were never bothered by noise.
Mar 30th, 2007, 09:27 AM
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Hagen,
Lovely report. I also think you just had a stroke of bad luck with the noise (well, that and the weather!). We stayed in apt. very close to yours (on Via Giulia) and it was always dead silent (in Aug). Looking forward to reading more.
Lovely report. I also think you just had a stroke of bad luck with the noise (well, that and the weather!). We stayed in apt. very close to yours (on Via Giulia) and it was always dead silent (in Aug). Looking forward to reading more.
Mar 30th, 2007, 11:19 AM
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I think it's wonderful that you took your grandsons with you on this trip. I'm sure they will never forget it and that it will undoubtedly influence their lives in many ways.
It is too bad that the weather couldn't have cooperated a little more -- but perhaps the relatively unique experiences will be funny when you are a little further away from them! I'm sure it wasn't funny when you were cold and wet.
It is too bad that the weather couldn't have cooperated a little more -- but perhaps the relatively unique experiences will be funny when you are a little further away from them! I'm sure it wasn't funny when you were cold and wet.
Mar 30th, 2007, 11:43 AM
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Day 6
Finally get the boys up early and we taxi to Termini (6.40 euros plus tip) for the train to Orvieto. I wasn't expecting such gorgeous scenery, but we're fascinated by the postcard-like vistas, the snow-topped mountains in the background. GS 1 takes pix from his window seat.
We take the funicular up to the city and walk to a scenic overlook - just breathtaking. It's a beautifully sunny day with just a few white clouds, cold but not uncomfortable, so we're elated. We take the bus to the center of town and get our first sight of the duomo, all of its colors glistening in the sunlight. What a fabulous facade!
As we begin to meander down the narrow, cobblestone lanes lined with picturesque shops, GS1 says "We should have stayed here - this is great!" Who knew they'd like little hilltowns?! We get most of our souvenir shopping done in the quaint little shops, small porcelain dolls for the grandaughters, knights and gladiators for the other grandsons, wall plaques for our daughters. GS1 heads out on his own down one of the small streets, and comes back to tell us he's found the house he wants to buy when he's older, so we trudge after him and take a picture of him in front of its gate.
Lunch is at a pizzeria on the square, 4 pizzas, 1/2 carafe chianti, 2 cokes and 1 water, 42 euros.
The wind is beginning to pick up now, really gusting, and we're starting to feel the cold more, which gives us an excuse to duck into more shops. The boys climb to the top of the clock tower, and make it a race, of course. We have return tickets for 6 PM, but the blustery winds are really making it impossible to enjoy walking outdoors for much longer, so we head back to the train station and catch one heading back to Rome at 3:40 or so. Back at Termini, I try once more to buy the promotional tickets to Naples for Pompeii visit, but can only get two at that fare, so we decide it's just too expensive and we'll have to go to Ostia Antica instead. The boys are disappointed but they understand (I hope).
Back at our apartment, we exhausted so we give the boys money to go get their own pizza, we're eating salumi and cheese!
Day 7
Our day to see the Colosseum and the Forum. It's not raining, the sun is trying to peek out, but it's still windy and cold. We set off walking to the Forum to buy our tickets at the Arch of Titus, but get sidetracked by the cat sanctuary and linger there a little. GS1 isn't happy that we're WALKING "all that way", wants to take a taxi, but we keep walking. His foot is feeling good now, since we've been using the Italian foot bathsalt.
Tickets in hand, we head over to the Colosseum and I get out my guidebooks and narrate a little of what we're seeing. We walk around a bit, talk about gladiators and Roman history, and the boys take pictures. GS1 takes a great shot of the ancient stairways between levels. But they admit to some disappointment at the condition of the monument, and are appalled that there's even some grafitti here.
We eat lunch at an overpriced pizzeria across the street, with an extremely rude waiter, but the food was decent and it was nice to sit in a warm place.
Next, it's over to the forum, where we want to take an English tour,but there's a sign that says "no tours in English today - personnel shortage", so I bring out my old "Then and Now" book and we try to wing it. We head up to the Palantine area and it's REALLY getting cold and windy now - seems to pick up every afternoon and the windchill factor drops like crazy! It's really beautiful up here, and we all enjoy the views and gardens, boys even find a tunnel to explore, but the cold winds eventually wear us down and we head back on foot to our apartment.
In the evening, we walk to the Pantheon and get to see the inside, which the boys really like - they marvel at how well-preserved it is and can't get over the hole in the ceiling. We have the best meal of our Italy trip at an outdoor cafe on the right side of the Piazza della Rotunda. The heaters are on full-force under the umbrellas and we're toasty warm. Our waiter is just the nicest man with the sweetest smile and the boys really enjoy him. I have a delicious pasta carbonara, they have pizzas, DH has seafood pasta. With 2 glasses chianti, 2 cokes with refills (!) the bill was 40 euros. Great value. There's something magic about sitting in that piazza at night, looking up at the lit Pantheon and feeling all of that history around you - gives me goosebumps.
We follow dinner with a 5 minute walk to Trevi Fountain, which really WOWED the boys and they thew their coins in. Of course, it was then time for the gelato stop before we head home. A lovely day.
Finally get the boys up early and we taxi to Termini (6.40 euros plus tip) for the train to Orvieto. I wasn't expecting such gorgeous scenery, but we're fascinated by the postcard-like vistas, the snow-topped mountains in the background. GS 1 takes pix from his window seat.
We take the funicular up to the city and walk to a scenic overlook - just breathtaking. It's a beautifully sunny day with just a few white clouds, cold but not uncomfortable, so we're elated. We take the bus to the center of town and get our first sight of the duomo, all of its colors glistening in the sunlight. What a fabulous facade!
As we begin to meander down the narrow, cobblestone lanes lined with picturesque shops, GS1 says "We should have stayed here - this is great!" Who knew they'd like little hilltowns?! We get most of our souvenir shopping done in the quaint little shops, small porcelain dolls for the grandaughters, knights and gladiators for the other grandsons, wall plaques for our daughters. GS1 heads out on his own down one of the small streets, and comes back to tell us he's found the house he wants to buy when he's older, so we trudge after him and take a picture of him in front of its gate.
Lunch is at a pizzeria on the square, 4 pizzas, 1/2 carafe chianti, 2 cokes and 1 water, 42 euros.
The wind is beginning to pick up now, really gusting, and we're starting to feel the cold more, which gives us an excuse to duck into more shops. The boys climb to the top of the clock tower, and make it a race, of course. We have return tickets for 6 PM, but the blustery winds are really making it impossible to enjoy walking outdoors for much longer, so we head back to the train station and catch one heading back to Rome at 3:40 or so. Back at Termini, I try once more to buy the promotional tickets to Naples for Pompeii visit, but can only get two at that fare, so we decide it's just too expensive and we'll have to go to Ostia Antica instead. The boys are disappointed but they understand (I hope).
Back at our apartment, we exhausted so we give the boys money to go get their own pizza, we're eating salumi and cheese!
Day 7
Our day to see the Colosseum and the Forum. It's not raining, the sun is trying to peek out, but it's still windy and cold. We set off walking to the Forum to buy our tickets at the Arch of Titus, but get sidetracked by the cat sanctuary and linger there a little. GS1 isn't happy that we're WALKING "all that way", wants to take a taxi, but we keep walking. His foot is feeling good now, since we've been using the Italian foot bathsalt.
Tickets in hand, we head over to the Colosseum and I get out my guidebooks and narrate a little of what we're seeing. We walk around a bit, talk about gladiators and Roman history, and the boys take pictures. GS1 takes a great shot of the ancient stairways between levels. But they admit to some disappointment at the condition of the monument, and are appalled that there's even some grafitti here.
We eat lunch at an overpriced pizzeria across the street, with an extremely rude waiter, but the food was decent and it was nice to sit in a warm place.
Next, it's over to the forum, where we want to take an English tour,but there's a sign that says "no tours in English today - personnel shortage", so I bring out my old "Then and Now" book and we try to wing it. We head up to the Palantine area and it's REALLY getting cold and windy now - seems to pick up every afternoon and the windchill factor drops like crazy! It's really beautiful up here, and we all enjoy the views and gardens, boys even find a tunnel to explore, but the cold winds eventually wear us down and we head back on foot to our apartment.
In the evening, we walk to the Pantheon and get to see the inside, which the boys really like - they marvel at how well-preserved it is and can't get over the hole in the ceiling. We have the best meal of our Italy trip at an outdoor cafe on the right side of the Piazza della Rotunda. The heaters are on full-force under the umbrellas and we're toasty warm. Our waiter is just the nicest man with the sweetest smile and the boys really enjoy him. I have a delicious pasta carbonara, they have pizzas, DH has seafood pasta. With 2 glasses chianti, 2 cokes with refills (!) the bill was 40 euros. Great value. There's something magic about sitting in that piazza at night, looking up at the lit Pantheon and feeling all of that history around you - gives me goosebumps.
We follow dinner with a 5 minute walk to Trevi Fountain, which really WOWED the boys and they thew their coins in. Of course, it was then time for the gelato stop before we head home. A lovely day.
Mar 30th, 2007, 11:53 AM
#36
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Sorry to hear about your obstacles, but I'm really enjoying your account of the trip. Rome is bringing back great memories from last year-our first Europe visit ever, and I've been jotting notes for our short Paris stay this summer (we were excited to hear about a €10 3-course meal!).
We were embarassed by the graffiti around the Colliseum as well; especially (being Aggies) the aTm carved in one spot. Very disappointing.
Looking forward to the rest of your story!
We were embarassed by the graffiti around the Colliseum as well; especially (being Aggies) the aTm carved in one spot. Very disappointing.
Looking forward to the rest of your story!
Mar 30th, 2007, 03:34 PM
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Great trip report!
will also be heading to paris & rome (among other places) later this year & renting apartments in both - after reading about your 'adventures' i think i'll look into renting a mobile in rome (i think it can be organised through the rental agency we're using "cross-pollinate"
.
Looking forward to the next installment of your trip!
will also be heading to paris & rome (among other places) later this year & renting apartments in both - after reading about your 'adventures' i think i'll look into renting a mobile in rome (i think it can be organised through the rental agency we're using "cross-pollinate"
.Looking forward to the next installment of your trip!
Mar 30th, 2007, 04:13 PM
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Hi Hagan,
wow, what a trip! I'm sorry you had such bad weather. I am very glad you enjoyed Orvieto, but you didn't do the underground cave tour! You would have been out of the wind and you boys would have loved it. Next time!
Do continue....
wow, what a trip! I'm sorry you had such bad weather. I am very glad you enjoyed Orvieto, but you didn't do the underground cave tour! You would have been out of the wind and you boys would have loved it. Next time!
Do continue....
Mar 30th, 2007, 05:01 PM
#40
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Which Sleep in Italy apartment did you rent?? We have one reserved for May on the same street, it is supposed to be "deluxe" and I am getting worried about the description of yours and its owners!
