Our Tuscany & Cinque Terre Trip Report. We even met MaiTaiTom in Siena!
Apr 30th, 2006, 12:27 PM
#21
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 318
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Monday Cinque Terre
Touring Riomaggiore and Monterosso - We had a bizarre weather system (called Italy in October) sitting over us for the time we were there. We woke up and it was pouring. We had an early breakfast and went back to bed. By 11:00 AM we were out and the rain had stopped, somewhat. The trail to Vernazza was said to be treacherous due to the rain so we opted not to risk our lives. We took the train to the last town, Riomaggiore. While touring the town, the most torrential storm/squall came through lasting about 20 minutes. We were stuck in a small doorway and couldn’t move it was so bad, lightening and thunder included. The tourist enjoying lunch in a covered outdoor patio, down the pedestrian street, almost got blow away, seriously. It was like a mini tornado.
After that, we decided to take the train to the next town. The walk between Riomaggiore and Manarola is said to be flat, beautiful and easy, not a hike, but because of the weather, we decided not do it. I was disappointed that we missed this. We thought we got on a local train but ended up on a direct that didn’t stop until Monterosso. We weren’t alone, so make sure you always get on a local train. Oh well, it was around 3:00 PM and we decided not to head back to the other towns and had a nice lunch in Monterosso.
Lunch – I can’t remember the name of this place in old town. We enjoyed a huge bowl of minestrone soup. Perfect to get the wet chill out of our bones. Next was a good but not great pizza. We had our first tourist disappointment when they charged us 6 euros for a beer. We’ve been so spoiled. We explored the Gothic church with its black and white marble. There is a smaller church near by that is in need of restoration. Check it out. It’s loaded with scary marble skeletons. After lunch, we wandered around town with a mission, looking for a much needed bottle of French Vodka to enjoy a pop on our porch before dinner. You can only drink so much Italian beer and vino.
Dinner - The second night we ate at Miky Ristorante, the place to eat in Monterosso. Their address is Lungomare Fegina, 104, across from the parking lot. They are a bit more expensive than Belvadere and are closed on Tuesdays. We had the house special pasta for two with monk fish, tomatoes and olives. The dish arrived in a large terrine covered with a very thin bread crust. When the waiter broke the topping, a tantalizing steam escapes. We asked for pepper and our nice young waiter told us it didn't need it and to taste it first. He was right. This pasta dish rated up in the top three of our trip. We shared a mixed grilled seafood platter and a beautiful mixed vegetable platter. Perfecto. We were so lucky the weather was perfect every evening, stars and all, so we never got wet walking to and from dinner. The balcony entertainment continued. The lightening in the horizon was so dramatic. I wouldn’t want to be on one of those cruise ships sitting out there with the bolts flashing down on them.
Tuesday Cinque Terre
Touring - We woke up to the same thing, rain in the morning, but the weather cleared up and the sun came out before we ventured out. The ferry was running today. It had been closed the day before due to weather. We decided to do the Vernazza hike that starts right from the hotel. I have to say, we’re in good shape and it nearly killed me. It was well worth it. The first 20 minutes is straight up! Then it gets level with some ups and downs. It took us 1 hour and 30 minutes, exactly the time the park ranger claimed. A young Asian lady arrived at the park ranger’s booth from the other way with her boy friend. I asked her how the walk was and she said “horrible”. Great! The walk was amazing. It’s a little trail, only wide enough for one at a time. We had the whole trail to ourselves, except for a few weary tourists. The view above Vernazza was incredible. Again, my Canon Power Shot 2 was taking incredible pictures, effortlessly. They claim the other way is a bit easier, but it was so convenient to start from the hotel when we were fresh and ready to attack. Make sure you wear good hiking boots or sneakers. We had sneakers but hiking boots probably would have been better since it was quite slippery due to morning rain. Don’t forget water.
Vernazza, what a lovely town. I can see why everyone claims it is his or her favorite CT town. Boats pulled up for the day, lined the pedestrian zone. The colorful harbor is out of a picture book. There is even a fort on the tippy top of the town. Sensory overload.
Lunch – Ristorante Vulnetia was right on the harbor and was busy. The much acclaimed Gamberro Rosso was unfortunately closed. The tables outside were full so we enjoyed a lovely lunch inside. We had white anchovies with lemon, capers and pine nuts. Then a Perfect quarto pizza, a pizza divided into 4 different quarters that we requested misto, all mixed together. It was wonderful.
Touring - After a nice lunch in Vernazza, we took the train to Manarola. Manarola was cute but very small. We walked down to the tiny, rough harbor. The ramp built into the big black rocks, for pulling boats in and out was steep and appeared extremely difficult to utilize. Being a fisherman must be a tuff life.
The walk from Manarola to Corniglia was closed for both days we were there due to the weather. So, we hopped on the train to our last town on the Cinque Terre. I did not know Corniglia was on top of a mountain. After climbing the 365 stairs, we reached the top of a very cute town with incredible views. Just as we arrived, a local bus from the train station pulled up. Sigh! The next train back to Monterosso was 45 minutes after we arrived so it was just enough time for a very short visit. Make sure when you arrive in a town that you check the schedule for the next local train. I’m not sure how late the trains ran at night. Speaking of trains, ours, the one we ran down the 365 stairs not to miss, was delayed almost an hour. Nothing like hanging out on a train platform with lots of unhappy tourists.
Dinner - Our last nice we ate at La Terrazza at our hotel, the Porto Roca. It was lovely. A little more formal, but the service was not stuffy. The food was great. We shared a wonderful octopus sopressato with sweet red onions, two pastas; one with wild mushrooms and parpadella, the other pasta was with seafood. Then we had two sea bass dishes. Mine was the best covered with sliced potatoes. For dessert, our handsome waiter took us into the back room, part of the kitchen to choose a dessert, since we wanted to see the desserts. We always manage to sneak into places most are not allowed. We chose a beautiful, rich, pine nut torte. We were glad to sit out on our big balcony under the stars as we enjoyed another lightening show way out at sea, with bolts dropping out of the sky all around the cruise ships.
Next up our last stop, Lucca.
Touring Riomaggiore and Monterosso - We had a bizarre weather system (called Italy in October) sitting over us for the time we were there. We woke up and it was pouring. We had an early breakfast and went back to bed. By 11:00 AM we were out and the rain had stopped, somewhat. The trail to Vernazza was said to be treacherous due to the rain so we opted not to risk our lives. We took the train to the last town, Riomaggiore. While touring the town, the most torrential storm/squall came through lasting about 20 minutes. We were stuck in a small doorway and couldn’t move it was so bad, lightening and thunder included. The tourist enjoying lunch in a covered outdoor patio, down the pedestrian street, almost got blow away, seriously. It was like a mini tornado.
After that, we decided to take the train to the next town. The walk between Riomaggiore and Manarola is said to be flat, beautiful and easy, not a hike, but because of the weather, we decided not do it. I was disappointed that we missed this. We thought we got on a local train but ended up on a direct that didn’t stop until Monterosso. We weren’t alone, so make sure you always get on a local train. Oh well, it was around 3:00 PM and we decided not to head back to the other towns and had a nice lunch in Monterosso.
Lunch – I can’t remember the name of this place in old town. We enjoyed a huge bowl of minestrone soup. Perfect to get the wet chill out of our bones. Next was a good but not great pizza. We had our first tourist disappointment when they charged us 6 euros for a beer. We’ve been so spoiled. We explored the Gothic church with its black and white marble. There is a smaller church near by that is in need of restoration. Check it out. It’s loaded with scary marble skeletons. After lunch, we wandered around town with a mission, looking for a much needed bottle of French Vodka to enjoy a pop on our porch before dinner. You can only drink so much Italian beer and vino.
Dinner - The second night we ate at Miky Ristorante, the place to eat in Monterosso. Their address is Lungomare Fegina, 104, across from the parking lot. They are a bit more expensive than Belvadere and are closed on Tuesdays. We had the house special pasta for two with monk fish, tomatoes and olives. The dish arrived in a large terrine covered with a very thin bread crust. When the waiter broke the topping, a tantalizing steam escapes. We asked for pepper and our nice young waiter told us it didn't need it and to taste it first. He was right. This pasta dish rated up in the top three of our trip. We shared a mixed grilled seafood platter and a beautiful mixed vegetable platter. Perfecto. We were so lucky the weather was perfect every evening, stars and all, so we never got wet walking to and from dinner. The balcony entertainment continued. The lightening in the horizon was so dramatic. I wouldn’t want to be on one of those cruise ships sitting out there with the bolts flashing down on them.
Tuesday Cinque Terre
Touring - We woke up to the same thing, rain in the morning, but the weather cleared up and the sun came out before we ventured out. The ferry was running today. It had been closed the day before due to weather. We decided to do the Vernazza hike that starts right from the hotel. I have to say, we’re in good shape and it nearly killed me. It was well worth it. The first 20 minutes is straight up! Then it gets level with some ups and downs. It took us 1 hour and 30 minutes, exactly the time the park ranger claimed. A young Asian lady arrived at the park ranger’s booth from the other way with her boy friend. I asked her how the walk was and she said “horrible”. Great! The walk was amazing. It’s a little trail, only wide enough for one at a time. We had the whole trail to ourselves, except for a few weary tourists. The view above Vernazza was incredible. Again, my Canon Power Shot 2 was taking incredible pictures, effortlessly. They claim the other way is a bit easier, but it was so convenient to start from the hotel when we were fresh and ready to attack. Make sure you wear good hiking boots or sneakers. We had sneakers but hiking boots probably would have been better since it was quite slippery due to morning rain. Don’t forget water.
Vernazza, what a lovely town. I can see why everyone claims it is his or her favorite CT town. Boats pulled up for the day, lined the pedestrian zone. The colorful harbor is out of a picture book. There is even a fort on the tippy top of the town. Sensory overload.
Lunch – Ristorante Vulnetia was right on the harbor and was busy. The much acclaimed Gamberro Rosso was unfortunately closed. The tables outside were full so we enjoyed a lovely lunch inside. We had white anchovies with lemon, capers and pine nuts. Then a Perfect quarto pizza, a pizza divided into 4 different quarters that we requested misto, all mixed together. It was wonderful.
Touring - After a nice lunch in Vernazza, we took the train to Manarola. Manarola was cute but very small. We walked down to the tiny, rough harbor. The ramp built into the big black rocks, for pulling boats in and out was steep and appeared extremely difficult to utilize. Being a fisherman must be a tuff life.
The walk from Manarola to Corniglia was closed for both days we were there due to the weather. So, we hopped on the train to our last town on the Cinque Terre. I did not know Corniglia was on top of a mountain. After climbing the 365 stairs, we reached the top of a very cute town with incredible views. Just as we arrived, a local bus from the train station pulled up. Sigh! The next train back to Monterosso was 45 minutes after we arrived so it was just enough time for a very short visit. Make sure when you arrive in a town that you check the schedule for the next local train. I’m not sure how late the trains ran at night. Speaking of trains, ours, the one we ran down the 365 stairs not to miss, was delayed almost an hour. Nothing like hanging out on a train platform with lots of unhappy tourists.
Dinner - Our last nice we ate at La Terrazza at our hotel, the Porto Roca. It was lovely. A little more formal, but the service was not stuffy. The food was great. We shared a wonderful octopus sopressato with sweet red onions, two pastas; one with wild mushrooms and parpadella, the other pasta was with seafood. Then we had two sea bass dishes. Mine was the best covered with sliced potatoes. For dessert, our handsome waiter took us into the back room, part of the kitchen to choose a dessert, since we wanted to see the desserts. We always manage to sneak into places most are not allowed. We chose a beautiful, rich, pine nut torte. We were glad to sit out on our big balcony under the stars as we enjoyed another lightening show way out at sea, with bolts dropping out of the sky all around the cruise ships.
Next up our last stop, Lucca.
May 1st, 2006, 02:30 AM
#24
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Easygoer:
Thanks for the report. The restaurant recommendations are great - I am going to some of the towns you went to in a few weeks and love having dining options.
I do have a question tho, but pretty basic. I am also traveling on Air France, Boston to Paris to Genoa. First time using AF. Can you tell me how the flight/service was in general? Thanks.
Thanks for the report. The restaurant recommendations are great - I am going to some of the towns you went to in a few weeks and love having dining options.
I do have a question tho, but pretty basic. I am also traveling on Air France, Boston to Paris to Genoa. First time using AF. Can you tell me how the flight/service was in general? Thanks.
May 1st, 2006, 08:13 AM
#25
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 318
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Jedri, we like Air France very much and try fly them every time to Europe. Boarding is very orderly. The service is good, food OK (Beef Bourguignon or Fish I think). They used to serve cocktails first, then dinner and wine, but now they come around with beverages, wine etc and your dinner pretty much together. They do come around later with the cart and cognac. Afterwards, they leave a beverage cart with water, juice and soft drinks in the bulkhead for you to help yourself.
The flights to and from Boston are usually Airbus’s. That’s 2 seats/4 or 5seats/2 seats. Try and get on the two sides. Each seat has it’s own TV with 4 or so movies, games, plus some wonderful old TV shows, like MacGyver, Love Boat and Family Ties. Very silly to watch now a days but fun to pass the time. Going to Paris takes less time due to the Gulf Stream, about 6 hrs and 45 minutes. Back is around 7 hours 40 minutes.
They supply you with earplugs and eye masks for sleeping. Business gets little slipper socks and more stuff. Once the person in front of you puts their chair back to sleep, you have to do so as well, since there is no room. It’s like people standing up in front of you at a ball game, or dominos, everyone goes back. Before you know it, they are coming around with coffee and breakfast, usually yogurt and a muffin of some sort.
Charles de Galle is a great airport, as long as you’re not running to make a connection. Make sure you ask when you check in where your flight to Genoa is departing from and the best way to get there. You may need to take a bus. Security gates are well manned and it’s usually not too long of a wait.
Have a great trip. I wish we had more then two weeks. We would have added more time to include the Italian Riveria. Next time.
The flights to and from Boston are usually Airbus’s. That’s 2 seats/4 or 5seats/2 seats. Try and get on the two sides. Each seat has it’s own TV with 4 or so movies, games, plus some wonderful old TV shows, like MacGyver, Love Boat and Family Ties. Very silly to watch now a days but fun to pass the time. Going to Paris takes less time due to the Gulf Stream, about 6 hrs and 45 minutes. Back is around 7 hours 40 minutes.
They supply you with earplugs and eye masks for sleeping. Business gets little slipper socks and more stuff. Once the person in front of you puts their chair back to sleep, you have to do so as well, since there is no room. It’s like people standing up in front of you at a ball game, or dominos, everyone goes back. Before you know it, they are coming around with coffee and breakfast, usually yogurt and a muffin of some sort.
Charles de Galle is a great airport, as long as you’re not running to make a connection. Make sure you ask when you check in where your flight to Genoa is departing from and the best way to get there. You may need to take a bus. Security gates are well manned and it’s usually not too long of a wait.
Have a great trip. I wish we had more then two weeks. We would have added more time to include the Italian Riveria. Next time.
May 1st, 2006, 08:16 AM
#26
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 318
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Wednesday Cinque Terre to Lucca
Touring – Goodbye Cinque Terre, we enjoyed our stay very much. Three nights was perfect, however, my plans to spend a day touring Portofino never would have fit into this schedule. We both would love to spend more time visiting the Italian Riviera.
We picked up our car after another hair-raising ride down the cliff side from the Porto Roca. Parking was reasonable at 12 euros per day. The drive out of Monterosso was terrific, with tiny villages clinging to the mountainside. It took 1 hour and 20 minutes to make it to our last stop in Tuscany, Lucca.
Lucca - There have been many posting about loving Lucca or not. We loved Lucca. We had explored the northern and southern areas of Tuscany, quaint and charming. The Cinque Terre was so picturesque. Lucca was the real deal. A busy lived in town with plenty to see and do. We arrived after siesta and enjoyed the hustle and bustle. There were old folks and kids as well, riding bicycles and dogs everywhere. It was a perfect town to end our stay in Tuscany.
Hotel Palazzo Alexander - We found our way through the old ramparts of this circled fortress town and within moments, we were in front of Hotel Palazzo Alexander. I was slightly concerned about this hotel, due to some mixed reviews on Trip Advisor. We found this hotel to be fine. The friendly owner greeted us. The interior was ornate with red and gold everywhere. Hey, we’re in Italy. It was over the top, but fun. We had booked the roof top Tosca Suite with a balcony. Standing out on the terrace, looking over the rooftops we felt like we were in Fagan’s hideout in Oliver Twist. The view was terrific. To the left was the Torre Guinigi topped with trees. We had a small separate sitting room. The bathroom was large and clean. The bellman was extremely friendly and helped Michael park the car behind the hotel. Our only criticism was that one of the gentlemen attending the front desk was rather aloof. I suppose we would have to run into one unpleasant person during our two-week stay.
Touring – We set off on foot to explore Lucca and get our bearings. We checked out menus at some restaurants that were suggested. We found our way to Piazza San Michele. There must have been some sort of gala the days before. They were taking down scaffolding and the Piazza was covered in litter. It made an unusual picture of a magnificent church surrounded in trash.
Late Lunch – Someone on the board suggested a pizza restaurant behind the church. We found Pizzelia Pellegrini and ordered two pizzas mixed with ham, mushrooms artichokes and olives. The pizzas were perfect at 6 euros each. One probably would have been fine for two people, but we were hungry. We sat at an outside table, mellowed out with a couple of big beers and enjoyed people watching. Locals were everywhere, walking their dogs, shopping, and biking. I was a lot more aware of street people, something we did not encounter in the rest of our travels. This is part of city life. I was surprised after a young foreign women showed me a ancient picture of some kids. She asked for money and we told her no. Two minutes later, she came out of the pizza restaurant with a empty glass and insisted I give her some of my beer! She actual tried grabbing the bottle. Hey, no one messes with my beer. Time for a nap for Mike and a bath for me.
Dinner – We ate at the very popular local Trattoria da Leo. We had made reservations that afternoon. Good thing, it was mobbed. The owner’s wife helped us decipher the handwritten Italian menu and told us the house specialties. We started with zuppa di faro, soup with grains and beans. It was much better than it sounds. We shared raviolis stuffed with zucchini and a light cheese sauce. We enjoyed chicken on the bone with olives and tomatoes then a rabbit with juniper berries. The owner’s wife brought over a plate of roasted potatoes and a salad of arugula and tomatoes. We had a litre of vino bianco. The entire meal came to 44 euros. Everything was wonderful, not to mention fun. We were immersed. We thanked their Noni who was cooking up a storm in the kitchen. We enjoyed an after-dinner cocktail on our balcony enjoying the stars.
Thursday Lucca
We had breakfast at the Hotel. It was quite nice and served in a lovely room. We decided to walk the ramparts around Lucca hopping on and off to see the city sights. The Duomo was fine. We saw the magnificent marble Tomb of Ilaria del Carretto. It cost 3 euros (I think), but was truly beautiful. The rampart walk was so peaceful compared to the busy town. On of our favorite sights was the Piazza dell’Anfiteatro Romono. This piazza is on the site of a Roman Amphitheater. Now medieval buildings are built over the ruins retaining the original oval shape. Near here is the Church of San Frediano. Unfortunately, it was closed. However, you must seek this church out for its amazing mosaic fresco on its façade. We decided not to climb either the Torre delle Ore or the one with trees on top. Neither of us likes tight spaces.
Lunch - Of course, during siesta, we decided it was time to eat. Italy is not accommodating for tourists since everything closes from 2:00 – 4:00 pm. They take siesta seriously. There were a few tourist restaurants open, but we were not in the mood for a large sit down lunch. We ended up at a picture perfect gourmet grocery store, La Grotta de Rocchi, via Antitretro, 2, outside the piazza. The minute they opened, we marched in. The nice man behind the counter made us the best picnic, which we took to the Piazza dell’Anfiteatro. On a shaded beach, we laid out our lunch of Proscuitto di Parma, salami, mortadella with truffles, mixed olives, Bel Paese cheese and a lovely Tuscan pecorino cheese along with a large piece of warm crusty focaccia bread and of course, two big beers. Many tourists looked on at us with envy. 5:00 PM means nap time.
Dinner – Before dinner, we watched a dramatic sunset from our balcony, of course with a pop. Tonight we ate at the recommended Il Giglio; again, we made reservations during our daytime walk. We started with pasta with rabbit and grilled cuttlefish over a salad. For dinner, we shared grilled lamb chops with zucchini and a chicken dish with fried fungi (mushrooms), and Swiss chard. For dessert, we shared a wild berry cake with ice cream and some cookies. Lovely evening.
Friday – Pisa (our last day in Tuscany, sigh!)
It was a bit cloudy so we slept in a bit. We were off to Pisa by 11:00 AM, down a quaint little tree lined road. We were glad the drive was scenic. We found a great parking place next to one of the entrances to the Campo dei Miracoli (Field of Miracles) and that it was, miraculous, or in my own words, really, really cool. I wasn’t prepared for this combination of the Leaning Tower, the Duomo, the Battistero and the Camposanto (cemetery). It was impressive. We wandered around for about 2 hours. The cemetery was our favorite. According to legend the grounds inside are filled with dirt brought back by the crusaders from the Holy Land. The fresco Triumph of Death from the 14th century was, as my guide book said, “disturbing” showing the ravages of the Black Death. Check out the old photo in the front, showing the condition of the cemetery after WW11. The Baptistery was lovely and the Duomo said to be the most beautiful Romanesque style in Italy, was. There was someone’s skeleton in a glass tomb and also someone’s skull. Oh my! We did not climb the tower, both being a bit claustrophobic. We did look like idiots trying to get the mandatory pictures of us holding the Leaning Tower up with our feet. Make sure you go to the arch by the cemetery end of the Campo and take a picture looking through the arch. It came out great. We bought a mini Leaning Tower of Pisa as a souvenir, corny but cute.
Lunch – I didn’t write down the name of this bar/restaurant. It was right outside the walls where we parked. We enjoyed our last meat and cheese platter and a bountiful salad with tomatoes, mozzarella, tuna, olives, rocket, lettuce and corn. All served with crusty bread. Yummy! We were home at our hotel by 4:00 PM.
Dinner – Our last and one of our best meals was at Buccadisantantonio. We made reservations for this restaurant on our second day here. We had met the owner when we made our reservation. He was pleased to see us and brought us to a perfectly romantic table. The décor was wonderful. The restaurant has been around since the 1800s. The owner had told us when we made the reservations that our name was similar to a very famous family in Lucca. Perhaps my husband’s grandparents had changed it a bit when they came to America. There was even a piazza we found with the name. They close it off for Easter and show outdoor movies. For dinner, we were served a complimentary glass of Proscetto. We had a tasty cold rabbit salad with pine nuts and two pasta dishes; one was a fluffy, pillow, cloud like ravioli that was so light. The other was tagletelli with porcini mushrooms. We both got the house specialty of roasted kid, served with potatoes and spinach. We enjoyed a local vino bianco and finished with a Rosso di Montalcino. The charming owner gave us a video tape of Lucca. We found a gelato place on the way home and enjoyed a three scooper! It was a perfect finish to our whirlwind tour of Tuscany.
Touring – Goodbye Cinque Terre, we enjoyed our stay very much. Three nights was perfect, however, my plans to spend a day touring Portofino never would have fit into this schedule. We both would love to spend more time visiting the Italian Riviera.
We picked up our car after another hair-raising ride down the cliff side from the Porto Roca. Parking was reasonable at 12 euros per day. The drive out of Monterosso was terrific, with tiny villages clinging to the mountainside. It took 1 hour and 20 minutes to make it to our last stop in Tuscany, Lucca.
Lucca - There have been many posting about loving Lucca or not. We loved Lucca. We had explored the northern and southern areas of Tuscany, quaint and charming. The Cinque Terre was so picturesque. Lucca was the real deal. A busy lived in town with plenty to see and do. We arrived after siesta and enjoyed the hustle and bustle. There were old folks and kids as well, riding bicycles and dogs everywhere. It was a perfect town to end our stay in Tuscany.
Hotel Palazzo Alexander - We found our way through the old ramparts of this circled fortress town and within moments, we were in front of Hotel Palazzo Alexander. I was slightly concerned about this hotel, due to some mixed reviews on Trip Advisor. We found this hotel to be fine. The friendly owner greeted us. The interior was ornate with red and gold everywhere. Hey, we’re in Italy. It was over the top, but fun. We had booked the roof top Tosca Suite with a balcony. Standing out on the terrace, looking over the rooftops we felt like we were in Fagan’s hideout in Oliver Twist. The view was terrific. To the left was the Torre Guinigi topped with trees. We had a small separate sitting room. The bathroom was large and clean. The bellman was extremely friendly and helped Michael park the car behind the hotel. Our only criticism was that one of the gentlemen attending the front desk was rather aloof. I suppose we would have to run into one unpleasant person during our two-week stay.
Touring – We set off on foot to explore Lucca and get our bearings. We checked out menus at some restaurants that were suggested. We found our way to Piazza San Michele. There must have been some sort of gala the days before. They were taking down scaffolding and the Piazza was covered in litter. It made an unusual picture of a magnificent church surrounded in trash.
Late Lunch – Someone on the board suggested a pizza restaurant behind the church. We found Pizzelia Pellegrini and ordered two pizzas mixed with ham, mushrooms artichokes and olives. The pizzas were perfect at 6 euros each. One probably would have been fine for two people, but we were hungry. We sat at an outside table, mellowed out with a couple of big beers and enjoyed people watching. Locals were everywhere, walking their dogs, shopping, and biking. I was a lot more aware of street people, something we did not encounter in the rest of our travels. This is part of city life. I was surprised after a young foreign women showed me a ancient picture of some kids. She asked for money and we told her no. Two minutes later, she came out of the pizza restaurant with a empty glass and insisted I give her some of my beer! She actual tried grabbing the bottle. Hey, no one messes with my beer. Time for a nap for Mike and a bath for me.
Dinner – We ate at the very popular local Trattoria da Leo. We had made reservations that afternoon. Good thing, it was mobbed. The owner’s wife helped us decipher the handwritten Italian menu and told us the house specialties. We started with zuppa di faro, soup with grains and beans. It was much better than it sounds. We shared raviolis stuffed with zucchini and a light cheese sauce. We enjoyed chicken on the bone with olives and tomatoes then a rabbit with juniper berries. The owner’s wife brought over a plate of roasted potatoes and a salad of arugula and tomatoes. We had a litre of vino bianco. The entire meal came to 44 euros. Everything was wonderful, not to mention fun. We were immersed. We thanked their Noni who was cooking up a storm in the kitchen. We enjoyed an after-dinner cocktail on our balcony enjoying the stars.
Thursday Lucca
We had breakfast at the Hotel. It was quite nice and served in a lovely room. We decided to walk the ramparts around Lucca hopping on and off to see the city sights. The Duomo was fine. We saw the magnificent marble Tomb of Ilaria del Carretto. It cost 3 euros (I think), but was truly beautiful. The rampart walk was so peaceful compared to the busy town. On of our favorite sights was the Piazza dell’Anfiteatro Romono. This piazza is on the site of a Roman Amphitheater. Now medieval buildings are built over the ruins retaining the original oval shape. Near here is the Church of San Frediano. Unfortunately, it was closed. However, you must seek this church out for its amazing mosaic fresco on its façade. We decided not to climb either the Torre delle Ore or the one with trees on top. Neither of us likes tight spaces.
Lunch - Of course, during siesta, we decided it was time to eat. Italy is not accommodating for tourists since everything closes from 2:00 – 4:00 pm. They take siesta seriously. There were a few tourist restaurants open, but we were not in the mood for a large sit down lunch. We ended up at a picture perfect gourmet grocery store, La Grotta de Rocchi, via Antitretro, 2, outside the piazza. The minute they opened, we marched in. The nice man behind the counter made us the best picnic, which we took to the Piazza dell’Anfiteatro. On a shaded beach, we laid out our lunch of Proscuitto di Parma, salami, mortadella with truffles, mixed olives, Bel Paese cheese and a lovely Tuscan pecorino cheese along with a large piece of warm crusty focaccia bread and of course, two big beers. Many tourists looked on at us with envy. 5:00 PM means nap time.
Dinner – Before dinner, we watched a dramatic sunset from our balcony, of course with a pop. Tonight we ate at the recommended Il Giglio; again, we made reservations during our daytime walk. We started with pasta with rabbit and grilled cuttlefish over a salad. For dinner, we shared grilled lamb chops with zucchini and a chicken dish with fried fungi (mushrooms), and Swiss chard. For dessert, we shared a wild berry cake with ice cream and some cookies. Lovely evening.
Friday – Pisa (our last day in Tuscany, sigh!)
It was a bit cloudy so we slept in a bit. We were off to Pisa by 11:00 AM, down a quaint little tree lined road. We were glad the drive was scenic. We found a great parking place next to one of the entrances to the Campo dei Miracoli (Field of Miracles) and that it was, miraculous, or in my own words, really, really cool. I wasn’t prepared for this combination of the Leaning Tower, the Duomo, the Battistero and the Camposanto (cemetery). It was impressive. We wandered around for about 2 hours. The cemetery was our favorite. According to legend the grounds inside are filled with dirt brought back by the crusaders from the Holy Land. The fresco Triumph of Death from the 14th century was, as my guide book said, “disturbing” showing the ravages of the Black Death. Check out the old photo in the front, showing the condition of the cemetery after WW11. The Baptistery was lovely and the Duomo said to be the most beautiful Romanesque style in Italy, was. There was someone’s skeleton in a glass tomb and also someone’s skull. Oh my! We did not climb the tower, both being a bit claustrophobic. We did look like idiots trying to get the mandatory pictures of us holding the Leaning Tower up with our feet. Make sure you go to the arch by the cemetery end of the Campo and take a picture looking through the arch. It came out great. We bought a mini Leaning Tower of Pisa as a souvenir, corny but cute.
Lunch – I didn’t write down the name of this bar/restaurant. It was right outside the walls where we parked. We enjoyed our last meat and cheese platter and a bountiful salad with tomatoes, mozzarella, tuna, olives, rocket, lettuce and corn. All served with crusty bread. Yummy! We were home at our hotel by 4:00 PM.
Dinner – Our last and one of our best meals was at Buccadisantantonio. We made reservations for this restaurant on our second day here. We had met the owner when we made our reservation. He was pleased to see us and brought us to a perfectly romantic table. The décor was wonderful. The restaurant has been around since the 1800s. The owner had told us when we made the reservations that our name was similar to a very famous family in Lucca. Perhaps my husband’s grandparents had changed it a bit when they came to America. There was even a piazza we found with the name. They close it off for Easter and show outdoor movies. For dinner, we were served a complimentary glass of Proscetto. We had a tasty cold rabbit salad with pine nuts and two pasta dishes; one was a fluffy, pillow, cloud like ravioli that was so light. The other was tagletelli with porcini mushrooms. We both got the house specialty of roasted kid, served with potatoes and spinach. We enjoyed a local vino bianco and finished with a Rosso di Montalcino. The charming owner gave us a video tape of Lucca. We found a gelato place on the way home and enjoyed a three scooper! It was a perfect finish to our whirlwind tour of Tuscany.
May 1st, 2006, 08:26 AM
#27
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 318
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Saturday – Pisa /Paris/Boston
Opps, we went the wrong way on the Autostrade towards Florence, not Pisa. Of all days to make a mistake. We rushed to the airport through security just in time to board a bus to our first flight. Just then, we were told to get off, the plane has been delayed over an hour. Sigh! We were 45 minutes late for our connection to Boston. Luck was with us, there were many connecting flights late that morning and they held the plane for us. I don’t ever think we’ve strolled through Charles de Galle; it’s always a mad dash.
Well, our Slow Travel Tour has ended, back to the fast pace of life in the US of A. Perhaps we can take what we learned from Tuscany and at least slow down and take more time to enjoy the finer things in life, especially food. Do you think the word rabbit came up a few times in this report, or what? I would like to sit on the bench in San Quirico with the old men and the crazy white cat for a day.
It is time to start planning our next trip to Italy. Sicily, here we come. Ciao!
Opps, we went the wrong way on the Autostrade towards Florence, not Pisa. Of all days to make a mistake. We rushed to the airport through security just in time to board a bus to our first flight. Just then, we were told to get off, the plane has been delayed over an hour. Sigh! We were 45 minutes late for our connection to Boston. Luck was with us, there were many connecting flights late that morning and they held the plane for us. I don’t ever think we’ve strolled through Charles de Galle; it’s always a mad dash.
Well, our Slow Travel Tour has ended, back to the fast pace of life in the US of A. Perhaps we can take what we learned from Tuscany and at least slow down and take more time to enjoy the finer things in life, especially food. Do you think the word rabbit came up a few times in this report, or what? I would like to sit on the bench in San Quirico with the old men and the crazy white cat for a day.
It is time to start planning our next trip to Italy. Sicily, here we come. Ciao!
May 1st, 2006, 09:00 AM
#29
It's tough to travel incognito with all you Fodorites out there.
When I didn't see a trip report from you, I thought I might have hallucinated about our chance meeting at Cane e Gatto (well, it was a lot of food and vino). It's not often in Siena that you run into someone who exclaims, "Bobthenavigator rocks!"
It was fun to read about your trip, and I'll have to try some of the restaurants you have mentioned on our next journey. I'm glad you enjoyed Palazzo del Capitano and those adult beverages in the courtyard (what a great hotel!!!).
When I didn't see a trip report from you, I thought I might have hallucinated about our chance meeting at Cane e Gatto (well, it was a lot of food and vino). It's not often in Siena that you run into someone who exclaims, "Bobthenavigator rocks!"
It was fun to read about your trip, and I'll have to try some of the restaurants you have mentioned on our next journey. I'm glad you enjoyed Palazzo del Capitano and those adult beverages in the courtyard (what a great hotel!!!).
May 1st, 2006, 11:19 AM
#30
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 318
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hello Maitaitom! Who knew when we met you that you were so infamous on the travel boards? I started this report when we first returned, but for some reason, never got it finished until now. I was caught up planning a trip to Barbados this past March.
I love your blog, especially the photo of the Ambien bottle. That was a very funny story. Where are you off to next?
Root for the Sox to be the Yankees tonight!
I love your blog, especially the photo of the Ambien bottle. That was a very funny story. Where are you off to next?
Root for the Sox to be the Yankees tonight!
May 1st, 2006, 01:06 PM
#33
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 318
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Motor City Girl, we stay at Porto Real in Playa del Carmen in May 2002. If you ask my husband he would rate the balcony in the top 3, mainly because there was so much action going on between the fishing boats, ferries to Cozumel and people. It was delightful. They have built a whole new extension next to it, heading north.
We went back last year and stayed at Secrets Capri, all inclusive. It was very nice for an all inclusive, but certainly did not have the charm of staying right near town in Playa. We love that area, so much to do!
We went back last year and stayed at Secrets Capri, all inclusive. It was very nice for an all inclusive, but certainly did not have the charm of staying right near town in Playa. We love that area, so much to do!
May 2nd, 2006, 08:53 AM
#34
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,323
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
LOL, we rank bathrooms too and the one at Porto Real is among our top. I think you could have fit at least 20 people in the shower and the tiles were gorgeous. I hope the new addition didn't affect the views.
May 2nd, 2006, 01:43 PM
#35
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 318
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We are getting off track of the Italy post, but I had to laugh when you mentioned the bathroom shower tub at Porto Real. It was by far our favorite. You could probably fit 20 people in the shower/tub. The goofie beds were fun too, although hard as rocks. The original hotel still faces Playa del Carmens beach. The addition is on the back side heading north up the coast.
Perhaps we should start a "What was you favorite Balcony or Bathroom" thread.
Perhaps we should start a "What was you favorite Balcony or Bathroom" thread.
May 3rd, 2006, 04:39 PM
#39
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 318
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Annabelle, drive from San Gimignano to Volterra on a Saturday and you to will be well rewarded. Even my husband thought the bikers were hot! Kidding, kinda.
Bob, I just booked our airfare to Sicily for 2 weeks, thanks to your review. Count down calendar is at 134 days!
Bob, I just booked our airfare to Sicily for 2 weeks, thanks to your review. Count down calendar is at 134 days!
