Our Trip to Paris ~ May 15 to 31

Jun 20th, 2009, 01:39 PM
  #1  
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Our Trip to Paris ~ May 15 to 31

We took our 3rd trip to Paris last month and had a wonderful time once again. We stayed in the beautiful Napoleon apartment on rue Rivoli from ParisBestLodge and were very pleased with the apartment, Thierry's services and the location. This is the second time we have rented from ParisBestLodge and we would recommend it to anyone (friends of ours rented the same place just last week and loved it as well). It is a large 1 bedroom with a nicely equipped kitchen, free internet (and a small laptop, but we brought our own), washer/dryer, free local calls and best of all, no upfront security deposit except for a cheque in your local currency that Thierry does not cash unless there is a problem. I really like not having my precious vacation dollars tied up in security deposits. The location can't be beat, right on Rivoli near Vielle du Temple in the heart of the Marais but close to so much more in Paris, including the Seine. We loved our little haven in Paris.

Since I have already written almost a small novel on my blog

www.slowtrav.com/blog/joden

I won't repeat it all here since it would probably be way too long, but I can give you a couple of highlights and you can read the rest if you like.

We were lucky enough to eat at Spring once again and even more privileged to have a private cooking class with Daniel Rose and his sous chef Marie Aude (thanks to GraceJoan, who was able to book the class for us before she left. Thank you so much, Joan!) This was simply the highlight of our trip, both due to the absolutely delicious meal we prepared with Daniel, but also just spending time with him and Marie, they are the nicest, sweetest funniest most unassuming people you would want to meet. There is absolutely no ego there and we felt welcomed and comfortable during the almost 5 hours we spend with them on a rainy Tuesday morning/afternoon. Daniel is so busy trying to get his new restaurant off the ground that he doesn't have much time to hold these classes anymore, so we feel even more blessed to have been able to spend this time with him.

We ate at lots of great new restaurants, including 2 which were recommendations from some locals we met one night at Caffe Angela in the Marais ( a great little Italian place with homemade pasta) ~ Le Fils de Saison in the upper Marais and Le Vieux Comptoir in the 1st. We had delicious meals at all 3 places (I'm still dreaming of the roasted figs with Spanish ham in a balsamic reduction at Le Vieux Comptoir!) We also enjoyed our meals at Chez Janou in the Marais, Gallopin near La Bourse (where we ate after a ballet performance at Opera Garnier, which was another new and wonderful experience), Au Fous de L'Ile on Ile St Louis and Les Petit Carreaux on rue Montorgeuil (great salads for lunch).

We also saw Simply Red at the Olympia one night and did a Meeting the French tour at Gerald Mulot where we got to see how macarons and chocolate are made (and were given lots of samples.........yummy!) We visited the Richard Lenoir market twice to stock up our apartment with delicious pates, cheeses, fresh butter and eggs, and lots of other goodies, saw Parc Butte Chaumont and Parc Monceau, walked to Bois de Boulogne, visited the Batignolles area, Montmartre (mostly rue Lepic and the cemetary, not Place des Tetres, which we saw 2 years ago and have no interest in seeing again, way too many tourists), a couples of quartiers in the 13th, the Montparnasse cemetary, waked along Canal St Martin (we did the cruise last year and wanted to see it from another angle ~ loved our lunch at Chez Prune), visited the chocolate temple of Jacques Genin on rue de Turenne in the 3rd and had lunch at Marche des Enfants Rouge on a rainy afternoon. We also went to David Lebovitz's booksigning at WHSmith (his book is wickedly funny, just like he is), saw the Rodin Museum in the dark on the Nuit des Musees and visited the Andy Warhol exhibit at the Grand Palais. There's lots more detail in my blog, but you get the idea, we had a fabulous trip!

We also visited our friend who has a lovely apartment in the 11th, with an unbelievable private garden! We are seriously thinking of renting it for our trip next fall (15 months away, sob, sob)

http://www.vrbo.com/103254

We walked miles and miles and only used 3 carnets of tickets in 17 days. We had thought of doing the Navigo thing, but I don't think it would have been worth it for us. We love walking and seeing so many wonderful things as we slowly meander, deciding as we go along which way to go. Of course, we walked along the Seine hand in hand countless times, both during the day and at night, enjoying the feeling of being lucky enough to be together in the City of Lights.

We found the Parisians kind and helpful, spoke to lots of locals and were treated with respect everywhere we went. Paris has stolen our hearts and we are truly hooked. We hope to spend another 2 weeks next fall to experience a different season (Daniel told us the food is fabulous in the fall) and celebrate Den's 50th birthday in the city we both love so much.

Jo
ParisJo is offline  
Jun 20th, 2009, 01:50 PM
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Hi Jo!
When I clicked on your slowtrav link I recognized your picture from your previous reports. I look forward to reading more.

Lucky you getting to go to David Lebovitz's book signing! I love his blog and have been meaning to buy the book which I've heard is very funny.

Was the meeting the French tour held in French or did anyone speak English? I looked at doing one of those on my last trip to Paris, but the timing did not work out.
Kristina is offline  
Jun 20th, 2009, 02:02 PM
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Hi Jo,

Thanks for your report. Sounds like you had a lot of fun. We might have crossed paths a few times--Jacques Genin, Marche des Enfants Rouge, Montmartre, yes too busy, too crowded.

I rented from Paris Best Lodge in May too (actually, Thierry referred me to one of his recommended apartments, but all my booking/dealings were with Thierry). I agree, nice, convenient and well-located places. Mine had the added bonus of Gerard Multo on the corner. I also love your friends' apartment; I realize I bookmarked it a long time ago.

Looking forward to your next report. Fifteen months will fly by.
Leely2 is offline  
Jun 20th, 2009, 02:30 PM
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Jo,

Just finished responding to your email to me and then came to read your report.

I'm so glad that the cooking class worked out with Daniel. I didn't know if we were going to be able to do it! Daniel is a nice, nice person. I will look forward to dining with him in the fall.

Enjoy your planning for the next trip.

Joan
gracejoan3 is offline  
Jun 20th, 2009, 02:56 PM
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Hi Jo
Three times in Paris - lucky you
I had tentatively booked your friends apartment for my trip next March... am so glad to hear its as good as it looks. Is it easy to get around the city from this location? This will be our first time in Paris. Also is it big enough for 2 adults and an 11 yr old girl?

I am off to explore your pages on slow travel...
Thanks
Emerald
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Jun 20th, 2009, 03:07 PM
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Sorry for my typo, of course I meant Gerard Mulot. Got a little overexcited there for a minute thinking of sweet baked goods...
Leely2 is offline  
Jun 20th, 2009, 03:31 PM
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Thanks guys.

Kristina, the Meeting the French tour was held in English although the workers at Gerard Mulot only spoke French, our guide translated for us (we speak French,so we were able to talk to the pastry chefs directly). We loved the tour and will try to do the bakery one next time.

Emerald, the apartment is a few minutes from a metro station and you are about a 10 minute walk from the Bastille and 15 minutes from the Marais. I think it would be fine for the 3 of you, there is a queen siza bed and the couch is a double fouton. We may bring our grandson with us in a few years and I wouldn't hesitate to stay in this apartment. The garden really has to be seen to be believed, it is a litle slice of heaven in the middle of Paris. All we could hear when we sat out was birds chirping and the flowers were in full bloom. There's free wifi and free calls to US/Canada and you really have everything you need to enjoy your stay, both in the apartment and close by.

Leely, Gerard Mulot on the corner!! That is heaven too!

And Joan, thank you again, that class was truly the highlight of our trip.

Jo
ParisJo is offline  
Jun 21st, 2009, 01:49 PM
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I am enjoying reading your story,We were in Paris may 10-20th this year(the rainy week)but it 's still Paris,and we love it.Hoping to go back next year,this was our 5th trip,We would love to hear more about cooking classes at Spring.I just adore Paris,thanks for the information,
Elaine
lainie2285 is offline  
Jun 22nd, 2009, 06:52 AM
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tod
 
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Hi ParisJo, You did a brilliant job with the blog and it makes interesting reading paticularly since you went to so many of the places I'm describing in my trip report at the moment. (Were there from Fri 22nd - Sat 30th) We never saw the tennis court completed - are there any photos?
The apartments look terrific and maybe next time we'll consider that instead of a hotel, but I do like to move around.
tod is offline  
Jun 22nd, 2009, 09:04 AM
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Great report, ParisJo. The apt. looks so nice. Thierry seems great to work with. Maybe I'll try one of his studios one of these days, instead of hotel room.
Sue4 is offline  
Jun 22nd, 2009, 09:11 AM
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We enjoyed Le Fils de Saison when we were in Paris in 2007 for our 25th anniversary. We walked past it the first time because there was no sign. Good thing it is on a short street. Great report and I like your blog.
AGM_Cape_Cod is offline  
Jun 23rd, 2009, 06:52 PM
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Reading your blog took some of the pain out of several days spent home sick! In April I rented an apartment off Vielle de Temple for my 17 yr old g-daughter and myself, down the passage next to a bakery, probably about 3 blocks from where you describe your rental. I was so pleased with the location. Just off the Line 1 Metro which took us to most of what we wanted to see. And we loved the market at the Hotel d'Ville 2x a week. Thank you so much for your blog; it helped me relive our two weeks and made me realize I need to write my own "blog" if only to memorialize it for my g-daughter.
palette is offline  
Jun 23rd, 2009, 06:54 PM
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BTW, are we going to see any of those ever constant photographs your dh was taking?
palette is offline  
Jun 23rd, 2009, 07:08 PM
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Loved your report. Is the apartment in the 11th Luc's?
cigalechanta is offline  
Jun 24th, 2009, 03:19 AM
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Yes, that is Luc's apartment, what a wonderful oasis in the middle of the city. I'd love to rent it next fall.

I'm not sure how to post pictures here, can I just post them from my computer or do I have to upload them to another site like photobucket first?

Thanks for all the kind comments, I am a little bit adrift since coming back and not having Paris to look forward to in the near future, but reading all the great reports from Neely2 and Tod and others) helps a bit with my PPD (post Paris depression)

JO
ParisJo is offline  
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