Our Strasbourg Itinerary
Dec 21st, 2015, 03:24 PM
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I'm curious....what "value added" does the tour provide. You can very easily visit all the places on the tour (and they missed a few "biggies") - and I certainly would not want to be in Riquewihr around lunch time when it is mobbed with tourists. Are you visiting Alsace out of season?
Here is some excerpts from a longer Alsace itinerary I wrote about a decade ago.
Alsace
Alsace is one of the most beautiful places in France. In fact, the “Wine Spectator” ran a large expose on Alsace many years ago and called it the most beautiful wine growing region in the world. I would probably include the Mosel in this category, but Alsace has gobbled up more of my film per square mile than almost anywhere else in France (we spend 2 months every year in France). It’s kinda like Vermont with vineyards – dozens of picture postcard villages with church steeples sticking up above the houses, surrounded by vineyards, and backdropped by the Vosges mountains. There is also the very pretty town of Colmar, which I would have to rank in the top 5% of all the medium sized towns I’ve visited in France (perhaps #1 even), Strasbourg is one of my favorite large towns in France. We spent a week in a lovely Gite near Riquewihr last year and we’ve visited Alsace on 3 other occasions for a duration of 3-5 days on each visit. If I have any complaint about Alsace, it’s that there is not as much variety to the sites, villages, and countryside as I’ve seen in other areas of France. The villages in Alsace are almost too pretty to be real, but there are a lot of similarities to them. The Vosges are nice, but nothing like the Alps, Pyrenees, or the Cevannes. I would go there in early September, so that the geraniums that are everywhere will be in full bloom. One time we were there the last week of August, and we had no problems with crowds (I hate crowds).
We’re lucky enough to dine in France at least 30 times per year. We found the restaurants in Alsace to be excellent, in most cases. It’s very easy to avoid the pork & kraut, if that’s not your style. If you look at the red Michelin guide, there are more starred restaurants in Alsace than anywhere else in France (except Paris).
If you overnight in Strasbourg, we’ve stayed at the Gutenberg twice, and loved it. It’s small, centrally located, and not that expensive. It’s difficult to park nearby, however, since it’s on the fringe of the “pedestrian only” section. Take the walking tours described in the Michelin guide. I previously said I’m not a pork fan, but we dined at Chez Yvonne twice and enjoyed it. It’s a very popular brasserie serving traditional Alsace food in a rustic décor – reserve ahead. We’ve also dined at Maison Kammerzell, which is more upscale and located in one of the most beautiful buildings in Strasbourg. It was a Michelin 1 star, and the food was OK (we’ve had much better meals at other restaurants), but the main draw at this place is the décor.
The charm of Alsace is the countryside & cute villages. We’ve stayed in Oberni, Kayserberg twice, and in a Gite near Riquewihr. I would recommend that you stay in the Kayserberg/Riquewihr/Ribeauville area & take day trips from there. These villages are very close together & the area around the villages is stunning. The Route du Vin is a good road to use to visit all the villages, but it gets a lot of heavy truck traffic & there’s a little too much not-so-scenic commerce on it. There is a prettier and less traveled road that goes from village to village just west of the Route du Vin. It’s actually a very well marked bike route that is much more scenic than the Route du Vin. It probably doesn’t traverse the entire length of the Route du Vin, though. There are a lot of signposts along this route that indicate the direction to the next town, distances, etc. The best way to find this route is to go to Riquewihr & walk or drive around the perimeter of town until you find one of these signposts – it’s actually quite easy to find this route.
Villages not to miss are Oberni, Ribeauville, Riquewihr, Kayserberg, and Eguisheim. There are ramparts around Bergheim and its fun to walk on the top of them & circle the village, looking down into everyone’s back yard. There is a very nice lookout in the town of Zellenberg. Go up into the village & try to find it. There is a viewing table there that’s a little hard to locate, but worth the effort. There is also a very scenic lookout in a cemetery just outside of Sigolsheim – it’s marked on the Michelin map. Hike up to the old Chateau above Kayserberg in the early AM or late PM to get some wonderful views. Visit Haut Koenigsbourg. We really enjoyed the Ecomusee d’Alsace, although I’m usually not a fan of this “Williamsburg” type of stuff. It’s a collection of old houses that gives an insight into housing in the different periods & rural areas of Alsace. There are a lot of storks nesting on the roofs of the buildings in this Ecomusee. The Beauville linens factory & 2nds store is just west of Ribeauville on the road to Ste Marie aux Mines, but expect no bargains.
As I said earlier, Colmar is a gem. Follow the walking route indicated in the Michelin green guide. My wife purchased some wonderful lace in this town. We enjoyed the Musee d’Unterlinden. Spend a ½ day at least in Colmar. It’s easy to drive in & out & parking is no hassle. Stores may be closed on Sunday and Monday.
Here’s a pretty drive through some villages, and then into the Vosges. Head south of Colmar going through the villages of Eguisheim (spend several hours in this village – one of our favorites), Husseren, Hattstat, Gueberschwihr, Rouffach, Westhalten, Bergholtz, and then Guebwiller (visit). Then drive to Murbach to see a nice church in a pretty setting. Take the D430 west through Lautenbach and further until it hits the D27. Take the D27 north over the Col du Platzerwasel toward Munster. Continue on to Munster (D27 changes to D10). Stop & wander around in Munster (of cheese fame). Continue on the D10 to Turckheim (visit).
A farther away trip:
Visit Wissembourg and take the walking tour described in the Michelin Green guide. Then follow drive #3 described in the VOSGES DU NORD section of the Michelin guide. This will take you to Chateau de Fleckenstein, Lembach, Hunspach, & Seebach. In these latter two villages, the houses are half-timbered & painted white – it’s quite a contrast from other villages in Alsace. If you want to see how France attempted to defend itself from the Germans and Russsians after WWI, visit a section of the Maginot line at Four-a-Chaux just outside of Lembach. We enjoyed the tour of underground fortifications, hospitals, barracks, etc.
Restaurants.
Maximilien at the base of Zellenberg was our favorite. The ambience was very relaxed (we had to talk in a whisper) and the setting was lovely. This is a Michelin 1 star restaurant and the food was supurb. Auberge du Schoenbourg in Riquewihr was also excellent. It is a Michlein 1 star. We did not like Table du Gourmet, also in Riquewihr (also a 1 star). I had a very sloppy presentation of overcooked Sandre on a bed of scalloped potatoes (very unimaginative). My wife’s dish also did not please her. We dined at Auberge de Norbert in Bergheim, which was excellent. In Colmar, we dined at the Maison des Tetes, which is one of the most photographed buildings in the City. Our dinner was only so-so and the service was painfully slow (we usually spend at least 2 ½ hrs at dinner).
Stu Dudley
Here is some excerpts from a longer Alsace itinerary I wrote about a decade ago.
Alsace
Alsace is one of the most beautiful places in France. In fact, the “Wine Spectator” ran a large expose on Alsace many years ago and called it the most beautiful wine growing region in the world. I would probably include the Mosel in this category, but Alsace has gobbled up more of my film per square mile than almost anywhere else in France (we spend 2 months every year in France). It’s kinda like Vermont with vineyards – dozens of picture postcard villages with church steeples sticking up above the houses, surrounded by vineyards, and backdropped by the Vosges mountains. There is also the very pretty town of Colmar, which I would have to rank in the top 5% of all the medium sized towns I’ve visited in France (perhaps #1 even), Strasbourg is one of my favorite large towns in France. We spent a week in a lovely Gite near Riquewihr last year and we’ve visited Alsace on 3 other occasions for a duration of 3-5 days on each visit. If I have any complaint about Alsace, it’s that there is not as much variety to the sites, villages, and countryside as I’ve seen in other areas of France. The villages in Alsace are almost too pretty to be real, but there are a lot of similarities to them. The Vosges are nice, but nothing like the Alps, Pyrenees, or the Cevannes. I would go there in early September, so that the geraniums that are everywhere will be in full bloom. One time we were there the last week of August, and we had no problems with crowds (I hate crowds).
We’re lucky enough to dine in France at least 30 times per year. We found the restaurants in Alsace to be excellent, in most cases. It’s very easy to avoid the pork & kraut, if that’s not your style. If you look at the red Michelin guide, there are more starred restaurants in Alsace than anywhere else in France (except Paris).
If you overnight in Strasbourg, we’ve stayed at the Gutenberg twice, and loved it. It’s small, centrally located, and not that expensive. It’s difficult to park nearby, however, since it’s on the fringe of the “pedestrian only” section. Take the walking tours described in the Michelin guide. I previously said I’m not a pork fan, but we dined at Chez Yvonne twice and enjoyed it. It’s a very popular brasserie serving traditional Alsace food in a rustic décor – reserve ahead. We’ve also dined at Maison Kammerzell, which is more upscale and located in one of the most beautiful buildings in Strasbourg. It was a Michelin 1 star, and the food was OK (we’ve had much better meals at other restaurants), but the main draw at this place is the décor.
The charm of Alsace is the countryside & cute villages. We’ve stayed in Oberni, Kayserberg twice, and in a Gite near Riquewihr. I would recommend that you stay in the Kayserberg/Riquewihr/Ribeauville area & take day trips from there. These villages are very close together & the area around the villages is stunning. The Route du Vin is a good road to use to visit all the villages, but it gets a lot of heavy truck traffic & there’s a little too much not-so-scenic commerce on it. There is a prettier and less traveled road that goes from village to village just west of the Route du Vin. It’s actually a very well marked bike route that is much more scenic than the Route du Vin. It probably doesn’t traverse the entire length of the Route du Vin, though. There are a lot of signposts along this route that indicate the direction to the next town, distances, etc. The best way to find this route is to go to Riquewihr & walk or drive around the perimeter of town until you find one of these signposts – it’s actually quite easy to find this route.
Villages not to miss are Oberni, Ribeauville, Riquewihr, Kayserberg, and Eguisheim. There are ramparts around Bergheim and its fun to walk on the top of them & circle the village, looking down into everyone’s back yard. There is a very nice lookout in the town of Zellenberg. Go up into the village & try to find it. There is a viewing table there that’s a little hard to locate, but worth the effort. There is also a very scenic lookout in a cemetery just outside of Sigolsheim – it’s marked on the Michelin map. Hike up to the old Chateau above Kayserberg in the early AM or late PM to get some wonderful views. Visit Haut Koenigsbourg. We really enjoyed the Ecomusee d’Alsace, although I’m usually not a fan of this “Williamsburg” type of stuff. It’s a collection of old houses that gives an insight into housing in the different periods & rural areas of Alsace. There are a lot of storks nesting on the roofs of the buildings in this Ecomusee. The Beauville linens factory & 2nds store is just west of Ribeauville on the road to Ste Marie aux Mines, but expect no bargains.
As I said earlier, Colmar is a gem. Follow the walking route indicated in the Michelin green guide. My wife purchased some wonderful lace in this town. We enjoyed the Musee d’Unterlinden. Spend a ½ day at least in Colmar. It’s easy to drive in & out & parking is no hassle. Stores may be closed on Sunday and Monday.
Here’s a pretty drive through some villages, and then into the Vosges. Head south of Colmar going through the villages of Eguisheim (spend several hours in this village – one of our favorites), Husseren, Hattstat, Gueberschwihr, Rouffach, Westhalten, Bergholtz, and then Guebwiller (visit). Then drive to Murbach to see a nice church in a pretty setting. Take the D430 west through Lautenbach and further until it hits the D27. Take the D27 north over the Col du Platzerwasel toward Munster. Continue on to Munster (D27 changes to D10). Stop & wander around in Munster (of cheese fame). Continue on the D10 to Turckheim (visit).
A farther away trip:
Visit Wissembourg and take the walking tour described in the Michelin Green guide. Then follow drive #3 described in the VOSGES DU NORD section of the Michelin guide. This will take you to Chateau de Fleckenstein, Lembach, Hunspach, & Seebach. In these latter two villages, the houses are half-timbered & painted white – it’s quite a contrast from other villages in Alsace. If you want to see how France attempted to defend itself from the Germans and Russsians after WWI, visit a section of the Maginot line at Four-a-Chaux just outside of Lembach. We enjoyed the tour of underground fortifications, hospitals, barracks, etc.
Restaurants.
Maximilien at the base of Zellenberg was our favorite. The ambience was very relaxed (we had to talk in a whisper) and the setting was lovely. This is a Michelin 1 star restaurant and the food was supurb. Auberge du Schoenbourg in Riquewihr was also excellent. It is a Michlein 1 star. We did not like Table du Gourmet, also in Riquewihr (also a 1 star). I had a very sloppy presentation of overcooked Sandre on a bed of scalloped potatoes (very unimaginative). My wife’s dish also did not please her. We dined at Auberge de Norbert in Bergheim, which was excellent. In Colmar, we dined at the Maison des Tetes, which is one of the most photographed buildings in the City. Our dinner was only so-so and the service was painfully slow (we usually spend at least 2 ½ hrs at dinner).
Stu Dudley
Dec 21st, 2015, 05:06 PM
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Hello Stu,
You've certainly given me a lot of great info to digest.
Strangely enough we are people who really enjoy small group guided tours for many reasons. One reason is we like getting the history of whatever we are looking at. We enjoy hearing the details and the backstory.
Two, the Mr has said he misses a lot if he's the driver and has to concentrate on the road. Its more relaxing to ride, look out the window, and listen to the guide talk about what we are passing.
Three, we've never gotten lost on a guided tour. I guess we are directionally challenged but we tend to get lost wherever we go. If you are married you know what that stress usually leads to ... #Grin
However I enjoyed reading your above account and have a few questions.
How straight forward is the route you followed? In other words is it 'idiot proof'? #Grin
Two, does the Michelin Guide provide any details about historic buildings and sites?
Three, if we were to follow your route I am assuming we would start in Strasbourg but sleep in a different village each night? Also, we saw a Rick Steves piece on PBS that showed parking to be tricky in some of these villages.
Again, thanks for a great read. I am more excited then ever about seeing beautiful Alsace. Hopefully we will have an opportunity to dine in some of the restaurants you mentioned.
P.S. Our trip will be in June 2016 so definitely nit low season.
You've certainly given me a lot of great info to digest.
Strangely enough we are people who really enjoy small group guided tours for many reasons. One reason is we like getting the history of whatever we are looking at. We enjoy hearing the details and the backstory.
Two, the Mr has said he misses a lot if he's the driver and has to concentrate on the road. Its more relaxing to ride, look out the window, and listen to the guide talk about what we are passing.
Three, we've never gotten lost on a guided tour. I guess we are directionally challenged but we tend to get lost wherever we go. If you are married you know what that stress usually leads to ... #Grin
However I enjoyed reading your above account and have a few questions.
How straight forward is the route you followed? In other words is it 'idiot proof'? #Grin
Two, does the Michelin Guide provide any details about historic buildings and sites?
Three, if we were to follow your route I am assuming we would start in Strasbourg but sleep in a different village each night? Also, we saw a Rick Steves piece on PBS that showed parking to be tricky in some of these villages.
Again, thanks for a great read. I am more excited then ever about seeing beautiful Alsace. Hopefully we will have an opportunity to dine in some of the restaurants you mentioned.
P.S. Our trip will be in June 2016 so definitely nit low season.
Dec 21st, 2015, 06:19 PM
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If you rent a car for 3 days (really good advice imo) make sure your hotel offers parking. There are many charming places to stay along the wine route.
With your rental car, keep in mind that when you visit Strasbourg find a park and ride, it's really inexpensive to leave your car there while you go into the city. The parking includes your tram fare.
http://www.cts-strasbourg.eu/en/gett...park-and-ride/
We stayed in a little gite for a week this past fall, have a great vacation.
I loved Obernai and Mont Sainte Odile
With your rental car, keep in mind that when you visit Strasbourg find a park and ride, it's really inexpensive to leave your car there while you go into the city. The parking includes your tram fare.
http://www.cts-strasbourg.eu/en/gett...park-and-ride/
We stayed in a little gite for a week this past fall, have a great vacation.
I loved Obernai and Mont Sainte Odile
Dec 21st, 2015, 10:35 PM
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"Strangely enough we are people who really enjoy small group guided tours for many reasons. One reason is we like getting the history of whatever we are looking at. We enjoy hearing the details and the backstory".
I'm with you on that one.
Great information - we are considering visiting the area in 2017. Is it easy cycling for very rusty cyclists?
I'm with you on that one.
Great information - we are considering visiting the area in 2017. Is it easy cycling for very rusty cyclists?
Dec 22nd, 2015, 04:51 AM
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It makes sense to pick up the car when we leave Strasbourg since that will be our starting and ending point. Thanks Kerouac.
I also appreciate all the other advice. By giving me all the options, I will be in a better position to figure out what will work best for us.
I keep meaning to ask, what is a gite?
Good luck Stevelyon with both your planning and the cycling.
I also appreciate all the other advice. By giving me all the options, I will be in a better position to figure out what will work best for us.
I keep meaning to ask, what is a gite?
Good luck Stevelyon with both your planning and the cycling.
Dec 22nd, 2015, 07:29 AM
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Gite basically means a place to stay.
We have still this expression 'donner le gite et le couvert' Thatcher translater into giving a roof and food.
Gite now describes tourist accommodation by small owners for a stay of usually several days.
For shorter stays we would talk about 'maison d'hote' which translates better into b&b.
You have lots of these places on gitedefrance.com
Keep language to French it seems if you select English you drop all the places that didn't put an ad in English.
Mcg
We have still this expression 'donner le gite et le couvert' Thatcher translater into giving a roof and food.
Gite now describes tourist accommodation by small owners for a stay of usually several days.
For shorter stays we would talk about 'maison d'hote' which translates better into b&b.
You have lots of these places on gitedefrance.com
Keep language to French it seems if you select English you drop all the places that didn't put an ad in English.
Mcg
Dec 22nd, 2015, 07:47 AM
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>>However I enjoyed reading your above account and have a few questions.
How straight forward is the route you followed? In other words is it 'idiot proof'? #Grin<<
The Route des Vins is perhaps the easiest route to follow in France. Just 1 road running north & south connecting all with wonderful villages. Colmar is easy to access too - you drive to a huge parking lot, park, and you'll into the village.
>>Two, does the Michelin Guide provide any details about historic buildings and sites?<<
Yep?
Stasbourg is covered in 12 pages. There are 2 maps of Strasbourg, with two detailed walking itineraries. Layout of the cathedral with about 4 pages of text. Notable museums are described - with opening and closing times. Also suggestions for cafes & restaurants.
Haute Koenigsbourg is covered in 1 1/2 pages - including a map. Oberni is covered in 2 pages including a map with a walking itinerary & description of sites along the way. Colmar is covered in 8 pages with map & walking itinerary, Riquewihr in 3 pages with map & walking itinerary, Route des Vins in 7 pages with map & driving itinerary. Etc, etc, etc.
>>Three, if we were to follow your route I am assuming we would start in Strasbourg but sleep in a different village each night? Also, we saw a Rick Steves piece on PBS that showed parking to be tricky in some of these villages.<<
Rick Steves does a horrible job with France, IMO. I think all the info comes from Steve Smith. Steves does a better job in Italy, and especially Budapest. We never found parking to be a problem. Get to the most popular villages (Riquewihr) early in the morning - or stay in the viilage at night
You can stay in one location on the Route des Vins & visit everything by car. The villages are very close together. However, if you don't mind one-nighters, stay in Oberni for 1 night & Kayserburg for another night - or two.
Gites are self-catering houses - with full kitchens, dining room/LR, multiple bedrooms, washing machine, garden, and sometimes a private swimming pool. We've rented 65 of them for 105 weeks - we usually stay in one gite for 2 weeks at a time.
Here is a write-up I did a few years ago
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...e-web-site.cfm
Stu Dudley
How straight forward is the route you followed? In other words is it 'idiot proof'? #Grin<<
The Route des Vins is perhaps the easiest route to follow in France. Just 1 road running north & south connecting all with wonderful villages. Colmar is easy to access too - you drive to a huge parking lot, park, and you'll into the village.
>>Two, does the Michelin Guide provide any details about historic buildings and sites?<<
Yep?
Stasbourg is covered in 12 pages. There are 2 maps of Strasbourg, with two detailed walking itineraries. Layout of the cathedral with about 4 pages of text. Notable museums are described - with opening and closing times. Also suggestions for cafes & restaurants.
Haute Koenigsbourg is covered in 1 1/2 pages - including a map. Oberni is covered in 2 pages including a map with a walking itinerary & description of sites along the way. Colmar is covered in 8 pages with map & walking itinerary, Riquewihr in 3 pages with map & walking itinerary, Route des Vins in 7 pages with map & driving itinerary. Etc, etc, etc.
>>Three, if we were to follow your route I am assuming we would start in Strasbourg but sleep in a different village each night? Also, we saw a Rick Steves piece on PBS that showed parking to be tricky in some of these villages.<<
Rick Steves does a horrible job with France, IMO. I think all the info comes from Steve Smith. Steves does a better job in Italy, and especially Budapest. We never found parking to be a problem. Get to the most popular villages (Riquewihr) early in the morning - or stay in the viilage at night
You can stay in one location on the Route des Vins & visit everything by car. The villages are very close together. However, if you don't mind one-nighters, stay in Oberni for 1 night & Kayserburg for another night - or two.
Gites are self-catering houses - with full kitchens, dining room/LR, multiple bedrooms, washing machine, garden, and sometimes a private swimming pool. We've rented 65 of them for 105 weeks - we usually stay in one gite for 2 weeks at a time.
Here is a write-up I did a few years ago
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...e-web-site.cfm
Stu Dudley
Dec 22nd, 2015, 12:13 PM
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Is it easy cycling for very rusty cyclists?>
Yes - IME of biking from Strasbourg to Colmar thence along the wine road to the German border and beyond - the roads are twisting but fairly flat as the twists between inclines - as Stu Dudley says easy to follow and a gorgeous road - don't bike and drink too much though!
Yes - IME of biking from Strasbourg to Colmar thence along the wine road to the German border and beyond - the roads are twisting but fairly flat as the twists between inclines - as Stu Dudley says easy to follow and a gorgeous road - don't bike and drink too much though!
Dec 22nd, 2015, 02:40 PM
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Thanks Stu for your detailed response. I just looked on AMAZON for a Michelin Guide but could only find French versions. I will keep looking for a copy. It sounds like a book I would enjoy studying.
A gite sounds very nice!
A gite sounds very nice!
Dec 22nd, 2015, 02:48 PM
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Dec 22nd, 2015, 02:59 PM
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This is the gite we stayed in while in Alsace. It is actually in a winery and surrounded by vineyards. Perfect location.
http://www.gites-de-france.com/locat...4-68G3774.html
Stu Dudley
http://www.gites-de-france.com/locat...4-68G3774.html
Stu Dudley
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