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-   -   Our SPECTACULAR Scottish Journey!!! (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/our-spectacular-scottish-journey-1716080/)

janisj Jul 13th, 2023 12:04 PM

Been to Alnwick twice since the Gardens were opened. . . . no fainting that I saw ;)

geetika Jul 13th, 2023 12:25 PM


Originally Posted by janisj (Post 17478925)
Been to Alnwick twice since the Gardens were opened. . . . no fainting that I saw ;)

Karen, no fainting at Blarney either, have been there two times and spent a while reading the notices with the different plants and herbs. Most interesting, IMO

An added incentive now to visit Alnwick, in 2025 hopefully…

KarenWoo Jul 13th, 2023 03:49 PM

JUNE 3, 2023: A DETOUR TO ROSSLYN CHAPEL, AND THEN ONWARDS TO ANSTRUTHER FISHING VILLAGE

Our hotel called a taxi for us, a big taxi that holds 4 passengers and all their luggage, to bring us to the airport to pick up our rental car. Some people (I forgot who) recommended that we pick up our rental car at the airport so we don’t have to drive in Edinburgh. Good idea! I rented an automatic car from Kemwel/AutoEurope who I have been using for years. They are a broker; our rental was actually with Europcar. Unfortunately, when we arrived at the office and the employee saw the 4 of us and all our luggage, she told us the car we reserved didn’t have a large enough trunk for our luggage. We looked at the trunk and realized she was right. So we had to upgrade to a larger car at an additional expense, of course! After we paid the additional fee, we were off to Rosslyn Chapel.

I know this is a detour and in the opposite direction of the Fife Coast, but while we were in Edinburgh, my husband decided he really wanted to see Rosslyn Chapel since we both read the book and saw the movie The Da Vinci Code.

Regarding driving in Scotland, Ed and Joanne volunteered to be the designated drivers! -😊 I don’t like driving in foreign countries, and I did all the trip planning and making the reservations, so I was relieved and happy to be only a passenger. They both agreed it didn’t take them long to get used to driving on the left. The main issue at the beginning of our trip were navigating the roundabouts, especially around Edinburgh.

Rosslyn Chapel is beautiful and filled with ornate carvings on the outside and the inside. According to what I read, there are many different versions as to what the carvings symbolize. It was about a 20-minute ride from the airport so not too much out of our way and well worth it. There is a lovely outdoor café where we had lunch before we set off for Anstruther on the Fife Coast.

We checked into our accommodations for the next 2 nights, the Waterfront Inn on Shore Street in Anstruther, directly across the street from the harbor and marina. We really like this inn. Our rooms were spacious, clean, and looked like they were recently updated. The rooms are in the back and the restaurant is in the front. The rate included a delicious breakfast in the restaurant where we could order off the menu. So it was nice to have a change from buffets.

Anstruther felt very festive as they were holding their annual music and craft festival, held the first weekend of June every year. The crowds were not oppressive; we enjoyed the music, and I bought gifts from the vendors.

We had dinner reservations at The Ship Inn in Elie. They provide a complimentary “designated driver” service to guests staying within 5 miles or so, so we took advantage of this, even though we aren’t big drinkers. We typically have 1 or 2 alcoholic beverages with dinner. (Anything more than that and I would be under the table:)) This is a great restaurant that overlooks Elie Bay so you have beautiful views along with delicious meals. We all ordered Cullen skink as starters and it is to die for! So tasty, and I think the best Cullen skink we had on our trip. Ed and I ordered grilled lemon sole, Joanne had cod fillet, and Roger ordered Pittenweem lobster that came with beetroot gnocchi. The hilarious thing is that his lobster was the most expensive meal on the menu and initially looked like it came with tons of lobster because the red gnocchi looks like lobster. Then he realized it was the gnocchi and he actually got very little lobster meat! Our meal ended with a spectacular dessert that we all shared because we were so full: chocolate cremeux. So, a wonderful beginning to our visit to the Fife Coast!

KarenWoo Jul 13th, 2023 03:54 PM

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...08301b587.jpeg
Rosslyn Chapel - became famous because of The Da Vinci Code
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3f0565231.jpeg
Interior of Rosslyn Chapel
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...71dbb5884.jpeg
Rosslyn Chapel

KarenWoo Jul 13th, 2023 04:05 PM

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c4785ba84.jpeg
Another view of Rosslyn Chapel
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...30ece4d6a1.jpg
Shore Street in Anstruther. The Waterfront Inn is the white building with the black awning.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bcdb02296.jpeg
Anstruther
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0949b45ae.jpeg
Anstruther harbor with the craft festival vendors in the background
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...46f0bcd6a.jpeg
Anstruther marina
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2bf89903e.jpeg
Anstruther marina
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b0894efb8.jpeg
Anstruther scene
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ada683353.jpeg
Anstruther
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...db6accde5.jpeg
Anstruther coast
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0ce046de4.jpeg
Funny sign - they knew we were coming!

KarenWoo Jul 13th, 2023 04:11 PM

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c5ee1e66b.jpeg
Elie Bay
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c19b688eb.jpeg
The Ship Inn in Elie
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...71e96a9dd.jpeg
View from the Ship Inn
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...77dc78856.jpeg
Cullen Skink - Simply Delicious!!!
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...767f240d9.jpeg
Grilled Lemon Sole
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...44c86d208.jpeg
Chocolate Cremeux

KarenWoo Jul 13th, 2023 04:14 PM

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e25bd15c6.jpeg
And one more photo of the craft festival

KarenWoo Jul 13th, 2023 05:15 PM

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7b49ca5df.jpeg
Traditional full Scottish breakast
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...433b193b2.jpeg
Avocado Toast
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Eggs Benedict with smoked salmon
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e3fd63c94a.jpg
Chariots of Fire Race in St. Andrews
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...530428f21.jpeg
St. Andrews - by the beach
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a69792f6a.jpeg
St. Andrews coastal scene
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...88308243b.jpeg
Chariots of Fire race
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b0a337ac9.jpeg
Chariots of Fire race
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...157ae6462.jpeg
Ruins of St. Andrews castle
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9e38dd0b4.jpeg
St. Andrews - along the coast
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8c01a5e27.jpeg
Ruins of St. Andrews cathedral
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f0d2e9bb7.jpeg
Ruins of St. Andrews cathedral
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b30bd7db3.jpeg
Another photo of St. Andrews cathedral

KarenWoo Jul 13th, 2023 05:32 PM

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bfa7715e8d.jpg
And next up is the pretty fishing village of Crail!
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cd106d692.jpeg
Crail's pretty harbor
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0fc6d7ba2.jpeg
Another view of the harbor
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fd594c9d0.jpeg
Getting the boat ready to take out on the water
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...592e5a9d2.jpeg
Taking the boat out on the water
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...29ae21f6e.jpeg
Our "Oyster" ice cream treat!
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...acdf98ce6.jpeg
Crail street scene
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...86bbe1509.jpeg
Another Crail street scene
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...083303c72.jpeg
Beautiful scenery
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...545dd0051.jpeg
Lupines along the Fife Coastal Path
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a5c7908a3c.jpg
The lovely Fife Coastal Path
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...37b3cb53cd.jpg
Another view of the coastal path
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2afc0870ac.jpg
Pretty Crail coastal scene
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...31056951e.jpeg
We all ordered the fish and chips - delicious! Probably the best battered fish on the trip.

zebec Jul 13th, 2023 06:02 PM

A Craft Fest always gives added value to a visit, doesn't it Karen?
Love that shot of the 'Ship Inn'.
I remember the various Crail shots in the (was it Starrs?) original 'Vacation Photos' thread back during the start of covid.

I am done. the golden hour

janisj Jul 13th, 2023 06:52 PM

Great pictures. OOH -- I can taste the Anstruther Fish Bar fish&chips. One of my favorite places to eat in Fife.

In Crail - the whitewashed bldg with the flags on the left side of the road down to the harbor is a cute little gallery/cafe with a sun trap terrace out back looking out across the water.

Recognize every view . . . trod all the same places having stayed in Crail maybe 4 or 5 times over the years plus Kilconquhar twice, Pittenweem once, St Andrews once and Peat Inn once. Good times

KarenWoo Jul 13th, 2023 07:00 PM

Just realized that I forgot to post my description of what we did on June 4, the day we explored St. Andrews and Crail. So here it is!

JUNE 4, 2023: EXPLORING THE FIFE COAST


Our breakfasts this morning were so delicious! We all really liked what we ordered.

Our goal for today was to explore the Fife Coast starting with St. Andrews. But first, while we walking to the public parking lot to get our car, we walked through the festival vendors and passed the herring catcher boat, named the Reaper, from the Fisheries Museum. During the festival weekend, the museum was allowing people to tour the boat for free. It was very, very interesting and we learned how hard life was on the boat. They went out to sea for a long time and slept in very, very close quarters. I would be so claustrophobic and seasick! This was a popular job for women, too, because they made a lot of money. Unfortunately, we didn’t make the time to visit the museum because the weather was gorgeous and we wanted to be outside as much as possible. And we simply didn’t have the time. An extra day would have been nice.

Our first stop of the day was St. Andrews, where we happened upon the start of the Chariots of Fire Race! I can’t believe I have never seen this movie. I need to rectify that. From here, we walked along the coast and past the castle ruins and then the cathedral ruins. We didn’t pay to go inside because we already had tickets to see other castle and cathedral ruins. But the setting is lovely along the coast.

From St. Andrews we continued on to the very pretty fishing village of Crail. We walked around, then had lunch at a seaside shack (Reilly Shellfish) and ate crab salad sandwiches outdoors on a picnic table. After lunch, we wandered around and came across a small ice cream place serving ice cream from their window. We all ordered a delicious ice cream treat that I believe is called “Oyster” because it looks like an oyster. It’s vanilla ice cream sandwiched between 2 light flaky crusts that are covered in chocolate and sprinkled with shredded coconut. This was to die for!!!

Then from here we found the entrance to the Fife Coastal Path, which is a Scottish walking path that follows the coast and is about 116 miles long. You can walk it in sections. We only had time to walk on the path for about 20 minutes. The scenery is so beautiful and so spectacular. I love it! It would be wonderful to have the time to spend hours walking the path between the fishing villages, such as from Anstruther to Crail, for instance.
Tonight we did not have dinner reservations because we wanted to have dinner at the Anstruther Fish Bar, and they don’t take reservations. Luckily, we only had to wait about 15-20 minutes. We all ordered fish and chips, and we all loved the fish. The batter is light and the fish is so fresh. We were disappointed in the fries (chips), however. Cole slaw came with the meal and we didn’t care for the cole slaw either because it was way too creamy for us. We noticed this in other restaurants, too. The Anstruther Fish Bar has a smart set-up; you pay for your meal at their ice cream counter!!! So of course, we all ordered ice cream cones for our dessert! A great end to another wonderful day in Scotland!

KarenWoo Jul 14th, 2023 06:34 AM


Originally Posted by zebec (Post 17479018)
A Craft Fest always gives added value to a visit, doesn't it Karen?
Love that shot of the 'Ship Inn'.
I remember the various Crail shots in the (was it Starrs?) original 'Vacation Photos' thread back during the start of covid.

I am done. the golden hour

zebec, I agree that craft and musical festivals add so much more to a visit. And this one wasn’t rowdy or overly loud.

KarenWoo Jul 14th, 2023 06:37 AM


Originally Posted by janisj (Post 17479021)
Great pictures. OOH -- I can taste the Anstruther Fish Bar fish&chips. One of my favorite places to eat in Fife.

In Crail - the whitewashed bldg with the flags on the left side of the road down to the harbor is a cute little gallery/cafe with a sun trap terrace out back looking out across the water.

Recognize every view . . . trod all the same places having stayed in Crail maybe 4 or 5 times over the years plus Kilconquhar twice, Pittenweem once, St Andrews once and Peat Inn once. Good times

janisj, so happy to know that our photos are bringing back nice memories for you.

I added the description of what we did in St. Andrews and crail. It’s post #72.

memejs Jul 14th, 2023 02:14 PM

Yay, I've been looking forward to this report!

"You have to compromise when traveling with other people, and we are not good at compromising on our vacations."
I had to laugh at this because I feel the same way. I'm spending too much money to compromise on vacation, which is why there are only a few people I'm willing to travel on big trips with.

I'm so glad you had such spectacular weather. I think the warmest days I had were the days I was in covid quarantine!

yestravel Jul 14th, 2023 03:28 PM

[QUOTE=memejs;17479300]Yay, I've been looking forward to this report!

"You have to compromise when traveling with other people, and we are not good at compromising on our vacations."
I had to laugh at this because I feel the same way. I'm spending too much money to compromise on vacation, which is why there are only a few people I'm willing to travel on big trips with."
Couldnt agree more --

Beautiful photos, Karen. Exploring areas we didnt visit, so paying close attention.



KarenWoo Jul 14th, 2023 03:34 PM

JUNE 5, 2023: LUNCH IN PITLOCHRY, THE SCOTTISH HIGHLANDS, A FUNERAL BRIDGE, AND ARRIVING IN NAIRN

After another delicious breakfast at the Waterfront Inn, we set off for our long drive to Nairn, which is about 30 minutes from Inverness. Thanks to janisj for suggesting staying in Nairn instead of busy commercial Inverness! We loved staying in Nairn; it’s a very pretty seaside town; close to the sites we wanted to visit, and has many good restaurants. All the restaurants we had reservations at are in walking distance of our accommodations.

A friend of mine suggested we stop in Pitlochry on the way for lunch. We had a very nice lunch at Victoria’s Restaurant. After lunch we took a short walk across the bridge (we needed to walk off some of our food!) that spans the River Tummel. Pitlochry makes for a nice lunch stop but I wasn’t overly impressed with it and probably would not spend a night here.

Our next stop was the Old Packhorse Bridge (AKA as the Coffin Bridge) in Carrbridge. This bridge was built in 1717 and it’s known locally as the Coffin Bridge because it was built to allow funeral processions to get to Duthil Church when the River Dulnain was overflowing. It’s not in use today. In fact, there is a sign warning people not to walk across it.

On the way to Nairn, we passed beautiful Scottish Highland scenery with grazing sheep and yellow witch’s broom everywhere.

Our accommodations for the next 3 nights are at the Sunny Brae B&B. We love this place; it’s our favorite of all the places we stayed at. The rooms are very pretty and spacious. In fact, our room had a sitting area. The views are beautiful overlooking a gorgeous park and the Moray Firth. There is a common sunroom where we had drinks every night before dinner. Rachel and John, the owners, are wonderful. The rate includes cooked hot breakfasts; you can order from a menu. John is the chef!

Our dinner this evening is at the Bandstand Restaurant, about a 5-minute walk from Sunny Brae. It’s one of our favorite restaurants. We ordered Cullen skink again for our starters. Superb! Just as good as the Ship Inn. I had steak and Ale Pie with the best chips; Joanne had duck; and the men had venison. The four of us shared another delicious Sticky Toffee Pudding, which is just as good as the one at Café Royal in Edinburgh.

KarenWoo Jul 14th, 2023 03:41 PM

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7f0c26cf1.jpeg
My lunch at Victoria's restaurant - prawn and avocado open sandwich
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3867999ae.jpeg
I don't remember whose lunch this is -:) I took only 2 photos of our lunches
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2b81978a0.jpeg
Flowers at the Victoria's Restaurant
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7f289dcb6.jpeg
Bridge in Pitlochry
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...654a8460f.jpeg
Lovely view from the bridge in Pitlochry

KarenWoo Jul 14th, 2023 03:45 PM

Coffin Bridgehttps://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8171458ce.jpeg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...afdf150b5.jpeg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8422be0a6.jpeg
Yellow Witches Broomhttps://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e878962e9.jpeg

KarenWoo Jul 14th, 2023 04:01 PM

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...966cb3cb9.jpeg
and more sheep
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...99ed3d4e2.jpeg
Sunny Brae Bed and Breakfast
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0ad7e3110.jpeg
Sunroom at Sunny Brae
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e92598b61.jpeg
Park across the street from Sunny Brae
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8aee940a3.jpeg
View from Sunny Brae
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d8ad3bef9.jpeg
Our bathroom


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