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The Bandstand's Menu https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d3c8ea4a4.jpeg Weird wallpaper in The Bandstand's dining room https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1b6bd82f4.jpeg Delicious Cullen Skink https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...095386de7.jpeg My Steak and Ale Pie https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6eb9f3999.jpeg I think this is the venison? https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...942eedf35.jpeg Duck https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8be0be99c.jpeg Sticky Toffee Pudding - as good as the pudding at Cafe Royal in Edinburgh |
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And last but not least, the Coffin Bridge https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...318ba8fac.jpeg And the Scottish Highlands |
"Sticky Toffee Pudding - as good as the pudding at Cafe Royal in Edinburgh"
Now you're just taunting me. (: |
Yestravel, I see that you are planning a trip to Ireland for next year. Sounds awesome! It’s on our bucket list hopefully in 3 or 4 years from now.
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Following along and making notes. All your pictures are wonderful.
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Loving this trip report, Karen! When we were in Scotland in 2019 we stayed in Crail, but managed to visit Anstruther for the fish and chips. We also had a snack at the cafe janisj mentions. I felt somewhat the same about Pitlochary. We did stay the night because I wanted my husband to have a break from driving as we were coming down from Nairn. We managed to drive to the Queen’s View which may or may not be named after Queen Victoria, which was gorgeous and also visit Blair Athol. Chariot’s of Fire is one of my husband’s and mine’s favorite movies. We were in St. Andrews, but stupid me didn’t realize that’s the beach the opening run was shot on. We were so close to that beach. We did manage on that trip to visit a statue of Eric Liddell, the hero of that movie, at the University of Edinburgh. His Olympic medals are displayed there also. I love the detail in your TR. Scotland is magnificent and your writings bring back many great memories.
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OMG, the stick toffee puddings!!!
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idesofmarch, thank you for your kind words and your comments about your trip. I enjoy hearing about other people's trips to the same place.
tripplanner001, the sticky toffee puddings are delicious! pagngo, thank you for your compliments. Some of the photos are my husband's and some are mine. |
Originally Posted by memejs
(Post 17479300)
Yay, I've been looking forward to this report!
"You have to compromise when traveling with other people, and we are not good at compromising on our vacations." I had to laugh at this because I feel the same way. I'm spending too much money to compromise on vacation, which is why there are only a few people I'm willing to travel on big trips with. I'm so glad you had such spectacular weather. I think the warmest days I had were the days I was in covid quarantine! Coincidentally, I tested positive for Covid Thursday night. I can't believe it. The first time; thought I had beaten it. And we had our last booster this past April. But if it weren't for the vaccines, I would probably be in the hospital or worse. What I feel really bad about is that I might have had Covid while in Texas visiting our grandchildren and I didn't know it. Four days after we returned home from Scotland, we flew to DFW to visit our daughter, son-in-law and grandchildren who very recently relocated from France to Texas for their jobs. We returned home this past Monday. During the last few days of our stay, I woke up each morning with a headache and very mild sore throat. Took Aleve and was fine, so I thought nothing of it. Then no symptoms for a few days. Then Thursday evening I very suddenly had non-stop coughing and sneezing. Wanting to be cautious, I took a Covid test and it was positive. So I started on Paxlovid but after 3 doses had an allergic reaction so have to stop. At least I am able to quarantine at home and not in a hotel. I just hope I didn't infect my family. So when I have spurts of energy I'll continue with my report. :)Makes me feel better because we had tickets to see Sound of Music today with friends, and obviously had to cancel. |
JUNE 6, 2023: A CATHEDRAL, BIBLICAL GARDENS AND A WHISKY TASTING
I like being able to order breakfast from a menu because I prefer hot breakfasts. John is a good chef and I really liked his cheese and tomato omelets so I ordered those every day. And you can choose your meat and toast is always included. There is also a selection of fresh fruits. My husband and our friends ordered a variety of egg dishes over the 3 days we were there, such as scrambled eggs, the full Scottish breakfast, and hot porridge was also on the menu. So, after a filling breakfast, we drove to Elgin Cathedral, about a 30-minute drive. We purchased tickets online for the 9:30 to 11:00am slot. I don’t think it was necessary to purchase in advance because there wasn’t a line when we arrived. At all the other castles where we pre-ordered tickets, there were lines that we were able to skip so that was worth doing. Elgin Cathedral was built during the 13th century and was considered one of the most beautiful cathedrals in Scotland at the time. In 1390 the cathedral was burned to the ground by the Wolf of Badenoch in retaliation for having been excommunicated by the Bishop of Moray when he left his wife. The cathedral was repaired but gradually deteriorated after the reformation. The ruins are majestic and evocative and definitely worth a visit. One of the highlights of our trip. By climbing the 134 steps to the top of the tower, we got a wonderful view of the cathedral and the town. Then we visited the Biblical Gardens that are behind the cathedral near where we parked our car. These are gorgeous, too! There are so many beautiful gardens in Scotland! The staff at the cathedral recommended the restaurant at Johnstons Cashmere Mill for a light lunch. The restaurant is wonderful and we all liked what we had. I ordered a salad with prawns. The only thing I don’t like is that the dressing is a very thick mayonnaise- based dressing. We noticed that at several other restaurants, too. We browsed through the stores at the woolen mill; the clothing is beautiful but very, very expensive! Next we decided to do a whisky tasting at the Glen Moray distillery. We didn’t plan on doing this so when we arrived, the distillery tour was all booked up. So the men had a tasting and Joanne and I had tea. I am not a whisky drinker but we all participated later on at the Talisker Distillery on Skye. It was still early when we arrived back at Sunny Brae. R and J wanted to rest so they relaxed in the sunroom while Ed and I took a very nice walk along the beach across the street. And then walked by the Nairn Harbor and through some side streets. Our dinner reservations were at Sun Dancer, located on the beach with wonderful views. We shared steamed mussels for an appetizer. Roger and I loved our salmon, one of the best dishes we had. Ed was disappointed in the hake because the sauce was too salty. And Joanne really liked her pork dish but did say it was on the salty side, too. We shared a delicious custard and rhubarb dessert. Even though my husband was disappointed in his dish, I would still recommend Sun Dancer. |
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Sunrise at 4:30AM from our room. My husband took the photo; I was still sleeping. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e10343889.jpeg The gardens at Sunny Brae B&B https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7a7e9069b.jpeg The breakfast room at Sunny Brae https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7d17e218b.jpeg View from the breakfast room https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d34741499.jpeg Elgin Cathedral https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...825149178e.jpg Beautiful and majestic https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...db53984bbe.jpg Elgin Cathedral https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...16d263310e.jpg Taken from the top of the tower https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...039bbc733.jpeg Taken from the top of the Tower https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...863a4b610.jpeg Another view from the tower https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e198c4d7d.jpeg |
Karen - this report is fab! Scotland wasn't high on my list of places to visit, but it's now moved to the top 3. Wonderful pictures. The food ones are gorgeous.
I hope you are feeling better. Like you, I managed to dodge it for almost 3 years and got it in late July 2022. |
Too bad about the 'vid' hopefully you'll feel better soon.
Yep -- You've discovered the joys of Salad Cream - a uniquely Brit 'thing'. ;) To be on the safe side I always ask for any dressing be on the side. Lovely B&B. |
Hope you feel better and recover soon. Thanks for writing such a detailed report. Get well soon!
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Continuing to enjoy your terrific TR.
Sorry you got covid and hope you feel better soon. |
Take care and get well soon Karen. Enjoying your pictures and comments, the sticky toffee pudding looks to die for!
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I wish you a speedy recovery and that everyone else in your family are spared. Get well soon. Looking forward to more, especially the Highlands.
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I’m 99.9% certain that it isn’t salad cream on your prawns but a British version of a Marie Rose sauce. At its most basic it’ll be mayo and tomato ketchup mixed up with a sprinkling of paprika or sometimes cayenne on top. Posh versions might include a dash of Tabasco, Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice or celery salt.
Mixed with prawns and served on iceberg lettuce you’ve got the classic Prawn Cocktail dish now considered retro but still popular (especially with my husband). Salad cream is sharper and more vinegary. A few years back the manufacturers threatened to stop making it and there was a huge nationwide outcry and lots of panic buying! My elderly mother would never even consider eating salad without dowsing it in the stuff! Have really enjoyed your report. I know Scotland very well but there’s always something new to learn. |
Oh -- I hadn't noticed the photo when I posted -- I was just going by the description of mayo-based. That's photograph is definitely not salad cream
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Thank you everyone for your well wishes! And so far my husband and my family in Texas don't have any Covid symptoms.
I love the details about the Marie Rose sauce. Never heard of that or salad cream before! You learn something new every day. |
Hope you are feeling better soon.
My niece says sticky toffee pudding counts as one of her five a day as it contains dates. If she turned sideways she could hide behind a lamppost so it is doing her any harm! |
Salad cream reminds me of a thinner version of Miracle Whip - sweet and mayonnaise-ish.
Branston Pickle is also very British. As in, why? |
I actually like Branston Pickle, which has caused much abuse here on Fodors ;)
Salad cream on the other hand - not so much |
What is wrong with Branston Pickle? Perfect with Christmas/Sunday dinner leftover meat. Or with a rally good chunk of Cheddar.
One of the few things we bring back from the UK, though I assume we can't do that any more thanks to Brexit :(. Salad cream brings back memories of grim Sunday teas with the Welsh Aunties, along with pickled beetroot and cucumber sliced so thin you could see through it, swimming in a bowl of Sarsons Malt vinegar. Shudder. At least there was Malt Loaf if you managed to get that far, and if we were really lucky some warm Welsh Cakes fresh off the griddle. |
Enjoying this report and the excellent photos -- hoping it doesn't send hordes to Scotland. We've only been once but plan a return.
Is that a langoustine atop the disappointing hake? My favorite crustacean! Sorry about the covid, and condolences to your daughter and her family on their leaving Provence for Texas. Another Branston Pickle fan here! |
I am enjoying all these discussions about British food that I know nothing about! What is Branston pickle? A specific brand of pickles? I love pickles!
JUNE 7, 2023: A CASTLE, MORE BEAUTIFUL GARDENS AND A FAMOUS BATTLEFIELD Our first destination today is the beautiful Cawdor Castle, built during the 14th century, and located about 15 minutes from Nairn. Cawdor is the title that Shakespeare’s witches promised to MacBeth so there is this connection to Shakespeare’s play. But the real MacBeth, an ancient Scottish king, couldn’t have lived here since he died in 1057. We used audioguides and visited the drawing room, the tapestry bedroom, the dining room, and the huge kitchen, along with a few other rooms. The rooms are beautifully decorated and furnished. Cawdor also has several gorgeous gardens, including a walled garden, a maze, and a woodland garden. It’s amazing how many beautiful gardens we saw on this trip! And the poisonous Golden Chain Tree is everywhere! After a light lunch at the Culloden Moor Inn, which was mediocre, we visited the famous Culloden Battlefield. An important battle took place here in 1746 that ended the Jacobite Rising of 1745 when Bonnie Prince Charlie was defeated. 1200 Highlanders were slaughtered by government troops. So this was the end of the old Clan system. Admission to the battlefield is free; however, there is a fee to enter the visitor center and museum that includes a film and a guided tour if you wish, which I think would have been a worthwhile thing to do. Our friends weren’t interested in doing this, so we walked around the battlefield ourselves using the provided leaflet for information, and there is some signage. The battlefield is actually quite pretty with yellow witches broom and heather. Enemy lines are indicated by colored flags. There are also stones and monuments that mark the graves of the clans. The Fraser stone was roped off because the area around it is all brown earth. No grass because of so many visitors due to Outlander fame. We spent about one hour here. Our dinner tonight was at the Aurora Restaurant in Nairn. It’s an Italian restaurant and the only restaurant we were very disappointed in. Our 2 starters weren’t good: a tomato and mozzarella salad with unripe tomatoes, and calamari that looked like onion rings and tasted like cardboard. We were very disappointed in our blah pasta dishes. The only thing we liked was the dessert. I will post a photo of that later. |
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The Cawdor Castle bagpiper https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...de484f0e0.jpeg Cawdor Castle https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e07a7b7b5.jpeg The elegant drawing room - I love the blue sofa! https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f02900991.jpeg The drawing room https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9415bc913.jpeg The tapestry bedroom https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ca6b1e880.jpeg Another bedroom https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e968fa779.jpeg Another elegant room https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...055176439.jpeg The Big Kitchen https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c4cf599c1.jpeg Cawdor Castle https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...27aaec6bc.jpeg Beautiful flowers https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5c9d5c79b.jpeg The drawbridge |
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Cawdor Castle Gardens - Golden Chain (AKA Laburnum) is everywhere https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7a21320a3.jpeg Gorgeous red poppies https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1171e240b.jpeg Me amidst the poisonous Golden Chain - didn't know it was poisonous at the time https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5f1b92b85.jpeg More beautiful flowers https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b9fd9fe2a.jpeg The Maze https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...09ebb5e28.jpeg The Walled Garden https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...91d9bb2b9.jpeg Walled Garden https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...18d27ce84.jpeg The Woodland Forest |
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Clan gravestone at Culloden Battlefield https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...035c9631d.jpeg The Culloden Battlefields Moors https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2b8624d87.jpeg Culloden https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...04fdb0914.jpeg Yellow Witches Broom is everywhere https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e658f4c58.jpeg Delicious ice cream dessert at Aurora Restaurant - it's not spumoni - I forgot the name https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9ed87798f.jpeg Random flower garden in Nairn |
"I am enjoying all these discussions about British food that I know nothing about! What is Branston pickle? A specific brand of pickles? I love pickles!"
More like a relish than what American's would call 'a pickle' - most large American supermarkets would probably have it if they carry any foreign/imported foods. Comes in 'original' and 'small chunk' https://www.worldmarket.com/p/branst...B&gclsrc=aw.ds |
Oh -- too bad your friends didn't want to go inside the visitors centre :( they do a really good job of explaining the context and the the battle chronology and the aftermath
Aren't the gardens at Cawdor lovely?!! Probably my favorite after Crathes and Inverewe. |
Branston pickle isn't a pickle like you have in the US, it is more like a chutney/relish I guess.
https://www.epicurious.com/expert-ad...h-game-article It shows how not to eat Branston though. It is a condiment to be added to sandwiches not something to smear all over a slice of bread. https://www.tastingtable.com/897768/...anston-pickle/ shows a better picture, and as it says you get it with a ploughmans lunch often, along with a pickled onion. Yum. I can't believe you have never had it in the UK. Next time... :) |
There are many brands of pickle sold but Branston is THE famous one, it has been going for years and named after the village of, yes Branston in Staffordshire!
Cheese and pickle sandwiches are fabulous, especially using grated cheddar on white sliced bread. My world was rocked when Branston started making a smooth pickle - which I much prefer although you can also get 'small chunk' as well the original. That's the pickle lesson for today! |
Wow! I am learning so much about different food items!
hetismij2, our Scotland trip is the first time we have been to the UK since we were in London on work trips in the 1970's!:toj: I'm really dating myself! And we only had a few sandwiches on this trip. Would Branston pickles go good on hot dogs or burgers? Sounds like it would. If I find any in a nearby supermarket, will definitely buy some, or purchase online. janisj, yeah, I was disappointed our friends didn't want to go into the Culloden visitor center/museum. I know it would be helpful in understanding the history better. That's why we prefer traveling with just the 2 of us. We enjoy going away for a weekend getaway with friends, but I think anything more than that is too much for us. |
There is a World Market about 30 minutes from us. Never been there. Will stop by when I am Covid negative.
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Originally Posted by Fra_Diavolo
(Post 17479950)
Enjoying this report and the excellent photos -- hoping it doesn't send hordes to Scotland. We've only been once but plan a return.
Is that a langoustine atop the disappointing hake? My favorite crustacean! Sorry about the covid, and condolences to your daughter and her family on their leaving Provence for Texas. Another Branston Pickle fan here! My daughter and her family were sad to leave Provence, and we were sad to see them leave, too, because we visited quite frequently. But they are adjusting well to the Dallas area. They have lots of nice neighbors with children the same age. The neighborhood had a cute July 4 parade with the children in it, and a picnic in the park. Their next door neighbors had July 4 party the night before. So they have gotten to meet a lot of people from the neighborhood. And coming from Provence they are accustomed to the heat. Coming from MA, we are not. One week the temps were 100 to 104 degrees, and the other 2 weeks with low to high 90's! |
KarenWoo, what a fabulous trip report! Your photos are wonderful! I have been so remiss in following this report, and every time I return to it to start reading, there are 20 more posts to catch up on!
I’m so sorry you tested positive for covid - I hope your symptoms remain mild and your family continues to be negative. I want you to know how jealous I am of the stunning weather you had! And the food you had - wow! I spent a year in Edinburgh as an undergraduate (early 70s) and the most interesting food I had then was Indian food. I can’t believe how creative the food is now! I did go back with my husband one summer about 25 years ago and it poured heavily almost the entire time we were in Edinburgh and much of the rest of our trip to Scotland. Of course, the misty weather does add a lot to the mood of the place, I would always remind myself! But I do love Scotland and am a sucker for bagpipes and castles. Thanks for a great report! |
KarenWoo…..I have enjoyed going to Scotland with you every day along with my morning coffee. Your photos and commentary have made it come alive.
I was showing a few of your flower photos to a gardening friend of mine and she said “Is that your sister?” We do look very similar. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c28e86358.jpeg Karen in Scotland https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...728a02c09.jpeg Mary in The Canadian Rockies |
Originally Posted by TPAYT
(Post 17480123)
KarenWoo…..I have enjoyed going to Scotland with you every day along with my morning coffee. Your photos and commentary have made it come alive.
I was showing a few of your flower photos to a gardening friend of mine and she said “Is that your sister?” We do look very similar. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c28e86358.jpeg Karen in Scotland https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...728a02c09.jpeg Mary in The Canadian Rockies |
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