Very good detail...useful tips about the hotels, air conditioning, restaurants, etc. Keep it up!

SEVILLE continued

We are not big fans of museums, most of our touring in Seville consisted of a lot of walking (we literally walked MILES every day of our two-week trip), so we decided to follow the Rick Steves self-guided walking tour of Barrio Santa Cruz to begin our exploration of Seville.

But first, we went into the Alcazar -- what a beautiful place -- the mosaic tiles were a true wonder to behold and the gardens were just spectacular! There are a lot of guide books that describe it better than anything I can put to paper -- so just go and experience it!

The exit of the Alcazar left us at right about the beginning of the self-guided walking tour. It was delightful -- buy the Rick Steves guide book on Southern Spain, it offers a lot of self-walking tours and we did this in both Seville and Barcelona.

Speaking of guide books, I purchased the massive Fodors Spain guidebook as well as the smaller Rick Steves Barcelona and Rick Steves Southern Spain guidebooks. The Rick Steves guide books were small enough to pack, but we left the Fodors book at home -- in fact, I only briefly glanced at it and at almost USD30 for the book I think it was a waste of money. It sits in my reading room, untouched. The Rick Steves guides are actually excerpts of his main Spain guide, separated into several books on each region and I found these to be more practical to bring with us. We followed it for great tips and maps and both books were small enough to fit in our camera bag without weighing us down.

We got to see things that we probably would have overlooked. Patios that we could peek into, narrow little streets (called "kissing lanes"), charming little plazas....all just a few blocks from our hotel, but they would have gone undetected by us had we not followed the guide book. We stopped along the way for cafe con leche and delicious bit of sweetness that was calling our name through the glass pane of a cafe's counter. It was the perfect start to our Seville adventure.

We made our way back to the hotel and stopped for a rest and got ready for dinner.

We had a late dinner of tapas at Restaurante Taberna Poncio -- it was on my list AND it was right next door to our hotel so we didn't need to go very far. Dinner was delicious,but the portions were small and I think for the cost (EUR50) we could have had a larger meal for less cost elsewhere.

Nonetheless, the place itself was really charming, beautifully decorated and the personnel were friendly and helpful.....we were finally getting the hang of eating late and ordering small. Overall, no regrets, but I think you could find other restaurants of the same caliber at a better price.

We stopped for a DECAF coffee at the square in front of our hotel and called it a night.

A great start to a beautiful city.

Sounds like you had a lovely time, Thanks for the tips, and I've been Barcelona a few times and never had a problem with pick pockets, I think it might be over exaggerate.

The next morning we were up early, ready to take on the day. We stopped at 3 Oros Restaurant for breakfast, thinking I could find churros there. Churros are fried pastry that you dip in chocolate.

3 Oros didn't have churros, so they sent us RIGHT NEXT DOOR which was a churros shop where they make them on the spot for you! I bought some while DH got us a table and ordered cafe con leche, along with a cup of thick sweet delicious chocolate to dip our churros in. OMG it was so good! So good in fact that we had this for breakfast every morning!

We followed a tip in the Rick Steves book by heading over to the Church of the Savior to purchase our combo tickets for both this church and the cathedral. This saved us a lot of wait time at the cathedral as we were able to bypass the long lines to buy tickets. Great tip!

Church of the Savior was so, so beautiful.....DH and I both agree that it was more beautiful than the cathedral, which we found to be poorly lit and a little gloomy. Staff were starting to prep the cathedral for Semana Santa so maybe that's why we weren't over the top with it -- there was a lot of scaffolding covering up a lot of the chapels, etc.....but it was still very beautiful to see and I'm glad we spent time there. We also didn't make it up to the top of the Giralda Tower (DH's bum knee prevented us) so I think we missed out on the best part.

We made our way over to the Arenal neighborhood for lunch. I was looking for a restaurant called La Isla (located on Calle Arfe). We were the first to arrive, and the waiter made a big fuss over us, which was really nice.

We wanted to eat Paella and the waiter suggested we order the one with 4 large langoustines which is a large shrimp (almost the size of a baby lobster) so we went for it. It was out of this world delicious!

However, we got sticker shock when we got the bill! EUR91 for paella salad and wine. While we have no regrets spending this much for one meal (we were on vacation after all), if you go here for lunch (and I highly recommend that you do) order the paella but only TWO langoustines and make sure it's a 2-person order of paella. We definitely got "had" by the waiter.

The serving we got was enough to feed 6 people, we left more than half of it behind and had 2 servings each. It was way toooooo much food and although delicious, we could have spent half the amount of money on a half-size order.

After lunch we made our way towards the river and strolled along the promenade to the Torre de Oro, took some photos but didn't go inside as we just wanted to wander.

We booked a tour of the bullfighting ring which was nearby. It was fascinating, especially the chapel where the toreador prays before the big show. You can't visit on your own, there are only guided tours available. On this day, there was a huge tent set up in the middle of the ring for some medal ceremony taking place later that week, so we didn't get a full view of the ring and we couldn't tour the medical area, but it was still a fun time.

We made our way over to the bridge that took us into Triana. A beautiful stroll and a lovely square along the river. I've read on this site about how many people love staying in Triana. While I thought Triana was nice for an hour's stroll I was glad that I hadn't booked a hotel there as it was too far away from the tourist center. It was, in a way, a residential area much like the neighborhood we stayed in when we were in Cordoba -- I'm glad we stayed in Barrio Santa Cruz instead -- it was much more charming, in my opinion.

After Triana, we stopped at, yes, an Irish bar -- Guinness for the DH and a cafe con leche for me. It was starting to get cloudy and the wind was picking up so we made our way over to Maria Luisa Park -- it was quite a walk but was so worth it!

We found Plaza de Espana nearby -- beautiful building and worthy of the walk just to take some photos and enjoy the scenery. We left that area and stumbled upon Plaza Nueva - an equally beautiful area.

We wandered back towards our hotel and decided to go to Hotel Dona Maria's rooftop bar for a drink. The view of the cathedral (right next door) was stunning. Go there!

That night we attended the flamenco show. Glad it was just a few doors away from our hotel because it was POURING RAIN!

The show was spectacular! It was completely different from the show we saw in Cordoba. The dancing was still eloquent, but it was also angry -- as if the female dancer was really pissed off at the male dancer. A completely different experience from the Cordoba show but equally mesmerizing. There was only one guitarist and this time a female singer -- and her singing was more like poignant wailing -- she was baring her soul in her singing and the dancing emphasized it. The show took place in a patio on a stage that was flush with the floor.

We had front row seats and a bird's eye view of their faces and I could see the passion, and the anger, written across their faces as they danced. Paired with the soulful, wailing/singing, I was in a trance beginning to end. It was just fantastic.

After the show we had dinner at 3 Oros -- go there! It was reasonably priced and the diners were mostly locals, you will love it!

What do you do on a rainy day in Seville?
Anything you want!

We took a cab up to Basilica Macarena -- too far to walk. The church was gorgeous and we got to go in the back of the altar to see the view of the church from behind the statue of Mary, and we got an up close view of the statue itself. Simply beautiful.

From there we took another cab ride to Casa de Pilatos. The entry fee includes an audio guide so I listened to it for a bit, but again, I find these things too distracting. I may not leave a particular attraction more knowledgeable about it but that's OK with me. I prefer to wander around and just absorb the history, the majesty of each place I visit. The tour included a visit to some of the rooms and I really enjoyed learning about the Duke of Medinaceli's family and history.

It had (briefly) stopped raining so we walked back towards Barrio Santa Cruz and found ourselves once again near the Church of the Savior -- we stopped for lunch at a small local eatery then over a few blocks for coffee and dessert on Calle Sierpes.

Calle Sierpes is a really nice street to window shop -- there were many shop windows showcasing flamenco dresses of all shapes, sizes and level of grandeur -- we found a 'department' store that had a sale going on and I finally got to purchase a lightweight coat (it was quite chilly that day and also in Granada a few days later, so it was a great purchase).

Back down in Barrio Santa Cruz, we also visited Hospital de los Venerables -- completely different from all the other churches we'd seen so far in Spain. There was also an exhibit by a local artist (can't remember the name) that displayed some beautiful paintings, especially of early Seville. Not sure if it is an ongoing exhibit, but if you're there and it's there, go see it.

Our last day in Seville we visited the Metropol. I had read about it and was curious to see what it looked like. Meh. It was just OK, we didn't take the tour....but we did go into the market located there. What a fabulous display of all kinds of food! The freshest fruit and vegetables I've ever seen....the fish selection was unbelievable! I counted at least 6 different varieties of shrimp, even more of squid. It was just amazing.

We ended the day (had a 4PM train to Granada) with a fabulous lunch at our favorite Seville restaurant, La Azotea.

I am sure we missed a lot of great places to visit -- we didn't hit any of the museums and I would have enjoyed a day trip to Italica....but Seville was beautiful and I will treasure all the moments I experienced there.

Next up....Granada!





,

Re the difficulties of using the Renfe web site: the "seat61" blogger recommends this site as an easier way to make Renfe reservations, for just a slight fee: http://petrabax.com/renfe/
I have not used this yet, just passing this on FWIW. I am just beginning to think about a trip to Spain later this year and thank you Judy for this excellent trip report.

Loving your report. went to Spain last May, same cities. Had a great time.

Thank you for this wonderful, comprehensive trip report. We leave two weeks from today for our first trip to Spain and I'll be using your remarks for guidelines.

I often read, then cut and paste the trip reports into a Word document, edit it and then take it along to supplement my own notes. Thanks for some great suggestions!

Thanks everyone!

You are making me very hungry! I can't wait till we go next year!

Thank you for a wonderfully- detailed report, filled with your impressions (love the descriptions of the flamenco performances) and practical unto as well. I will remember 2 langoustines, not 4!

Paule

Judy_Rosa, thanks so much for your detailed and very interesting TR. Several years ago, we visited the Andalucian towns of Spain, and would like to return.

Hi Judy_Rosa, thanks for a great TR, it has been very helpful & timely since we will be in Spain in just over 2 weeks!
Had a question, where did you go for the Flamenco performance in Seville? I hope we enjoy it as much as you did!
Eagerly waiting for the rest!

Thanks everyone -- I'm enjoying reliving the memories as I write about them.

excited_confused: We went to the flamenco show at Hotel Alcantara -- next to the hotel is where it's held, in an authentic patio. It was raining so hard that the patio, although fully enclosed, had a ceiling cover made of canvas (waterproof) which I think they roll back when weather permits. So the rain pelting on it added to the overall experience. It was awesome!

excited_confused
The place at Hotel Alcantara is called La Casa del Flamenco: http://www.lacasadelflamencosevilla.com/

I would nevertheless advice you to check the program in Casa de la Memória. Much the same deal as La Casa del Flamenco: no food, no drinks, just flamenco. But plain fantastic Pastora Galván from Sevilla dances in Casa de la Memória regularly, and if she's on, I wouldn't hesitate a second, go here!

Pastora Galván was voted best female flamenco dancer 2010 by Spanish critics, and she was the big star of that year's Bienal de Flamenco in Sevilla, the most prestigious flamenco festival in the world. Now she's nominated to the Premio Max as best female dancer in Spain 2013 in all categories for this performance with the Ballett Flamenco de Andalucía:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t-LEEMFun20

Casa de la Memória: http://www.casadelamemoria.es/
Check the program here, not scheduled for your week yet:
http://www.casadelamemoria.es/agenda/

Pastora Galván has danced in the performance "Arte flamenco" in Casa de la Memória in recent weeks. This gives you an idea:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k2SBUcrJgeQ

The link below is similar to the show I saw in Cordoba -- the dancer in white was the main dancer at the show we attended. It's the same male dancer. And I believe the same musicians as well.

There were 3 additional female dancers at the show we went to -- but the woman dressed in white in this video was the 'star' of the show we saw. She was electrifying! And we had front row seats, so it was especially incredible to watch.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xvq1b4OtaPs

If you can't click directly to the link, you can always copy/past the above url into your browser if you're interested in taking a look.

The main dancer your night in Córdoba was Victoria Palacios. She won the prestigious "La Malena" dance prize in the National Flamenco Competition in Córdoba in 1992: http://www.nacionaldearteflamenco.es...oncurso/a1992/

Here Palacios and Antonio Alcázar come in at 1.30: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yTzXz8-_mUY

They performed in New York a couple of years ago:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0RJaGqaGpAg

During the National competition where Palacios won the "La Malena" prize in 1992, Eva Yerbabuena won the "La Mejorana" prize. Yerbabuena is probably the finest flamenco dancer in the world the past fifteen years. Here in the Flamenco White Night (Noche Blanca de Flamenco) in Plaza de las Tendillas in Córdoba (close to where you stayed) in June 2011.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qAm4z2EJjQU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=clCZYH5VNWw

That's her! She was amazing -- wish I could go back!

I guess you will ;-)

I too am enjoying reading your trip report.
My husband and I leave for Spain in two weeks and we are getting pretty excited. We are doing Madrid, Cordoba, Seville, Granada, and Costa del Sol area for two weeks.
We are planning to check out flamenco show in Seville.

Bookmarking! Thank you for the detailed report. I am loving it. We leave in 2 1/2 weeks and are going to all the same locations!

GRANADA

The best thing about Granada was.....my family drove all the way from Lisbon to spend the weekend with me! So I got to tour one of the most beautiful places I've ever seen with some of my favorite people!

We arrived by train from Seville on a rainy afternoon. The cab driver had difficulty finding our hotel which I thought was really weird. And the price reflected the driving around in circles. We stayed at Casa de la Trinidad, right in front of the square of the same name.

The hotel was perfectly located, right near a few awesome tapas bars and just a few blocks from the Cathedral. Our room faced the square and had 3 (!!) balconies which was fabulous.....however.....the bed was like sleeping on bedrock. It was so hard that we woke up with back aches! I guess we could have asked to change rooms, but this was our 3rd hotel in one week, we had already unpacked and there was no guarantee that a different room would have a more comfortable bed, so we kept the room with the fabulous view. And 3 balconies.

The staff at the hotel could not be more helpful. They arranged for DH and I to see a flamenco show in a cave up in the Albaycin and gave us a few restaurant recommendations. My family preferred to have breakfast in the hotel so we did as well while they were there -- but it was only an OK breakfast and the cost (EUR12 I think) was expensive and not worth it. After the family left, we had breakfast in the square in front of the hotel and it was cheap and delicious.

Around the block from our hotel was the famous Olivers. And they are famous for good reason...the tapas kept coming with each drink -- I ordered a small glass of beer, which was the perfect size and quite good. The tapas were good too -- we asked the bartender to order tapas for us since we were a group of 7 and couldn't decide (one of the joys of group travel)....LOL We got mostly fish tapas, can't remember all the different dishes but all were quite good.

The 'free' tapas you get with your drink is usually a small roll with tuna. This was the case for us at Olivers and a few other tapas places we stopped at, both in Granada and Barcelona.

Of course the tapas change with each drink -- but we're not big drinkers, so we usually ordered only one or two drinks. When the DH and I were on our own again, we would order extra tapas, beyond the free one we got with our drinks.

Olivers offers indoor and outdoor seating -- since it was raining we went indoors, but there is also covered seating outdoors with linens, etc.....since we were only there for tapas and not a full meal, we didn't go for the outdoor space as I believe you could only order full meals there. There are also a few tables set up directly outside the entrance, but those were taken.....we came back to Olivers more than once, it was that good (Jamon Iberico was outstanding!) and ate outside.

The next day we set out to explore Granada in the morning because we had reserved Alhambra tickets for the afternoon.

A word about getting tickets to the Alhambra: I ordered tickets online a few weeks before our trip, got my receipt and used the SAME CREDIT CARD to pick up the actual tickets from a bookstore near Plaza Nueva. Getting the tickets was easy.....what was not so easy is getting into the Alhambra and here's why:

When I bought the tickets I purchased a regular entry for me and a 'senior' discount for my DH. When we arrived at the entrance of the Alhambra, I had no problem entering....but...my DH could not, he had to go stand in a line that was about 3 miles long to PROVE he was a senior citizen. That took about 1.5 hours -- I stayed in line with him as I wasn't going without him! When we FINALLY got to the ticket counter, DH handed his ID card over, and we were then told that the discount applied only to European Community citizens only -- had to shell out the extra EUR5 for him to get in.

Maybe I misunderstood the instructions on the web site regarding discounted tickets. I probably did. But, moral of the story is just eat the extra EUR5 and buy the full fare ticket if you are NOT a citizen of Europe -- the waiting time alone is not worth the discount. It didn't matter that we already had tickets in hand, we had to wait with all the non-ticket holders for our turn at the counter. AND....for the hundreds of people waiting in line, there were only 2 counters open. I was beyond irritated, especially since our 'reserved time' for entry into the palace came and went and we were still standing in line!

Fortunately they waived the reservation time and we were able to get in to the palace beyond our appointed reservation time.

This is one of the attractions in Spain that I highly recommend that you rent the audio guide -- the place is so breathtaking and so MASSIVE that the guide really helped me keep track of everything I saw.

The Alhambra is quite possibly the most amazing place I've ever seen. And again, as with so many things we saw in Spain, there are no words to fully describe this wonder. Go. And plan on staying all day to fully see and appreciate all of it.

After the Alhambra, we made our way back down to Plaza Nueva using the same bus (#30 I think) that took us up. I believe you can walk to the Alhambra, but for the cheap cost of the bus, I don't think it's worth walking (unless you enjoy hiking uphill) -- you will be doing a lot of walking on the grounds, so save your legs for the Alhambra, take the bus.

We decided to go tapas hopping -- we started at Diamantes near Plaza Nueva (EXCELLENT -- go there) and then wandered up Carrera del Darro -- a charming little street that winds its way up into the Albaycin along the Darro River. Had more tapas at a few eateries along this street. This part of Granada is just so charming and adorable that DH and I gravitated to this area every day of our stay.

Dinner was unremarkable -- it had been a long, long day and we were all really tired, so we found a random restaurant off Plaza Nueva and ate some mediocre food.

Then back to the hotel to sleep on our bed of rocks.

The next morning my family left -- so DH and I were on our own again. We visited the Cathedral -- so beautiful, we liked this cathedral much more so than the one in Seville.

It was filled with light and brightness and we noticed it was considerably cooler than outside -- a welcome reprieve in the warmer weather. We were always blown away by all the buildings we saw throughout Spain -- built so many centuries ago and yet still standing in its glory -- how did they build such majestic structures with the technology of their day? Simply amazing.

We also toured the Royal Chapel -- the final resting place of the Catholic Monarchs. We followed the Rick Steve's self-guided tour, which gave us some really interesting bits of information (such as the dent in Isabel's pillow is due to her larger brain)....the high altar in front of the tombs was striking and is said to be one of the finest Renaissance works in Spain.

I keep using words like 'amazing' throughout my entire trip report....there are not enough synonyms to describe the wonders of Spain!

We left the chapel and wandered around the Alcaiceria -- right next to the Cathedral and Chapel -- which was originally a Moorish silk market. It was fun walking up and down the narrow lanes and peeking into shops (filled with tacky touristy things).....and found ourselves in Plaza de Bib-Rambla.

This is where I read about a great cafe where we could buy churros con chocolate. We found it (I think it's called Gran Cafe Bib-Ramblas) but the churros were a disappointment compared to what we had in Seville. The churros were over-fried and greasy...I am sure you can find better churros elsewhere.

While walking in the plaza, we came across a group of men who were practicing for Semana Santa. They were carrying on their shoulders the structure that would hold the statue of the Virgin. It held instead, for their rehearsal, about a dozen solid concrete slabs (like the kind you see for temporary construction on highways). Must have weighed at least a ton. There were about 20 guys underneath it and at the count of the 'conductor' (the guy leading the rehearsal) they would hoist it onto their shoulders and march around the plaza. I was really impressed!

We took a bus up into the Albaycin that left us at Mirador San Nicolas. WHAT A VIEW!!! We took about a thousand pictures, then followed the Rick Steve's self-guided walking tour of the area. We found a restaurant in a small square that had a lunch special displayed in its window, so we went in and had a really nice meal (including beer/wine) for under EUR15. It was delicious. Can't remember the name of the place but there are many little tabernas throughout the area, pick one and enjoy!

We took the bus back down to Plaza Nueva, and walked up Carrer del Darro, to the top of the street where we found a large square along the river. The restaurants along this street had outdoor seating set up in the square so we sat and of course had some cafe con leche and a delicious dessert and enjoyed the view (lots of musicians playing and singing for the crowd), reviewed our trusty map and guide book and planned out the rest of our day.

We decided to follow the map we got from the tourist office and walked around this part of the Albaycin (I think this was the Albaycin -- the lower end) but since it was a Monday most of the churches and other attractions were closed. But we loved walking around the narrow streets and made our way back down to Plaza Nueva.

We headed back to our bedrock hotel and rested up before dinner.

I read about a place in Granada (on Trip Advisor) called La Oliva. It's an olive oil (and other stuff) shop whose owner, Francisco, hosts a tasting dinner a few times each month. Maybe more often than that. So I booked online several weeks in advance for an 8:30 sit down.

It is not possible to describe the 3-hour meal we experienced. It is not a restaurant, it is more like a deli or sorts, filled with shelves displaying different gourmet foods like olive oil, olives, pates, etc....there were 3 or four tables set up in the middle of the shop and about 12 people total.

Francisco is a charming guy, passionate about his wines and food and the 3 hours flew by as he served us course after course of Andalusian regional specialties. We counted 17 different courses ranging from a course of 3 different regional olive oils (with bread for dipping) to delicious fish. We tasted 5 different wines too.....each course was prepared by Francisco on a 2-burner hot plate and served by Francisco and his assistant.

The joy of this experience was not only the wine and the food (which were all out of this world delicious) but the way Francisco described what we were eating and drinking. His genuine love of the region and the stories he shared with us made for a magical evening.

The cost was EUR38 per person. If you expect a 'real restaurant' with a full menu to choose from etc. this is not for you. But if you want to enjoy a truly unique dining experience I highly recommend you spend an evening with Francisco. It was one of the most enjoyable evenings we spent in all of Spain and a memory that will last forever.

What a fun report, Judy_Rosa!

So glad you liked your hotel in charming Barrio Santa Cruz, and that you got out to see so much.

We tried to get a To Go box our first lunch in Seville, when we ordered one tapa too many and thought the potatoes would be nice fried for breakfast later. The server kindly want to ask management about this unusual request, came back with regrets. Not the Done Thing there.

Thank you for your response.....wasn't sure if anyone was still reading this, was going to stop writing about my trip.

Please finish...I am enjoying reading about your trip.:)

Awww....thanks!

Me too!! Can't wait to hear more!

I'm reading. I'm really bad at commenting, though.

You did make me book Flamenco at Tablao Cardenal, though I doubt it will be the same dancers in late June.

I do have some questions about the restaurants.

You mention booking at some of the restaurants, but not at others. Does that mean any place you did NOT mention pre-booking will be ok to simply walk into? Would they be ok as a single person, or should I stick to tapas places and other simpler places?

I've heard about the free tapas with drinks in Granada, before. But, is that only alcoholic drinks? Anything stronger than a light cider will make me sleepy or worse. Last time I tried I could barely walk after a glass. I am willing to pay for the tapas, if they aren't free with non-alcoholic drinks, but I'd like to know before I go. Less risk of making myself look stupid.

There were some that required reservations, like La Oliva.....but yes, if I didn't mention specifically making a reservation, that's because we were able to just walk in.

Regarding the free tapas, yes I do believe you get a free tapa with any drink even non-alcoholic.....not entirely positive since we always ordered wine or beer.

I think my cousins ordered soda and got a free tapa with it.

And, I think it's perfectly fine to dine alone at a restaurant. I do it all the time when I'm away on business.


I think you'll be fine dining alone whether at a taberna or restaurant! Enjoy the freedom!

Judy_Rosa: Thanks. I'm counting down the days to my own trip. The only thing I'm truly worried about right now is the heat.

Don't stop writing this TR! I'm checking constantly to see if there are any updates! This will definitely be a major reference for next years trip! I'm absolutely loving this, and am really enjoying reading about your experiences. I also love kimhe's posts on flamenco.

Thanks everyone! Almost done, one more day in Granada then off to Barcelona!

This is awesome! leaving in about a week with my 17 year old for Madrid, Granada and Seville!

I have been reading and enjoying this, Judy! Andalusia has been on my wish list for some time. We lived in Spain for a year when I was a little girl and I want to revisit--soon.

Thanks for reporting.

Oh Judy! Isn't Granada just a jewel?
I'm enthralled, nodding & smiling as I remember my trip & enjoy yours vicariously.

I can almost smell the anchovies & jamon at La Olivera. What a wonderful experience!

You can (I did several times) walk from Plaza Neuve to the Alhambra. It's actually quite lovely as it goes through a park for the last half.

Thank you, thank you & do please continue.

aneygr,
<You did make me book Flamenco at Tablao Cardenal, though I doubt it will be the same dancers in late June.> It probably will, these artists form the regular group here: http://www.tablaocardenal.es/artistasprincipales.html

The major flamenco event in Córdoba and all of Andalucía in late June is the Noche Blanca del Flamenco/Flamenco White Night on June 21. Then world class flamenco artists perform on open air stages in plazas all around town from late night until dawn the next day. All concerts are free. http://english.turismodecordoba.org/...nco-in-cordoba
Programme: http://www.lanocheblancadelflamenco.cordoba.es/

Starts off with world famous Sara Baras in Plaza de las Tendillas: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tNcKVJsUkUI

Goes on with José Mercé in Plaza de la Corredera: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xzxyefhCQXg

Then, the winners of the 2013 National Flamenco Art Competition, among them the bailaora/dancer Mercedes de Córdoba: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VE8ejuTNpaM

etc. etc. all through the night.

Loving this trip report - thanks!
I have just sent an email to La Oliva to see if they are by any chance holding a tasting dinner during the time we're in Granada. It sounds amazing!

Your report has been great so far. Lots of good info. We are all booked for our first trip to Spain this upcoming October. We will visit Barcelona, Seville and Cordoba as part of our trip so the info in your trip reports is very helpful. I look forward to reading more.

(I know it is a lot of work - you're doing a great job!)

I have been reading with much interest. We will be touring Andalucia in June, and we have just come back from 4 days in Barcelona.
I will for sure try to book La Oliva but I'm still in doubt about a flamenco performance. I think we will book Arte y Sabores de Cordoba.