"Our Small Adventure" an Ongoing Paris Trip Report
Feb 21st, 2013, 03:41 AM
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"Our Small Adventure" an Ongoing Paris Trip Report
Some of you may have seen my post from Lisbon. We're away from home (California) for five months and after spending January in Lisbon we're now ensconced in our flat in the Marais on what I'm calling "Our Small Adventure".
The weather in Paris has been glorious, cold but fairly clear for the last week. It's very different to come here with four months stretching ahead instead of the normal week or so. On one hand you feel you'll have lots of time to see things and on the other you feel the pressure to get going because there is so much to see here. In that regard a city like Lisbon is far more relaxing because there isn't as much that you feel compelled to visit which creates a charming laid back feeling.
So what about Paris? Well there are lots of tourists even in the dead of winter, it must be a nightmare in the summer? Currently the Seine is currently high so the Batobus is bypassing the Hotel du Ville and the Jardin du Plantes.
The Dali exhibit at the Pompidou is well worth a visit though I would recommend going on a weekday evening as it's absolutely packed at other times, including before opening on Saturday and Sunday when it's open to members and advanced purchase ticket holders.
The Louvre is always thronged with people, the only answer is to wander away from the crowds which is fairly easy as everyone is going to the same ten things.. As usual seeing the Mona Lisa is the least artistic experience you could have, what with the bullet proof glass and the massive tour groups. It's all about having your photo take in front of it.
I love the Mesopotamian section at the Louvre with some monumental temple sculptures and of course the fantastic French sculpture gardens. The new Islamic Art galleries at the are also very interesting though the layout is a little odd. When you get downstairs it's easy to bypass an entire room if you are not careful. Here the material is laid out in a chronological fashion which is in contrast to the Met where the revamped galleries there go country by country. IMHO the Met exhibit creates more of a feel for the decorative arts by showing them in complete rooms or courtyards which give you a feeling for the culture.
I'm listening to a series on the Louvre from Great Courses and revisiting after each short lecture. The museum is so enormous that I needed a way to break it down into more manageable chunks. I've joined and am looking forward to getting to know the place.
I'm loving the Richard Lenoir Market on a Sunday morning. My idea of a perfect Sunday is to walk over there, do my shopping and then stroll up to the Canal St Martin (passing a small flea market) and back to the Marais via the Marche des Enfants Rouge which is what we did last Sunday, fabulous in the winter sunshine.
We had a complete disaster on arrival because though the flat is beautiful there was ongoing work on the apartment building stairwell and interior. It was meant to be done in December but was delayed by a month or more. It was so bad we had to move out for a couple of days because of the chemical they'd used to treat the wood. The situation is tedious and at the beginning it seemed like the end of the world, but you have to take the bad with the good. Though it's still very noisy and dusty (they are refinishing the stairs) we are in Paris and the landlord has agreed to give us a free week next year
. We had considered one other apartment in the 10e and I went by it last week only to see the entire road is under major construction so I'm glad we didn't stay there, I think it would have been worse!
On the blog there are pictures of various walks and I'll be posting lots more about museums and of course the Marais where we are staying. Hope it's helpful. http://somuchmoretosee.blogspot.fr/s...ll%20Adventure
Not sure if there are any Fodorite living in Paris or on an extended visit? If so feel free to contact me on the blog if you'd like to get together.
The weather in Paris has been glorious, cold but fairly clear for the last week. It's very different to come here with four months stretching ahead instead of the normal week or so. On one hand you feel you'll have lots of time to see things and on the other you feel the pressure to get going because there is so much to see here. In that regard a city like Lisbon is far more relaxing because there isn't as much that you feel compelled to visit which creates a charming laid back feeling.
So what about Paris? Well there are lots of tourists even in the dead of winter, it must be a nightmare in the summer? Currently the Seine is currently high so the Batobus is bypassing the Hotel du Ville and the Jardin du Plantes.
The Dali exhibit at the Pompidou is well worth a visit though I would recommend going on a weekday evening as it's absolutely packed at other times, including before opening on Saturday and Sunday when it's open to members and advanced purchase ticket holders.
The Louvre is always thronged with people, the only answer is to wander away from the crowds which is fairly easy as everyone is going to the same ten things.. As usual seeing the Mona Lisa is the least artistic experience you could have, what with the bullet proof glass and the massive tour groups. It's all about having your photo take in front of it.
I love the Mesopotamian section at the Louvre with some monumental temple sculptures and of course the fantastic French sculpture gardens. The new Islamic Art galleries at the are also very interesting though the layout is a little odd. When you get downstairs it's easy to bypass an entire room if you are not careful. Here the material is laid out in a chronological fashion which is in contrast to the Met where the revamped galleries there go country by country. IMHO the Met exhibit creates more of a feel for the decorative arts by showing them in complete rooms or courtyards which give you a feeling for the culture.
I'm listening to a series on the Louvre from Great Courses and revisiting after each short lecture. The museum is so enormous that I needed a way to break it down into more manageable chunks. I've joined and am looking forward to getting to know the place.
I'm loving the Richard Lenoir Market on a Sunday morning. My idea of a perfect Sunday is to walk over there, do my shopping and then stroll up to the Canal St Martin (passing a small flea market) and back to the Marais via the Marche des Enfants Rouge which is what we did last Sunday, fabulous in the winter sunshine.
We had a complete disaster on arrival because though the flat is beautiful there was ongoing work on the apartment building stairwell and interior. It was meant to be done in December but was delayed by a month or more. It was so bad we had to move out for a couple of days because of the chemical they'd used to treat the wood. The situation is tedious and at the beginning it seemed like the end of the world, but you have to take the bad with the good. Though it's still very noisy and dusty (they are refinishing the stairs) we are in Paris and the landlord has agreed to give us a free week next year
. We had considered one other apartment in the 10e and I went by it last week only to see the entire road is under major construction so I'm glad we didn't stay there, I think it would have been worse!On the blog there are pictures of various walks and I'll be posting lots more about museums and of course the Marais where we are staying. Hope it's helpful. http://somuchmoretosee.blogspot.fr/s...ll%20Adventure
Not sure if there are any Fodorite living in Paris or on an extended visit? If so feel free to contact me on the blog if you'd like to get together.
Feb 21st, 2013, 03:50 AM
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It's nice to see that glowing thing in the sky again (it's been so long I've forgotten what it's called) that has been hiding since November. Too bad about the construction but hopefully the nice, albeit cold, weather is making up for it.
Feb 21st, 2013, 07:41 AM
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How exciting to be on a 5-month adventure! + 1 on TDudette's jealousy comment. ;-)
I love the Louvre "project" - what a wonderful idea.
Your blog is great, too - I like the format and it's so easy to navigate. I'll be following along. Thanks, welltraveledbrit - looking forward to more.
I love the Louvre "project" - what a wonderful idea.
Your blog is great, too - I like the format and it's so easy to navigate. I'll be following along. Thanks, welltraveledbrit - looking forward to more.
Feb 21st, 2013, 08:54 AM
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Thanks for the encouragement and glad you liked the blog.
Today I stopped in to Marriage Freres for tea which is right across from our apartment and my pot of tea was 11 euro. I kid you not. Seriously that is insane especially given that while it's quite pleasant it's not exactly a glamorous interior. Though I must say the staff were very pleasant.
So if you're going to go make sure to take someone with you to share the pot!
Today I stopped in to Marriage Freres for tea which is right across from our apartment and my pot of tea was 11 euro. I kid you not. Seriously that is insane especially given that while it's quite pleasant it's not exactly a glamorous interior. Though I must say the staff were very pleasant.
So if you're going to go make sure to take someone with you to share the pot!
Feb 21st, 2013, 01:24 PM
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The true foolishness is that I knew exactly how much it cost and still ordered it! OK, ok I know that means I don't get to gripe!
FYI This wasn't a case of sitting down on the pavement of a tourist cafe or ordering Champagne before dinner and being shocked by the bill.
FYI This wasn't a case of sitting down on the pavement of a tourist cafe or ordering Champagne before dinner and being shocked by the bill.
Feb 21st, 2013, 10:59 PM
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keroac - Unfortunately the moments of weakness keep repeating themselves, if I learnt my lesson every time I would indeed be a far more predictable creature!
Fortunately we're close enough for plenty of cheap falafel on the Rue Rosier. Also I'm using La Fourchette for discounted dining reservations though you have to be discerning about where you go and generally the best deals are midweek. Last night we used them for a good, reasonably priced meal at C'est Mon Plaisir on the Isle St Louis.
FMT - Tell me the truth do you double as a hawker outside one of those places?
Fortunately we're close enough for plenty of cheap falafel on the Rue Rosier. Also I'm using La Fourchette for discounted dining reservations though you have to be discerning about where you go and generally the best deals are midweek. Last night we used them for a good, reasonably priced meal at C'est Mon Plaisir on the Isle St Louis.
FMT - Tell me the truth do you double as a hawker outside one of those places?
Feb 25th, 2013, 01:49 PM
#17
Hi! Love your blog. What a treat to be here for so long. We arrived on the 10 and would have loved to meet up with you. We leave Thursday, so maybe we could figure out a time for coffee or a drink. Weather sure has taken a turn for the worst. Any way I can contact u directly? I am on TA which has private messaging.
Feb 25th, 2013, 02:46 PM
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Hi Welltraveledbrit,
Great entry and blog with excellent pics. Merci. You wrote:
“I'm listening to a series on the Louvre from Great Courses and revisiting after each short lecture. The museum is so enormous that I needed a way to break it down into more manageable chunks. I've joined and am looking forward to getting to know the place.”
Now that is my idea of a good time! Lucky you to have those weeks in Paris to prepare yourself for discrete visits to the Louvre. I know one can wander different parts of the museum without seeing another soul other than the guards, n’est pas? I love to look out those enormous windows at the courtyard below or the intricacy of the opposite façade.
Are you folks “doing” any of the smaller museums this trip? Would love to hear about them all….
Great entry and blog with excellent pics. Merci. You wrote:
“I'm listening to a series on the Louvre from Great Courses and revisiting after each short lecture. The museum is so enormous that I needed a way to break it down into more manageable chunks. I've joined and am looking forward to getting to know the place.”
Now that is my idea of a good time! Lucky you to have those weeks in Paris to prepare yourself for discrete visits to the Louvre. I know one can wander different parts of the museum without seeing another soul other than the guards, n’est pas? I love to look out those enormous windows at the courtyard below or the intricacy of the opposite façade.
Are you folks “doing” any of the smaller museums this trip? Would love to hear about them all….
Feb 26th, 2013, 01:51 AM
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Thanks for all the encouragement. I've been doing the blog for a few years now and it's a fun way to hold onto your holiday memories and functionally it's a place to send friends when they ask where should I go what should I do!
yestravel it would be fun to meet up. There's a contact me section on the website or on g mail I'm welltravbrit@...
latedattraveler one of the things I'm hoping to do over the next few months is to go to lots of the smaller museums. I'm particularly fond of small individual collections and period interiors, the Soane Museum and the Leighton House in London are two of my favorites. I'll certainly be blogging about smaller museums while we're here. In fact I'm open to any suggestions for places to go!
yestravel it would be fun to meet up. There's a contact me section on the website or on g mail I'm welltravbrit@...
latedattraveler one of the things I'm hoping to do over the next few months is to go to lots of the smaller museums. I'm particularly fond of small individual collections and period interiors, the Soane Museum and the Leighton House in London are two of my favorites. I'll certainly be blogging about smaller museums while we're here. In fact I'm open to any suggestions for places to go!
Feb 26th, 2013, 04:14 AM
#20
don't miss Musee Nissim de camondo. We have also been to a couple gret photo exits...one at Cartier Bresson ( free on Wed evening after 6:30) and another at the Maison European de Photographie in the Marais.
Just returned from the very excellent Chagall exhibit at the Luxembourg-get your tax in advance to avoid lines.
Welltrav-.you've got mail.
Just returned from the very excellent Chagall exhibit at the Luxembourg-get your tax in advance to avoid lines.
Welltrav-.you've got mail.
