Our Sicily Trip (with a little Zurich and Venice thrown in!)
Mar 13th, 2008, 10:06 AM
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Our Sicily Trip (with a little Zurich and Venice thrown in!)
DH and I returned last Saturday night from a delightful 15 day trip.
Our primary focus was Sicily, but we used miles so we ended up with a little Zurich and Venice (not too bad!).
We choose Sicily becuase this was our eighth trip to Italy and we wanted to try a completely new area. Also, we needed to go from February 21-March 8, and we wanted it to be warm, so Sicily was the logical choice.
Here is where we went:
Zurich (1 night)
Palermo (4 nights)
Agrigneto (2 nights)
Modica (2 nights)
Siracusa (2 nights)
Taormina (2 nights)
Venice (2 nights)
It was a lot of moving around, which I really don't like, but we wanted to get a good sampling of Sicily and this schedule allowed for that. I would probably not move that quickly again, but we did see a lot and had a wonderful time, so I could probably be convinced.
Logistics were as follows: we used all types of transport - planes, trains, buses, taxis, cars, and boats. I will post about that more.
I will post about the hotels next...
Our primary focus was Sicily, but we used miles so we ended up with a little Zurich and Venice (not too bad!).
We choose Sicily becuase this was our eighth trip to Italy and we wanted to try a completely new area. Also, we needed to go from February 21-March 8, and we wanted it to be warm, so Sicily was the logical choice.
Here is where we went:
Zurich (1 night)
Palermo (4 nights)
Agrigneto (2 nights)
Modica (2 nights)
Siracusa (2 nights)
Taormina (2 nights)
Venice (2 nights)
It was a lot of moving around, which I really don't like, but we wanted to get a good sampling of Sicily and this schedule allowed for that. I would probably not move that quickly again, but we did see a lot and had a wonderful time, so I could probably be convinced.
Logistics were as follows: we used all types of transport - planes, trains, buses, taxis, cars, and boats. I will post about that more.
I will post about the hotels next...
Mar 13th, 2008, 10:14 AM
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In Zurich, we stayed at iPR Guesthouse Zürich.
This is a small place located in a great location very near the train station (but far enough away that it was quiet). Our room was spotlessly clean and comfy and the price was right - 169 CHF. Breakfast would have been extra and we were leaving early so we didn't get it.
I found iPR on tripadvisor and while I was a bit hesitant (becuase I couldn't find it talked about anywhere else), with the location being perfect and the price right, we gave it a try.
I would definitely stay there again and I would completely recommend it.
http://www.sleepinzurich.ch/index2.html
This is a small place located in a great location very near the train station (but far enough away that it was quiet). Our room was spotlessly clean and comfy and the price was right - 169 CHF. Breakfast would have been extra and we were leaving early so we didn't get it.
I found iPR on tripadvisor and while I was a bit hesitant (becuase I couldn't find it talked about anywhere else), with the location being perfect and the price right, we gave it a try.
I would definitely stay there again and I would completely recommend it.
http://www.sleepinzurich.ch/index2.html
Mar 13th, 2008, 10:27 AM
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In Palermo, we stayed at Hotel Plaza Opera.
www.hotelplazaopera.com
Usually DH and I like to stay in small B&Bs and not bigger hotels. However, in cities that I think might be tricky, I change my theories and like to stay in larger hotels with more services (just for my own comfort). So as we thought Palermo might be tricky, we stayed in a bigger hotel.
Plaza Opera was a great find! The hotel is really new - I would like it is less than 3-4 years old. There was no street noise (at least in our room). And it is located about a block from Piazza Politeama which is a very nice location.
Our room was fresh and new. We splurged and got a Superior room. The rate was 172 Euro per night with breakfast included. Everyone who worked at the hotel was really helpful and made us feel very welcome.
We were the only non-Italians that we saw during our stay which was fine with us!
Another plus to this hotel is that it happened to be located within walking distance of serveral restaurants suggested in our guidebooks and it was about a block away from a great bar call "Berlin Bar" which we frequented each evening.
We would definitely stay at this hotel again and I would completely recommend it.
www.hotelplazaopera.com
Usually DH and I like to stay in small B&Bs and not bigger hotels. However, in cities that I think might be tricky, I change my theories and like to stay in larger hotels with more services (just for my own comfort). So as we thought Palermo might be tricky, we stayed in a bigger hotel.
Plaza Opera was a great find! The hotel is really new - I would like it is less than 3-4 years old. There was no street noise (at least in our room). And it is located about a block from Piazza Politeama which is a very nice location.
Our room was fresh and new. We splurged and got a Superior room. The rate was 172 Euro per night with breakfast included. Everyone who worked at the hotel was really helpful and made us feel very welcome.
We were the only non-Italians that we saw during our stay which was fine with us!
Another plus to this hotel is that it happened to be located within walking distance of serveral restaurants suggested in our guidebooks and it was about a block away from a great bar call "Berlin Bar" which we frequented each evening.
We would definitely stay at this hotel again and I would completely recommend it.
Mar 13th, 2008, 10:40 AM
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In Agrigento, we stayed in a lovely little B&B called Terrazze di Montelusa B&B which is owned and run by a delightful man named Francesco Foti.
The B&B is located right in the middle of the old section of Agrigento on a little square called Piazza Lena.
Although the B&B doesn't have private parking, we were able to find parking in Piazza Lena (right in front of the B&B twice). And I think that if you couldn't find parking there, there are some lots nearby and of course the streets.
This little B&B was lovely with two huge terraces offering views of the temples (in the distance) and a third terrace overlooking the streets of Agrigento.
We booked a double room, but Francesco put us in a one bedroom apartment! It was very spacious and clean and had everything one could want.
Francesco made us feel so welcome and at home. Upon our arrival, he told us the history of the building and showed us various pictures. Then we had a welcome drink on the terrace.
I asked him if there was a place in town I could do laundry - he said no, but let me put a load into the hotel's washing machine! It was so kind of him - and we were so thankful (given that without that I would have been scrubbing underwear out in the sink later that day).
The B&B was 70 Euro a night and it included breakfast. Breakfast was put together by Francesco and featured yogurt, cookies, and bread along with coffee.
Like the previous two hotels I reviewed, I would wholeheartedly recommend this one, especially because the Francesco was so wonderful. When we left he mapped out our drived to Modica and gave us all kinds of great advice on restaurants, etc. while we were there. Seriously, we felt like we were staying with a friend!
www.terrazzedimontelusa.it
The B&B is located right in the middle of the old section of Agrigento on a little square called Piazza Lena.
Although the B&B doesn't have private parking, we were able to find parking in Piazza Lena (right in front of the B&B twice). And I think that if you couldn't find parking there, there are some lots nearby and of course the streets.
This little B&B was lovely with two huge terraces offering views of the temples (in the distance) and a third terrace overlooking the streets of Agrigento.
We booked a double room, but Francesco put us in a one bedroom apartment! It was very spacious and clean and had everything one could want.
Francesco made us feel so welcome and at home. Upon our arrival, he told us the history of the building and showed us various pictures. Then we had a welcome drink on the terrace.
I asked him if there was a place in town I could do laundry - he said no, but let me put a load into the hotel's washing machine! It was so kind of him - and we were so thankful (given that without that I would have been scrubbing underwear out in the sink later that day).
The B&B was 70 Euro a night and it included breakfast. Breakfast was put together by Francesco and featured yogurt, cookies, and bread along with coffee.
Like the previous two hotels I reviewed, I would wholeheartedly recommend this one, especially because the Francesco was so wonderful. When we left he mapped out our drived to Modica and gave us all kinds of great advice on restaurants, etc. while we were there. Seriously, we felt like we were staying with a friend!
www.terrazzedimontelusa.it
Mar 13th, 2008, 10:48 AM
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Welcome home Sally, am enjoying your report, Sicily is on our "to-do" list! Look forward to reading the rest. Didn't you just love Taormina? We only had a day there many moons ago on a cruise.
Hope to see you at the next Fodors CTG
Hope to see you at the next Fodors CTG
Mar 13th, 2008, 01:09 PM
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Sally,
After all these years as fellow Fodorites, I can't wait to read the rest of your report! Mille grazie! Sicily is my next Italian trip - although it may be a while with the $ value. I'm bookmarking your lodging choices.
After all these years as fellow Fodorites, I can't wait to read the rest of your report! Mille grazie! Sicily is my next Italian trip - although it may be a while with the $ value. I'm bookmarking your lodging choices.
Mar 13th, 2008, 01:16 PM
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In Modica, we stayed at Casa Talia.
This is a small B&B owned and run by two architects who designed the rooms.
Finding the Casa was no small feat. Prior to leaving for Sicily, I had purchased the TCI atlas for Southern Italy and I had purcased city maps for nearly all the places we were headed to. However, I couldn't find one for Modica. And I forgot to get directions off of viamichelin.com before we left. So we were left with the directions on the Casa's website and with our atlas.
The atlas worked for getting us to Modica, but to find the Casa, we used the assistance of a kind stranger who we had asked for directions. She said that we'd never find it and she would help. She spent the next hour driving us up and down the streets of Modica in search of our B&B, soliciting help from more locals along the way. Finally we found it with her help and with a call to the owner, but it was not simple.
Getting back to the Casa itself, I would say that in terms of looks, it was the prettiest place we stayed. The views were amazing. They had terraces for us to use. The rooms were absolutely stunning. Everything was very modern and designed really flawlessly (except for noise - see below).
And the breakfast was splendid. We had many great breakfasts on our trip and this one took third place -it was excellant.
The only thing I didn't like about Casa Talia was that our room and the room next to us were basically one building carved out of the hillside. The rooms were seperated by a wall. Each time our neighbors flushed the toilet, it sounded like the whole building was toppling in. And when the neighbors came in and out of their front door it made so much noise, it sounded as if they were entering our room (and not in a quiet way).
So I would stay at Casa Talia again, but with reservations (and in a different room than the one we had (Il Cedro) becuase we really didn't get the greatest sleep owing to the noise.
The price was 130 Euro per night, but we received one night free due their participation that in a B&B day that was posted about here (thanks Vincenzo)!
http://www.casatalia.it/
This is a small B&B owned and run by two architects who designed the rooms.
Finding the Casa was no small feat. Prior to leaving for Sicily, I had purchased the TCI atlas for Southern Italy and I had purcased city maps for nearly all the places we were headed to. However, I couldn't find one for Modica. And I forgot to get directions off of viamichelin.com before we left. So we were left with the directions on the Casa's website and with our atlas.
The atlas worked for getting us to Modica, but to find the Casa, we used the assistance of a kind stranger who we had asked for directions. She said that we'd never find it and she would help. She spent the next hour driving us up and down the streets of Modica in search of our B&B, soliciting help from more locals along the way. Finally we found it with her help and with a call to the owner, but it was not simple.
Getting back to the Casa itself, I would say that in terms of looks, it was the prettiest place we stayed. The views were amazing. They had terraces for us to use. The rooms were absolutely stunning. Everything was very modern and designed really flawlessly (except for noise - see below).
And the breakfast was splendid. We had many great breakfasts on our trip and this one took third place -it was excellant.
The only thing I didn't like about Casa Talia was that our room and the room next to us were basically one building carved out of the hillside. The rooms were seperated by a wall. Each time our neighbors flushed the toilet, it sounded like the whole building was toppling in. And when the neighbors came in and out of their front door it made so much noise, it sounded as if they were entering our room (and not in a quiet way).
So I would stay at Casa Talia again, but with reservations (and in a different room than the one we had (Il Cedro) becuase we really didn't get the greatest sleep owing to the noise.
The price was 130 Euro per night, but we received one night free due their participation that in a B&B day that was posted about here (thanks Vincenzo)!
http://www.casatalia.it/
Mar 13th, 2008, 01:41 PM
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In Siracusa, we stayed at what was my favorite place in Sicily, Palazzo del Sale.
This adorable B&B is located in a perfectly central spot on Ortigia Island.
When you walk in, you are greeted by Luisa (if during the morning) or by Davide (if during the evening). Both of them are so knowledgeable and helpful.
Then you walk upstairs to a huge living room which has various rooms off it. There is one more floor with more rooms and a terrace.
Our room was on the main floor and was enormous! It was decorated in a modern, fresh way, but with great antiques as well. We slept like babies on the mattress and enjoyed every aspect of this little place.
We had a tiny little balcony with two chairs and tons of flowers overlooking the street below.
There was a small fridge in the room stocked with an assortment of sodas, beer, and water, all of which was complimentary and which was replenished each day - a very nice touch.
I think there are only about 5-6 rooms and this being the off season, DH and I had the whole place to ourselves one evening. On the other evening, there was one other couple saying at the Palazzo.
The breakfast here was my favorite (even better than Locanda Orseolo in Venice)! They basically had every type of pastry you ever longed for, along with cheeses, meats, yogurts, cereals, fruit, juices, and milk. It was amazing the selection (especially the morning it was just us eating) and everything was so tasty - I thought I had died and gone to heaven. (Now that I am back at home I know I didn't die, but just gained a pants size
.
The Palazzo also had a kitchen that was open for guests to use throughout the day and night if you wanted water, juice, coffee, fruit, other stuff. It was pretty extensive. Being that we were eating overly well at meals, I only had some water, but if I had gotten the munchies, I would have been well taken care of.
Our double room cost 90 Euro a night.
I would stay here again for sure without any hesitation!
http://www.palazzodelsale.com/english/
This adorable B&B is located in a perfectly central spot on Ortigia Island.
When you walk in, you are greeted by Luisa (if during the morning) or by Davide (if during the evening). Both of them are so knowledgeable and helpful.
Then you walk upstairs to a huge living room which has various rooms off it. There is one more floor with more rooms and a terrace.
Our room was on the main floor and was enormous! It was decorated in a modern, fresh way, but with great antiques as well. We slept like babies on the mattress and enjoyed every aspect of this little place.
We had a tiny little balcony with two chairs and tons of flowers overlooking the street below.
There was a small fridge in the room stocked with an assortment of sodas, beer, and water, all of which was complimentary and which was replenished each day - a very nice touch.
I think there are only about 5-6 rooms and this being the off season, DH and I had the whole place to ourselves one evening. On the other evening, there was one other couple saying at the Palazzo.
The breakfast here was my favorite (even better than Locanda Orseolo in Venice)! They basically had every type of pastry you ever longed for, along with cheeses, meats, yogurts, cereals, fruit, juices, and milk. It was amazing the selection (especially the morning it was just us eating) and everything was so tasty - I thought I had died and gone to heaven. (Now that I am back at home I know I didn't die, but just gained a pants size
.The Palazzo also had a kitchen that was open for guests to use throughout the day and night if you wanted water, juice, coffee, fruit, other stuff. It was pretty extensive. Being that we were eating overly well at meals, I only had some water, but if I had gotten the munchies, I would have been well taken care of.
Our double room cost 90 Euro a night.
I would stay here again for sure without any hesitation!
http://www.palazzodelsale.com/english/
Mar 18th, 2008, 05:20 PM
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In Taormina, we stayed at the Villa Schuler (thanks Bob the Nav).
Getting to the hotel from Siracusa was easy. The hotel's directions were perfect. We drove up to Taormina without any hitches and found a place to park right in front of the hotel (so we released our pre-reserved spots in their private lot).
The hotel was wonderful! We had splurged and got a top floor junior suite. It was a regular room with a sun room and then a big terrace with two lounge chairs and the most perfect view of the sea. Just perfect! While the decor of the hotel is a bit older, the things that matter are all upgraded - the towels are thick and fluffy, the sheets were crisp and cottony, and the tv (to the extent watched) is a flat panel!
Everyone at the hotel was kind and helpful and professional.
Finally, location, location, location. The hotel is in one of the most perfect spots. It is central and not too many streets to the drag, but just far enough off the main street to be quiet. And there is a huge garden behind the hotel that envelopes the hotel in beautiful green and blooms.
Our room was 196 euro, but there was a 20% for staying two nights, so we paid about 157 euro per night with breakfast.
www.hotelvillaschuler.com
www.villaschuler.com
Getting to the hotel from Siracusa was easy. The hotel's directions were perfect. We drove up to Taormina without any hitches and found a place to park right in front of the hotel (so we released our pre-reserved spots in their private lot).
The hotel was wonderful! We had splurged and got a top floor junior suite. It was a regular room with a sun room and then a big terrace with two lounge chairs and the most perfect view of the sea. Just perfect! While the decor of the hotel is a bit older, the things that matter are all upgraded - the towels are thick and fluffy, the sheets were crisp and cottony, and the tv (to the extent watched) is a flat panel!
Everyone at the hotel was kind and helpful and professional.
Finally, location, location, location. The hotel is in one of the most perfect spots. It is central and not too many streets to the drag, but just far enough off the main street to be quiet. And there is a huge garden behind the hotel that envelopes the hotel in beautiful green and blooms.
Our room was 196 euro, but there was a 20% for staying two nights, so we paid about 157 euro per night with breakfast.
www.hotelvillaschuler.com
www.villaschuler.com
Mar 18th, 2008, 06:25 PM
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In Venice, we stayed at an old favorite - Locanda Orseolo.
This was our third stay at the Locanda and it was still as fantastic as before! I won't say much about this hotel as it is highly discussed on this site, but it is a fantastic place.
We also visited their new hotel, Al Ponte Antico. All I can say is WOW! They did a lot of renovations in right before Carnivale and it looks incredible. Next time, I think we want to give it a try.
www.locandaorseolo.com
We paid 200 euro per night for a fantastic superior overlooking the canal including an amazing breakfast.
This was our third stay at the Locanda and it was still as fantastic as before! I won't say much about this hotel as it is highly discussed on this site, but it is a fantastic place.
We also visited their new hotel, Al Ponte Antico. All I can say is WOW! They did a lot of renovations in right before Carnivale and it looks incredible. Next time, I think we want to give it a try.
www.locandaorseolo.com
We paid 200 euro per night for a fantastic superior overlooking the canal including an amazing breakfast.
