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Your TR has such a high WOW factor! Those spectacular pictures of early morning with the mist and fog in Siena, and your enthusiastic descriptions, and the food!
Ah... Italia! Bellissima!!! |
More Florence photos - the Uffizi Gallery, The Piazzale Michelangelo, Ponte Vecchio, and our delicious Florentine steak dinner
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e42a116a8.jpeg The elegant corridor of the Uffizi Gallery. the Uffizi contains the world's richest collection of Renaissance paintings and sculptures, including masterpieces by Botticelli, Raphael, Michelangelo, and Caravaggio. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...193a429d7.jpeg The very famous "Birth of Venus" by Botticelli. The Goddess of Love and Beauty arrives on land, on the island of Cyprus. She is born of the sea spray and blown there by the winds, Zephyr and Aura. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...001cdd153.jpeg "La Primavera" by Botticelli. The scene takes place in Venus' garden. The goddess is in the center of the painting, and Cupid flies above her, his arrow aimed at one of the three Graces. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...eedfa5fae.jpeg I forgot what this painting is - but I think it's beautiful https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...34ae801ff.jpeg Pallas and the Centaur by Botticelli. It is believed that the feminine figure is Pallas Athena (Minverva), goddess of knowledge, or Camilla, virgin and warrior. She is dragging the centaur by the hair. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...40b3cdca6.jpeg Another beautiful painting - I took notes on some of the paintings but can't figure out who painted some of them. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1f2497ee8.jpeg View of the Arno River and Ponte Vecchio from the Uffizi Gallery https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...596446e45.jpeg Another lovely painting https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...17d6ee3ae.jpeg The corridor that connects the two wings of the Uffizi. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0254caea1.jpeg The sculptures and the painting are grand! https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d5f13c0ee.jpeg We took a taxi to Piazzale Michelangelo - this is the breathtaking view from the terrace https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1ac340eda.jpeg Stunning view of Florence from the terrace https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...feec3d5aa.jpeg Another breathtaking view https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...13c963976.jpeg Walking towards the Ponte Vecchio on our way back from Piazzale Michelangelo. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d678dd7d9.jpeg Walking across the Ponte Vecchio https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3cb1299e2.jpeg The carousel in Piazza della Repubblica https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...abee6953b.jpeg Fountain of Neptune in Piazza della Signoria https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d9dc1ce09.jpeg Neptune in the evening https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c56b84155.jpeg Entrance to Trattoria del Chianti where we had the delicious Florentine steak dinner. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...773dd0028.jpeg The warm and inviting Trattoria del Chianti https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...68403346e.jpeg Our delicious steak dinner with roasted potatoes and a salad. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c1f46a186.jpeg Enjoying our Chianti wine. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0d31ac779.jpeg Everywhere we went we saw stores selling all kinds of Pinocchio merchandise. We were wondering why. Duh!!! I had completely forgotten that the Italian author of Pinocchio is from Florence, and the story takes place in Tuscany. So we stopped into this store, chatted with the friendly owner, and I purchased Pinocchio pens for our grandchildren. |
I think Florence was much worse than CT. I think CT could be managed where as I don't see how you get around Florence. That's why I wondered if staying in Oltrarno might be a nice place for that afternoon break from the crowds, even though I don't envision visiting Florence again.
CT was as you described, quiet in the mornings and nights. I think if you get out early you can enjoy another town before the crowds arrive. We headed to Monterosso early, and it was very pleasant, but our next stop in Vernazza was what you dread about CT, crowded with the trains in and out of there equally as crowded. But you could take an afternoon break back at your hotel and then the evenings were delightful. I think checking the Cruises in Port chart is crucial in planning, days without thousands descending makes a huge difference. |
so many people, many looking bored, it would drive me crazy
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It was 9 years ago that we were in Florence, it was so hot and crowded - I remember incidents like a chap on the very full train who was flagging and I gave him my water bottle, and an elderly woman who passed out in a restaurant and the ambulance was called, funny how heat and crowds are embedded in memory and yet I don’t recall much of what we did.
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Following along…such a wonderful report—thanks. And great to get your perspective on Florence—I haven’t been there in ages and what you’ve said about the crowds will give me serious pause.
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Agreed with Student2B.
I am done. the crowdage and the flagging seniors |
Originally Posted by leifields
(Post 17666449)
Your TR has such a high WOW factor! Those spectacular pictures of early morning with the mist and fog in Siena, and your enthusiastic descriptions, and the food!
Ah... Italia! Bellissima!!! |
Originally Posted by coral22
(Post 17666476)
I think Florence was much worse than CT. I think CT could be managed where as I don't see how you get around Florence. That's why I wondered if staying in Oltrarno might be a nice place for that afternoon break from the crowds, even though I don't envision visiting Florence again.
CT was as you described, quiet in the mornings and nights. I think if you get out early you can enjoy another town before the crowds arrive. We headed to Monterosso early, and it was very pleasant, but our next stop in Vernazza was what you dread about CT, crowded with the trains in and out of there equally as crowded. But you could take an afternoon break back at your hotel and then the evenings were delightful. I think checking the Cruises in Port chart is crucial in planning, days without thousands descending makes a huge difference. Regarding Florence, I think staying in Oltrarno or Santa Croce could be quieter places to stay. |
Originally Posted by Adelaidean
(Post 17666503)
It was 9 years ago that we were in Florence, it was so hot and crowded - I remember incidents like a chap on the very full train who was flagging and I gave him my water bottle, and an elderly woman who passed out in a restaurant and the ambulance was called, funny how heat and crowds are embedded in memory and yet I don’t recall much of what we did.
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studenttobe and zebec, I hope you both realize that I am not trying to dissuade anyone from visiting Florence. It is an amazing city with stunning and important art and architecture. We appreciated everything we saw, and we especially had fun at the Il Mercato Centrale. But I do believe it's important to be honest about our experiences, especially crowds, since I know many people have a strong aversion to crowds. Then people can decide for themselves if this is the place for them. Personally, I never eliminate a destination from my itinerary based on crowds. If it's a place I really want to see, I will go and hopefully plan wisely to minimize the crowds. I might not return because of the crowds, but that's ok with us. We usually prefer to see new places on each trip, anyways.
Thanks for following along, and for your compliments! |
The last batch of photos from Florence: The Duomo Complex and the Santa Croce District
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bb91095a2.jpeg The Duomo Complex https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...13f4a6153.jpeg The Duomo Complex https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...23b868404.jpeg The Florence Duomo https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b42e9bccc.jpeg The Santa Reparata crypt was discovered in 1966. The Duomo was built on its site. This was our favorite part of the Duomo Complex. It is fascinating and so interesting. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d857f31fa.jpeg Remains of a wall in the Santa Reparata crypt. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9e69c2780.jpeg There are large fragments of mosaic flooring https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a0180b797.jpeg Remains of a frescoe https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ecd797adb.jpeg An altar https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a82daf077.jpeg More mosaic flooring https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a493cd92e.jpeg With the Ghiberti Pass, the first place you visit is the Santa Reparata crypt. Then you proceed back upstairs to visit the Duomo. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...82bd77f4e.jpeg The Duomo https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4d0e7cb20.jpeg The exterior of the Baptistery. The doors are a replica. The original door is in the Museo to protect them from the elements. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ecc3e0142.jpeg The Baptistery https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cb04d94b2.jpeg We also really enjoyed the Museo dell'Opera del Duomo. Very interesting and very well done. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4f1331439.jpeg Original Baptistery door - now located in the Museo dell'Opera del Duomo. This is Ghiberti's East Door know as the Gate of Paradise. Depicts scenes from the Old Testament. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d57b673f3.jpeg Close-up detail https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...aeebbc679.jpeg Close-up detail https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3fe7734ee.jpeg The cantorie, choir galleries, in the Museo. Once surmounted the doors of the sacristies in the cathedral. I think this one is by Donatello. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...05271106b.jpeg St. Catherine in pink and gold https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3f36db14b.jpeg Evocative fresco of one of the Apostles https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...28cea0fae.jpeg Basilica di Santa Croce - because it was evening the Basilica was closed so we weren't able to see the interior, which I understand is amazing. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...658741048.jpeg Piazza Santa Croce - hardly any people - I don't know what it is like during the daytime. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4d3282a61.jpeg Pretty building in Piazza Santa Croce https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...53fd93f00.jpeg Our pizza and salad from Berbere Pizza in the Santa Croce District https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d14a522ff.jpeg We had lunch on this day in the Il Mercato Centrale - I took some photos of a bakery and its delicious desserts. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6b36cd76c.jpeg More delicious desserts! |
Thank you (and Ed) again for your continuing fabulous pictures and your detailed report. I am sure this will be the go to reference report for many for years to come. I agree that it would be a shame to never experience Florence but to be aware that it will not be a relaxing experience. That's why heading to somewhere serene afterward works out well!
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Karen, Florence is sensory overload, in more ways than one. It is the center of Renaissance art and architecture, which everyone wants to see. I’m sorry it was so crazy crowded, that really detracts from the whole experience.
We last visited in May 2016 and also stayed on Via Dante Alighieri. B&B Dante Alighieri I believe, they had a small apartment next door which we were renting. Only one flight of stairs luckily! It’s a pity you didn’t get to visit the Santa Croce Basilica, it was one of my favorites in Florence. Resting place of so many luminaries of the Renaissance, I was totally awestruck. It reminded me of the Poets Corner in Westminster Abbey. Thanks again for this marvelous masterpiece of a TR, so looking forward to the subsequent episodes! |
Thanks for this marvelous trip report -- so much covered! Don't know who painted the first annunciation at the Uffizi, but I believe the second one, with gold leaf, is by Martini.
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Karen, Totally understood what you are saying re Florence-and thanks. I, too, don’t avoid favorite places bec of heavy crowds. I continue to return to Venice as often as possible and just plan my lodging and walking there more carefully than I used to do. Will do the same if and when I have the opportunity to return to Florence.
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As above.
I am done. the Florentine pogen |
We are revisiting Florence for a week in the last week in September. Last time we were there was in 2014.
This trip report has been a wonderful insight for our planning. We are in the "slow travel" mode these days. We don't need to tick off big ticket items these days, but do enjoy revisiting some of our favourites. I am in two minds on whether we visit Academia ( did not go in 2014, we had been there in 1982). But as I think it may be my last visit opportunity, so I should go. We love food markets and wandering around, resting in cafes and people watching. I have fond memories of nights in Florence wandering around, so we hope to enjoy them again. |
Thank you to everyone who is following along! I appreciate all of your compliments and comments.
Aussie_10, I think you should definitely re-visit the Accademia. David is worth seeing over and over again!:love: What's great about re-visiting favorite places is that as you say you "don't need to tick off big tickets items these days." Fra_Diavolo, thanks for the info about Martini! geetika, how I wish we had time to visit the Santa Croce Basilica. I've read so many rave reviews. I can see how it would be easy to make a second trip to Florence and not be bored. |
May 20: From Florence to Bologna
Patricia called a cab for us, and she also carried 2 of our suitcases down the 44 steps! And she was fast! She is not young, either. I don’t know how she did it. She put me to shame, that’s for sure. 😊 It was nice taking a cab to the train station with our luggage instead of walking like we did when we arrived. After about a 40 minute train ride, we arrived in Bologna in the drizzling rain. We took a cab to our hotel, Casa Bertagni. This is a wonderful place to stay, located in the University district. Our room and bathroom were huge! Such a nice change from our teeny tiny room in Florence. And we were on the ground floor! Martin and Roberta are the two staff members we interacted with the most, and they are both helpful, professional, and warm and friendly. My husband didn’t care for the University District because of all of the graffiti and construction work with scaffolding and temporary walls set up. Graffiti doesn’t bother me as much, but combined with the construction work it did take away from the ambiance. We don’t necessarily need to stay in elegant and pristine areas; I love interesting and creative street art, such as in the Le Panier district of Marseille, but the graffiti here wasn’t all that interesting or creative. However, I did enjoy intermingling with young students while walking and not always being surrounded by tourists! On our first day in Bologna we had lunch at a casual café that appears to be a favorite haunt of the students. This was about half way through our trip, and we had seen plenty of art museums, cathedrals, and churches, so we agreed we would skip those while in Bologna. But I was able to convince Ed to visit a very special church enclave tomorrow! So this afternoon we spent the day just wandering and exploring Bologna. We walked to Piazza Maggiore and to Piazza del Nettuno, where the Neptune fountain is located. Walked through the old market which is very different from Florence’s Il Mercado Centrale. Bologna’s market (the Quadrilatero) is not in a market hall but is a series of narrow lanes with stalls and restaurants. It was very quiet in the late afternoon. We walked through many porticoes. I am sure most people know that Bologna is famous for its signature porticoes which were given Unesco World Heritage status in 2021. There are so many of them; some are very elegant and some are more gritty with graffiti. Many of them were built during the 12th and 13th centuries. We had dinner reservations for tonight at Ristorante Cesari, recommended by MaiTaiTom and Progol. This was our favorite restaurant in Bologna! The service was wonderful, and the food is delicious. We shared a plate of Tagliatelle Bolognese Ragu. For our mains, I ordered scallopine with ham and Parmesan cheese, and Ed ordered Beef cheeks. We shared a dessert sampler. |
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