Bosnia (Sarajevo/Mostar) Trip

Old Dec 21st, 2017, 04:10 AM
  #1  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Bosnia (Sarajevo/Mostar) Trip

Here's my trip report from my trip to Bosnia this Autumn. (to see the pictures this is the link to my blog - http://www.adventuresofelis.com/2017...ptivating.html ) I hope you find this info useful! I've included a background of the country, some places of interest in Sarajevo + Mostar and some budgeting tips.

I’ll begin by addressing the huge elephant in the room – Bosnia has not upheld the best reputation in recent decades. Whenever you hear the country’s name mentioned in the media, it’s usually for the wrong reasons. And it’s quite safe to say that it’s not your typical destination for British jetsetters. Despite all this, I’d been intrigued by the country for a while and jumped at the opportunity to visit!
Whilst I’d usually try to avoid spouting facts and figures in these articles, I think it’d be difficult to fully understand Bosnia without briefly touching on its rather bumpy history. Condensed down, the country’s timeline looks something like this: Ottoman Empire; Austro-Hungarian rule; world wars; Yugoslav communism; declaration of independence; Bosnian War; post-war recovery.

Modern-day Bosnia is made up of three major people groups - the Muslim Bosniaks, the Orthodox Serbs and the Catholic Croats. Tensions between these groups culminated in the brutal war of the 1990s, which tragically saw the loss of 101, 000 lives – mainly civilians. Whilst fighting broke out in all corners of the country, the capital Sarajevo endured the longest siege in modern history - residents were effectively trapped in the city for a terrifying 1425 days, whilst military forces would relentlessly and indiscriminately fire artillery from surrounding hills.

Unsurprisingly, reminders of war are everywhere. Travelling in Bosnia can be emotionally draining, but massively insightful. I found myself becoming so appreciative of my comparatively peaceful life when speaking to individuals, of my own age, who’d lived through this sheer terror and come out the other end.

A lot of the buildings in central Sarajevo have been repaired or replaced since the end of the war, but you don’t have to venture far from the centre before bullet holes in walls become the norm. Every other building is scarred to varying extents – it’s really quite haunting. War cemeteries are so extensive that they form white blankets across the hillsides. In Mostar, the damage is only more blatant; collapsed buildings simply blend into the now thriving streets.

I started my journey in the country’s capital – Sarajevo. If there’s any place in the world where east and west collide, it would have to be Sarajevo. It really is a place where cultures fuse together, in the most intriguing way. The city is a metaphorical ‘onion’, formed from three very distinct ‘layers’ radiating outwards from a very picturesque historic centre. Each of these layers is fascinating its own right, each depicting its own chapter of Bosnian history.

The city’s historic core – known as Baščaršija - is thankfully much easier to explore than it is to pronounce! This small tangle of Ottoman-era lanes and alleys is where most of Sarajevo’s ‘must-see’ sights can be found. It’s like a mini, less hectic İstanbul. Don’t miss the stunning Gazi Husrev-beg mosque, the old clock tower, the bezistan covered markets and the Morića Han caravanserai. With towering minarets, old stone buildings and colourful bazaars, this is an enchanting district to explore. There’s a good chance you’ll hear the Muslim call to prayer, which echoes through streets five times a day. It’s a truly beautiful and magical experience.

Perhaps the most famous sight in the old town is the Latin Bridge. The assassination of Austro-Hungarian Archduke Franz Ferdinand took place beside this bridge in 1914, sparking World War I. A plaque marks the exact spot (which is actually on the adjacent street Zelenih Beretki, not on the bridge itself).

Walking outwards from the old town, you’ll reach the next ‘layer’ of Sarajevo. This is the Austro-Hungarian district. In direct contrast with Baščaršija’s quaint, olde-worlde atmosphere, this part of town is bold and modern. Wide European-style boulevards replace narrow lanes and churches replace mosques. The intersection of the two districts is abrupt and quite bizarre; it’s like walking from İstanbul to Vienna along the same street!

Continuing outwards along the main street (it may be an idea to hop on a tram at this stage), you’ll reach the outermost ‘layer’ of the city. This is the communist-era ‘grey belt’ which developed during the Yugoslav years. It’s essentially an endless corridor of brutalist grey-concrete apartment blocks (if you’ve visited any of the Eastern bloc countries, you’ll know what I mean). It’s visually unattractive, but offers an insight into an authentic Bosnian neighbourhood.
Sarajevo is quite unlike any city I’ve ever seen. The mix of mosques, catholic and orthodox churches and even synagogues makes the place unique. Scarred deeply by war and suffering, the resilience and ‘lust for life’ of locals is hugely admirable.

My second stop was the western city of Mostar. I didn’t have as much time here as I’d have hoped, but I’m grateful to have had the opportunity to visit and managed to do a whirlwind tour! The journey from Sarajevo carves its way through a gorge of the Dinaric Alps - it’s a very pretty ride. I really loved Mostar, right from the moment I stepped off the bus. The vibe here was so upbeat - perhaps it was the sunny weather - I can’t quite put my finger on it! Despite its troubled past, Mostar has a real vibrancy. It’s such a charming place to explore. The historic centre is idyllic, with its rustic Ottoman-era architecture and towering minarets. The city is by no means ‘touristy’, but the people here seemed to be much more accustomed to the sight of backpackers, probably because of it’s proximity to the Croatian border.

Mostar’s star attraction is its world-famous Ottoman bridge – Stari Most. Asides from being very pretty to look at, this bridge is so symbolic. It physically and metaphorically bridges the gap between the Muslim and Christian 'worlds'. It was deliberately destroyed by artillery fire in 1993, but rebuilt as an exact replica in 2004.

Both Sarajevo and Mostar are small cities, which can be covered easily by foot over the course of a few days. There’s a small, but well-established backpacking scene in Sarajevo and a bigger scene in Mostar - you’ll have no problem meeting like-minded travellers in either place. There are some excellent free walking tours in both cities. The country is very affordable - expect to pay 15-18 BAM a night in a hostel dorm (1 BAM = £0.45 GBP at the time of writing) or around 45 BAM for a budget hotel. Food is very cheap by western standards – expect to pay between 10 and 15 BAM for a local Bosnian dish in a mid-range restaurant. Alcohol is widely available and extremely cheap – a beer should cost around 2.50 BAM.

I'll never forget the time I spent in Bosnia. It's had such a profound impact on me - more so than most places I've visited. It was a huge learning experience. It's a captivating and intriguing land of colliding cultures, beautiful architecture and rugged natural beauty, but it’s also troubled and scarred, picking up the pieces of brutal conflict. The atrocities the Bosnians endured during the 1990s are on a scale that my mind is unable to comprehend. I hope with all my heart that this country's future is brighter than its past.
elisgriffiths is offline  
Old Dec 21st, 2017, 06:44 AM
  #2  
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 15,729
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks...I visited both cities before the war!
It was all you describe but without the scars and irreparable damage of conflict

I never went back.
danon is offline  
Old Dec 21st, 2017, 02:28 PM
  #3  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
@danon, I would be very interested to see how things have changed!
elisgriffiths is offline  
Old Dec 21st, 2017, 02:59 PM
  #4  
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 3,566
Received 22 Likes on 8 Posts
"I'll never forget the time I spent in Bosnia."

I haven't been but our son would say the same thing. He was there last year and was interviewed by a local TV crew (at the Olympic ski jump venue which he had hiked to) about why he was there. Off camera the woman said "you could go anywhere and you came here. We don't get a lot of tourists here." It struck him as very sad.
xcountry is offline  
Old Dec 21st, 2017, 03:41 PM
  #5  
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,453
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thank you so much for this detailed and well written report. I want to get to Bosnia soon - I have been close, and I love Bosnian food, but I have never made it over the Croatian border. Hopefully soon and I will go armed with your report!
rialtogrl is offline  
Old Dec 21st, 2017, 05:15 PM
  #6  
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,767
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
We also recently visited the western Balkans this sept/oct and loved our time in both Mostar and Sarajevo. The history is fascinating and there was much to see as you have noted. The free walking tours were wonderful and informative. And the Bosnian food was outstanding!
dgunbug is offline  
Old Dec 21st, 2017, 05:16 PM
  #7  
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,767
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Meant to thank you too for the informative report.
dgunbug is offline  
Old Dec 22nd, 2017, 04:11 AM
  #8  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
@rialtogrl I would say it's definitely worth it! It's much less developed than Croatia and there's less tourism. It's such a fascinating place - it's a slice of Europe that still seems so untouched by the outside world!

@dgunbug I'm glad you enjoyed your trip too! How could I forget to mention the food - it was amazing! And so affordable!
elisgriffiths is offline  
Old Dec 23rd, 2017, 01:56 AM
  #9  
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 2,003
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks for the report.

Me and the cook were in Bosnia & Herzegovina a few weeks ago [28 September to 10 October]. All your photographs took me back to all the locations. The evidence of the war is, as you say, everywhere.....'Forgive, but never Forget'.

We flew from London Gatwick to Split [Croatia] with EasyJet on 26 September, and spent a couple of nights in a tidy little flat close to the Old Town/Port/Train and Bus stations. On our one full day we got the ferry across to Hvar [Stari Grad] for the day, a lovely little cruise taking 2 hours. We were in beautiful Brac earlier this year for a week, and Hvar looked equally enticing.

On the 28th we got a bus direct to Mostar, a very scenic 4 hour trip. In Mostar we stayed for 4 nights in a lovely family run place close to the bus and train stations called Motel Mozart [35 €uros for an ensuite double B&B]. It's a 10 minute walk to the Old Town. We thoroughly enjoyed Mostar, there is more to see than the very touristy Old Town, and were quite overwhelmed by all that meets the eye.

We also visited from Mostar by public bus, Medugorje [Roman Catholic Pilgrimage town], and Blagaj. We went to Medugorje as interested sceptics and left as interested sceptics. It's a beautiful 50 minute bus ride from Mostar.

On 2 October we got the early morning [0627] train to Sarajevo. The trip took just less than 2.5 hours and was absolutely wonderful....rivers, lakes, mountains, rural villages, cloud, tunnels, it was a bit like a dream. The train had free wifi, but we passed through so many tunnels it wasn't worth bothering with.....grat really as there was so much to see along the way.

We stayed in Sarajevo for 6 nights in an lovely 3rd Floor apartment close to the American Embassy, the War Museum, and Cafe Tito [great bar with lots of everything Tito] It cost £30 a night, perfect for our budget, and we couldn't have chosen better.....it looked right up and down 'Sniper Alley', and must have been terrifying place to be during the Siege of Sarajevo. No need to really say much about Sarajevo as elisgriffiths has covered just about all.

Then it was back to Mostar on the early morning train [0701], another gorgeous trip, but this time we were treated to some snow on the mountains, that had fallen since we arrived in Sarajevo. We stayed at Motel Mozart again, and were treated like part of the family.

Finally we took the bus back to Split for our final 2 nights.

A wonderful trip, Bosnia will always be in our memory.
LancasterLad is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Original Poster
Forum
Replies
Last Post
RebeccaM
Europe
13
Jul 29th, 2016 07:21 AM
LuvToRoam
Europe
5
Dec 8th, 2008 05:45 PM
nukesafe
Europe
26
Oct 27th, 2004 08:58 AM
eurotraveller
Europe
21
Aug 3rd, 2004 08:19 AM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -