Thank you. Zerlina, you are correct, we will not have a car. But we both want to see Assissi. That was part of the reason we considered Spoleto.

I guess we'll have to think about how much time we really want to spend on a train.

I don't want to confuse things as you seem to have decided on Orvieto... But the thing that's nice about staying in Assisi or Spello without a car is that you can easily take a train or bus to nearby towns without using up precious time. Orvieto is a bit more, not exactly isolated but, on its own. If you can work out transportation, try to go to Todi which is about 20 miles away.

StLgrrl, I'm chiming in a bit late here, but I'd urge you and your husband to reconsider staying in Perugia. I spent three weeks in Umbria in June, including a week in Perugia, and loved it!

For one thing, the train ride from Perugia to Assisi (well, to the train station in the village at the foot of the mountain upon which Assisi is built) is only about 20 minutes long -- extremely easy, which would leave you lots of time in Assisi. Since you've mentioned Assisi a few times, I gather it's a place you very much want to see. And it's worth it!

Tell your husband that Underground Perugia is also fascinating; it's really incorporated into everyday life! Because historic Perugia is built up the side of, and atop, a small mountain, there are escalators all over the place built into the sides of hills to get people up and down between districts. Just riding from the top of the historic centre down to the main bus station is fascinating -- you walk through underground tunnels packed with history, and the tunnels link the various escalators. Fascinating, steep little streets climb here and there; you can even climb down to a slightly scarey Etruscan cistern that dates to 3rd century BC! There are great restaurants and wine bars; lovely cafes, wonderful art and great shopping in Perugia as well.

I thought Orvieto was also lovely, but not nearly as interesting or conveniently placed as Perugia.

I hope you have a wonderful trip.

Thank you for chiming in sac. I had actually just called my husband and told him that there was no easy way to get to Assissi from Orvieto. And I was rethinking Perugia. The Basilica in Assissi is something we both want to see. However, I do want to see Orvieto as well.

He has pretty much agreed to go with whatever I think is best (isn't he sweet?). I am really leaning towards Perugia now. Thank you for your help and advice.

I too believe that Perugia would be better based on your desires to see Assisi and Spello. Orvieto is still in Umbria, of course, but its proximity makes it closer to Tuscany than some of the Umbrian hilltowns. Just curious, but is there a reason why you don't want to stay in Assisi?

Tracy

Tracy - I don't think we ever even considered Assissi. I guess it is because I just assumed it is a bigger city, and we were looking for something smaller and away from most of the bigger tourist groups. Does that make sense?

I suppose we could throw that into the running, but I'm afraid my DH's head might explode if I make him try to choose between all these great cities.

StLgrrl, I think you'll enjoy Perugia as a base. Assisi is wonderful, especially the Basilica of San Francesco. But I spent four nights in Assisi (after my week in Perugia) and that might have been a bit too long. Assisi is very quiet at night, which has its pros and cons. On a schedule as tight as yours, you might be happier catching an early train to Assisi from Perugia, putting in a good part of the day there and heading back to Perugia for drinks and dinner.

BTW, in Perugia I stayed at Hotel Fortuna and incredibly (since I was a single)for 70 euros a night, they gave me a huge room with my own terrace which was fantastic. I realize that that was June and you would be there in March, but still, it is cool to have your own little outdoor space where you can have a glass of wine and look out over the sunset (or at least the twinkling lights of Assisi and other hilltowns.) If you decide on Perugia, and the Hotel Fortuna, I'd definitely ask for room with a terrace. The hotel is likely not that busy in late winter so you'd have a great shot at it. If not, there's a wonderful large terrace on the roof of the hotel for the use of all guests. Again, you might need to hold your wine glass with your mitts, but it would likely still be enjoyable (if only for a quick drink!)

I see on the Trenitalia site that there are direct trains from Rome to Perugia; and Perugia to Florence, so I hope your transportation works out well. It might be challenge, though, to work in Orvieto as well.

Best of luck planning!

I don't want to complicate matters but I do want to underline something about the Perugia versus (anything else) debate that would make ME choose Perugia if I were in your shoes and not these sensible pumps and that is your age.

Perugia is a university town...in fact, some claim home to the most ancient university in the world. But it is also home to several large and lively contemporary college communities. It is full of young people and the life that goes with that: the food, the ambiance, the availability of a night life, the tempo.

I liked it. My husband liked it...my daughter and her friend (your age) LOVED it as that perfect combo of antiquity and modernity.

There! now you are really confused...

You know what? you will have a great time no matter what!

Ok, Perugia it is! Amazing how in less than 24 hours I can change my mind!

sac - I just emailed the Hotel Fortuna. Even if we are unable to have a room with a terrace, it still sounds lovely.

LJ - thank you very much for your input. I feel like I am tearing out my hair trying to choose a town. I know it really doesn't matter too much, because, hey, it's Italy!

So, my next question is: Can we do Assissi and Spello in one day? Or would it be better to spend the whole day in Assissi?

Assisi is worth an entire day, IMHO.

Hmmm...I don't want to confuse you anym more but if you are looking for something smaller I think Assisi would better fit that profile than Perugia. We didn't visit because my husband was nervous about trying to drive in it because it seemed so much bigger than the other towns. I'm NOT trying to sway you from staying in Perugia because it sounds like a wonderful place and I am sorry we missed it. Its just that if I was looking for something smaller I don't think I would choose Perugia as it appears to be more of a city than a town.

Tracy

Assisi is smaller than Perugia, but it is more touristy too. I'd pick Perugia, I think.

There isn't a whole lot to see in Spello except the town itself and the views of Umbria. Hit it for a couple of hours in the morning and then go to Assisi for the rest of the day. Spello train station is about a 20-minute walk from downtown Spello.

My 2 euro worth:
We did 3 nights in Orvieto (outside, actually) with Rome both before and after.

Orvieto is one of the homes of the "slow food" movement and has GREAT restaurants, even little specks on the street seem better than average. (Possibly with the exception of the area around the Duomo which caters to tourists, but didn't eat there so can't say.) Also has cultural interest with a jazz festival (don't recall when) and a number of artists studios, etc. Good museum. Great cathedral. TERRIFIC views from around town, and even better OF town. Easy drive to Todi, and from there to Spoleto if you're interested. I loved the two hours in Spoleto, just wandering and seeing the setting. Todi is quite charming and also has some noted restaurants and a neat little artists' collective.

Perugia is a university town = looking forward to spending some time there. But I'd return to Orvieto in a blink.

I can't speak to the other places you mention, but I can say that Orvieto is absolutely enchanting. Pictures do it no justice whatsoever. The people are friendly, the food is fantastic, and the scenery is to. die. for.

We spent a month in Europe, and the daytrip to Orvieto (from Rome) was our singlemost favorite day in the entire month. It's like walking into a postcard.

I think that all of this means that regardless of where StLgrrl goes, she is going to have a fabulous time! The whole area is fantastic and you are going to have a great time regardless of which town you decide to stay in.

Tracy

Tracy - You are right. I think almost any town would be ideal for us!

We have made a reservation at Hotel Fortuna in Perugia. Thank you everyone for all of your suggestions. We will probably spend the second day in Assissi, enjoying the sights there. If we have time, we may take a side trip to another little town.

If anyone has suggestions for places to eat in Perugia, we would gladly accept them!

When you enter the main piazza from Hotel Fortuna just a few steps will bring you to a line of outdoor cafes that run down the middle of the piazza (you'll understand when you see it). Almost to the end of this line there is Ristorante Pizzeria Ferrari; the menu and entrance are on the left side. We ate there two nights. The first was a Friday and it was simply wonderful - grilled meats with fried potatoes (you haven't had French fries till you have them in Italy - like those of early McDonald's if you're old enough to remember, but I digress)and delicious risotto with asparagus. But the highlight was the carpaccio! Yes, it's just raw meat but what meat! And then generously topped with parmesan and rocket. With beer and half liter of wine and cover the total was 37 Euro.

The next night was a Saturday, the city was hopping with students and people out for the evening, the restaurant was slammed and although the meal was good, service lacked somewhat. Would I go back? In a heartbeat but probably not the busiest night of the week.

Another restaurant around the corner from the art museum was da Cesarino. Lovely setting, very good food (more fries) but I felt the staff was less than patient with my husband's questions about the menu choices.

Hi, StLgrrl,

like one of the other posters said, you can easily day trip to Orvieto by train. It takes about an hour each way. It's one of the reasons that you might like to spend longer in Rome.

Are you staying in central Florence? we stayed for 6 nights last year and it was really too long. whereas our 6 nights in Rome was hardly long enough.

If you can, I'd do 5 nights Rome, 2 nights perugia, 4 nights Florence.

regards, ann

Hi StLgrrl, it sounds as if your plan is coming together really well. Did Fortuna say if they'll give you a terrace? It would be fun (although I suspect I'm easily amused!)

Before I went to Perugia, I pulled some restaurant reviews from food blogs by locals, and a friend in Toronto strongly, strongly recommended a wine bar that I really enjoyed on a few different visits. It's called La Tana Dell'Orso, very friendly and funky. Via Ulisse Rocchi, 32. Great salads at lunch, wonderful cheeses and meats with wine in the evening. It's no more than 10 minute walk from the Hotel Fortuna. If you follow the grande Corso Vanucci, the living room of Perugia, as far as the Duomo, then cut down a very steep street that runs behind the Duomo, you'll be right there. The Fortuna staff can also show you on a map.

A great, tiny and cheap pizza place right across from the Perugia Duomo at the top of the Corso is Pizzeria Mediterraneo. Small, always packed with lines out the door but things seem to move fast.

I also liked Osteria del Gambero (Ubu Re). It's also behind the Duomo at 8, Via Balderschi. A bit pricey but interesting, modern food and a jazzy feel, the hotel staff showed me on the map exactly how to find it.

I hope you have a great time, and I think you'll find Assisi enchanting. BTW, there's a great cheap local pizzeria near the Assisi Duomo. Pizzeria Il Duomo, Via Porta Perlici 11. It's a long walk -- opposite end of town from San Francesco, near the Matteotti parking lot (where I think the local bus from the train station drops people off) -- but if you happen to be up that way, it's good.

Otherwise, the Cafe Minerva right on the main piazza, Piazza del Commune, in Assisi is an honest place and has Internet. So does Hotel Fortuna, although they charge if you use it before 8 p.m.