Ortisei and Castelrotto trip report
 

Ortisei or Castelrotto?

Castelrotto hands down!

Our trip: First week of October
Destination: Hotel Rodes in Ortisei in the Dolomites

Itinerary:
Day 1: Drive from Zürich to Ortisei through Mustair Valley in Switzerland.
Day 2: Seiser Alm with a walk through Ortisei
Day 3: Scenic Drive through Dolomites and evening walk through Castelrotto
Day 4: Drive back to Zürich through Reschenpass and Sent, Ardez and back over the Fluelen pass.

Highlights:

Seiser Alm

We took the cable car from Ortisei up to Seiser Alm. We did a circle walk down to Incor and back to the Sonne Hotel. It was a perfect day with a perfect view of the mountains. Paradise on earth.

Drive through the Dolomites

Ortisei-Selva di Val Gardena-SELLA PASS-Pordoi Pass-Arabba-Campolongo Pass-CORVARA-Colfosco-GARDENA PASS-Ortisei

It was a cloudy day so we didn’t get the best views at Pordoi Pass but we loved Gardena Pass. Stunning. We did the drive within 4 hours and a few stops.

Castelrotto:

A smaller village located in a beautiful setting. We wandered around the village and then stopped at the huge tent they were setting up for the Kastelruth Spatzen festival next weekend. The tent will hold over 9,600 people. We loved the drive from Castelrotto up to Panider Sattel. We also enjoyed the drive from Castelrotto down to Bolzen going past Seis.

Things I’d change:

Sorry Steve but I didn’t like Ortisei. Too much smog from the cars, too far in the valley for a nice view and too loud from all the traffic. Castelrotto was the exact opposite. Green pastures, quaint town and beautiful views. I’d definitely stay in Castelrotto next time.

Hotel Rodes was OK. The food was OK, the furniture from the 70’s (showing lots of wear and tear) and the owners weren’t all too friendly. I didn’t really like the location either. The price was reasonable and the kids liked the swimming pool. I couldn’t heartily recommend it.

Thanks again to Steve and all who contributed information for the Dolomites. We loved Seiser Alm (taking the cable car from Ortisei really is the best way to get up there) and the Dolomite drive. My American relatives compared it to Bryce Canyon, parts of the Rockies and Switzerland.

Hi schuler,
Thanks for the report. We also loved the Seiser Alm and the cable car from Ortisei. The Gardena Pass is a favorite here also. Just wondering if you got to stop in Glurns/Glorenza and Castle Churburg in Val Venosta/Vinschgau between Mustair Valley and Meran/Merano.
Churburg was one of the highlights for me on a previous trip.
Too bad you didn't care for Ortisei, but at least you got to enjoy the Dolomites.

Paul

Hi Pja,

We drove by Churburg, which looked very well cared for, but didn't stop. We loved noticing a castle on one side of the valley and finding it's parallel castle on the other side. It really brings history to life.

We were in Glurns in August and enjoyed walking around the town. The old houses, the run-down farms, the fancy restaurants and the continuous traffic all in a very small enclosed village made quite an impact on us.

It's apple season and we saw many tractors with green apple crates. The apples are very big this year.

We stopped on the Reschenpass and read the story behind the church tower in the water. Very moving.

Thanks for your post!

Excellent timing, since I'm planning 3-day trip to one of these two towns for next June. Were there any accomodations that caught your eye in either town? I was thinking of someplace in Ortesei itself so we could walk to the Seiser Alm, but I am certainly open.
Thanks, Pat

Hi Schuler--I'm so jealous! That is my favorite place in the world, after Switzerland of course.

We like to stay up on Seiser Alm itself, and in Corvara, which does not have the feel of a main road runing through the middle. And offers nice views of the nearby peaks.

If I were to go to Kastelruth, I'd check out the Rosslaufhof. Located above the town, it's set in a green pasture with fabulous views. It's quite a walk down to the town (but doable) so maybe it's a bit out of the way for you.

Hi Enzian,

Where do you stay in Seiser Alm?

We just adored Seiser Alm. My mother started yodeling while picnicing on our bread, cheese and cold cuts. We even saw enzian growing in the fields (and at this time of year!)

We just returned from a European trip that included two nights in Castelrotto. We stayed (for the second time) at the Zum Wolf Hotel in town. We had a room with balcony and view of alpine meadows and mountains in the background. They serve a very nice buffet breakfast and they have a laundry room, lift, bar, and free parking. www.hotelwolf.it

Hi Schuler - Thanks for your report.

Glad you enjoyed your trip - though I'm sorry you were disappointed with Ortisei. Now I feel really guýlty :(

I enjoy Ortisei and Castelrotto equally, but generally prefer staying in Ortisei for easy access to the wonderful Val Gardena lifts - and because it's more central for touring.

Wherever you stay in the Dolomites is a compromise to an extent - I guess it depends what you want.

I hope you go back for a longer stay next time - having whetted your appetite ;) If you ever go back and want to stay on the Alpe di Siusi, I think for views there's really only one place to stay - Saltria. The setting is as good as anywhere in the Dolomites IMO ...


Pat - If you do decide to stay in Ortisei there are lots of nice hotels.

Here's the catalogue:
http://www.valgardena.it/bilder/HF20...lrich_2008.pdf

It's nicest to stay in the centre, I think ...

I usually stay at the Villa Park (- excellent value)
www.hotelvillapark.com

If your budget is higher have a look at the Cavallino Bianco, Adler or Gardena-Grodnerhof

If you have a car, someone here highly recommended the Uhrerhof at Bulla (3-4 miles above Ortisei).
www.uhrerhof.com

In Castelrotto I also like the Zum Wolf:
www.hotelwolf.it

Steve

We absolutely loved the Hotel Uhrerhof that Steve listed above. It's about a 10-minute drive from Ortisei and is one of the very best lodgings we've stayed at in Europe. They serve a wonderful 4-course meal every night so there's no reason to go into town for dinner unless you want to. If you're looking for an incredible getaway retreat as a base for exploring the Dolomites, the Uhrerhof is hard to beat!

Hi Steve,

Don't feel guilty. It happens to me in Switzerland too.

Thanks for all your help but please don't get annoyed if I mention my preference of Castelrotto over Ortisei. Castelrotto (and Seiser Alm) is just too beautiful to just drive through.

'Castelrotto (and Seiser Alm) is just too beautiful to just drive through.'

I couldn't agree more, Schuler!

Hey - why would I get annoyed with you? Differences of opinion are what makes this forum so interesting and valuable. It's why I keep coming back :)

Steve

Steve,

I couldn't agree with you more.

My husband has just rented "Dance with the Vampire" with Roman Polanski. My kids are excited to see the Seiser Alm and to finally watch this "classic." I'm not sure if they know what they are getting themselves into.

Schuler, please do also watch at least "Der Berg ruft" and "Der verlorene Sohn".

It's a disturbing beauty. Trenker was no Nazi, infact he was so famous that he could get away with openly praising the freedom of America against the oppression at home in one of his movies.

Hi Schuler---on Seiser Alm, we have stayed at Hotel Seelaus, which as a great view directly toward Schlern.

But next time I would like to try Saltria, at the far end of the meadow; in particular the Zallinger farm, where they raise beautiful Haflingers:

http://www.zallinger.com/index.html

I've been thinking about Castelrotto for a week next June. A friend thinks it isn't in the actual mountains enough. What are your thoughts? I do want to do as much hiking as possible. Will I have to drive to get to it?

Thanks for your help

Laurie

Has anyone stayed at the Hotel Cavallino? Reviews?

Laurie Donnay

Hi LDonnay - Personally I think Val Gardena makes a better base. It has a wider choice of lifts - so easy access to a wide hiking area in the Alpe di Siusi, Odle and Sella area above Val Gardena.

Castelrotto is nice if you just want to hike in the Alpe di Siusi area. There is an occasional bus service up to the Alpe - and a cable car from Siusi (- up to Compatch).

Let me know if I can be of more help ...

Steve

Dear Hausfrau,

I am considering the Uhrerhof, but the dollar is so weak it makes the hotel very expensive. I hesitate paying $250 a night (I am a mere teacher from Utah), but it is my 50th birthday and I'm in the mood to treat myself. If the hotel is REALLY, REALLY great, it would be worth it.

What is your opinion?

Thanks very much,
Laurie Donnay

Hi Laurie,
To put things in perspective, we usually try to keep our lodging in the $150-200 range, but with the dollar so weak, that is pretty tough (we averaged $150 a night on our two-week trip to the UK last summer and regretted some of our less expensive choices). I would say that if you are willing and able to treat yourself, the Uhrerhof is one great place to do it! It has the most wonderful combination of luxury and Tirolean charm, fabulous service, and very good food (you should be aware that dinner is a fixed menu if you choose half-board). We didn't see any hotels in Ortisei proper that could match ithe Uhrerhof's location or overall appeal.

I would request room 101 or similar - we had an emergency exit floorplan in our room so we could tell that our room was one of the largest, and it is featured on their website, so I am guessing it is also one of the most luxurious.

For more of my take on the Uhrerhof, check out days 2&3 of the trip report I am currently working on:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=35110299

I would stay there again in a heartbeat. Hope that helps!