Opinion on sights in Florence
 

My family and I (3 adults and 3 children ages, 10,11 and 12) will be traveling to Florence at the end of June into the beginning of July of this year. We have limited time there but would like to make the most of it. We are descendants of Donatello so feel strongly about showing our children some of his work but don't want to spend too much time in museums. We are also planning to spend one day in Siena. This leaves us with one full and two half days in Florence.

Currently we are favoring:
Accademia
Dumo tower and or Campanile
Piazza Lee Michaelangelo

Possibly:
Donatello Square
Leonardo da Vinci Museum
Palazzo Davanzat
Various churches including San Marco
Palazzo Vecchio secret passage tour
Markets at Santa Croce

Input on sights to see and skip would be great.

The afternoon we arrive (a Monday) may be a good time to climb the tower or head to piazza michaleangelo.

If you want your children to see some of Donatello's magnificent work, I would think that you would want to consider visiting the Bargello and the Museo dell'Opera del Duomo.

A most definite +1 to kja's suggestions.

I don't know what interests your children, but at that age I would have enjoyed the Palazzo Davanzati and seeing how the merchant class lived.

With only 1.5 days in Florence, you'll have to be very selective about your sightseeing. See things in a geographically logical order and be prepared with maps or phone apps to help you find your way. Moving 6 people around will take longer than you anticipate, and, assuming not all 6 have cellphones, you should have a plan in the event you get separated.

Make entry reservations for any place that offers them.

If you can manage it get up early and attend mass.


The Florence Duomo Mass Schedule for those who would like to attend services:
weekdays: 7:30 - 9:00 - 10:30 (Gregorian Chants) 12:00 & 6:00 pm (with organ)
Sundays & holidays: 7:30 - 8:30 - 9:30 - 10:30, 11:30 & 6:00 pm

I also heartily agree with kja; for Dontatello, the Museum of the Duomo and the Bargello Museum are not to be missed. The Maria Magdalene in the Duomo Museum is one of my favorite sculptures of all time. It really looks like a modern sculpture rather than a Renaissance work, but it perfectly conveys the desperation of a suffering soul.

You might also want to visit the Basilica of Santa Maria Novella, very near the train station of the same name. It's a very beautiful basilica, with a very nice cloister as well. The beautiful frescoes in the Tornabuoni chapel illustrate the life of the Virgin Mary; the frescoes were done by the workshop of Ghirlandaio, where Michelangelo was a young apprentice at the time. Experts believe he painted one of the figures in the foreground.

The Church of Santa Croce has a wooden crucifix carved by Donatello. The Christ figure is very realistic and very human, unlike the idealized figures most artists presented. Another great artist of the time, Brunelleschi (who designed the dome of the Duomo) said that Donatello had put a peasant on the cross, and this crucifix is sometimes called the "Peasant crucifix".

After an intense day in Florence you all deserve the lovely views during a leisurely dinner in Fiesole - take bus nr. 7
http://tuscany-toscana.blogspot.com/...l#.WP5HcWUrSTw

Great tips kja and bvlenci.

Am going to print this out, as I am in Firenze this week-end and have, as usual, not opened a guide.

But of course I know all about Firenze since I spent 2 (3?) days there erm, 25 kgms ago... No kids, no wife we were finaced and I have a vivid recollection of a splendid park in a small palazzo.
I remember spending too much time in museums, a mistake I will not make again, I have here the 2 addresses of museums I'll see.
(anyway my wife will be there before me and will have looked into it - I am the happy (lazy) husband of a woman who can organize.

Anyone has a good rec for a nice dinner ?
Must be local food, price range 50-100 € pp. Can be lower too, I am also a taker for restaurants of the type 'La Madre' with 4 tables. Must be good and fresh.
So I can tell my friend just before the Grappa 'this is thanks to Fodors ! the forum I spend too much time on...'

WoinP - I can't help with the restaurant, but as you are travelling with your wife, don't miss the rose garden which it just west of the Piazzale Michelangelo in Oltrarno. wonderfully romantic and should revive memories, if nothing else, of your previous trip.

oh, and I have thought of a restaurant, if it's still there [and TA suggests that it is]:

https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restau...e_Tuscany.html

if you like a cucina run by la nonna then this place is for you - I know that it was 7 years or so ago, but i only had 2 nights in Florence on that occasion, and I ended up eating there both nights. this was my review of the first night:

>>Even now I am not sure what made me go in. Perhaps it was the thought of “cappallaci al fiori di zuca profumi al tartufo” or “tortelli maremma in salsi di burro, salvia, e arancia” or "tagliata con carciofi e panico" [sorry, that means panic, but that’s what I’ve written!]..but whatever it was, in I went. What a difference to the other place. I was politely shown to a table, offered the menu, then wine, bread and water, smiled at by the waitress from time to time in an encouraging way, and generally made to feel welcome. Most of the menu was completely mystifying - what, for example, was the dish that they had translated as “cut with its sauce and vegetables”? or “Pentolaccia”? [the insides of a sheep, I think!]

In the end I settled on a primo of tortellini of potato in a saffron sauce, and secondo of fillet of duck in an onion sauce, both of which I had seen going out to other diners who were obviously enjoying them hugely. Wow. The pasta was just terrific. Silky smooth with a sauce to match. I ate every bit and mopped up the sauce with my bread. [don’t you do that? oh, you don’t ? well, you don’t know what you’re missing!].

By the time I got to the duck I was possibly a little full of pasta, but it was still very delicious, and I almost finished it. Coffee was enough however, and full of the duck, I waddled back home. Trip advisor tells me that “il giova” is about no 450 out of 850 restaurants in Florence, in which case the 449 above it must be pretty good. but it would be hard for them to be friendlier. <<

the other place referred to was a snooty restaurant where I'd sat for over 10 minutes without sight or sound of a menu before I decided that there must be better places to spend my hard-earned €.

it's a 5 minute walk of Santa Croce and the Mercato di San Ambrogio, which has its own excellent and very cheap restaurant at lunchtimes, which I'm sure you'd enjoy.

Thanks !

I know the family legacy is important to the OP but my guess is the kids will enjoy climbing the Campanile or Duomo more.

As well as getting out to Piazzale Michaelangelo. Quite a climb but stunning views.

Climb a little more to San Miniato al Monte for even better views.

They also might enjoy the Boboli Gardens more than being inside a museum. Maybe show them Google images of the paintings and ask if they'd rather see the paintings in person or visit the "open-air" museums?

We thought the Leonardo da Vinci Museum was really interesting, and your kids will probably enjoy it.

Lee Ann

WoinParis, I was in Florence last March and here are 3 of my faves from that trip.

Buca Mario, Piazza degli Ottaviani, 16r
phone: 39 055 214179
This is very near to Piazza Santa Maria Novella. Family run, very good food. I ate there three times and was like family by the end. It was close to my hotel.

Il Santo Bevitore
via di Santo Spirito 64/66
39 055 211264
This is in Oltrarno but not far from the river if you are staying in the Centro storico. This place has more of a buzzy vibe than Buca Mario and the food was really good too.

Have only had lunch and coffee here, but JTCaffe right across from Pitti Palace has really good food. They have a lady who makes the pasta fresh every day. For lunch I had the tasting menu of three different pastas with a glass of wine with each one. Plus their big house salad. Everything was delicious, the pasta was melt in your mouth and it is fun to sit outside and watch the passing parade.
Piazza de'Pitti, 32
39 055 281143

If your wife is in the market for some lovely shoes, handbags, jackets, clothes etc, the owner of the JT Cafe, Jennifer Tattanelli, has a shop next door called Cassini. Not cheap but beautiful things, designed by Jennifer and made in Tuscany.

I think the two museums that kja mentioned would be great. You don't have to see the whole museum but just look for the Donatello's. Also the Baptistry is lovely and will not take much time to see if the line is not long.

Thanks rain city.
I hope you will not be offended if I don't pass along TVs for shoes etc I just stole 2000 from her bank account to replenish mine !

Besides having the crucifix carved by Donatello, the Basilica di Santa Croce is really spectacular inside. It is, IMHO, one of the don't miss sights in Florence.

Wo, I loved this restaurant:
http://cinghialebianco.com/en

Just a couple of notes about timing:

To avoid lines, schedule your climb to the Duomo for 1st thing in the a.m. Conversely, a late-day visit to Piazalle Michelangelo is best, when the sun is setting over the city.

For an inexpensive dinner at a great, little place, try Zio Gigi, near the Duomo.

Wo, no problem, I understand! ;)

I am another one who gives a big thumbs up to the Museum of the Duomo. I really liked the way it was curated, very fresh and unstuffy.

Well, off topic but we booked an apartment (me ! - via hotels.com and with invoice) and my wife finds it lovely.

Family Apartments Signoria
4,4/ 5
134 notes .
Via dei Cimatori, 16/red
Florence
50122
IT
+390550763801
Very close to Plazza della signoria. (hence the name, might I venture to say).

That looks very nice Wo. Good find.
You can walk to the Sant'Ambrogio market from there. (half a mile) Lots of lovely foodstuffs there and it's a bit more of a local market than the Mercato Centrale.

Don't forget to sample lots of gelato!

I am not a fan of gelato, so I took a slice of pizza instead. But ended up eating my daughter's gelato when she had enough.

I'mm make a TR when I'm back, but gosh how am I enjoying this trip !

Yes the apartment is great and is next door to a nice guy with a nice dog who owns a small supermarket. So this morning eggs for breakfast !

The Leonardo da vinci museum was one of my favorites on the trip.

The accademia only if you have a strong interest in seeing David or are specifically interested in Renaissance art. I'm not sorry I went. But otherwise it's relatively small and heavy on what I consider the "boring" religious art. I'm not sure what style I'm thinking of, but it's the kind I look at and think...yet another Madonna and child, let's move on. I love art museums but that wasn't one I'd return too- except for David and the musical instruments, because admittedly that was pretty interesting.

Anyway, boboli gardens and the attached museum would probably appeal to a family more. There's a lot of variety in terms of art, the views are cool, and the gardens are massive. The kids will definitely be exhausted after that.

WoinP - if you do find yourself in the area of San Ambrogio, and if you like gelato, there was a very nice little gelateria on the west side of the nearby square [just down from the Theatre I think] where you could still get 2 scoops for €2 or so. I mention that as while I was there, there was a big piece in the local paper about the cost of gelato, and in particular the fact that 2 german tourists had paid a massive €17 for one a few days before. ok it was a huge cone full of ice cream and many other things but still, it was only an ice cream.

Re the Boboli Gardens, I have to say that we were a little disappointed - we did not find them terribly exciting. The Gardino Barbini was much nicer.

Barbini and boboli are great. Too late if several weeks for the rhodos glycines and other azaleas but still great. Villa Harding has zero interest.

Bargello is splendid. Spent some time in front of David.

Duomo and cupola scheduled on Monday.

Fiesole still on the radar. Tomorrow ?


Thanks for advice I could look less stupid than usual and contribute to the planning ;-)

I agree--the Boboli Gardens do not excite me. I visited many years ago n September and found them dusty and gravely and hot, more hedges than flowers.

I decided to give the Boboli Gardens another chance two years ago in May since so many write how much they enjoy them and it was a different season. I found them dusty and gravely and hot, more hedges than flowers. Pretty much underwhelmed as before and as annhig said.

The same day I visited the Bardini Gardens, which was actually sold as a joint ticket with the Boboli. The Bardini Gardens were what I had always hoped the Boboli would be. A variety of plantings and areas, some more foresty, water features, and other planting beds. Less wide avenues of the Bobol, a more intimate feeling. Striking views over Florence. My only warning: the Bardini is built into a steep hillside, so be ready to climb.

If they are still on the same ticket, you can decide and report back.

ellenem - my experience exactly, and at the same time of year. And don't forget the rose garden to the west of Piazzale Michelangelo - open from beg May to the end of July I think and absolutely stunning with great views over the city [and a pretty cool cafe nearby too]:

http://www.firenze.net/turismo/cm_de...d_categorie=25

Yes, the Donatello David in the Bargello is fascinating, one of many Bargello pieces where one could spend a lot of time. Hopefully the OP has put the Bargello on their must-visit list.

Have you considered the a visit Convent of San Marco? It has numerous frescoes by Fra Angelico on teh walls of the monk's cells where he painted them.

Also a stunning collection of illustrated books on display in Cosimo de’ Medici's library.

http://www.museumsinflorence.com/mus...san_marco.html

Actually I was still in Bardini gardens when I posted about Boboli. Which are more like a park not gardens.

We visited 3-4 museums in Pitti Palazzo with rooms full of paintings. Palazzo was beautiful but I had an indigestion.

Something great is the Firenze card : 70 euros each allows one child per card and works great as a cut file. Great deal fir us.

We bought leather bags and jewelry at ponte vecchio.
Today uffizzi.

@ WoinParis: While at the Uffizi, please give a nod to the Botticellis for me. :-)

WoinP - would you recommend the Pitti Palace? - I've never been inside, though I've walked past it several times.

I second/third the suggestion of the Convent of San Marco; while you are in that area do have a look at the cafe on the corner of the square at the top of Via Cavour - the waitresses wear very snazzy uniforms! [or they did 10 years ago!] Very good place for a snack too.

I hope you have a good time at the Uffizi. Normally I think that the Firenze card is too expensive to be a good deal but with free entry for the children it probably works out ok. hope today is not spoilt by indigestion!

I liked Pitti. The rooms are beautiful and some paintings are great. Just too crammed for my liking.

However it is a side effect of the Firenze card. One you bought it nearly everything is 'free'.

Idid acknowledge Botticelli. My favorite is the annunciation - a big painting with pastel Colors.
Then I like the Caravaggio a lot. And some other things.

Ellenem...

Same opinion of the Boboli Gardens...dusty and gravely and hot, more hedges than flowers.

Not sure why a lot of tour books like them.

We've taken the bus up to Piazzelle Michelangelo, and it's always a great view. (Maybe not if it is foggy.)

We also like taking a bus to Siena for a day-trip. Forget the name of the bus company (SITA?), but the station was pretty much right next to the train station.

ssander

Spent a month in Florence and LOVED it. Biggest issue: opening and closing times, opening and closing days. I like to joke that some are open the first Saturday after the full moon unless it falls on a Sunday. So check it out and you may have your answer as to what to do.

Other sights :

church/basilic of San Lorenzo : bof. There is a Donatello 'chaire' - that is where the priest climbs to admonish his parochy that was actually hidden with panels of polycarbonate and you had to go through a turnstile and pay 1 € to see it - on top of the 6€ you pay to enter the church.
So we refused... we can all be stubborn in the family.

Santa novel (close to the trainstation) was great.

Medici chapel : bof. But we had a good meal in front of it - Famrmetto or something like that.

Did I mention Santa Croce ? I already forgot - too many churches, I know it would blurr. Lots of rescoers I guess.

And there is an old pharmacy turned into a perfumery etc selling all kind of things that smell to hordes of chinese tourists and quite a few french ones too. Also a nice tearoom where it was good to rest.

Daughter and I voted against Fiesole as it was 6 pm and returned to apartment where you just spent 1 good hour doing nothing - feet liked it.
Tonight another restuarant - we passed one along the Arno - Michelin recommended but we'll skip it we prefer nice small restaurants. Usually close to where we are when we are hungry - and forget recs or even TA we enter the ones that look appealing.

Tomorrow Duomo (we got a reservation for the Cuppolo with our Firenze card), we'll see.. and the museums around.