One Week Solo on the Amalfi Coast
Jul 22nd, 2013, 12:35 PM
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One Week Solo on the Amalfi Coast
This is the trip report for the second part of my trip to Italy in May, 2013. The first half was with 8 women to Rome, Orvieto, and Florence. You can read the trip report for that part at http://bit.ly/133hwkU.
I said goodbye to my traveling companions and boarded the train from Florence to Naples. I was going on my first solo adventure—to the Amalfi Coast for a week. I was apprehensive. Everything I had read about the Amalfi Coast said that once you get there it is spectacular, but getting there is a challenge. Train to Naples, go downstairs in the Naples train station to pick up a regional train to Sorrento, and then catch the SITA bus through Positano to Praiano.
I selected Praiano as my base instead of Positano or Amalfi for several reasons. Primary reason, cost. Praiano has the same magnificent views as Positano at half the cost. In addition, I wanted to get away from the crowds and explore the popular areas on my own terms. I didn’t need a night life or numerous fine restaurants. I wanted a charming small hotel or B&B where the staff knew me and would come looking for me if I didn’t return in the evening.
My requirements:
1) Private terrace, balcony with great view of the sea
2) Breakfast
3) Free wifi
4) Friendly staff
5) Under 150 Euro per night
6) Easy access to public transportation
7) Nice, but not a requirement-- a restaurant that offers diner so that I don’t have to go out by myself every night
After much research, I decided on the Hotel Pellegrino, also called Pellegrino Pensione. Reviewers raved about this little B&B and the owners with such enthusiasm that I knew I couldn’t go wrong. (To read reviews on tripadvisor, click here. http://bit.ly/1600GZF). I sent a reservation request and received confirmation for a single room with a private terrace and a view for 90 Euros. WooHoo!
I said goodbye to my traveling companions and boarded the train from Florence to Naples. I was going on my first solo adventure—to the Amalfi Coast for a week. I was apprehensive. Everything I had read about the Amalfi Coast said that once you get there it is spectacular, but getting there is a challenge. Train to Naples, go downstairs in the Naples train station to pick up a regional train to Sorrento, and then catch the SITA bus through Positano to Praiano.
I selected Praiano as my base instead of Positano or Amalfi for several reasons. Primary reason, cost. Praiano has the same magnificent views as Positano at half the cost. In addition, I wanted to get away from the crowds and explore the popular areas on my own terms. I didn’t need a night life or numerous fine restaurants. I wanted a charming small hotel or B&B where the staff knew me and would come looking for me if I didn’t return in the evening.
My requirements:
1) Private terrace, balcony with great view of the sea
2) Breakfast
3) Free wifi
4) Friendly staff
5) Under 150 Euro per night
6) Easy access to public transportation
7) Nice, but not a requirement-- a restaurant that offers diner so that I don’t have to go out by myself every night
After much research, I decided on the Hotel Pellegrino, also called Pellegrino Pensione. Reviewers raved about this little B&B and the owners with such enthusiasm that I knew I couldn’t go wrong. (To read reviews on tripadvisor, click here. http://bit.ly/1600GZF). I sent a reservation request and received confirmation for a single room with a private terrace and a view for 90 Euros. WooHoo!
Jul 22nd, 2013, 02:54 PM
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Anne - so glad you started this! I rented an apartment in Positano for a week in June, so am looking forward to reading about your experience.
BTW, if you are ever on the Amalfi Coast for a week again, the 2 bedroom apartment I rented worked out to $82/night for each of my friend and I.
Hopefully your arrival in Naples was much less exciting than mine - I landed and found out my cellphone didn't work and my driver didn't show up! Finally walked out and got into a cab after waiting for 90 minutes!
But it is all worth it when you get there!!
BTW, if you are ever on the Amalfi Coast for a week again, the 2 bedroom apartment I rented worked out to $82/night for each of my friend and I.
Hopefully your arrival in Naples was much less exciting than mine - I landed and found out my cellphone didn't work and my driver didn't show up! Finally walked out and got into a cab after waiting for 90 minutes!
But it is all worth it when you get there!!
Jul 24th, 2013, 06:39 AM
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xyz, since you are going in May and I am not returning until June, I will paste the link below. 
Be warned, there are LOTS of steps, both up and down to the apartment, but the views are fantastic.
http://casapositano.wordpress.com/20...ositano-italy/
Be warned, there are LOTS of steps, both up and down to the apartment, but the views are fantastic.http://casapositano.wordpress.com/20...ositano-italy/
Jul 26th, 2013, 10:39 AM
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So off I went on the highly enjoyable fast train from Florence to Naples, then bought my ticket for the regional train from Naples to Sorrento. It was dirty, hot, unreliable, and there were kind of scary “thug” looking young men who ignored the no smoking signs. When I arrived in Sorrento, I bought my bus ticket to Praiano at the stand outside of the station.
The bus was supposed to leave at 2:30. At 3:00 the waiting, hot, ticket holders were told that the 2:30 bus had broken down, and we would catch the 3:30 bus. I walked down to a market to get some water and use the restroom. When I returned there were twice as many people waiting for the bus. Thank goodness I travel light with just a carry on and a backpack! There is NO WAY I could have gotten on that bus with a full size suitcase.
I squeezed in and felt lucky just to be able to stand in the aisle, straddling my carry on. I was in the middle of the bus. I could barely glimpse the sea as we drove the winding road along the Amalfi Coast. We made a few stops in Positano and even more people got on than got off! I was squished, exhausted, hot, and just wanted to get to my hotel. No wonder people pay hundreds of dollars to have private drivers take them to Positano!
Luigi at Hotel Pellegrino had told me to tell the SITA bus driver to stop at bus stop #4 when I get into Praiano. As soon as we passed the Praiano sign, I yelled, “numero quatro!” I knew that was correct in Spanish and I hoped it was the same in Italian. I yelled again, “numero quatro!” We zipped right by the #4 stop and continued along the coastal road, right past the Hotel Pellegrino.
Around the bend and into the little village of Praiano, we stopped at the main stop in the middle of town. I got out and dragged my luggage back up the coast road, exhausted and wondering why oh why I had decided to make this trip by myself.
Luigi greeted me at the door with a big welcoming smile. I did my best to be cordial, but I was still angry that the bus driver ignored my requests to stop. Plus I could barely breathe from the walk up the hill back to the hotel.
Luigi showed me to my room, a rather bare, clean room with a big bed and white walls. The bathroom was small but adequate. Then he pushed back the drapes and opened the doors to the terrace……O-M-G.
First, I was hit with the pungent smell of the blooming jasmine covering the railing. Then, I saw the whole coast, with the town of Praiano hanging over the sea on the side of the mountain. And as I looked in the other direction, I could see Positano way in the distance. The ferries were like little minnows swimming from one port to the next. It was heaven.
Luigi told me to rest, and when I am ready, to come upstairs to the dining room for some of his lemon cake.
After ten days of traveling with eight women, and seven hours of challenging travel alone to get to my destination, I was mush. I changed into my comfy yoga pants and tee shirt and went in search of Luigi’s famous lemon cake.
The bus was supposed to leave at 2:30. At 3:00 the waiting, hot, ticket holders were told that the 2:30 bus had broken down, and we would catch the 3:30 bus. I walked down to a market to get some water and use the restroom. When I returned there were twice as many people waiting for the bus. Thank goodness I travel light with just a carry on and a backpack! There is NO WAY I could have gotten on that bus with a full size suitcase.
I squeezed in and felt lucky just to be able to stand in the aisle, straddling my carry on. I was in the middle of the bus. I could barely glimpse the sea as we drove the winding road along the Amalfi Coast. We made a few stops in Positano and even more people got on than got off! I was squished, exhausted, hot, and just wanted to get to my hotel. No wonder people pay hundreds of dollars to have private drivers take them to Positano!
Luigi at Hotel Pellegrino had told me to tell the SITA bus driver to stop at bus stop #4 when I get into Praiano. As soon as we passed the Praiano sign, I yelled, “numero quatro!” I knew that was correct in Spanish and I hoped it was the same in Italian. I yelled again, “numero quatro!” We zipped right by the #4 stop and continued along the coastal road, right past the Hotel Pellegrino.
Around the bend and into the little village of Praiano, we stopped at the main stop in the middle of town. I got out and dragged my luggage back up the coast road, exhausted and wondering why oh why I had decided to make this trip by myself.
Luigi greeted me at the door with a big welcoming smile. I did my best to be cordial, but I was still angry that the bus driver ignored my requests to stop. Plus I could barely breathe from the walk up the hill back to the hotel.
Luigi showed me to my room, a rather bare, clean room with a big bed and white walls. The bathroom was small but adequate. Then he pushed back the drapes and opened the doors to the terrace……O-M-G.
First, I was hit with the pungent smell of the blooming jasmine covering the railing. Then, I saw the whole coast, with the town of Praiano hanging over the sea on the side of the mountain. And as I looked in the other direction, I could see Positano way in the distance. The ferries were like little minnows swimming from one port to the next. It was heaven.
Luigi told me to rest, and when I am ready, to come upstairs to the dining room for some of his lemon cake.
After ten days of traveling with eight women, and seven hours of challenging travel alone to get to my destination, I was mush. I changed into my comfy yoga pants and tee shirt and went in search of Luigi’s famous lemon cake.
Jul 26th, 2013, 03:02 PM
#18
>>>Thank goodness I travel light with just a carry on and a backpack! There is NO WAY I could have gotten on that bus with a full size suitcase.<<<
Your luggage goes under the bus, but you have to open the bin yourself. The Sita bus drivers never do it for you (other bus lines it's a toss up). Some drivers can be quite rude if you bring a piece of luggage on board and boot you off to put it in the bin. You also have to remind them when you get off that you are retrieving luggage so they don't take off with it. Not sure that would have worked as your driver didn't seem helpful at all.
Your luggage goes under the bus, but you have to open the bin yourself. The Sita bus drivers never do it for you (other bus lines it's a toss up). Some drivers can be quite rude if you bring a piece of luggage on board and boot you off to put it in the bin. You also have to remind them when you get off that you are retrieving luggage so they don't take off with it. Not sure that would have worked as your driver didn't seem helpful at all.
Jul 26th, 2013, 04:42 PM
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Anneeby, I am so glad you are posting this information. I need to get away on a relaxing and healing trip since my husband just passed away and I need something simple, because my mind is on overload. You made it look so easy. I so much want to do this probably at the end of September, because I can not stand the heat! Please post more about your stay and where you ate. Wish you a very relaxing and marvelous time!
Jul 27th, 2013, 10:48 AM
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Anja2: This post is for YOU! This trip was all about healing, relaxing, and getting comfortable with just me.
I'll contine......
Up two flights of stairs to the top floor of the little B&B, I walked into a beautiful dining room of what looked like an elegant restaurant. Tables were set with crisply starched white linens and candles. Outside a terrace ran along the entire length of the dining room overlooking the sea. Classical music played softly. The view was breathtaking.
Luigi motioned for me to sit at a table facing the sea. No one else was in the dining room, but it was early, around 5:00-6:00. I don’t drink, but the bar at the end of the room was inviting. What a lovely place to have a glass of wine at the end of a day of sightseeing! I know if my friends were still traveling with me they would be sharing stories at the bar while admiring the view.
I declined Luigi’s offer for a glass of wine and asked for hot tea instead. He returned to my table with a nice cup of hot water and tea, and a good sized piece of what looked like some kind of white cream pie. Luigi explained that this is his “lemon cake”, made from lemons of the region. (I soon discovered that “cake” also meant pie.) I asked if he made it and he told me he makes all of the desserts, fresh, every day for his guests. He said that when you come to his hotel, he wants you to have something special, something you can’t get anywhere else. He said, “How will my guests feel special, if they can get the same dessert in Rome?” Then he politely left me to enjoy my tea and “cake” alone.
I took a bite of the lemon pie/cake. I can’t even describe it. It was like fresh whipped cream with the slightest hint of lemon and some kind of crumble crust. It was the kind of dessert that makes you close your eyes, it’s that good. As I looked out at the sea and the town of Praiano, I savored every bite. I took my time. The challenges and stress of getting there faded away. I felt nurtured. I was so grateful that I had selected Hotel Pellegrino with the million dollar view and nice Luigi who made homemade cake every day for his guests.
After every morsel of cake was gone, I lingered for over an hour at the table, enjoying the view, the music, the tea, and Luigi’s occasional conversation. He asked me what I wanted to do during my stay. I actually couldn’t tell him. I had been so focused on organizing the first part of my trip with the eight women that I didn’t really do much research on what to see/do while on the Amalfi Coast. I knew I wanted to spend time in Positano and the town of Amalfi. I knew I wanted to see Capri. And I knew I wanted to rest, eat well, take long walks, and explore the area.
Luigi told me that when I want to go to Capri he can arrange a private boat who will take good care of me, or I can take the ferry from Positano. He also said that he sells tickets to the SITA bus that can take me anywhere from Sorrento to Amalfi, and it stops right in front of the Hotel Pellegrino. (Numero quatro!) He said if I want to go to dinner in Positano or anywhere in the town of Praiano, to just call the hotel when I want to come home and he or someone else will come to get me. Also, if the rain clears up and I want to go to the beach, he can take me there and provide towels.
I had seen a sign in the elevator when I first arrived that said dinner is offered in the dining room. I asked Luigi and he said they provide dinner every night, just for his guests, and I don’t need to reserve. Just walk upstairs when you are ready to eat, anytime after 7:00 (19:00). There is a 4-5 course menu offered each night for a set price, or I can order ala carte.
How perfect is this!
The fatigue was settling in from my long day and I yearned to go back to my room. I just wanted to stare at the sea on my terrace and then fall asleep reading my book. And that’s exactly what I did.
I'll contine......
Up two flights of stairs to the top floor of the little B&B, I walked into a beautiful dining room of what looked like an elegant restaurant. Tables were set with crisply starched white linens and candles. Outside a terrace ran along the entire length of the dining room overlooking the sea. Classical music played softly. The view was breathtaking.
Luigi motioned for me to sit at a table facing the sea. No one else was in the dining room, but it was early, around 5:00-6:00. I don’t drink, but the bar at the end of the room was inviting. What a lovely place to have a glass of wine at the end of a day of sightseeing! I know if my friends were still traveling with me they would be sharing stories at the bar while admiring the view.
I declined Luigi’s offer for a glass of wine and asked for hot tea instead. He returned to my table with a nice cup of hot water and tea, and a good sized piece of what looked like some kind of white cream pie. Luigi explained that this is his “lemon cake”, made from lemons of the region. (I soon discovered that “cake” also meant pie.) I asked if he made it and he told me he makes all of the desserts, fresh, every day for his guests. He said that when you come to his hotel, he wants you to have something special, something you can’t get anywhere else. He said, “How will my guests feel special, if they can get the same dessert in Rome?” Then he politely left me to enjoy my tea and “cake” alone.
I took a bite of the lemon pie/cake. I can’t even describe it. It was like fresh whipped cream with the slightest hint of lemon and some kind of crumble crust. It was the kind of dessert that makes you close your eyes, it’s that good. As I looked out at the sea and the town of Praiano, I savored every bite. I took my time. The challenges and stress of getting there faded away. I felt nurtured. I was so grateful that I had selected Hotel Pellegrino with the million dollar view and nice Luigi who made homemade cake every day for his guests.
After every morsel of cake was gone, I lingered for over an hour at the table, enjoying the view, the music, the tea, and Luigi’s occasional conversation. He asked me what I wanted to do during my stay. I actually couldn’t tell him. I had been so focused on organizing the first part of my trip with the eight women that I didn’t really do much research on what to see/do while on the Amalfi Coast. I knew I wanted to spend time in Positano and the town of Amalfi. I knew I wanted to see Capri. And I knew I wanted to rest, eat well, take long walks, and explore the area.
Luigi told me that when I want to go to Capri he can arrange a private boat who will take good care of me, or I can take the ferry from Positano. He also said that he sells tickets to the SITA bus that can take me anywhere from Sorrento to Amalfi, and it stops right in front of the Hotel Pellegrino. (Numero quatro!) He said if I want to go to dinner in Positano or anywhere in the town of Praiano, to just call the hotel when I want to come home and he or someone else will come to get me. Also, if the rain clears up and I want to go to the beach, he can take me there and provide towels.
I had seen a sign in the elevator when I first arrived that said dinner is offered in the dining room. I asked Luigi and he said they provide dinner every night, just for his guests, and I don’t need to reserve. Just walk upstairs when you are ready to eat, anytime after 7:00 (19:00). There is a 4-5 course menu offered each night for a set price, or I can order ala carte.
How perfect is this!
The fatigue was settling in from my long day and I yearned to go back to my room. I just wanted to stare at the sea on my terrace and then fall asleep reading my book. And that’s exactly what I did.
